Reeds

[groundloop]

I've been fighting multiple problems with my '90 Johnson 200 for quite a while now (many thanks to everyone here who's helped out with sharing their experience). It still doesn't idle right, sometimes it's sort of tolerable and sometimes it just flat idles like total crap and takes a lot of throttle to just stay running. I feel that I've eliminated any ignition components as the source of this problem, no amount of adjusting carb idle screws has helped (2 of the original carb bodies were cracked, I installed rebuilt carbs from a '96), and I finally happened to see flame from a backfire in the #6 carb.

Since several people have suggested that it sounds like reeds I went ahead and pulled them a couple of nights ago. None of the reeds were actually damaged, but I could see light under all of them. What I'm pretty sure happened is that at one time they were getting wore out so someone (probably the crook I bought the engine from) flipped them to try and get off cheap. Here's photos of the same reeds flipped one way, then the other - on the second photo (this is the way they are currently installed) it's pretty obvious that there's still a gap where the reeds are bowed up and don't seat all the way. Is this bad enough to explain the idle problem?


Photo 1 - My best guess of how the reeds looked before previous owner flipped them over

http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab135/stylemismatch/checkmate_restoration/reeds_a.jpg




Photo 2 - How the reeds are currently mounted (notice the gaps in the middle where they're bowed up)

http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab135/stylemismatch/checkmate_restoration/reeds_b.jpg




One thing that's had me baffled is why #6 cylinder always had a fouled spark plug after idling for a while, whereas none of the others did that. I found a couple of very small "divots" in the reed block for #6, could this explain it?


http://i857.photobucket.com/albums/ab135/stylemismatch/checkmate_restoration/reedblock6.jpg


Finally, I plan on calling Chris Carson Marine on Monday to order reeds (based on all the great things everyone on ScreamAndFly has said about them). Which model reed should I be looking at - the engine is totally stock and I'm not looking for any more top end, just an engine that idles properly.

Also, as I understand it from reading other threads I'll have to remove the rubber coating from the reed blocks and sand/polish them smooth on a perfectly flat surface. If someone can confirm this then I can get started on that this weekend. Would it be reasonable to start with 200 grit sandpaper and work up to 800?

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

Chris here,we make a reed to work with the rubber removed,but that's not standard procedure,normally you need only to lap the rubber to remove the high flaws that would make the reeds stand open,not remove it.If the rubber is cracking or peeling it will have to go,call if you need advice,305-394-3354

[groundloop]

OK Chris, thanks. Would it work ok to remove the rubber and use the special reeds on just that one side that's damaged (those spots go deeper than the rubber) and use your standard reeds everywhere else?

Also, just so I can sleep at night and quit worrying about what else might be lurking in this engine, does that one reed block and the bowed up reeds on every cylinder look bad enough to cause the sick idle I'm experiencing?

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

I wouldn't mix the reed style,if some of the rubber if failing the rest is probably forthcoming,sand it off.T start with a belt sander,then 320 and 600 to finish.sleep well,the loopers don't idle very well when everything's right,in sure the reeds will help,Chris

[Lockjaw]

I have rubber coated blocks in my motor, and I put boyesens in it, and didn't do anything, other then make sure I had a good flush fitting reed. Mine idled very well.