Propshaft/Driveshaft repair

[SS170]

Can Sporty shafts be successfully repaired? I have pitting @ the pinion bearing surface and at the rear bearing surface on the propshaft. I've heard of "spray welding" and then turning it down to specs. Is this a correct repair? I know these sporty shafts are hardened and was not sure if this procedure would affect the integrity of the shafts. Anybody have any experience doing this?

[HStream1]

Spray welded surfaces IMO is not a good repair method for needle bearing contact surfaces. They will peel and flake then cause more damage. Spray welded bearing surfaces are acceptable for bearings that have their own hardened race that press or slide on to the surface. Those shafts are made from 613 axle steel and are made from a alloy then heat treated to a specified hardness for those bearings to ride on.

Years ago I have repaired car axles (in a emergency) untill a new alxe could be ordered/purchased. I welded the damaged bearing surface with a Hi tensil alloy rod then turned down to within .010ths. Heated the surface then cooled quickly in a controlled condition carburizing the surface then ground to size. It worked but I would never attampt that on Outboard shafting.

You may get different openions but I'd personally replace the pitted shafting.

[GTO GEORGE]

Plasma build up and turning it to the correct diameter will work fine. Call Robert Saunders @713-771-0095. He'll spray it with a stainless material, that won't rust and is harder than the base metal. Around $150+freight, 1-2 day turn-around, better than new.

[HStream1]

Plasma build up and turning it to the correct diameter will work fine. Call Robert Saunders @713-771-0095. He'll spray it with a stainless material, that won't rust and is harder than the base metal. Around $150+freight, 1-2 day turn-around, better than new.

I normally don't get into a Piss--g contest with S&F members. But :icon_bs:. This suggestion is sending this guy into trouble big time. There is no type of Stainless steel 300 or 400 series that will have the same mechanical properties as those shafts mentioned. Especially for needle bearing contact surfaces. Plasma/metal spray will descintigrate within one hour under operating conditions. (1) you cannot harden 300 series Stainles steel (a non rust/corrosive stainless). But you can harden (nitride) 400 series stainless (a minor rust/corrosive stainless) because it is hardenable due to the mechanical properties (carbon being one) but by attempting to hardening the sprayed area :nonod: it will affect the original shafting mechanical properties (not good):nonod:.

SS170 call the guy and tell him the application in detail etc. Let him tell you personally. If he dissagrees with me then please post it. I'm always man enough to admit when I'm wrong.
A snaped prop/drive shaft at <6k> is not a good thing.

[TEXAS20225]

IS Correct your talking about sealing surface's only this bearing surface is not easily reproduced i know of no one who can do bearing surfaces that is cost effective anywhere and lower units are my business

[GTO GEORGE]

I was thinking mainly about the sealing surfaces that I have had fixed, but the material that was plasma sprayed was so hard that he had to use a tool post grinder to bring it to dimension. Call Robert, he's an expert machinist and will give you straight talk.

[HStream1]

I was thinking mainly about the sealing surfaces that I have had fixed, but the material that was plasma sprayed was so hard that he had to use a tool post grinder to bring it to dimension. Call Robert, he's an expert machinist and will give you straight talk.

Read Post #1, he clearly mentioned nothing about sealing surfaces, Only Bearing Surfaces? I'm sure you had good intentions.

Happy New Year!!

[GTO GEORGE]

The hardness of the drive shaft shouldn't make any difference, to the bearing, as it is pressed on the shaft bearing suface. There is no roller contact with the shaft. Fixing the bearing surface is no diff than the sealing surface.

[TEXAS20225]

Two bearings on the drive shaft upper which has a race, lower the race is in the housing and rollers make full 360 degree contact with drive shaft at all times also there are two bearings on prop shaft, rollers making full contact at all times one in carrier one inside forward gear:cool::cool::cool:

[HStream1]

Two bearings on the drive shaft upper which has a race, lower the race is in the housing and rollers make full 360 degree contact with drive shaft at all times also there are two bearings on prop shaft, rollers making full contact at all times one in carrier one inside forward gear:cool::cool::cool:

:iagree: 100%. Maybe this will help others to understand, see diagrams below.
In the first diagram Drive shaft and housing Pc 29 & 27 have their own races (upper Drive shaft bearings) Pc 6 has no inner race, needle bearings make full contact to the shaft bearing surface. In the second diagram Gear Housing and prop shaft pcs 59 & 74 (needle bearings) don't have their own inner races because the needles ride directly on the shaft bearing area.

Hope this helps.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/IMAGES/HIPERF/811505.96/23.png

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/IMAGES/HIPERF/811505.96/26.png

[Way2slow on H2O]

Hey Bobby, you can't weld it with your NEW Miller TIG???? With as many welding certifications as you got, I bet the sky's the limit now especially with that new state-of-the-art 1 gazillion pulses per second super hi frequency rig with the custom "hot foot" pedal :thumbsup:

[TEXAS20225]

are not feasible and Mercs mystery material on there journals is not on my hard drive and it along with my photographic memory is at this time IE: hard drive is full and camera it's out of film :iagree: my mind is not as quick as yours these days by the way that was some good info you left me with last nite thanks :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:BOBBY V

[TEXAS20225]

yeah Ronnie the handle on the wood incinerator is copy- right protected:D:D:D:D