Port grinding on chrome bore?

[Flatlander]

I just bought a 2.4 block from a guy on S&F. The block has an exhaust port that looks like it has been ground on. I'm thinking the chrome was peeling and someone decided to grind the top and bottom edge of the port to clean it up. It is fairly deep into the aluminum so I think it may change the port timing on that cyl. What are your thoughts about doing this? I don't have pics right now, but can get some tonight.
Thanks

[WATERWINGS]

subscribed

[Flatlander]

I'm not sure what you mean?

[Sonik]

I'm not sure what you mean?

Flat, John "subscribed" to this thread (under the thread tools tab) so he can come back later and read any potential answers that may be left. You pose a good question and he's interested to know the answer as am I. :thumbsup: good luck!

Jeff

[albypine]

please post pictures.some of the pro's should chime in,good luck......alby

[WATERWINGS]

I have ported chrome blocks myself, and the chrome one I am running now was ported by the builder....no noticable problems so far, but if only one port was done, and not the others........not sure what that will do ?

[Flatlander]

Thanks Sonic, I had never seen that term used before.
I will get some pics tonight and post them later. The port edges look more like a heavy chamfer, probably to clean up some flaw in the cylinder.

[WATERWINGS]

Or to port the motor.....is it all ports, or just one?

[Flatlander]

I bought this block to build Rex's "Cherry 2.4"
It came with 5 chrome bores and one new steel sleeve. I was aware of what I was getting. The thing that I did not know about was the one exhaust port that had the grinding / chamfer done to it. I'm not sure this is a good block to use for building a new motor.

[Flatlander]

I had a hard time getting a decent picture, but this shows the grinding pretty well. Do you think this is ok to go ahead and rebuild?
http://i51.tinypic.com/5zr4nn.jpg[IMG]

[Umassot50]

looks like the chrome flaked and they tried to chamfer it back to keep running it. I hate Chrome bore plating.

[albypine]

could you post pictures of the other bore's... that cly is hurt,but some may run it and have luck, my luck it would not last a day..i dont know alot about the 2.4's if the rest of the holes look good maybe you can have a liner put in it and run it to get your money back out of it...

[Umassot50]

why ruin a perfectly good plated aluminum bore block by putting an iron sleeve in it? i did notice he said one is already iron sleeved, but my preference would be to have it plated with nikasil if thats possible.

[T-REX]

My opinion on this hole would be to put a sleeve in it!!...Tome, theres way too many "grooves" to build a good seel'in mota...One or 2 grooves kan be got away wit, but juss looks too far gone to let ride!!...

U kan raise tha ports on chrome holes, U juss have to use tha rite tools to do it...This pic lookz az if tha chrome peel'd, and wuz ground to find a solid chrome attachment...This big chamfer will definitely affect tha time'in on that cyl!!....Put tha piston in that hole, and a light under that pisson, and az soon az U see light at tha port, that iz ya port time'in...I would bet it iz quite a bit higher than tha other cyls.....

Anywayz, az per ya question, JMO, but I would put a steel sleeve in that hole!!....Hone it wit 240/420/600, then use Schotch Brite on tha hone and polish tha sleel holes...That mota will not know it haz 2 steel sleeves in it(juss use the rings for tha steel holes and tha one for chrome, in thier prospective holes!!!).....

[Flatlander]

Thanks for all the input. The rest of the chrome bores look good. It does already have one new steel sleeve and the guy told me the block was in good shape and ready to go. I am going to return it to him and look for a better block to start with. Besides the front half got broken in shipping. He shipped it in a rubbermaid container! There is a guy local to me that has a 1985, 150hp block. Is the porting the same on a 150 and 200? If so I will take a look at that one.
Thanks!

[fyremanbil]

The 150 will be a 2L.

[Flatlander]

Thanks, for some reason I thought they built a 2.4L 150.

[T-REX]

Tha XR4 iz a 150, and iz a 2.4, but it's a steel bore mota, and tha ports are not neer tha 200!!!

[Flatlander]

I talked to the guy I got the block from and he is looking for another one for me, hopefully a little better shape this time...
Rex, if that 150 block close to me is an XR4, can the port heights be raised to match the 200, or is there more to it than that?

[autotech]

I would sleeve that cylinder if the other 4 chrome cylinders are good. Dont ask me why, but ask some old mercury techs, 2.4 liters run best with 2 steel sleeves and 4 chrome

[Dave S]

I put one together with chrome missing out of 2 clys in spots and the guy said it ran great. Just as good as a good one. It blew up as they all do for that guy.......Junk don't get ya mad when it blows up.

[T-REX]

On tha steel 150(xr4) U kan raise tha port hieghts to tha aluminium port roof, and be at 200 hieghts(sum a tad higher)...Tha 150 haz a vert front...If ya change tha front end to horz, use 200 carbs, and raise tha ports to tha block, it will run so close to a 200(if not better) U kan't tell what it iz!!!!.......Don't fergit, XR4's will make close to 165-170 HP in stock form!!

[Flatlander]

Thanks Rex, I have all the parts to convert it to a horizontal with Wh22's. What pistons should you run, the 150 pistons or 200 pistons? Is this a better way to go instead of trying to get a good 2.4 chrome bore?
It would be kinda nice to get away from the chrome.
Thanks again!

[Dave S]

Steel bore motors want chrome rings......Use the rite rings.

[Flatlander]

yep... thanks

[T-REX]

Pistons are tha same, other than tha 200's have holes for tha finger ports, and sum 150's don't have fingerports...Juss drill tha fingerport holes and U got tha same pisson....Sum early 200's had ART pissons, which are kinna like Mahle types...They were lighter, and would take more rpm!!

I personally like chrome cyls, but a steel bore will run juss az good az tha chrome bores...U kan actually slick tha steel cyls like tha chrome ones, and it works juss az well!!...I juss did a drag copy(steel bore) to exsperiment and see if slick'in cyls would work, and hold up...I honed 240, 420, 600, then used fine scotch brite, then ultra fine schotchbrite wrapp'd around tha hone...cyls look'd like mirrows....11K every time out, and ran over a yeer(crank broke at race)...tha cyls still look'd fine!!!