Drive shaft pitted.Replacement ???

[Fast-Trukin]

I had my torgemaster lower unit taken off my 1999 promax 225 hp efi mercury outboard.When we drained the gear lube, it came out with water in it.I had it disasembled, as I shipped the lower unit to bobs machine shop to have them install a low water dual hose nose cone.Then I sent the case to bobs empty.Anyway, the drive shaft was pitted "lower pinion bearing serfise on drive pitted badly and water in lower unit,water Impeller shot(most likely from running the drive out of the water on my lavy tunnel boat)"......My question is how much is a new drive shaft for my promax?We are going to install a new drive shaft and water impeller,seals and lube.This project is getting more.............:(

[Eagle One]

If the pits are not "bearing marks" and just small pits which the needle bearing rollers will ride over, you might be able to get by with it. If they are across the surface where the roller will actually drop into the pit it won't last long at all. You'll certainly need to change the bearings regardless. Drive shaft for a torquemaster is expensive. I'd suspect around $600.00 or more without looking it up. If the unit is one of the models without dual cone bearings under the water pump housing, a stock shaft will interchange and is far less expensive not to mention the upper part is stainless.

[GTO GEORGE]

You can fix the shaft seal surface where the water in the lu came from. Robert Saunders will plasma spray the shaft with a stainless material that'll never corrode and machine it to size for $150+ freight, 1-2 day turnaround. Call 713-771-0095.

[TEXAS20225]

also put a speedy sleeve on it im sure if its like all the rest of them its contained mostly in the pump area below the impeller. speedy sleeve is 30.00 and about 15 minutes

[M. HARDEE]

merc driveshafts upper seal speedy sleeve--- car guest part #99087 dim 0.873-0.877 ---- most stores don't stock but can have next day :cheers:

[TEXAS20225]

Supply house's have them in stock they are stainless they slide over your shaft use some epoxy under it all way around so water does not pass under it they will last a long, long time if installed right i put one on my first torqmaster in 1998 it was sill working when i sold it 3 years ago with a cone on it :D:D

[Fast-Trukin]

I put in a call to Mercury Racing and got a call back from a tech.He told me to buy a new drive shaft.It sucks:nonod:, but I feel that Ill go and do it.Ive talked to a lot of high performance experts and have gotten a lot of good feedback.My goal is to drive the hell out of this tunnel for the next two seasons and then buy my 100 mph cat from wildman:rolleyes:.I was going to post some pictures,but I forgot to take the old drive shaft from the shop.

[HStream1]

I put in a call to Mercury Racing and got a call back from a tech.He told me to buy a new drive shaft.It sucks:nonod:, but I feel that Ill go and do it.Ive talked to a lot of high performance experts and have gotten a lot of good feedback.My goal is to drive the hell out of this tunnel for the next two seasons and then buy my 100 mph cat from wildman:rolleyes:.I was going to post some pictures,but I forgot to take the old drive shaft from the shop.



I put in a call to Mercury Racing and got a call back from a tech.He told me to buy a new drive shaft.It sucks:nonod:.

Well DUHH:confused:. Speedy sleeve is the way to go. Believe what you hear from Texas. But it's your money not mine thankfully.

[M. HARDEE]

I think in your case you should always buy new shaft. YOU should not go with speedy sleeve. :thumbsup: :cheers: I WILL NOT SELL A UNIT WITH ONE IN IT (For obvious reasons)but will run one in my personal stuff and never bat an eye.

[TEXAS20225]

wish i was selling parts in that neighborhood :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

[Forkin' Crazy]

You can fix the shaft seal surface where the water in the lu came from. Robert Saunders will plasma spray the shaft with a stainless material that'll never corrode and machine it to size for $150+ freight, 1-2 day turnaround. Call 713-771-0095.

That's the best deal I've seen. Going to send him mine.

[Fast-Trukin]

I think in your case you should always buy new shaft. YOU should not go with speedy sleeve. :thumbsup: :cheers: I WILL NOT SELL A UNIT WITH ONE IN IT (For obvious reasons)but will run one in my personal stuff and never bat an eye.
This is what I was thinking that,If I was going to sell the motor,then I would use the speedy sleeve and sell it.I sure as hell:reddevil: dont want to have this pro-max come loose and have any down time in our short 6 month season, here in maryland.The guy who is doing the work on the pro-max is dead set against it.At least he is cool with me buying it outside of his shop.Mercury wants to make a sale,I understand that:iagree:.Right now Iam doing good at work and making good money,not sure if it will last forever.Iam working 16 hours a day, so Iam earning it.:cool:I didnt plan on this but it is what it is.............I ordered it yesterday from BAM MARINE internet site.

[Fast-Trukin]

You can fix the shaft seal surface where the water in the lu came from. Robert Saunders will plasma spray the shaft with a stainless material that'll never corrode and machine it to size for $150+ freight, 1-2 day turnaround. Call 713-771-0095.
I looked into doing this and was told (by more then one person) the bearings are going to ride on the repair spot and it would not last.Not to do it.

[M. HARDEE]

I looked into doing this and was told (by more then one person) the bearings are going to ride on the repair spot and it would not last.Not to do it.:iagree::iagree: PINION BEARING area would NOT be something i would want to repair . :cheers:

[seansbaja1982]

Doe's any know the part number for a regular stainless driveshaft for a single bearing 4 Hole CLE lower, or which one would interchange? It is a 20 inch shaft. Also have corrosion on lower pump base seal area and on impeller keyway surface. Thank's...

[Fast-Trukin]

Doe's any know the part number for a regular stainless driveshaft for a single bearing 4 Hole CLE lower, or which one would interchange? It is a 20 inch shaft. Also have corrosion on lower pump base seal area and on impeller keyway surface. Thank's...
I got my numbers by going to bam marine and using my serial number of my engine,I looked up the part number by the picture screen.Easy to use.

[GTO GEORGE]

I looked into doing this and was told (by more then one person) the bearings are going to ride on the repair spot and it would not last.Not to do it. I have had Robert do three shafts for me, one my personal boat and two others and they worked perfect. There is no issue with the bearing surface. He fixes the seal area only. Even if the bearing surface needs rehab, there is no problem because the bearing doesn't move(rotate) on the shaft, it's pressed on. The person(s) advising you, either don't know the design or they're trying to sell a new shaft. Done competently, and properly machined, it's the perfect repair: permanent, cheap, and effective.

[HStream1]

:icon_bs::icon_bs::icon_bs::icon_bs::icon_bs::icon_bs: look at the F@#$@%g breakdown.

You have posted before on Plasma Spray and you were dead wrong just like you are now. This is the kind of post that leads people in the wrong direction and cost them unnecessary money.The bearings do not press on in the area he is refering to. Plasma spray is good for it's intended purpose but not this.
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/images/HIPERF/809184.98/29.png








I have had Robert do three shafts for me, one my personal boat and two others and they worked perfect. There is no issue with the bearing surface. He fixes the seal area only. Even if the bearing surface needs rehab, there is no problem because the bearing doesn't move(rotate) on the shaft, it's pressed on. The person(s) advising you, either don't know the design or they're trying to sell a new shaft. Done competently, and properly machined, it's the perfect repair: permanent, cheap, and effective.

[GTO GEORGE]

Your illustration says nothing. What's the problem? Make the shaft round, no pits to leak thru, dimensionally the same as new, cheap. You offer no reason, why, in YOUR opinion, it won't work. I've had it done, several times and no issues. You can't believe your eyes?

[HStream1]

Your illustration says nothing. What's the problem? Make the shaft round, no pits to leak thru, dimensionally the same as new, cheap. You offer no reason, why, in YOUR opinion, it won't work. I've had it done, several times and no issues. You can't believe your eyes?

Just keep posting statements like this and the previous ones as well. It will prevent me from responding in the future. This truly defines your lack of ability to understand a breakdown and the operating internals of a lower unit. By By

[wideglide55]

For what its worth I had one repaired and machined and went 95mph for three years and the case is still being run on my old Eliminator

[seansbaja1982]

Here are some before and after pictures of what Robert preforms on the Plasma repair.191647

191648

[HStream1]

No one is saying that seal area(s) can't be repaired using the plasma/spray metal process. We've done it on Ships Steam Turbines carbon seal areas sprayed with Tungston as well as Ceramic with (Great Success!!!), We've even repaired babbit bearings using the Spray metal process (but a babbit bearing doesn't have a contact area once the rotating mass starts spinning). And yes we've even done it on roller/ball bearing areas where the bearing had it's own inner race. BUT never on a base metal bearing race area :nonod:.
The issue as I see it is the area damaged (as posted in this thread) also insludes the pinion bearing area (read post #1) which is a roller bearing race area, the bearing has it's own outter race only. The shaft base metal is the inner race. The bearing that runs there doesn't have it's own inner race like the upper bearing.

I'm very well up on the plasma/metal spray processes as I did R&D with David Taylor Research and Delelopment for the United States Navy before we would use the process on Naval Vessels.

I could go into the whole mechanics of it but I'll just say this. The sprayed material never becomes part of the base metal (like welding). It mearly adhears to a special prepaired machined or grit blasted surface.

Lets just make sure we are compairing Apples to Apples and not Apples to Pomegranetes.

[Fast-Trukin]

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207438 new pictures of old and new drive shaft,post went into wrong section.I was wondering if the old drive shaft was worth anything.Looks like its trash.

[stratos268v]

Is the plasma spray process acceptable for the seal surface of a propshaft?

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=676&pictureid=6138

[HStream1]

Is the plasma spray process acceptable for the seal surface of a propshaft?

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=676&pictureid=6138

Sent you a PM

[GTO GEORGE]

Is the plasma spray process acceptable for the seal surface of a propshaft?

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=676&pictureid=6138Why not? If it can be chucked up in a lathe. it ought to be able to be machined.