Pics of Reinforced transom

[fredsav]

Would like to see pics of transoms being reinforced with aluminium plates and or SS rods. Have and 86 Vector and would like to beef it up before I reinstall merc 200. Thanks.

[Techno]

Rods will probably buckle, flex. I had bar stock in my last boat and thats all it was good for.
Mght be OK for tension though.

I think that the knees will go further than an aluminum plate for strengthening the transom. It makes it smaller in affect.

GO as big as you can fit. Here's an extreme example. Notice they used the deck also.

[FCnLa]

SS rods with RH and LH threaded spherical rod ends to set preload. Not much flex, although I have though about having another going inbetween the two attach points in the boat.:)

[Delta]

I used the SS rods like FCnLA,and although I'm satisfied with them,Techno is absolutely right in his assessment.
They do flex a little...not as rigid as tubing. IMHO,Delta

[ncst8er]

I originally got this off the International Hydrostream Registry, but I wasn't able to find it there just now. Hope this gives you some ideas.

[JW]

New Pulsare:

[Techno]

If I was going for max reinforcement I would eliminate the mechanicals and put in as large a set of knees as would fit. If they can fit under or past the seating take advantage of the space.
The rod under tension is fine but under compression can wiggle around, compression can happen in turns as well as bouncing. Only a point support.
The knees support everything and spread it as long along the stringers as you place them. Maybe lighter too, depending on the mechanicals eliminated.

Get rid of the splash well if you don't need the OBs clamp wrap around- doubt it, only Inlines use it. Gain interior space and increase strength. No fish tank.

Just another opinion.

[stevek]

Originally posted by ncst8er
I originally got this off the International Hydrostream Registry, but I wasn't able to find it there just now. Hope this gives you some ideas.

I bought a Valero YT with that identical bracing design.

[fredsav]

The thing is that my transom looks sound. No real cracks at the edges or anything like that. Washers on lower bolt holes have sunk in a bit but I think a plate will fit it.
What I'm looking at doing is just beefing it up A little. Sounds like you guys don't feel that a couple of plates and rods have much of an effect. Right now fiberglass and I have agreed, to disagree. Am still fighting with a non curing gelcoat on my floor, so the thought of taking it up or starting a new glass project is not in the cards

[BLUElixir]

I don't know anything about them really. Who knows if they help but I just thought I would throw it out there for you guys to see!

[BLUElixir]

.

[Delta]

I think most of the responses are agreeing that knees are better,but I think the rods definitely help.If you can't/choose not to do the knees,then use the rod technique...but use tubes instead.They will be more rigid.

An aluminum plate will really help distribute the force of the motor...put that first on your list!

Good Luck,Delta

[FCnLa]

On the rods,( which are really tubes threaded on the inside, sorry :rolleyes: ) I did not have much choice. Knees would not work. At least they did not appear that they would be high enough.

Like Delta said, the aluminum plates would the first thing I would get. One on the outside and one in the splashwell. I have 1/4" plates both inside and out.

If you can find a fab shop with a plasma torch table and can draw a print, it is not that expensive and relatively painless to have them cut it for you. I did it on my last project and all I had to do was drill the holes!:)

[JW]

Somebody had a great idea there. Small and definately works.

Fredsav, do away with the splashwell if you can. They're nothing but trouble. I found out the hard way that all a splashwell is good for is holding in water to eventually seep through tiny cracks and under trim and around the drain to get into your precious transom wood. Check out the outside of the Pulsare, no lip to store water:

[fredsav]

where I was trying to see how I could bolt or glass the support to my stringers ( which to me are supports that run the length of the boat ) . I reach in under the floor near the drain plug to find that the stringers are foam surrounded by fiberglass I guess. Is this normal? Always thought that they were made of marine plywood. This is an 86 vector.

[sho305]

JW--is that bottom relieved at all? Looks like my Bayliner with the flat on the bottom vee like that, only not as wide. That likely will be going faster than my 40mph Bayliner though:D

[fredsav]

I thing it is a mix of some of the posts but most resembles Techno 's suggestion

[fredsav]

Have already epoxied the 1/4" plate to the transom and wondering if it will burn if welded? If welded, may still bolt. Any opinions?

[fredsav]

There was no point in bolting to them, the floor is Plywood covered in glass. It seemed to be a wiser choice to bolt to wood then foam. Puzzled by the foam.

[sho305]

I like it!!!

I just hold a wet rag on it every time it starts to get hot. Pull it off before it gets cold(so the weld area will be warm and dry fast). Wipe away the water and do it again. Just be careful if you get wet or wet gloves or you get a poke:) Gotta wait until the red is gone of course.

[Superdave]

My transom on my Hydra-Sport bassboat. Removed splashwell and used 3/4" marine plywood for knees & transom. Remember...all holes you drill is a place for water to intrude!
Transom pics (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/superdave37076)
Lots of work, but I've jumped some good sized wakes with it with no problems.
Dave

[Liqui-Fly]

Remember with all the fancy aluminum bracing your force is only distributed over the shanks of the bolts you use to fasten them. Over time all your holes turn into ovals and over time this all allows the transom to start moving again. Glassed in knees tied into the stringers is the only way to go.

David

[fredsav]

I'm using epoxy before bolting and the plywood floor seems stronger then the foam in the stringers. May glass over this as well.

[B.Leonard]

Good job buddy! That'll get it done! I like it.

LQ has a point with bolts you have to make sure they stay very tight. Use a lot of washers to distribute the load and prevent crushing.

Glassed would be best on a glass boat/transom. You're mixing different types of materials with very different characteristics in flexing so you have to be careful.

I don't like the STV add-ons, for one, why would anyone go to that length and not do a full bead on the weld!?! GEEEZ that grates my nerves :cool: I would have just added more wood/woven/epoxy in that case.

FC - My tunnel uses knees. The jackplate actualy bolts half on the deck and half on the transom portion of the deck. Only about an inch touching the hull below the deck. Lots of strength using the corner of the deck-to-transom as a mounting point. I'll see if can post a pic. Just put the 1" hydraulic plate on I got from LQ.

-BL

[Liqui-Fly]

I'm speaking from experience and have tried what you have done and have to redo it this winter.

David

[PhastBoat]

Better get to work! you only got 7 months!

P.S. Reports are saying snow for weds night- Thanks alot! Keep that stuff up there with you!:D

[Liqui-Fly]

I'm just gonna bolt some aluminum to my floor and then be a smart ass to anyone who tries to help me. Ya see the floor is the strongest part of a boat.

David

[Liqui-Fly]

By the way thanks. A more formal thankyou will follow when the announcements arrive.

David

[sho305]

What about running the forward small angle out towards the sides more? Would that help? You may have batteries and stuff there though. If you have a back seat you might run pieces up under it too.

[B.Leonard]

No add on is gonna be perfect.

Extend the mounting surfaces as far as possible to eliminate the stress at the point of contact.

-BL

[fredsav]

Just that Mcfly is a favorite expression of an old friend, he called everybody that, no harm intended.
Trying to bolt or glass to whatever I can while leaving the possiblity of still putting the back bench in.Would really like to run supports to the sides but they would have be probably have to run forward of the brace. This would get in the way of the bench.

[Liqui-Fly]

The stringers in your pics. You have to get the bracing tied into those because the floor isn't going to do anything for you. You went through that much effort to get to where you are...finish it off right..it will pay off in the end.

David

[fredsav]

Do you have any pics to post of what happened to yours? Would be very curious to see stress points. My transom is solid, no cracks or movement yet. (Although there is a minor bow in the middle, lets say 1/16 to 1/8 off end to end). Looking for added rigidity and peace of mind. Thanks.

[Liqui-Fly]

Initially the transom was just flat out beat from the factory and I went ahead and redid it two seasons ago but did not move the knees to the stringers to accomodate a gas tank. The knees ran alonmg the the top of the tunnels and there was just no strength there. So the glass wotk I did do creted a study bucket the just went to "work" on the areas surrounding the new stronger work. I then used some aluminum bracing to help with the new failures but this ultimately failed too. What you have will be fine but you must tie it into the stringers and maybe laminate some more plywood to the existiong stringers for about 3 to 4 ft foward.

David

[fredsav]

seems like a good idea. Access might be a problem. Middle is o.k. but, on the other side of the stinger have drilled a 4" hole at back end of stringer. Not a lot of room to play with. Might drill another one under the bench. Going to have a look.fredsav

[sho305]

Hey, maybe its time to install that beer locker you always wanted in the floor?

:D :D :D :eek:

A friend had one with the white plastic door you could walk on, worked great, had two in the floor now that I think of it. One for emptys, and one for ice & beer. Poor coast guard; never thought to look beyond the half a six pack in the frig.....when there was three cases on ice in the floor!!!(in only one side!) It was a 28' vee, so it was bigger:D :p :cool:

[fredsav]

Beer cooler, Hmmmmmm.

[sho305]

He had something like this on each side of the center stringer in his 28', between the back and front seats. You walked on them.
http://www.windward-marine.co.uk/catbuilder/images/large/850014.jpg
or
http://www.western-marine.com/page65.htm

The ice went to the auto bilge, and it was all gecoat in the bottom. The beer cans were right on the stringers in his, no box under there just the door. When you had the boat on the trailer it had condensation on the hull bottom there.:)

[fredsav]

even the stubbies wouldn't fit in here

[B.Leonard]

Note how the deck and floor (tunnel ceiling) are tied together and then the bracket actually mounts mostly on the deck.

Hey Fly, check out the neato jack plate! :D

-BL

[B.Leonard]

-BL

[B.Leonard]

-BL

[B.Leonard]

-BL

[fredsav]

That looks so nice You shouldn't be allow to motor on it. Just paddle it around. You also win the bolts per square inch challenge. Seriously, that's nice work.

[sho305]

I agree, that is a work of art! Very nice indeed.

fredsav-he had no box in there, just the door. You need to be able to not worry about water in there I guess. He also had the same doors in the cuddy, so you could put clothes or whatever in the sides. Not sure if you can buy them as just the door, I would think so. You don't have to put beer in there I suppose:D

[Scream And Fly]

Here's a picture of the all-composite transom knees and wing ties that were made for my my X-Stream during its reconstruction.

Greg

[fredsav]

but the images aren't there. Could you post them again? Thanks.

[175checkmate]

Here is a picture of Greg's transom, looks stout. Going to do something close in the checkmate.

[John1250]

Although mine is still in the planning stage, i got SS rods fron a metal yard. My idea is to use rods of large enough cross sectional area (mine are about 1" by 1 1/4" ) to run tilt/trim lines through. You could also run gas or electrical (depending on make of ob) lines through for a more steamlined appearence.

[fredsav]

Got alum., got SS bolts, got epoxy, mat and cloth.

[fredsav]

11

[sho305]

If that front glass part is tied in good, it looks nice to me! I love the lightened plates, sweet.:cool:

Would be nice to run it up the stringers more, but I have no idea what is in there now.

[Reese]

You've put a lot of hard work into the knees and they look attractive.

Hate to be a monday morning quarterback but the only area that may be of concern is the attachment point where the alum is bonded and glassed in.

Bonding metal to anything is a risky proposition...sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Hopefully your design spreads the load over a wide enough area to minimize the stress on the bonded areas.

Let us know how it works out...