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rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 09:40 AM
Does anyone know where I can get info that will help me set up an old performance trailer for a 20' V boat. It is such a pain to get it centered, and it's time to make some improvements/adjustments.
I have to admit I am starting with little experience and only my common sense to guide me, which at times gets me into trouble...

TIA,
Chris

Rickracer
10-01-2002, 09:50 AM
Can you post some pics? We may have some suggestions for you if we can see what you're working with.

rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 10:36 AM
Thanks,
The pix I have of boat on trailer don't show the hull on trailer close-up. I'll look to see what I have, but I may have to take some new pictures after work....

rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 10:55 AM
I found these photo's...do the give any clues as to why this thing is so hard to load straight..?

ps...please disregard the condition of the boat- these are old photo's.

Rickracer
10-01-2002, 11:02 AM
...but it looks like you probably could use another set of bunks outside the outer set of strakes, and then move the inner one to the edge of the inner set. That will keep you straight as you go on the trailer, and give more support to the bottom of the boat as well. :cool:

rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 01:25 PM
That could help a lot.
There are 4 (I think) 10" keel rollers that you can't really see here too.
I notice that when loading even on ramps with small pitch - that the stern of the boat is floating well above the rear rollers when the boat is rolling uo the forward ones.
That implies that the back rollers need to be higher, or the fron lower, but the implications and effects of doing this hardly seem right.... I'd need a 5 ft tall jack for the tongue.

Do the vertical pipe-style guides help with the side-to-side alignment, or is this just another hype product?:confused:

Rickracer
10-01-2002, 01:37 PM
except keep the bow from hitting the trailer. Once you get the outer bunks on there, they will guide you on straight, they are higher up, and moving the lowers to the edge of the strakes will guide it as well.

rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 02:05 PM
So this way the strakes, or chines just nest themselves into place if the bunks are placed just right.... thanks to gravity. The load will be more evenly distributed also, I see......

But you didn't say anything about the poles -will they help further, or are they just a waste of $?

rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 02:06 PM
So what will that take, some bunk brackets, some PT lumber and some carpet???

Sounds like a no-brainer. Thanks!

Rickracer
10-01-2002, 02:23 PM
I don't care for them myself, for the style of boats I use, but that doesn't mean they aren't any good. I'd do the bunks first, and then see how it goes, no sense spending money you don't need to.

Techno
10-01-2002, 05:08 PM
a big thing for putting any boat back on is just how deep the trailer is. Once you find the good zone compare the water on the fender or something. If its too deep the bunks are under water and the boat is floating above the submerged trailer, no guidance.
If its too shallow you test the load rating of the rope and winch.
When its just right the boat begins to beach onto the bunks and tends to stay there.

the guides, I can float my bow over the trailer. IF these guides were on I would have to float it into the channel of the guides. More work for me.

I've also noticed the bigger the boat the more difficult it is getting it on straight. I walk down my trailer, grab the bow and drag it up as far as possible. This hands on method allows easy wiggling to get it right. For me this means about a 2' crank distance so its kind of cheating.

Rickracer
10-01-2002, 05:18 PM
I set them up that way. And when I say drive on, I mean only the last 2 to 3 feet requires any power to go forward, by then it's centered and not drifting anywhere. Might have to winch a few inches, but generally not. I also set them up to be as low as possible, sometimes moving fenders and filpping axles, so I don't have to back the tow vehicle into the water to offload the boat. Often, ramps get steeper the farther back you go, so the less you have to submerge the trailer the better. Another thing is that the center bunks will tend to keep you going straight where the rollers wouldn't. :cool:

rookieflyer
10-01-2002, 07:06 PM
Ah, how easy dry storage and fork lifts are....those were the days.

But then again, my 6500 lb. sea ray wasn't very fast either......

I learn this trailer thing sooner or later. I see guys driving onto their trailers and otherwise getting it straight on in one quick effortless motion. I just think my trailer was set up by a moron - or it wasn't set up at all.

When I realize that I bought the boat & trailer together, and that everything the previous owner touched had to be torn out and disposed of, it's no wonder the trailer is set up so poorly also.

Last weekend I thought I'd take a look at the bearings and hubs and found them about two turns loose and with large nails thru instead of cotter pins. You know, nice rusty nails....I won't even try to list all the poor work I yanked out of the boat.

There should be a list somewhere of people who should not be allowed by law to carry or use tools of any kind!!!
Hmmm...maybe I'l start that list!

Rickracer
10-01-2002, 10:02 PM
Before Scream and Fly, I had never seen a trailer I couldn't vastly improve upon as far as setup and adjustment to the boat, unless it was made for the boat, like my aluminum Glastron trailer was. It spoiled me, and made me want every boat I had/have to fit that good. :cool: