Need to reseal hull to deck joint

[Liberator*21]

Need some expert advise for my 21' Liberator. I need to reseal the hull to deck joint beneath the Rub Rail. My questions are as follows:

What is the best sealer to use 3M 4200 or 5200 for this job ?
After removal of the Rub Rail how do you prepare the joint for the sealer ?
Best method of re-attaching the RubRail through the sealer ?
Thanks for your input and advise...............:smiletest:

[Stitch King]

I don't remember if the 3M slow cure will sag. You may want to check that before you decide which one. If there's no sag risk, then go with the slow cure as it's properties should be better.

For surface prep, acetone is your friend.

Screws always seem to loosen. I'd go with some top qualiy pop rivets.

BTW, like the holiday avatar...... :)

[Liberator*21]

That avatar put me in the Christmas spirit...........:cheers:

The 4200 is removable and the 5200 is there for keeps. According to the 3M spec sheet the 5200 is stronger and more plyable without breaking it's seal between the joint when any movement occurs. I spoke to Randy (Wildman) as well and he told me how to protect the area above and below the joint when applying the sealer. In my non-expert opinion it sounds like the 5200 would be the way to go........but since I don't know for sure I'm open for info the the experts.

How do you prep the joint for the repair, power tool to open it up a little to accept the sealer or just a pointed tip of a can opener to route out the old stuff ?????????

Thanks,

[Stitch King]

I've used a 90 degree pick to dig out the old stuff.

[Liberator*21]

I've used a 90 degree pick to dig out the old stuff.


Ken,

If I'm reading this right........don't make the joint any bigger, just clean out what I can with a 90 degree pick tool and shop vac of the old stuff then clean the surfaces w/acetone and pump the new sealer into the joint............:confused:

Would I also limit the size opening of the sealer nozzle to attempt to inject as much as possible into the joint :confused:

Thanks,

[Stitch King]

Gary,

Yes you read it correctly. What you don't want to do is pic and dig at the caulk however.

The idea is to hold and pull the pic so it's sliding on one of the surfaces to break the bond. Then go to the other surface and slide/pull that one. The caulk should pull out in strips. If you've ever seen an auto windshield being replaced, it's kind of the same idea here.

I gotta do some caulk work in the next day or two. I'll take a pic of the technique.

Ken

[Liberator*21]

A couple of photos would be great, what ya see is what ya get...........:thumbsup:

[ski racer]

liberator

why dont you just glass it from the inside then you could throu bolt the rub rail use screws or rivits. i did that with my boat takes more time and a little more money but a lot stronger in the long run..


just my thoughts

[Liberator*21]

liberator

why dont you just glass it from the inside then you could throu bolt the rub rail use screws or rivits. i did that with my boat takes more time and a little more money but a lot stronger in the long run..


just my thoughts

Great idea but more than I need, I just need to reseal from mid ship aft.