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View Full Version : New Bayliner transom pics



sho305
11-04-2002, 10:41 AM
Here was my little project. Note the transom is one 3/4 board plus a well section for the clamp, and only 18" wide and for 90hp.

Motor clamps were breaking holes through the nearly 3/8" thick skin. Very wobbly, had to strap up motor for fear of it breaking back of boat off on way home. What do you get for $200??? Cut out back, and kicked it from inside lightly. Started digging out crap. Made some cuts I didn't need, this haunted me later some. Check your configuration in there close before cutting.

sho305
11-04-2002, 10:48 AM
Damn scanner, if I can get the right size now....

sho305
11-04-2002, 10:58 AM
Here I've hogged/cut/chipped/ground/sanded the mess out, and painted all with epoxy to seal it up.

Then I fit the board, epoxied it all over, put cloth on the inside to help for less work in the boat. Gooped it up good and clamped/screwed it in there w/SS deck screws. Poured epoxy down the bottom to fill seam around drain. Painted epoxy on clamp/well with a little filler for thickness.

sho305
11-04-2002, 11:09 AM
Here is inside after matting and cloth around edges and in center that is hard to see. Note size of old edge left that was strong and held new board. Had to cut holes to pour epoxy into seams on sides to fill, and bottom some. Stuffed some glass in any large seam before matting. Had to mat up into well seam for well drain in center. Ground/sanded all around to rough up for new matting. There is 'knee' a few inches to right I matted to.

Here back to outside, and tapering seams to glass. Had to fit all pieces back to new board. Used some cheap epoxy on clearance here, then got westsystems. Had to grind out holes in old skin and layer back in. Parked truck on it to get flat again. Screwed/epoxied all old skin back on. Plan to mat outside and pour epoxy down into to fill seams.

sho305
11-04-2002, 11:15 AM
Here I am glassing all seams and screws(countersunk) with thin roven cloth. 3 layers on seams, 2 on screw heads. Used about 7 in holes from motor. Then I started to fill rest of seams with thickened epoxy but had the wrong thickener. Got mad and layed duroglass on there to fill. Hope it is ok in future, and would not do this on a good boat. Maybe it is ok, not knowing. Sure was faster.

sho305
11-04-2002, 11:33 AM
Here is pic of inside when done. Had to fix where gas tanks wore into floor, and crack at knee. I covered carpet and sprayed it with industrial rustoleum spray can white while holding my breath. Later, I cut slats of some nylon left over from a shower enclosure and screwed them down to floor. Nothing will wear through them.


Painted epoxy over duroglass a couple of coats to seal, and sanded smooth. Glassed lip to top of transom and drilled top/filled up with epoxy, ground it off. The VC is pretty forgiving as you do it 10mils thick or so. Painted up bottom as far as I could reach for a better planing finish, and inside of ugly splashwell.

Pic is outside of finished product after a quick wetsand and rub. I used some brown tint as this is off white. Stopped paint at belt trim to top of splashwell, and was going to strip tape it. Color is so close I have not bothered. Mounted motor with 3m 5200 and spaced it up 1/2", so cav plate is above bottom now when level for extra speed on this tug. Looking for pic of motor mounted... Plastic cover on transom was in poor shape. I spraycanned it and glued it on with 5200, thinking it would make a flexable barrier between the motor and hull. Post it when I find it:)

In knowing now....I would have cut out the splashwell at the smallest point on each side and done it from the inside. Not sure how to separate/alighn well from/to transom, might be a pain doing it this way but not as bad as all the finish work to skin.

175checkmate
11-04-2002, 04:48 PM
Funny how the hole transom is notched on the bayliner. Looks strong.

sho305
11-04-2002, 08:11 PM
I know there is more glass there now than before. Except for the wood going to the sides above, it is solid glass beside the wood I put in. Must be 1/2 to 3/4" thick there. I had to fix where I cut there, DUH!. Also, from the outside, the wood was not resined in. There were gaps of air and dry wood not attached to anything, and I filled it to the top with resin. I can see a bit of deflection in it with the motor out of the water. Lot of weight for that motor. Have to get a done pic, I had a skeg welded on and painted the whole motor. Damn Chrysler started up on 3 year old gas just fine. Pulled impellor and it was good, put in plugs and run fine. Looks to have a new block in it.

Reese
11-08-2002, 02:06 PM
Looks good as new.

Now the only thing left to do is add a 10" backset, glass in a 14" wide flat pad and you'll have the fastest bayliner in history.:D

sho305
11-08-2002, 02:39 PM
Funny you say that, as I am seriously thinking about it! What the heck, I don't care...I can cover up some screw holes:D

14"? How sure are you about that? 85hp, 40mph, 16' semi-light boat, and it has that flat on there for easy mounting! They were thinking ahead; I'm up for it!

I thought I could get a straight 2"x10" or 12" and shape the front, and was hoping if I stopped it 8-10" from the back it might work. Will that give me setback? Figure I might have to put a cross piece at the end inside to attach stringers(about 24" apart).Do I need to have a slight vee to the shape? I may have to vee it more at the front as the flat kind of disappears up there, but figure it will only run on the last half of it anyway.

Otherwise, the cav plate on that huge LU is about 1/4 above the bottom level. So it would be 1.5-2" with this, hope not too high. I could glass up the board to work, and do it up better to make it permanent. Has a SS prop but no tach.

I know a Force does not have a right to go that fast(if it worked), but we're still talking peanuts here guys, please help:D ;)

Reese
11-08-2002, 03:43 PM
I was kinda kidding…don’t start up on some crazy project like that you’ll end up divorced or single.:eek:

The bottom pad can be stopped (notched) 8-10” short of the back end of the boat and yes it would act very similar to an engine-mounted backset. The advantage of incorporating a notched pad design is that you’ll get many of the benefits without changing the static weight distribution of the boat (8-10” engine mounted backsets can sometimes hurt hole shot).

I have tried to do as much research as possible to try and find out some mathematical formula that would guide us in designing a pad’s dimensional specifications based on total weight, speed, horse power, etc. and have come to the conclusion it ain’t readily available.

Never the less, by looking at a lot of different designs (mostly bass boats) you can get a fairly good idea of different pad dimensions and compare them to your own boats length and weight. Generally speaking the weight of your boat is more of a determining factor than length. (BTW let me know if you already know all this stuff…hate to be redundant).

You’re going to have to guess a little but if it were me I would incorporate the 10” notch on the bottom (short of the back) make the pad 12-14” wide and about 5-6’ long. Wider pads are much more effective at slower speeds and will also help with hole shot.

Even if you got your boat to do 55 mph, the smaller 10” wide pad would not be effective until you reach 65 mph.

BYW, I'm getting ready to do my own new bottom for a 20' boat and it will have a 14" wide pad 6' long and I have already incorporated a 14" engine mounted backset with a new closed splashwell.

Rickracer
11-08-2002, 03:55 PM
I'm thinking more like 6" or 8". Look at a Vector. They have about 6" or so. :cool:

sho305
11-08-2002, 04:45 PM
I like to screw with stuff! Can't help it. This sounded easy to me??? Your boat looks like a deep one! Shaping up to be sharp though, and unique. This would learn me lots I think, and I am not that familiar with faster small boat hulls. Been around big vee I/Os a lot and going into this now. I understand the concepts, but there are so many different designs???

Thanks for the info, sounds like I had better plan on wider 12-14" if I do it. Many I see now have a vee to them, maybe helps with balance & walk & sliding? Or just smoother wave crashing and less lift? I would have to go with two pieces maybe then. Also this boat has no air lift, like many hi-po boats do. Two 2x8s would give me about 14". If it works I'll make something nicer of course, and lighter. 6' would be easy. You think 1.5-2" height is good? That is what I see most. Need to make sure the transom will not hit trimmed up, at 10" relieved it ought to be ok.

I will have to twist them to stay with the hull forward though as it gets to be a sharper vee and the flat goes away. I'll look at it tomorrow & see where 5-6' is, might have to use plys to get shape instead. Not wanting a big hook in there. Now I can trim it way up, so this raising the motor should be good yet, and the motor will be lower for holeshot.

I'll check it out!

Reese
11-08-2002, 05:02 PM
Yea, lots of boats use a slightly tapered v-pad for two reasons.

First, there is a school of thought that says when a boat is finally getting up on the pad there is a lot of aerated water that is channeled away from the prop with a slightly tapered v-pad.

Second is that the harsh ride is somewhat reduced by the slight vee.

My own opinion is that neither of these two reasons really amount to much. Let's face it, there are many fast bass boats using completely flat pads...and remember a flat pad is the most efficient shape possible.

sho305
11-08-2002, 05:16 PM
Yeah thats just about a foot out of only 16. Maybe I can do it so it can be moved on there or pieces added. Not sure if 85hp and 40mph(maybe more?) would require more or less here than a speey Hydrostream. Do you guys change setback with more power or is it a weight-of-motor thing?

I want to cut some vents or steps in there too, but it seems that the pad is not the place for them. Looks like they only work farther ahead of the transom to get the hull back out of a wave or holeshot faster. And are not used on the pad surface of a vee. They look to not be used on under 18' vees at all that I have seen so far.

Hmmm. So maybe I'll try it flat because it is easier, but I can add that easy. I plan on changing it unless it goes 60mph:D :D :D

Bet I'd be lucky with 5mph...

Rickracer
11-08-2002, 05:22 PM
On second thought, how heavy is an 85 Force???? Maybe 12" would be OK :confused: :confused: :eek: :D

sho305
11-08-2002, 05:32 PM
Believe it or not....I have the manual for it! And it says: 275lb, trim included.

It is a 3 banger. Must have a bigger prop as it takes a bit to get going and is not real fast out of the hole. It has a nice SS, need to find #s and look up. Also has goofy plastic diffuser on there w/no prop exhaust. Thought about trying it without it. Have to run now.

Reese
11-08-2002, 05:41 PM
Those Vectors are very light...remember were talking bayliner.

On a different note, we have a thread on the tech board suggesting we create a new forum for member projects that would help us catalog what everyone is working on and track member projects.

I know you've built and modified several boats...give us your opinion...pro or con.

Team Scream Projects (http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22603)

Rickracer
11-08-2002, 05:49 PM
Then again, whoever is posting about a project could title it "Team Scream Project: Xxxxx", put it in this forum and accomplish much the same thing. I do think it's a good idea though, but Greg is so busy he hasn't even had time to publish Greg's 2 piece drystack article yet. :eek:

Reese
11-08-2002, 06:00 PM
You mentioned Greg has been busy, what has happened with the Team Scream or what ever it was called that had 5 or 6 members assisting Greg with stuff.

I just haven't heard much from that group since it was first put together about a year ago.

sho305
11-10-2002, 02:29 PM
Took some pics of bottom yesterday and whole boat, see if I can get them on here in couple of days. 275 sure felt heavy when we lifted it on there! But my old 80 Merc was too. Took it off to seal it and it sunk into the ground, that was fun.

I'm thinking at 40mph it needs a wider pad around 14"? I'll try 8" relief as it runs best now trimmed very high.

Techno
11-10-2002, 02:53 PM
If your going to change engines why not go bigger? An inline doesn't weigh awhole lot, is fairly cheap and has more power.
I don't know what the V-4s are, maybe the same?

sho305
11-10-2002, 04:56 PM
Oh, I thought about glassing some knees in there or something and hanging the 1500 on there, just thought it would be too much and would not run well. The 1x4 stringers had cracks split down the grain(no rot) in there too, and I doubled them up but did little matting there. I thought high speed might trash something in this 90hp boat. Figured if I added a pad it would add strength to the bottom, and this was just a $200 "screw-around" boat I learned how to do a transom on. It's not a bad boat now that I fixed the seats, and put a floor section in, but I want a 17-18' and 200hp. I keep this for now so I can run it while my Checkmate is tore up, as I was going to pedal it. Thought it would be easy to make a pad plug and screw it on there for fun. If I liked it I would do that on the Checkmate too.

Checkmate: is in bad shape, and I am torn about redoing it all and finding a 200, or finding something else due to lack of time. Looking at houses right now, so work area is not known now. I like the looks, size, BR, and handling of it, so I am still undecided as to what to do with it, or the 1500. Want to run inland lakes here, and thinking I 'll need to stay with a vee or pad/vee.

175checkmate
11-10-2002, 06:05 PM
There just isent alot of them running around.
Of coares mine is so dissasembled right now, should be fun to put it back together.

sho305
11-10-2002, 09:05 PM
OK, just say it! You think the 1500 should be on the 16' Bayliner!

It wants to porpoise when trimmed way out too, not knowing why it does that. How much does my 1500 weigh? Thats a bunch of rigging and glassing if it don't work....hmmm. That might break 60mph....hmmmm.

I like the Checkmate a lot. Its not the fastest, but handles great, takes the waves nice, and is different. Plus, there are few BRs out there.

:confused:

sho305
11-13-2002, 11:20 PM
Here is pics of done bayliner on a dew filled morning, loaded with stuff on way to lake. I used poly tubing on the speedo as the black looked tacky on there, and zip tied it to the trim for non-screw install. Note the now "Ford Mustang White" Force with its new skeg. Even a Chrysler has its day in the sun! Glad it came with a nice prop on it.

sho305
11-15-2002, 02:27 PM
Here is a closer pic of mounting. I glued everything with 5200, under the trim cover, the clamps, bolts, drain, etc. I used a 1/2" high stack of 1/8" nylon I had to raise the motor. You can see a screw sticking out of the stack by the clamp, it holds the sheets in a stack as they were sliding around. It would keep them from sliding out too, but the motor seems heavy enough(275lb) to keep them there. Thought they would pad the transom too.

The trim was shot and broke/cracked here and there. I cleaned and spraycanned it with no other way, and glued every piece on with 5200. Then let it dry before mounting the motor. Put a short screw here and there until the 5200 setup, then covered the screws with it too. Thought all that goo would make a nice pad also. That stuff is like rubber off a tire.

I used real short screws for the pitot that stay in the skin, did not even put in all the way, just drilled hole under 1/4 deep and used 5200 to take up slack. So the only thing in the transom is the two motor bolts I painted holes with epoxy and used 5200 on the outside. The screws in the drain go into epoxy, well lubed by 5200, hope they come out if needed.

Also a layer of 5200 under the whole clamp. Wanted to use a pad under it, but was worried about sealing it, the clamps are only maybe 3/8" wide on the face against transom. Would be nice to have padding there too, maybe next time....so I glued it with goop! It was nice having a whole culk gun full of 5200 to use up for only like $3 more than a squeeze tube. It only stores for a week or so if you tape the culk tube shut. I'll be swearing if I have to take it off.

And yes, that is an old rusty piece of 1 1/4 square steel tubing on the trim ram, if it falls this winter it will not hit the floor.:D It fell in a couple of days when I got it. I put new fluid in there and used it, and it was staying up good then(?). Merc recommended ATF!