Glassing a pad on a vee; foam?

[sho305]

I want to glass a pad on a vee, and I will have to vee the pad forward as the vee is sharper from the center forward--to blend the pad in. Looks like making it about flat at the back is best, 12-14 wide. I'm not seeing a way to not go close up to the bow to not get me a hook; that's maybe 12'. Boat is 16', 85hp for now.

I was thinking of making/glassing on thin 1.5" tall stingers on each side and center, and filling between with foam; then glassing/matting over to get the shape. Good idea? What foam would be good; spray or pink board like for houses(kinda dense?)?

I might make a wood temp one first to try. Is there a good kind of foam to use if you want to put floatation back in a hull? The high expansion spray stuff?

Want to experiment on this boat, 16' Bayliner, rather not admit that brand though...:) Pics in Bayliner transom post. The flat on bottom narrows as it goes forward.

[vector mike]

I don't want to discourage you but 10" to 12" is a pretty wide pad for a 16' boat. The ones on the Vipers and Vectors are 8" and they are 15' and a 17' boats. You have to be going atleast 60 mph to get up on the pad too. :)

[Racemore]

I padded a Rabco Streaker,a round bottom boat.I think I made the pad 42" long.measuring from the lift strakes I got my level.made the pad 11"s wide after looking at some different hulls and taking advise from a outboard drag racer friend of mine and how his Critchfield worked.His pad was 6' long but at speed it's only running on 3".I used lattice strips to form the edge and tapered the first10" from 0 to I think was 1 3/8.I had ground the surface rough and set the strips with Marinetex so the would be self supporting,then I filled the area with marinetex to form the pad.The last 6"s of the pad grew 3/8" to the transom,this lifted the boat and reduced the wetted surface.At the front of the pad I concaved the entery leaving the outside leading edges flush with the strips.My own theory was it would pack water and air lifting and airateing the pad.It worked great,I could drive through the chine walk and put it up on the pad easily and it turned pretty good and had no ill handeling problems and took 90% porposing out.90mph with a 79 2.5liter 235 omc.Just one way that works perfectly.I would not use foam,it would be a weak link when yo ass is on the line.:eek: Lonnie:cool:

[Reese]

Post some pictures of the bottom...preferably after you've flipped it over.

I agree with Racemore…don't use foam or any lightweight material for the pad section...yes, some bass boat/performance boats use it but those builders can afford to re-engineer any mistakes…we don’t have that luxury.

If you’re going to use stringer for a guide you could still fill it with fiberglass bondo (kitty hair), which would set up rock hard and is fairly easy to work with. The only negative I see with kitty hair is cost $35/gal and it weights 12 lbs/gal.

You can easily estimate the total cost and weight…a gallon has a volume of 231 cu in, your pad dimensions are approximately 12” x 1.5” x 60” totaling 1,080 cu in, requiring 4.7 gallons of finished material. It will cost about $175 and weigh about 56 lbs.

Of course you could always use a combination of plywood and kitty hair which would be less costly and somewhat lighter.

[Racemore]

resin or gelcoat,talc(baby powder)(not corn starch kind) and mix to a loose consistancy,cut fiber glass mat into 1" or so strips then tear apart into a pile.When your ready to fill mix the MEK with the resin then add the fiber to get the thick consistancy you want and spread into the form.Baby powder is cheaper and available.Don't freak out,talc is in the base for gelcoat.Impervious to water and like a rock.:cool:

I have to give credit to a friend that has restored Corvettes for 35 yrs.He used it to bond doors and fenders to inner panels.

Mix a batch and sandwich it between to pieces of fir plywood,let dry then try to seperate.Nothing left to say after that:D :cool:

[sho305]

I'll have pics wednesday....slow silver stuff. It is trapped in the back of a garage elsewhere as I might be moving soon.

Not liking the idea of 56lbs of bondo on the bottom. Bondo, filler, seacast or what ever all the same weight-wise. If I run the two sides and center stringer up the bottom, glassed on and 1 1/4" high and 12-14" wide pad I end up with; then I would have 6-7" on each side, so I might as well use 1/4 or 3/8 plywood on top of them as I could bend/twist that. Then no foam, just cover with mat and glass. I have 24(!)" between the stringers and no core, this has to be stronger than that??? I'll use 3/4 ply for the mini-stringers, or 1" by.

I think I will mount a 2x12 about 6' long on it and see what happens since there is no agreement here and that is middle of the road. I'll grind the last foot to a point, and mount it 8" forward of the transom for relief and that will give me about 11.5" real width by 1 5/8" high. I'll paint it with epoxy so it will last a weekend or two.

Now, wot with the 85hp and the 8" flat pad-like area on there, it still has some water coming off the strakes about 8" to the sides of the flat. Estimating that 2" higher pad, and 12" wide might float it better. Maybe I'm full of it and you can't get on a pad at 40-45mph? Let me know if that is the case.:eek: It planes easier than the Checkmate, and will plane at 10mph about. Might end up with the 1500 on there anyway, but I'll have to put knees in or something.

Not knowing the weight of this thing, but much lighter than the Checkmate when pulling with the golf cart! Is 15' 10". And thanks guys, for the input.

[David_L6]

Here's what I'd probably use.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/lastafoam.php



Good information at these sites.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catmain.php?dest=cathome.html

http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Core_Materials/core_materials.html

[Racemore]

Last-a-foam is the real deal.I would use 20# material, that is the choice for transom coring.The problem is you would have to buy a whole sheet and is expensive.I started using it in the early 90's but customers didn't understand the worth of it.A forever transom,not too hard to understand.:) :cool:

[Racemore]

when i made my pad the center was flush with the original bottom of the boat,smooth entery not a step up.The slight hook in the last 6"s helps you get less wetted surface along with trim angle.A 2 x 12 6' long is heavy buy itself.If you try to make a pad 1 1/2" above the exsiting bottom the transistion might be scary.Hate to see ya do all that work and it not work well.May I suggest that you look at several different boats with pads and find a medium between them.I concaved the entery on mine in 84 before STV made a picklefork pro comp bottom.Just want ya to be happy and SAFE.:cool:

[sho305]

Doh!! My boat has a ride-pad. Please excuse my lack of nautical terms. It is about 8" at the transom and continuously narrows to nothing at the bow. Otherwise standard fair vee with a couple strakes all the way back. Pics tomorrow. I could make it wider at the back w/out raising it, but what do I do at the front of the pad?

One thing that seems off, is I read if your drive is too far back you will propoise. When I trim all the way back(the fastest) I have to stop because of this. I can trim more before it blows out. So maybe I don't need that much relief, just enough so I don't need to trim so high?

[sho305]

Here is pics of bottom. Can see front of bow where it was beached and wore dark spots there on curve at rope. Pad comes to here 2-3" wide and ends into bow. From there it gets bigger, maybe 4-5" in middle of boat to about 8" at rear.

Saw one guy on here that just widened his by adding strakes/fill to the sides, until it was 1" high and maybe added 2" to each side. This could work, but how long do you need to go, and how would you relieve it?

[Reese]

If your serious about doing the bottom please flip the boat over to do the work...it will take about 1/3rd the time and you’ll eat a lot less glass!

Simplest thing to do is miter cut a couple of angled strips of plywood and attached them to the sided of the existing pad then add a ¾” sheet on top of that or just glass it in. You’ll need to taper the front of the pad to match the original bottom, but a belt sander should take care of that.

Not sure if my attachment will work…

[ShipBear]

Just remember one thing.. You don't want to do anything that's going to rip off. or 1/2 rip off under speed.. Even 1/2 fast speed.. What ever you end up doing, do it right..!! Lonnie knows hulls, and has some good points..
Keep us posted on what you doing..

Later Larry

[sho305]

I think I would have to flip it to do this. Lets say I go that way and add a strake/wedge to each side and lay a 3/4 ply on it all, to maybe 10" wide. What should I do forward? How long does it need to be, and what about the strakes? Should I just blend it all in after 6' long? Note the pad tapers smaller all the way. Thinking I should not taper a raised pad right?

Also, is the 3/4-1"(after glass) height just going to raise the boat higher? I see some pads are higher, and like this one some are low. Not 100% sure what this does, just guessing it frees up the vee next to the pad more. I thought about running the existing strakes all the way back, but I doubt this would do much, and might hold the bow down.

Also looked at other 16' size hulls, and see about 4" setback is normal. Maybe a hair more here due to bowrider weight? I could stop the 3/4 board 4-6"short of the transom for this?

[175checkmate]

Flipping will be the fun part. I still am not sure how I am going to do this on by boat. I can invision the windshield getting busted.
But I have a long time before I have to worry about that. Going to get the inside and transom done first.

[Rickracer]

When I did my 16'8" 'Tron C500, I took the center strakes all the way back like you are talking about, (they stopped about 2' short of the transom originally), and gained speed, better handling and a lower planing speed. Of course I took out the hook (apparently trailer induced), and sharpened all the strakes too. It went from planing at 22~23, to planing at 18 (perfect kneeboard speed for little ones), and would turn so hard it would scare ya. About 40mph, cut it hard and nail the throttle and it would 180* in about a boat length and a half, you best be hanging on, :eek: . It was definitely worth the trouble. I wish I had done a pad too, but everybody knowledgable I knew at the time said don't do it. I know better now though, :D

[sho305]

Here I made a simple diagram of the photo at the back. Should I relieve it? And if I do what about the new strakes?

Also wonder about extending(see above post) the original strakes beside the pad that stop short of the transom, did not put those in diagram. Are about 4" off pad to each side.

I wonder too about flipping. I am going to investigate using two, maybe three of those heavy truck pulling straps we use up here to get cars out of the ditch in snowy times. If I could hang them from the rafters, it would spread whole boat out in roof, and maybe work ok. Have lifted heavy stuff in one spot so...what the hay. Then you might just rotate it sliding in the strap like some boat lifts use? Otherwise you might be able to just lift the transom with the rings there and flip; while holding/padding the bow somehow. My buddy used to roll his 16' off the trailer right on to a bed of haybales. Not remembering what he did with glass.

[Rickracer]

What is the width of the center set of strakes edge to edge? If they are as narrow as they look, you may want to make them the edges of your pad. I like the idea of the relief at the back, and 6" would seem to be about right. On flipping it, if it's basically un-rigged, you can/could get some old tires and have a flipping party. For that size boat, 5 or 6 guys can do it, slide it off the trailer, line one side of the boat with old tires, and roll it over onto another set of tires. I made some really short carpet covered sawhorses to set the hull on for working on it. I wish I had taken some pic of the process, but that was BDC, (before digital camera). Here's what my 'Tron looked like after the bottom work.

[sho305]

I could do the same thing here as you did. How did that change it in handling? The only thing here, is I am playing with a 85hp motor, so I will not have the way up on the pad dynamics. It is running about 40mph with this motor. It planes now at 10-15mph, very slow. Never pulled with it.

Now it runs best trimmed as high as I can then it propoises. In fact, I can trim it above that, just about to where it goes to the lift cylinder, and holeshot. The bow goes way up, then down and it cavitates, I just bump the trim down to the best speed spot(goes fast down at wot) and it grabs and I'm gone on plane in maybe 2 boat lengths. Much faster this way. I found that out trying to abuse my new transom. It does not rev free, just grabs some rpms. Normally do not bother doing that. Not sure about how the LU likes that.

My friend sort of did that with his BBC I/O, he hit the up trim with the gas and it would break free just as it/before it came on plane, then grab again and set you back good in a 24' vee.

This sounds like a plan, I only worry about the bow being heavy with my limited hp. I thought if I relieved the pad, I could run with less trim and faster/more efficient angle of the drive.

Maybe the porpoise is from the hull coming off the short strakes and loosing that lift?

Better diagram:

[sho305]

I'm guessing they stopped the strakes to get the bow up more. If I run them back for more lift....what if I also just add 1" to the existing pad, maybe a hair wider, and relive it 4-6" for bow lift(about all I could or the back will hit the water@1")? So I would have more lift from the strakes, and the 1" height--with a little relief to put the bow lift back in?

Or would the strakes all the way back and the pad being short of them be a problem?

[Rickracer]

Where the boat used to slide a bit on hard turns, it would bite and hook on into the turn instead of sliding. In very high speed hard turns when centrifugal force would overcome it's grip on the water, it would hop a bit instead of sliding. That would tell me I was pushing the limit. The fact that your hull runs best trimmed nearly all the way out tells me that extending the center strakes should make a difference. You will will be unwetting more of the hull without using trim to do it, thereby saving that thrust to go forward with instead of lifting with it. You will be using the dynamics of the hull to lift with. I think you may be right about the cause of the porpoise too. You are probably bouncing on and off the center strakes, lifting, dropping, lifting , dropping. :cool:

[sho305]

That makes great sense, I am not getting enough lift and using the motor trim/attitude for it, and forcing the little pad/no strakes to lift more. If you did not have to trim more after your mod, maybe I should just go ahead and do the strakes. Worry about the pad later if needed. I could even shorten the strakes 1-2" later.

Now it handles nice, very smooth turning; maybe slides just a little. Takes waves nice, kind of mellow. Very easy, just what they wanted no doubt. Now my Checkmate with a vee and inverted chines will generate some g's on corners and bites well. It takes a set and turns. The Bayliner just leans over real smooth, and slides a little more if you turn hard.

I also thought about putting a 1/2" ridge on each side of the pad to keep the water in there, but as it is tapered the whole length that makes mods difficult. Not sure it would help anyway.

So how should I do them? Cut plywood to the angle and start glassing? I could screw/bolt them on easy enough and glass/mat them over as the inside is open there, just skin and I think a cross brace(?, the only one in back 1/2 of boat) about where they end now.

Did you sharpen just the transom end of the strakes? Or sharpen on the bottom also?

[Rickracer]

It was roughly 1x2, and I ripped it diagonally so it made two triangle shaped pieces that looked like the shape of the strakes but smaller. I laid a couple of strips of resin soaked mat inline with where the strake extensions were going to go and laid the wood on top while it was wet, so it was "bedded" in the mat. After that cured, I laid mat and cloth on top to seal it and bring the size and shape up to the level of the current strake. Then I laid a coat of cloth along the whole length of the strake to build it up a bit. After that cured, I took an air file and worked all the edges till they were sharp, and all surfaces straight. In between, I was filling the hook in the pad with mat and resin. It was approximately 3/8" deep at the lowest spot, and about 4' long. That part took forever. If I was doing that part again, I'd use kitty hair or something like it to fill the hook with. Layer after layer of mat and resin, took forever, and it was really a job sanding it smooth and level again. On the strakes, I sharpened every 90* edge under the boat. That part was definitely worth the trouble.

[sho305]

If that works, I'd be more than happy to not have to screw holes there. I gotta print this out, thanks!

Come to think of it, I had some epoxy drip off the transom of that Bayliner. When I was finishing up, I hit one with the chisel to knock it off there, and it ripped a hunk of the gelcoat right off! No sanding under there either. I had to fix it, about the size of a finger nail, then sand the rest of the drips off....doh! That is mighty good glue: West Sytems epoxy.

I think I might be able to flip it outside. My friend says to slide it off the trailer onto hay bales(he can provide), then roll it on them with a strap and a truck:) and if you get them right you can leave a gap for the windshield, or take it off. Can't work outside here for months though. I have to look at the motor and see if the tilt pin comes out so I could leave the clamp on the hull. Its glued on now w/3m 5200. See new done pic under Bayliner transom post.

[175checkmate]

I believe you have come up with a plan.

Great job SHO/Rick. I think all the angles are covered.

[sho305]

Yeah, couldn't believe when he put that pic up there and the ride pad on his was the same! I was at his site drooling over the go-fast goodies there too....Rickracer, you know how to gain business too huh? Thanks again.

Hope this house thing is wrapped up soon. Have a 80,000btu house oil funace roasting in the back garage now:D If I could get the boat on a trailer flipped, I could back it in there and do it up while the snow fell.:eek: I bet I could flip it on snow too!

Checkmate175--Not able to do this mod on the Checkmate though....could make the first strakes bigger? Do you have a pic of the bottom, from the prop angle? I don't have one of mine under the back. I'd like to figure that out too. Have to check your post to see what you are doing there. I'm thinking you might not gain 100%, but maybe leaving some of that vee in the center will keep some rough water ability? I did see a 'Stream that has a narrow pad all the way down. Check this site, lots of neat stuff of redo on whole hull, pics inside and out. http://www.byuboyz.com/boats/projects.htm

[ShipBear]

The bow goes way up, then down and it cavitates, I just bump the trim down to the best speed spot(goes fast down at wot) and it grabs and I'm gone on plane in maybe 2 boat lengths.

Set your Trim at where you bump it down to, where it grabs,
and try comeing out of the hole there..
Sounds to me you want to more or less add a transverse Step to your Pad.. I've thought about doing the same to my Viper..
But was told it wouldn't do much good on such a small hull..
15 foot..
By some guys that know.. Mark Casper, etc..

Later Larry

[Reese]

I think either of your drawings is pretty close to ideal and I only have a couple of thoughts.

1. If you already have a 8" pad going to a 10" pad may not make that much difference. Your boat has a very low power to weight ratio and will need a pretty wide planning surface to be effective, I vote for at least 12" wide x 5'-6' long.

2. The 6" relief is a good idea but you'll need to make it 1 1/2-2" high...if it's too short you'll loose most of the effect and it will act like one single straight pad.

3. It will be a lot less work to simply extend the pad (10" or 12" wide) all the way to the back of the transom and just play with setbacks for final adjustments.

4. After all these posts you better that house in order and start on the pad ASAP, figure we can all start a small betting pool with a winner take all for predicting the new top speed. :D

[Racemore]

Don't let you pad over load your a.. i mean power,same thing.If you are not going to step up in HP your adding more drag.At your motor weight a 140 powerhead will put you up on the pad you have.If you go with a heavier motor the extra pad would be better.The ventilation would help but you don't want to airate it to close to the gear case if you plan on a lowwater pickup.Even with a standard case you could run hotter.:cool:

Pads are needed when ya go so fast the boat falls over.You know,something to Scream and Fly on.:D :cool:

[sho305]

Thanks for the additional info!

I think I will try just extending the strakes for now for the following reason: the ride pad/pad on there tapers all the way to the front. So if I add to it, I will have to figure out how to blend it back into the hull while it is getting narrower 6' up from the transom. There it is maybe 5" wide, so what do I do with a 12" wide pad there? Rickracer sayes he is getting good results form the strake mod, and if I keep this motor on there is doubt about the pad mod being that effective. As far as relief, I figured if I was in the pad I might as well put it in there to get the bow up.

I have considered putting my 1500 inline on it, but with a 3/4" transom I would need to put knees in there for it. I would rather find a Viper/maybe Vector for the 1500 to run on as that is a real speedy-boat. I like the idea of the Viper as it is ideal for the 1500, the Vector I could put a 200hp on later. I will be short on play money this year, so these are my spring options. Experimenting with the Bayliner will give me something to do until spring.

If I found a great deal on a 200hp that might change, but doubtful. If I had the time I might redo the Checkmate for the 200, bail on the Bayliner and get a viper for the 1500. Then I would have a play boat, and a family boat sort of. I am starting to think the 1500 on a vector would be a good starter, as I have not had a faster small boat, just run bigger I/Os.

Shipbear--I tried that and it was not bad, but when it grabs some rpm from the cavitation it gets into the powerband and really goes. Likely do it your way though, as I don't know about the Force LU. I think that SS prop is all speed prop and that is why it is kinda slow out of the hole on a trim-down take off. Maybe that is why I hit 42mph on the speedo with a new pitot, it was going good for that rig 42 or not. Painting the pad w/teflon paint, raising the motor 1/2", filing/painting the skeg/LU, and sharpening the prop could have helped too.:D

[Racemore]

Just remember that you want as little surface touching the water as you can get.That is faster,on any boat.The drivability may come with a sacrafice of speed.I have a 32' Chaparral Villan hull,it has a 10'4" beam it has a 12" pad:rolleyes: Besides Rickracer had to get a tunnel boat cause he can't drive:D A set back bracket will give you leverage to lift the bow which will reduce drag and gain speed.This will put the boat on the pad.A 140 will give you a reason to widen it.Just an opinion.:cool:

[Rickracer]

I got dis training wheel hull cuz I was able to trade the aforementioned Glastron boat, motor and trailer fer it. Kind of a no brainer huh? I do love the way this thing eats 2 foot chop like it's a ripple though. Great family boat. My favorite boat will be the Vector when (if?) I ever get the time and money to finish the blasted thing, but when I'm done with it, it won't be hard to drive either. :D

[sho305]

I think the pads are great for lower power, maybe 200 or less. Or more if you have perfect smooth water to run all the time and they are fun to run. I have lakes, so I'll not be able to hang it out very often. If I had a 80+ Vector I'd hardly ever be able to wind it out without a beating. I get the prop out of the water here at 55 with my vee Checkmate. I suppose some like it hairier than others too.

If money were no object...I'd have one like stvhelm's ride in my choice of colors! You can use 200+hp with a multi hull more often under my conditions, or on a vee that is slower. I can't afford one now. Bummer. Then again, 80 in a Vector probably feels just as good as 100 in a tunnel:D And I can afford that. How about my 1500 on a Viper?

[Rickracer]

Just ask CrazyHorse :D

[Racemore]

Your right,and if I did I'd leave the refrigerator at the house and gain 10 mph.Dat white bote needs a little color.:D :cool:BLACK

[sho305]

I looked up some of crazy horse's posts and I find one about his brakes. Cool deal with air cylinders in the back to keep it from blowing over....so just how cool would my 1500 be on a Viper?? Fun is fun but I'm not up for a wet ride:( Was up wid dat??

And I don't have a refrig in any of my boats, then everyone would be eating in there and get food all over the floor. I'd have to clean it up.:D

[crazy horse]

Sho, The Viper was built with the big inlines in mind. A non comp Viper is pretty safe. Even my comp model is ok up to about 75 mph. after that it gets VERY light and senstive to trim. So when I try to get that last 5 or 6 miles per hour out of it by trimin up I can bring it down real fast if I have to. It turns better with the brakes also. If you pickup a Viper let me know ,I've been playing with mine sence 1974.

[sho305]

Saw another post and it said 66mph with a plain 1500. I'm not that nuts, so I will not be triming to the sky at wot or anything. Just want some wheel time in something reasonable. I see lots of Vipers with v-6s at Hydrostream registry, they must keep the trim down some. I guess you would know a little about it by now....

I used Bimba air cylinders on equipment at a place I worked at. You can do neat things with them, and maybe SS ones are more, but they are fairly cheap. If I get one I might put those in. I'll see if I can land one by spring; now is terrible timing. My bud owed me money, now he gives me a truck instead....so I have to dump that thing....was not going to refuse it of course!

[crazy horse]

Sho, A stock 1500 long shaft should push a stock Viper to the mid sixtys without any problem. With a little work, a strait hull and the right prop you might bump 70 with it. I'm not to sure if anyone on this board is running a V6 on a comp Viper, If they are they are flying it pretty flat and they would want to install a windsheald for a little more down force. The brake system is pretty simple, Most of the parts are over the counter. The cylinders are 1 1/2" bore X 2" stroke SS, Spring return. If you or anyone else on this board wants to screw with a brake system I would be glad to help.

[sho305]

The high side of 60 on a hot day?:D :D :D If I can't get a V-6 next season, then this will do just fine. A Steam would freak people out on our lake...and would look even better with my golf cart dumping it in the ramp:cool: I gotta get busy around here! This waiting....it's torture.

See only one v-6 w/out a windshield on 'Stream site. I would have one, and full interior, stereo too. Maybe take out stuff when I get antsy. I would try a sleeker, raked back windshield on before getting rid of it. IMHO.

The brakes can't be that hard to glass in, gotta get one first.

[Racemore]

My buddys got a Vector with a 220 Lazer efi.Nice rig,easy 80,$4500.00:cool:

[sho305]

I wish! But after I buy the house, I bet there will be only crumbs left in my bank account:(

[crazy horse]

Sho, My Viper came from Hydrostream without a windsheild. I wouldn't really have it any other way. The brake system only has a couple of parts that need to be machined. Most of the parts are over the counter. If you ever want to set up a hull with brakes I still have the info that is needed to build and set one up. I can machine the drag pucks and mounts and give you a list of the parts and hardware.

[sho305]

I like to be greedy with our short season here, so I get out on the lake when it's under 60 out. In my Checkmate if I lean over to the bow walk-through at 55mph, I freeze really fast! I can scream around out there without any company in the off season and try tuning things. So it would be hard to not have one on there. I am figuring for a removable one on my golf cart for the same reason. Just me trying to get the first and last bit out of summer.

I'll be after you about the brakes when I get to it. That would be great info, surprised more do not have them. I like cool stuff like that though. Somebody on here also had air cleats with a cylinder to push them up by hand.

Still going to try and do the Bayliner strakes in the spring, or whenever I can get to work on it. I'll keep it around for a fisher until I have something else.

[sho305]

Ok, got under it with the ruler yesterday. Hope to get it out in a week or two. I should be getting a 5.5" manual jack for it. I will have to run it with that quick just to see what it does.

My problem, is the existing flat pad that does get narrower as you go from the transom. It is 7"wide @ the transom and 6"@ 30" from the transom. At about 2" wide near the bow it goes away. The first set of strakes that end 18" from the transom seem to stay straight and not follow the pad; and they are 12" wide at the closest point to each other where they end- and 17" outside to outside.

At the transom it is 10 1/4" from the edge of the 7" pad to the first full strake, and has 15 degree rise there...though it looks to have more rise farther out beyond the first full strake. Strakes are slight negative. Same measure is 21 to second full strake, 33 1/4 to the 3" chine. 3" to first short strake.

Pad--So if I go roughly 11-12" wide flat and follow the inner edge of the first strakes... for 6'? then blend it in. It I'm 40mph now, 12" should float it now and work ok for a bigger motor too. This 85hp motor is 275lb, they say the inline is 325 if I go there.

Second question--Being a BR, I am sure I need relief and feel I should try a temp pad to find it. The 5.5" setback will help, and I am guessing 8" relief on this 15' 10" hull? How high does my pad need to be to have the water clear the original pad, will 1.5" high do it for 8" relief? (8" looks like nothing on there though) 10"??

The only other thing, is I was thinking this will have no air lift anyway...so would it hurt to make the rear of the pad 1.5"(approx) high and have it slope to nothing instead of a constant hight? So it would blend much easier at the bow. This would lower the bow on plane slightly though(less attack angle). Or is that a bad idea? The bow is high now but this pad is sinking@wot so hard to tell(& the tons of trim help to push it down).

I may add about 4 degrees rise to the finished pad, or not if I like it. Oh, and after my raising the motor 3/4" on this 20" transom it looks like the prop shaft is 7 1/2" (!) below the pad....8" from prop to cav plate. No wonder I can run huge trim. Jeez....:eek:

[sho305]

Does anyone know if a <6 degree deadrise in a pad helps avoid chine walk? Or is it just a cleaner water thing.:confused:

[Racemore]

Why do ya want to know,ya never gona do it anyway.:D I haven't been on this forum for a lonnnng time and we are still padding.hehe I would think that a flat surface makes for a flat ride.Never seen a flat bottom chine walk unless the boat is up on the prop.Will you get that thing going.Gona try and make the Rumble this year,expect to see ya there,with ya boat.;) :cool:

[sho305]

Thanks for all the info you have given Racemore. Just wondering if it would drive a hair better that way. Have half of this truck painted now, closing in on completion!

[Racemore]

Ya just never know till ya try somethings,what works works.The only way to improve is to take that and try to make it better.Keeping the pad about 10" wide or less on a small boat and keeping the wetted surface to a minimum is the baseline I think.Variations in deadrise, length and Height are things to try and find some improvement.After you pad it though and it works decent it's hard to want to change it unless you race.Then your allways looking for more.:cool:

[Racemore]

Since the subject keep coming up TTT.:D

[sho305]

Well, I have one boat here...the Checkmate. And that stupid truck is for sale, lots of lookers but no sale yet. Also selling a Cherokee I ended up with. Kind of a semi beater unlike the truck. Pulled the trans out of another car yesterday....might get another truck but no more big projects! I used up all my automotive swear words for a while. Still have to sell some stuff to refill the play-time(boat) fund so I can get on them boats!.

Not wanting to pull this bayliner now as it is the only one I can run:( Thinking about how I can try a bolt on test-pad to see what it does, and if I could get it to work with the motor. Not sure this one is worth re-rigging it all but I still want to pad it. What if I make a crude one up and bolt it on, take a run on some smooth water? Use treated wood maybe? I have no clue what relief would work with the motor on the transom, thinking 14-18" on this slow thing. Think about 10-11" wide, 3" high and taper to 2" at the bow. Maybe 6-8' total length and 5' of wide pad. That might get the transom clear at wot on smooth water at the sub 50mph I will likely be at. Still fun though, unlike that transmission. Think twice before you pull a tranny from a AWD car.

[Racemore]

You would say Trany's:( .My overdrive started slipping in my Z-71.Right when I start trying to save for another motor to get my boat in the water.I've always built my own but I don't know if I'm up for this.Just running in drive to see if I can get though the summer which is a Hot topic since my compressor seals blew out on my AC.Whats Next,I should'nt have asked that.:eek: I'm sure some foo foo dust will land on something else I own:rolleyes: I'm looking around!

You need to lift your boat off the trailer and wax the v with mold release and lay a couple of layers of mat and woven down the pad area then pop it off.Lay it on the bench and build the pad you want and then bolt it on.Before you pop it off drill through what you lay up every couple of feet just enough to mark the bottom.After it is on the bench drill back through completely and put stainless bolts through the holes and lay up over them and build the pad.Then you have the bottom marked where to drill so you can bolt it on,Wa La.They build keels for trawlers like that,bolt them on then glass the bolts and nuts over on the inside.:cool:

[sho305]

Tranny:mad: My Ford diesel has had a slippy lockup converter for some time. Hardly been driving it, so not fixed it yet. Looking at a a beater chevy(???) 4x4 my bud says he can get me for $600. It will be cheaper to buy, minimal insure, and drive that than my good truck. Waiting to see if his bid holds up on it. Cars are such a loosing game... I keep having to buy them and fix, resell to make enough money on them to pay for the ones I have. Oops, the 7 I have:eek: I think I'll down-size my fleet. Too much work to mow around all of them that don't fit inside.:rolleyes: My taurus was a $1000 to fix the trans last year.

However, I got my new BIOS chip in there today and my 'peputer seems to be humming along nicely now....$25 later.:)

That is a nice idea molding the bottom like that. What kind of special release agent do I need for that? The only problem is what relief I need, but I just bought some 1-by and 2-by treated lumber to make a temp pad:D $15 I think it was. I have to fab up my new dock of sorts first...so we will see how it works. Trying to make a dock out of a pontoon...;) My latest bright idea. I must be real entertaining to the people at the lake there. I hit a steady 47 on the speedo a couple of times, if the trim is just right. I been playing with the prop and it seems to require less trim now. The prop calc says my speedo is 2mph fast with 10% slip. Suprising for a 85hp force. Now if I could just figure out that whistling sound it makes sometimes...:confused:

I think my prop shaft is 7" below the pad. If I go 3" high with the new pad, but need less trim it should be ok right? I guess I'll find out.:D It does have the intakes on the sides of the barrel, so they are pretty low at least. Don't worry, you can make all the fun you want about my bayliner/force until I get a better ride going:D :D