how to cap the top of a transom job?

[pcrussell50]

not sure if i asked this in my rat-rod resto thread or not, but after you've done a plywood transom job, how to you "cap" it? IOW, how do you finish off the top edge? just fill it with well wetted CSM and sand it? fill it with epoxy-wood dough or epoxy-glass filler? other?

i don't know how boston whaler does it, but my little whaler has a nice tidy looking finish job on the top of the transom.

-peter

[Ronny Jetmore]

show a picture of what you mean. if the transom is finished structurally, then you can simply use thickened resin as a filler. if you need to fill a quarter inch or more than i would be certain to use epoxy since it won't shrink much, and before you add filler (like silica or glass bubbles) then i would add some chopped strand to it to give some impact resistance. once you get it real close to perfect, skim it with some 407 or 410 mixed with epoxy. 410 is easier to sand, but you have to put a couple coats of epoxy over it as a barrier coat when finished, but prior to paint. be sure to bevel everything so you have lots of "bite" surface. this will reduce the risk of breakage or any cracking. by the way, only use the 410 if you are painting with a light color afterword. it does not like darks. then again, no fiberglass repair likes darks after long enough time.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

I have done a lot of custom capped decks when i was employed at Skater and have always used epoxy mixed with cabosil making a raidus , glassing over the cap (radius) with two layers of glass fairing everything in with filler glassing over filler with a finish fabric , prime . I would like to mention that some people like somewhat of a semi flush finish and others prefer a radius on the cap like we always did at Skater .

[pcrussell50]

ronny, i was ASSuming the job was finished from a structural perspective once the the new transom was glued to the outer skin and the new inner skin is laid up and cured. what i was asking about was how to finish to very top edge. it will of course have been well soaked/wetted with epoxy. but does it need to be covered in glass?

remember, this is for my "rat rod" resto, so paint and finished looks are unimportant to me. strength and water resistance are what counts for me in this project.

-peter

[Ronny Jetmore]

then i would go ahead and use a layer of mat, then biaxial and be done. it will look rough, but very strong. any low spots prior to laying glass on, put some silica filled resin in, and then before it hardens wet it out again and lay your glass.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

then i would go ahead and use a layer of mat, then biaxial and be done. it will look rough, but very strong. any low spots prior to laying glass on, put some silica filled resin in, and then before it hardens wet it out again and lay your glass. Ruff is not the word and if you are going to to the job do it right not half a$$ and if you have to fair ( bondo ) in the rest of the job after all is said and done you just might want to put finish cloth over everything so the bondo does not ever crack and to give it a smooth finish , then sand and prime . there is no compromise for something that looks rough , just shoty workmanship and might i mention that if there are any low spots prior to laying glass let the resin putty cure first and sand because laying glass over a surface filled with a wet putty can take a job from good to bad to worse depending on the thickness of the putty , when doing this type of work .

[pcrussell50]

then i would go ahead and use a layer of mat, then biaxial and be done...snip...

thanks, ronny.

ginger, this whole boat was purchased for a $1000, with great motor and trailer. it's been painted over in camouflage by the previous owners kids using rust-o-leum cans. there is just no way i have any intention of restoring it or making it look nice. i just want to feel safe when i take my mom or my 3-month old daughter out in it.. i've used it for the last year and a half, and it's still solid, but water IS getting to the transom and stringer and i just want to get her safe and that's about it.

what i really want is a no-rot allison... or a hydrostream that i KNOW FOR SURE has been done right. but they are all back east, so i have to find one and buy it, and THEN arrange to get it back out here. i'm taking my time. it's going to be a process.

here's how rough it looks:
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_mOL8GggZY7w/SQZXyaedy6I/AAAAAAAAA7s/QEsUcH0NWN8/s400/118127133ZZZZZZZZZ8a230d909d8deb01a9e.jpg

-peter

[Ronny Jetmore]

he said he didsn't care what it looked like, and about the fairing, a lot of people, and even fiberglassing manuals will tell you that you can glass over some filled areas, especially using the method i mentioned in thickening the resin with some chop in the filler. it will be strong, but he isn't worried about looks.

[OFFSHORE GINGER]

Sorry to all and with that in mind your call .

[pcrussell50]

Sorry to all and with that in mind your call .

lol, ginger. don't get all ruffled. no apology neccessary. your opinion here is much appreciated.

your profile says you're profession is in fiberglass repair, so i can't hold it against you for looking down on an amateur like me who isn't attempting to achieve a professional finish. even now, it's mostly gutted, like a race boat. it is only partially carpeted, with thin felt. the only electrical system is a tach and the choke/starter switch. it doesn't even have lights. and i actually LIKE it that way. easier to maintain. i don't even wipe it down after use, [fresh water only], etc... it's grab'n'go, and put away wet.

-peter