2.0 merc

[smokinsob]

got me a little ole 2.0 steel sleeved non finger ported motor, what is its potential? I am a drag boat racer at heart but dont think this is a drag boat motor. Can it be bored to a 2.4?

smokin'

[sschefer]

They're all right motors. Notoriously heavy blocks because the sleeves are thick and cast-in. There's certainly plenty of iron to cut one to 2.4 but all the ones I've heard about failed miserably. T-Rex is the guy to talk to about making a drag motor out of one. I ground one up recently and I'm getting 7500 RPM with 125lbs of compression. The heads are in for a .050 cut right now. They are a hearty little motor and will take a lot of abuse but the 2.5 block is the better one for making HP. You can pull another 25hp out of them with a few of the right tweaks.

[wrechin2]

You can pull more than 25HP more out of them. Takes a LOT of work. There is a tuber engine that makes 295HP @9500 rpm that John Marles built. I agree about the 2.5. It is easier to start out with more than to go through and do a ton of work when a 2.5L would put you that much further in the game. I like the 2L as they are hard to kill. If you have the tools and can do the work yourself, go for it. :cheers:

[kerryadelfred]

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5Cpc01%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C04%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Hello,

I m Kerry Adelfred. Today I use this forum first. I learn very much from your forum. Please give me more guidance related to this topic only. I am very happy after using this forum.

Thank You.




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[sschefer]

Hi James, I was just thinkin and typing and figured you could get 25 more out of it without specializing it too badly. My personal opinion for a drag motor (which I know nothing about building) would be to loose the weight and go with a 2.5l

[smokinsob]

Thanks for all the advice, i know that the 2.5 is the choice for a drag boat, just trying to find out what this 2.0 might be good for. Got a 15.5ft hydasports bass boat, bet it will work great on it.

[fyremanbil]

The basic high performance version of the 2L is the SST120. They make about 200hp @ 7500 RPM. You can find the specs on line.

[Water_Dog]

Steve (love the FrankenMerc thread, well done),James, and Rex if you're out there. On the subject of 2L and not trying to hijack anything here, I just picked up a '85 Mariner 150. It needs a crank, which I have a no-oiler 200 crank coming. What else can a guy do without spending big bucks, or needing a machine shop? I can grind out the exhaust, do some square ports, I'll pull the oil inj and pack the hole with epoxy. Best bang for the buck kinda stuff. Thanks

[fyremanbil]

Fill the oil injection void in the block and front half with epoxy.

[faztbullet]

Heres a potent little build sheet that I use on the older non idle port blocks:
A)Clean up exhaust area and taper the exhaust radius with ball mill
B) Install a 200 divider plate and 200 tuner
C) Install a 200 front half
D) Match exhaust port heights
E) Install a set of WH-28 carbs
F) Change to a 200 cowling as intake wont fit in a 150 cowl
G) Install the 4 pedal reed block
H) Cut heads .040( still run 87 octane)
This will give you a nice little mota that will make some additional hp, most of these where able to go up 1-2 pitch sizes and still turn in the 5800-6200 rpm range. Anything over 6500 without port work to intake/exhaust is wasted in my opinion as I've seen it on a dyno and in figures years ago.(Land & Sea)

[wrechin2]

do some square ports,

You don't want to square the ports. I like them to have at least a .100 arc on top of the port and leave the same radius in the corners.

There are many combinations you can go with. It mostly depends on usage. I deal with bass boats and the combination I have used several times on the 90-back 2L and is 1.595 on the exaust with a .025 chamfer and leave the intakes alone, except for a light chamfer. Fill in the oil gear area. Cut all the slag out of the rod slots. Cut heads to 28CC and use the wh-29 carbs with .068 jets. I don't do anything in the chest as it helps bottom. They run very well for a vertical reed engine. This is what I have found that has a good increase and works good for my customers. Here is one of them on a ranger. With the above mods it picked up a little over 6 MPH GPS (59.2 to 65.4).We added a 6" jack plate and now it turns a 24 trophy to 6400 @ 67.1. On the transom it was pretty close as we didn't see the normal increase of about 5 MPH. There is more potential with converting to a horizontal and I have done them as well. But you asked about cheap mods and converting cost more money and time finding the parts. My avatar is my first 2L that I converted. It was a pain finding all the pieces but a very strong engine and worth it for my own. Not worth doing it to every one that comes in the door. Just my experiences. :cheers:

Ranger running. Notice the lift it is getting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDupz_Kcsdo&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDupz_Kcsdo&feature=related)

[Water_Dog]

You don't want to square the ports. I like them to have at least a .100 arc on top of the port and leave the same radius in the corners.


Your talking exhaust ports right?, how do you feel about squaring out the piston ports?

As for use, it's purely recreational, fast pass down the lake, and maybe tow the kids on the tube, so a few more rev's and a little less bottom is OK with me. What years or models were the WH-29's on? I'll get looking for a set. Thanks for the help.

[wrechin2]

You can square the piston ports and taper the edges to aid in flow. I have done them both ways and can't really tell a big difference. But it all the little things that add up that counts. Look at the carbs you have now, you may have a set already. They were a real popular carb. The wh-41's work good as well. I just like the 29's.

[smokinsob]

Can you be more detailed about where on line to find these specs?

[Water_Dog]

are you looking for SST120 specs?

http://www.opcrace.com/TECH/120.pdf

[Water_Dog]

You can square the piston ports and taper the edges to aid in flow. I have done them both ways and can't really tell a big difference. But it all the little things that add up that counts. Look at the carbs you have now, you may have a set already. They were a real popular carb. The wh-41's work good as well. I just like the 29's.


I've got WH-33's. So look for 41's or 29's ??

[wrechin2]

Remember you always have the trade off. You raise the porting to 1.530 like on page 4 and it will be a dog out of the hole and turn high rpm's. With higher rpm's come pistons that can handle it. Thus more money. It will also need the horizontal to make to make a SST120 "copy". By the time you do all that you could get a nice 2.5 block and be that much ahead of the game. Plus it would be a lot lighter. BUT the 2L will surprise you in how much power they can make with just a little work thought and take the abuse and ask for more. The hydrasport will run like a SOB with a stock 2l on it. I have a 84 hydrasport coming tomorrow for some engine work. They are everywhere around here. My "race" boat project is a 17' hydrasport closed bow (see links below) run about that I have got the empty hull weight down to aroung 350-400lbs. I have a 2L tuber engine started already ported to Exhaust 1.525 and the intake left untouched. It has been nearly 2 years, but one day I will have time to finish it, but not having time is a good thing!!! That means I am making money!! Just my .02

[wrechin2]

I've got WH-33's. So look for 41's or 29's ??

Wh-33 are a rare carb (won't find in the manuals) and are what are on the one in my avatar. They are a good carb. They will work fine. They should have .064 mains in them (brass 1/2 with flat head slot in the bottom of the carb). I ended up with .072's in them on the converted 2L.

[smokinsob]

Sweet! Thanks for the link to the SST-120 specs.

[Water_Dog]

No worries, thanks for letting me jump in on your thread :)