Rectifrier on a crossfry

[FCnLa]

Any one else frying these? Rapair replacement. Seems like I go through one a year. Different wiring harness to the control box for this year. I have a new wiring harness for the motor, but have not installed it yet. I don't have any floppy wires or anything that is not grounded.

Last time I was out the volt gauge was pegging past 16 volts. I assume it is the rectifier. I'll check it tomorrow with a meter.

Will this cause a miss because of a lack of volt/amperage going to the power packs? Damn thing is still missing. Won't go over 6K (I don't want to hear any OMC slow crap:D ). The only components I have not replaced are the timer base and the stator, but that should be in another post......LOL!:D

[Jeff_G]

The rectifier won't cause a miss. It is a totally seperate circuit from the ignition. The stator contains two seperate sets of coils, the charge coils for the ignition and the alternator coils. If you are getting 16 volts then the charge system is working and the rectifier. If you have a voltage regulator then 16 is too much. For an unregulated rectifier only system it isn't unusual.

As for the miss it is uncommon for the stator to cause a miss, usually they work or they don't. The OMC motors used one set of charge coils unlike the Mercury with a low and high side. A more likely culprit would be a coil breaking down. As the motor runs and the coil fires they heat up. Sometimes they have a broken wire in the windings internally and as it heats up this wire seperates and causes a mis fire. Do a ohm, resistence test on all the coils cold. Compare readings. Next heat the coils with a hair dryer, compare readings.

[B.Leonard]

Rectifier good, because you have DC voltage, regulator bad because it's so high. Sounds like a bad ground to be blowing something.

Ground everything with a dedicated wire that runs to all components then to your ground post just to be sure.

That's a good idea about heating the coils, they're hard to catch for that reason.

Paul, I've got stators, triggers, power packs, coils and regulators all over the place. Let me know what you want to try, I'll send it right out.

-BL

[FCnLa]

Like I said, all the coils are new, both power packs are new...I know this does not mean they are not broken........

I gonna check the rectifier anyway. I have had a bad one cause high voltage (if I remember right).

Stator and and ignition on different circuits. OK.

I checked it on a spark tester. But not with a meter.

Last time it got a dead miss in #2. I swapped out the bad power pack with a good one. It quit missing. So I put the new one on and it ran fine, except at or above 6K. The packs are Rapair replacements w/o limiters.

All the grounds are good. Clean shiney aluminum under each wire. And the appropriate washers under the spade.

Thanks.

[A.J. Pastwa]

I was getting 16+ volts. Changed out the recitfier regulator. Same problem. O.K. at idle----16+ volts at WOT.
Anyone got any ideas????????????????? 1998 200 JonhRude

[Jeff_G]

What reading at idle? What reading with motor off. Try another voltmeter. Did you do a resistance test on the stator? Did you check the amp output from the rectifier/ regulator. That motor should be at 14.5 volts at running speed around 4,500 rmp then as the battery reaches full charge it will reduce. Did you do a load test of the battery?

[A.J. Pastwa]

The reading, at my voltage gauge and my depthfinder was 16+ volts. I took it in to get some work done to it and haven't got it back yet. I'll check the other readings when I get it back this weekend. The battery is brand new and charged up. Did not check amperage output, yet. As far as the stator is concerned, what should the resistance be?

[VectorPat]

What year and horsepower is this motor??Some crossflows did not have a regulator.. Check voltage at the battery and at the regulator..If there is a purple wire at the regulator check voltage there with the key on..If the voltage is lower there than at the battery it will make it charge high..

[A.J. Pastwa]

It's a 98 200 JoheRude Looper. I'm guessin' the next thing to look at is the stator? Whatta ya think?

[Jeff_G]

The stator resistance should be .17 +/- .05 ohms. Check the stator for grounds/ shorts. Check the output from the rectifier/regulator with the red wire disconnected from the harness. How many Volts. Put an ampmeter between the red wire from regulator and batery terminal on starter solonoid and see what the output is at 4,500 rpm, should be close to 30 to 35 amps.
However if you are getting 16 v on your guage then the stator should be fine and the Regulator not operating properly or a defective battery. Try another battery also.

[VectorPat]

Still check the purple wire at the regulator while it is running. It should be close to the same voltage at the battery..If it is low it will cause high battery voltage..

[sho305]

Call me stupid, but this was a new one to me:

My old Merc came w/out a prop. I got a Michigan wheel from a Merc dealer to try. Would not run above 4600 no way. Fine below that. It missed. Went through whole ignition/charge system. ???no problems. Swapped out coil even. After a couple of months screwing with everything, I took the damn thing in.

Turned out to be the PROP! $%*^$!!! It had a larger diffuser on it and richened it at higher speed, like putting the choke on. Then the dealer said I had the wrong prop finally after testing it on the water, as could not find it. They let me choose any prop I wanted, and charged very little for the service bill:)