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View Full Version : Need Suggestions On Twin Battery Setup



KaptainKirk
10-21-2002, 08:44 PM
Sorry for the caps been mad lately.....

need all your different style of setups with twin
12volt batteries

what type and where did ya get twin bracket setup
what type of batteries do you use in twin application
what type of wire do you use...gauge...etc.
where do you mount in boat
what difference did ya see in boat performance
how much does your setup weigh total

thanks in advance for all answers....no matter how small.
also if anybody has photos of there setup would be great.
also if anybody has a good idea on this subject

thanks...K.K.

NPK2003
10-21-2002, 11:13 PM
Hey Kirk!

I would suggest that if you are going to use those 13 lb, 40% off list batteries, that you take a few precautions on your installation so you don't have any problems at Nickfest 2003 remaining King of the drags.

1. Find two insulated cooler chests with an inside dimension at least twice the size of the battery to be used. Color doesn't matter. Be sure they have a very good latch mechanism for the covers.

2. Layout the two cooler in such a way as to be able to mount them as far forward as possible, preferably, one in the tip of each pickle fork.

3. Transfer the layout to a sheet of stainless steel plate at least 3/4 inch thick, then drill and tap for four 1/2-13 threaded studs and machine a pair of 2" x 1" x battery width + 1/2" per side straps to hold each cooler securely up front. Ya don't want any rattles where ya can't get at them easily.

4. Secure the 3/4 " plate to the bottom of the forks by roughing up the flooring, then building with 5/8 " plywood, a couple of dams front and back of where the plates will rest in the pickles. Attach the dam pieces with liquid nails, or PL200 deck glue if you want more flexability in cold weather.

5. drop the coolers in between the dams and shim them tightly with cold rolled steel strip stock. DON"T SCRIMP HERE! No need for the cooler to jiggle later up front as it will weaken the battery cells.

6. with the cooler shimed in between the dams, pour about 4 gallons of premixed Bondo body filler all around the coolers. Fill as high as possible, while still being able to close the cover tightly.

7. Line the cooler inside with a layer of aluminium foil and place one battery in each cooler. Now fill the cooler with a batch of polyester fiberglass resin up to but not over the connection studs of the batteries. Drill holes in the cover for the 4 gauge wire to pass through for you connections.

8. Let entire setup cure 24 hours to prevent any cracking when drag racing through the offshore boat wakes at Blarney's.




Next Day: You may need an electrician!!!

1. You will need a minimum of 150' of number four gauge multi stranded copper wire in insulated rubber jacketing to assure minimal resistance to your trim pump from the batteries. Using clamp-on connectors, wire your trim pump for 24 volt UP operation by connecting the UP button between your batteries and the pump up solenoid. Be sure to wire the batteries in series for this button.

2. Now wire the down button to the down button and then to the down solenoid for the pump with another set of the 4 gauge wire.

3. Forget using those cheap, lite weight cable ties! Your wire runs are now the diameter of small gas mains. Use stainless muffler clamps, one per foot, to secure the wiring nice and neat.

4. Test trim pump for speedy UP and ho-Hum down operation. If any trouble, recheck all connections.

5. When working properly, drop on each battery the two 2" x 1" x battery width straps and secure down with 1/2-13 nyloc nuts. Don't forget to use washers between the strap and the nut! Close cooler covers and latch securely.

6. Finally, you MUST now rebalance the boat by replacing your original starting battery with two heavy duty Sears Diehard Forklift batteries set aft and slightly to port. These batteries are extremely heavy, however, do not need the insulating battery boxes like the light weight super cell batts up front. Simply make up another stainless plate and tap for 1/2-13 studs as before. All other wiring goes through this battery set and MUST be 12 volt, so wire in parallel, not series.

The above may seem like a lot of work, but you will be rewarded when you see pictures of how sleek your Riot looks sitting 8" deeper in the water than it does now. But really, the best thing is you will be able to launch from the line trimmed all the way in and at the touch of your UP Trim button, rocket the Gohrcury up to neutral trim in NanoSeconds!

Yo Da Man and IT's Da Island!

Need more help, call me and I'll come by Bills to assist.

Your Gaurdian Amigo Angel

Nick K:D

KaptainKirk
10-22-2002, 03:17 PM
Thanks Nick......just when I am down ya sink me boat wit all yo wit!!

Thanks for the :)'s

Later...K.K.

Techno
10-22-2002, 04:51 PM
I did have a deep cycle and starter. This is being changed to 2 starter batteries. The deep cycle are for continuis loads and that doesn't exist on my boat. The cheapest I can get- about $40 each, medium high cranking amps. I don't know what they wiegh 45 lbs?

Welding wire I scavenged from work. It's big and very flexible. And free.

mounted directly ahead of the fuel tank under the cover- ProComp Ski. I could put them at the back on each side but am now moving everything out in the open, including trim pump and fuel system filters.

No change in performance but nothing to compare to. I've since saved around 50 lbs of wieght in modifications. Even- even

I'm planning on using the dual battery switch but also having 24 volt start and an auxillery 24 volt up trim. A switch will activate the wheel switch,12V or 24 V.

Most important is the charger that is getting mounted in the boat. Plug an extension cord to a fitting and the batteries are on charge. I've seen outragous costs for these, recently I picked up a charger for $9 bucks from an auto store. Low amp and does shut off.

Jeff_G
10-23-2002, 09:28 AM
What are you trying to do? How do you use the boat? Are you going to run 24/ 12? Pleasure? Race? Stereo? Trolling motor? Give us the details and we can help.

Balzy
10-23-2002, 10:29 AM
How many drinks did it take to come up with that one??????????? LMAFROTF :D :D :D

sho305
10-23-2002, 11:13 AM
Sounded good, but I'd use some old cast iron wheel weights off an old tractor in the back...you know, to counter-weight the batterys in the front. :D Naw, put a kicker 10hp in there for emergencies.

All the ones I seen in larger boats used the marine switch to use one or both at a time. Wouldn't think you need huge wire for the trim unless you are far away from battery, unlike the starter that will. Yet if you start from the closer one or both it still would not have to be as large as the stock wire. Most just get another battery box and mount it up where they want it. I have seen trailer isolators used on the second battery so you can run it dead with a stereo or trolling motor and still have the regular battery good. May not be able to if you are going to run the 24v trim thing.

KaptainKirk
10-23-2002, 03:24 PM
pleasure/race
24/12
no trolling mota
no stereo
no lights in gauges
Have ta have running lights though
I like the idea of mounting in front of the gas tank.
Any cool brackets for two batteries out there??

MTCM
10-23-2002, 04:18 PM
Item 506.........


http://www.seebold.com/html/parts4.htm

Jeff_G
10-24-2002, 08:51 AM
Kirk, if the only need is starting use two motorcycle batteries. No need for anything bigger. Run a battery cut off switch so you can disconnect the batteries in storage and towing. You can use angle aluminim instead of a battery box and a hold down like with a oil tank. This set up is lightweight, reletively inexpensive. Where you put it in your boat will depend on the balance point. In my boat it weights about 26 pounds total and I run 24V starting.
One suggestion is if you use motorcycle batteries to use a 2 amp charger, never anything bigger. I used to ruin a lot of batteries by too high a charging rate.

sho305
10-24-2002, 11:35 AM
I think I blew a cell out of my 2yr old battery...so I ran it the rest of the summer with a portable jumper on it...it worked good and got me thinking about that little battery in there...:D :D

Oh yeah, and they got that sweet little voltage gauge on them too...I like that...and the included flashlight...and I could take it out to charge or whatever, but the boat charged it anyway so I could jump other things with it! And the 12v outlet for phones and spotlights...free charger comes with...can even get big ones with 110v AC, but who needs? Run a blender for drinks?

More--they have nice handles on them, and can be bungeed in there easily...can be found for +/- $39 or so, so maybe two could do it? Hell, I'm gonna do that next summer! Thanks for reminding me:D :D :D

NPK2003
10-25-2002, 06:48 PM
Thought you or others on thi board might appreciate this diagram. Works with Merc standard wire colors.

CRMERC
10-25-2002, 07:41 PM
I think i may have a solution for your problem. I started with a pair of agm 8au1hm batteries. These batteries weigh 24 lbs each and are reasonably priced. A single 24 m 600 cranking battery hits the scales at about 50 lbs. The problem with most simple 24 volt wiring systems is that they don't charge the aux battery. Plus they pretty much leave the primay battery with all the chores of running the motor, radio, lights and fishkill 3000 depth finder. The solution is to have the batteries hooked up in parallel configuration. So I have sent you a picture of the flux capacitor. This little item works off one paddle switch on the dash board to toggle between 24 and 12 volts. This uses 2 relays and 4 solenoids to convince the motor that it is working only in 12 volts (those pesky rectifiers dont like being disconnected from the battery while the engine is running). I can give you a wiring diagram as soon as time allows. The battery tie downs are aluminum that i made.

CRMERC
10-25-2002, 07:48 PM
How could NPK 2003 hurt and mame those innocent little beer coolers? what did they do to you? What is it? step 13 of a 12 step program.

Here is a picture of the flux capacitor. Not a good picture

Techno
10-25-2002, 08:21 PM
While not a flux capacitor these are actual caps. Forgot the micro farad rating but withstands way more than 15,000 volts AC, Don't want them blowing. Teflon and flashing sheets, Linseed oil! They work very nice too. The 2 large ones are the main caps and the 2 skinny 1/2 ones are only for tuning.
I also scavenged a 5 farad cap, but it has a low volt rating 60 volts? A few of these for a future project. Cap bank. It's amazing what you can do with stored energy.

Now back to our regularly scheduled show.

NPK2003
10-25-2002, 09:54 PM
How could I abuse those coolers. Truth is, I couldn't do that. But don't tell Kirk! He whooped me in my first ever attempt to drag race my Euro. I figured if he put a little weight in the front pickles, then threw some more in the back, his super secret prop would just cavitate next time and I'd maybe get a jump on him at the next NickFest!

Us STV guys need to keep our secrets from them other folk ( Like AMIGOS!)

Nick K

pantera1
03-10-2003, 09:12 PM
This is a pretty good page talking about different battery/ engine combos...

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/dualBattery.html

sho305
03-10-2003, 10:34 PM
Dang NPK2003, looks like you got that hydromagnetic levitation system working just right in that pic;) Nice shot.