Best filler for nosecone?

[Gorilla0178]

Well some of the bondo blew off the front of nose cone, not going to use bondo for the repair. What is the best filler to do the repair? I know there will be different opinions but I would like to get something that I can get at the auto part store.

[TNT]

id say all-metal then duraglass

[Flatlander]

PC-7 or PC-11, you can buy it at Ace Hardware. It is tough stuff. Never had it flake, break or chip off.

[HStream1]

IMO use the PC11 over the 7 if thats what you want to use. But the best stuff going is a product called Splash Zone. It was developed for the Navy to do under water repairs on Boats/Ships hulls. It even comes Kevlar Impreginated if you want.

I just hope the cone was tig welded on then filled in.

http://www.fox-ind.com/product.asp?id=157

[Gorilla0178]

Alot of people have said PC-7 and PC-11. I need alot of it, I had to grind off alot to get to good metal. I think bondo has a metal filler. I can get adtech which is real good, but I have to get it down south. Looking for something thats easy to get.

[HStream1]

Here you can buy direct from the manufacturer.

http://www.fox-ind.com/product.asp?id=157 (http://www.fox-ind.com/product.asp?id=157) <!-- edit note -->

[Gorilla0178]

Yes it was tack welded on, I cant beleive that there is 1/2 inch thick filler on this thing, I had to grind all the way around the seam on the bottom. What kind of filler do they use at Bobs when they put them on?

The only issue I see with the splash zone is it takes 24-36 hrs to cure. And I'm sure I need to put on more than 1 coat to build it up.

[HStream1]

Splash Zone isn't like that. You can apply all you need (up to 2" thick in the first application) Total cure time is as you mention 16, 24 to 36 hours depending on tempeture with a full cure being 72 hours.

This stuff is nothing but the best. I mix it in a 2 gallon bucket with soapy water and surgical gloves. keep the gloves wet and it smooths out/blends really well with minimal sanding to finish.

[RONNIE]

Weld it all the way around and fill with duraglas

[HStream1]

Weld it all the way around and fill with duraglas

:iagree: with welding it all the way around. But this splash Zone is way better that Duraglas. JMO

[Gorilla0178]

I'm not going to go through all that right now. 3M has a bondo that is aluminum filled, and can be drilled and tapped so it must be pretty solid. I'm going to check on that PC-11 stuff also. If I ever have to take the lower off to do a big repair or something I'll redo all of it. I have to do a pretty good size spot but not all of it.

[Fast Fred]

duraglas, bondo,that stuff just pulls in water, it's for fender not lowers.

[Six Four]

I use the pc11 with good results

[imq707s]

I use the pc11 with good results

I peeled all of the bondo off of my cone last year, had it welded fully, then filled with PC-11. I ran it all last summer, and so far this summer....and it's still holding strong. Not a single crack, bump, or bubble. It's good stuff. The bondo I had on my cone constantly cracked and peeled off.

[Gorilla0178]

I'm going to check at joes auto/marine for that PC-11 they have it.

[1fastg3]

PC-7 or PC-11 Buy far the Best .. I Hit everything With my lower ( I dont know Why)

[4174jm]

I've used aproduct called fibrebond or bondoglass with short strand hair many times.I use bondo to fill in the imprfections in the glass (skim coat).I could be wrong but I think the next step is very important I use a high quality automotive paint.The paint seals the surface alot of people dont realize that bondo is pourous as is primer.

[Gorilla0178]

Well I went with PC-11, put it on today, filed it down close. Tomorrow I'll skim it with Adtech, and fill some small spots, them prime and paint again.

[donmac]

I had a 2" area that became vacant! I just applied the stick epoxy that you need in your hand!this is an experiment and will post results after a couple runs

[Gorilla0178]

Well the PC-11 came out ok, I hope it gets harder over time. It was hard but you could still put a thumb nail print in it. It deffinatly wasnt as hard as the sample they had at the store. I filled the rest with adtech and sanded the whole thing down. Next week I'll prime and paint it again. Hope it stays on this time.

I thought about that putty stick too, just wasnt sure how much I needed.

[Gorilla0178]

Well PC-11, not the best stuff I've worked with. I should have gone with adtech for all of it. It's still not rock hard, you can put a thumb nail print in it. I know its 1 to 1 mix and I did it as close as possible without some sort of measuring device. Oh well I'm going to leave it for now, if it comes off agiain I guess I'll have to redo it.

[Gorilla0178]

Well in the process of painting it again. PC-11 still rubbery, oh well, we'll see how long it lasts. I have a feeling I'll be doing it over again in the future......

[Gorilla0178]

Didnt last that long, came in today with a small patch of paint missing. Went home to fix it, and ended up grinding it all off. It was all rubbery, and filler wouldnt stick to it. Going to try to get it redone tomorrow to be ready for the keys, we'll have to see how it goes.

[cyrillefrenchy]

question ? do you apply filler on bare clean aluminum or on already primed aluminum with zinc chromate ? i think it would make difference.
what is the best? bare or primed surface?

[cyrillefrenchy]

question ? do you apply filler on bare clean aluminum or on already primed aluminum with zinc chromate ? i think it would make difference.
what is the best? bare or primed surface?

[cyrillefrenchy]

question ? do you apply filler on bare clean aluminum or on already primed aluminum with zinc chromate ? i think it would make difference.
what is the best? bare or primed surface?

[imq707s]

Sounds like you got the mix wrong. When I did mine, I left it overnight to harden up...and by the morning it was hard as a rock and ready to sand. If it was still soft the next day......then something went wrong, and I'm guessing it was the mixing ratio.

[Gorilla0178]

I thought mix ratio but I made a couple batches and it was all the same. I've mixed alot of stuff and 1 to 1 is pretty easy. I was supprised too.


As far as what to bond to, bare clean sanded metal is usually what you want to bond to. As far as I know.

[Mr. Demeanor]

I just mixed up some PC11 and in the florida sun it was rock hard in a few hours.
Mix it by weight on a kitchen scale if you have on although I have always just eyeballed it.

[Gorilla0178]

Anybody use epoxy stick. I know that stuff is pretty good.

[Gorilla0178]

Adtech, I tried to use metal filled bondo, it didnt stick at all. So I went with adtech and it sticks good so far, we'll see in the keys tomorrow......

[TEXAS20225]

I really dont know how many cases i have coned not as many as i used to ive got older and a little wiser there more trouble then you get paid for. i have my own welding equipment Tig and wire gun for aluminum so i always weld them on but not solid along with the water inlet holes the last 9 cases i have used Evercoat Zgrip for aluminum i will never use any thing else . i have never let any case being filled in set up solid before i start shaping it with a hand body file . i also fill the void between the cone and the case solid with 3M Epoxy resin they dont peel chip blow off or nuttin . one key item is surface your applying the filler to i use very heavy grit sand paper to Completely roughen up the surface 36 grit is too fine get rougher! another thing is dont waste your time putting good stuff over a mystery filler if you know a commercial painter get them to blast it off its a much better finished product good luck the case on my Bullet has been on it 3 years unblemished

[whipper]

Is PC-11 the same as Marine Tech?

[kingsbiship]

Tack weld it, then use Duraglass! Solid weld will warp unless you know what you're doing! Duraglass is tough enough and will feather easily!
Had no problem with mine and has been 6 or 7 yrs!

[Gorilla0178]

The pc-11 is a epoxy product, so it marine-tex, so they are similar. I went with adtech filler, I'm sure there are a bunch of fillers that would work, but thats what I'll use from now in I think.