Diy 3 litre tuner mods with pics

[Skater 32]

I'M SOMEWHAT NEW AROUND HERE AND ONLY A FEW KNOW ME . I HAVE DESIGNED AND ENGINEERED SEVERAL PRODUCTS , SOME MARINE , SOME NOT , AND IN THE MIDDLE OF A 32 SKATER RESTORATION AND DID NOT WANT TO SPEND 35 K FOR PAIR OF 300 XS ( 305 hp ) SO I DECIDED TO BUILD PAIR 225 3 LITRE EFI MODDED BY SHAUN TORRENTE OUT OF FLA TO MAKE AROUND 325 HP , ( REALLY A GREAT GUY ) .

BEEN STUDYING THIS TUNER THING FOR SOME TIME AND MADE A FEW CALLS TO WELL KNOWN MERC MECH AND RACERS AND HERE A DIY HOME TUNER THAT WILL SAVE YOU 200-300 $ FOR THE COST OF 4.00 FOR A CUT -OFF WHEEL . I FEEL THAT MODIFYING THE STOCK TUNER IS NOT ONLY CHEAPER BUT IF YOU CLOSELY LOOK AT THE STOCK TUNER IT HAS DIFFERENT LENGTH RUNNERS , WHY ? BECAUSE OF THE ARRANGEMENT OF CYL STACKING AND THE ENGINEERS WHO DESIGNED THOSE RUNNERS KNOW WHAT THERE DOING AND YES THEY HAD TO MAKE COMPROMISES ( LONG STOCK 225 TUNER ROUTED THROUGH LOWER ) THEY STILL HAVE THE BEST CYLINDER SCAVENGING AS PRIORITY ONE .

[Skater 32]

More pics

[boatn70]

are there to what your doing? i remember my old 2.4 liter, the tuner is the part with the two exhaust runners, it looks like you only cut off/shortened the portion below the tuner, in the midsection...im confused :confused::confused:

[Bruster]

Do you have your solid motor mounts for this? Check this link!

Bruce

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=202695

[cranknrods]

are there to what your doing? i remember my old 2.4 liter, the tuner is the part with the two exhaust runners, it looks like you only cut off/shortened the portion below the tuner, in the midsection...im confused :confused::confused:

:iagree::confused:

[luckybuff]

Good article, thanks for the post. Junior "Cajun" Member!

[mrcrsr]

i did mine the same way, but i also welded in the water dump holes in the top, and drilled them to a much smaller size, and i also dry stacked it internally w/ 1/2 " sst tubing, that way the gearcase still gets cooled, unlike an external poppet diverter, drilled a couple of small spray holes to cool the mid so the paint doesn't get scorched, and i used bob's machine solid mounts

[native2]

Good stuff...... Keep it coming. I want to hear about the mods as well .:thumbsup:

[mrcrsr]

i'll let you guys know, just built a fully hopped up 3 litre, its on break in now, i'm playing w/ some aeromotive stuff on it now:thumbsup:

[activator22]

As far as where you are cutting, isn't that the same area where Eric Simon is suggesting to cut ? http://www.simonmotorsports.com/poppet/poppetinstall2.html

[hydrostream1]

That looks like the eric simon mod,I did that to my 300promax,definetely helps,sounds good,but not too loud.What is exactly hopped up?Besides the normal mods already shown in older posts.

[Skater 32]

3 litre efi with xs stoker crank , will be in water 2011

[Eagle One]

Good info and a very practical solution very similar to what we've done for a while. Now I'd say you should take it a step further by making some reliefs in the tower housing to let what you've freed up out of the tuner get out of the tower housing.. The 2.5 L models have 5 simple 1/2 inch holes ( 10 total) drilled in each bottom side of the tower housing right above the cav plate. You can do something very similar in this case. I don't recommend drilling any areas in the back or sides of the vertical surfaces of the tower housing unless you reinforce them somehow as the tower housing is prone to crack from the stress in some cases.

[Skater 32]

Thanks for reply but there is no need for more holes , my stock 20 inch 3 litre can already has relief slots from factory . not sure why they are there but with cut tuner some exhuast will exit there

[Liberator*21]

Good info and a very practical solution very similar to what we've done for a while. Now I'd say you should take it a step further by making some reliefs in the tower housing to let what you've freed up out of the tuner get out of the tower housing.. The 2.5 L models have 5 simple 1/2 inch holes ( 10 total) drilled in each bottom side of the tower housing right above the cav plate. You can do something very similar in this case. I don't recommend drilling any areas in the back or sides of the vertical surfaces of the tower housing unless you reinforce them somehow as the tower housing is prone to crack from the stress in some cases.

Did that with mine. There are casting pockets right behind the stock exhaust reliefs, just drilled out the corners and poked holes in between the corner holes then knock out the remaining cast material and clean up with a rotary file. It does make quite a difference decible wise and reduces slip at the prop too because of venting more before the prop shaft.

[Skater 32]

Yes Solid mounts and I bought them from you