1985 300 V8--Ignition Cuts Out -- Frustration is Rising

[Li'l Toy]

This will be too long, but I want to lay out what I've done and what it does.

The problem is that I am pretty sure I am losing one power pack intermittently. A few weeks ago, it was running some then not, but it "settled down" to running on all 8 until I hit right about 3400, where the power would flatten right out and you could hear the change. That is what makes me pretty sure I am losing 4 of 8.

I pulled the flywheel. I opened, cleaned and lubricated with OMC electric conection grease all 3 wire connection plugs for each power pack. I cleaned the eye on the end of the ground wire for each. Earlier, an auxiliary ground had been added to connect both packs directly to the main negative lug for battery with an eye under each ground wire from the powerpacks--I cleaned all eyes as well. Emery cloth until shiny.

When I pulled the flywheel, I found that two magnets had come loose--no damage, just loose. I reglued them, but I wonder if they would just affect how it charges the battery--the signal for ignition, as far as I know, cones from a trigger under the alternator.

I had earlier disconnected and taped off the lead to the neutral cutout switch (I never shift while running).

Then Matt and I took it out. This time it ran past 3400, basically running right, but would occasionally drop off for just a brief time. Essentially the same problem just way more intermitent.

I would love to have a newer, reliable motor, but I can't afford it AND the divorce.

Any help would be appreciated.

[VELOCITY 3.6GT]

I know you won't want to hear this but that is what started with the one that I had. You probably wiped out the stator and when that goes you wipe out the fly wheel. None of this is cheap to fix but try the stator first with new power packs... you may get lucky and not have to replace the fly wheel. While you are at it put a trigger in also .... its not fun due to the tight quarters but worth it in the long run. Hope this helps. GOOD LUCK.

[Capt.Insane-o]

I think I'd go buy a dva meter and do some troubleshooting before replacing every part of the ignition system. :)

[Li'l Toy]

OK, Cap'n I--

Help the guy who still has a timing light and a dwell meter. What is a DVA meter, how do I test (I guess I should read my service manual tonight also, just that S&F has so much more info).

[Capt.Insane-o]

http://www.stevensinstrument.com/peak_dva.htm

http://www.stevensinstrument.com/images/cd77.peak.voltmeter.jpg

[JWTjr.]

a peak voltmeter will help find the problem at the rpm where it occurs...so will a sharp eye and a timing light. Mark TDC and full advance on the flywheel for all 8 cylinders. put a test wheel on or run with a low pitch ski propeller at the ramp half in the water (enough to put a load on the prop without pushing the boat up over the truck...but a test wheel is best). Run the engine to the RPM where the problem occurs and watch the light on each cylinder. Chances are high it's a power pack or stator. Timer bases rarely go bad and it's unlikely to have more than one coil go bad at one time.

John

[modisguy]

can you still buy a stevens cd-77? for about $60 merc makes a good dva adaptor for dvom's especially fluke. if not snap-on does $29. just like the above posts states, a dva is a must for testing.

[seahorse]

Here is a $39.95 DVA asapter

http://esitest.com/640.html

[Li'l Toy]

Alright--I read the book. Will look into the DVA. John--like your idea as well. Unfortunately, right now it is sufficiently intermittent that it will be hard to find with either method. I was better off when it just plain cut out at 3400. Maybe run it some to see if the failure becomes more consistent again.

Thanks all.