Chris Carson Reeds

[sschefer]

Fired up the 2.0L for the first time. Came up nice and smooth idled out after reseting the initial timming and getting the idle down to 800rpm's which didn't waver a bit for a good 10 minutes. I had it on my timing light tach so it was accurate. I shut it down after 30 minutes, retorqued the heads, ran a leak down and a compression check and it was perfect.

I fired it back up and let it idle for 5 minutes then spent the next 20 minutes varying rpms up to 2500 and back down. Finally I gave it a couple of minutes in gear in the tank then gave it a couple of good hard rap's in neutral. I was absolutely amazed at how responsive it was. It may be just my imagination but I think it is everybit as responsive as my E-Tech.

The Chris Carson reeds are definitely a player in the way this engine runs now. I'm taking it to the lake tomorrow for more break in. On 20:1 mix I don't expect a lot of anything except smoke but I should be able to feel how Chris's reeds peform under a mild load and will report back on that tomorrow evening.

Here a pic of it on my pig fishing boat after the inital run.
http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr121/sschefer/newengineruns016.jpg

[ChrisCarsonMarine]

Sschefer,thanks for the report,lets see how it runs with a load.Not to critique your break-in,but in my shop we use 35-40/1 fuel/oil mix for the first 8 hours on stock and lightly modded motors,25/1 on more radical motors,turning more rpms.20/1 is a lot of oil,and too much of a good thing isn't always great,I personally don't think you need that much,and i'm pretty much oldschool as you can get on things like clearance and lube.Something some folks don't realize is more oil makes the motor run leaner...more of the gasoline has been replaced with oil,and the thicker fuel/oil mix flows slower through the jets,both contribute to less fuel...leaner.I would also break-in with a straight petroleum oil,and after 20 or so hours go to a blend like pennzoil semi-synthetic.Just my opinions here,but we do build and break-in a lot of motors sucessfully,chris

[scc82]

steve, thats great!! im glad that you like them. ive been following your build on that 2.0, it should be a nice little motor for years to come. good job:thumbsup:. to bad you did not get to run it first, before all the work you did to it so you could see/feel to hard work you put into it.
thanks for the reply:cheers::cheers:
stan carson,

[Riverratt]

Are you running a counter rotating gearcase?

[sschefer]

Sschefer,thanks for the report,lets see how it runs with a load.Not to critique your break-in,but in my shop we use 35-40/1 fuel/oil mix for the first 8 hours on stock and lightly modded motors,25/1 on more radical motors,turning more rpms.20/1 is a lot of oil,and too much of a good thing isn't always great,I personally don't think you need that much,and i'm pretty much oldschool as you can get on things like clearance and lube.Something some folks don't realize is more oil makes the motor run leaner...more of the gasoline has been replaced with oil,and the thicker fuel/oil mix flows slower through the jets,both contribute to less fuel...leaner.I would also break-in with a straight petroleum oil,and after 20 or so hours go to a blend like pennzoil semi-synthetic.Just my opinions here,but we do build and break-in a lot of motors sucessfully,chris

Thanks Chris, that 20:1 mix was just in a 6 gal aux tank for the first 1/2 hour on the hose with no extended high revs. For the on the water break in I'm running 35:1 in the main tank and I plan on thining that down to 50:1 over time with fresh fuel as I burn it off. If fuel consumption goes to plan I'll be at 50:1 in about 8 hours. I've had about 5 gals of gas in the 20gal tank that had Penzoil synthetic in it so about 13 gals have Quicksilver blend.

As a side note the Merc break in procedure for this motor say's to run 50:1 in the gas tank and with the oil injection at 50:1 that makes 25:1. In reality, it's probably more like about 35:1 since the oil pumps speed is determined by engine RPM and pretty good but not 100% accurate by any means. My oil injection is sitting on a shelf in the shop doing what it does best, taking up space.

[sschefer]

Are you running a counter rotating gearcase?

Nope that's just the prop for the ramp tune up that I'm doing today. I got it for free and figured it was easier to use that then cutting down an old aluminum 17 I had laying around. I'll let you know how it works out.

[sschefer]

steve, thats great!! im glad that you like them. ive been following your build on that 2.0, it should be a nice little motor for years to come. good job:thumbsup:. to bad you did not get to run it first, before all the work you did to it so you could see/feel to hard work you put into it.
thanks for the reply:cheers::cheers:
stan carson,

Thank you Stan, your right, I wish I could have heard it run before but when I saw the aluminum build up on #1 plug I figured it was best not to test fate;). The rap I heard yesterday that sounded somewhere between my old hyped up YZ-250 and one of my old rat motors was pretty darn gratifying.:D I wish I had a digital video camera with sound, you'd have been impressed.

[Superbender]

glad your motor is running good but could you explain the left hand prop thing?

[sschefer]

Left hand prop === didn't work.. I thought it might be a cool way to run the engine up on the ramp and on the trailer without stressing the transom. Didn't work, hardly any load a all. It was a freebie.. it's a 14x17 Merc Vengance.

[Raceman]

You should NEVER run the wrong rotation prop on a gearcase. Gearcases (with the exception of the Bravo) are designed to be loaded ONLY in one direction.

[sschefer]

After reading Chris's post I drained my tank and put fresh gas and a 40:1 mix of Quicksilver blend then went to the lake.

I ran it for about 2 minutes and it started wheezing, (no sneeze, just a wheeze). Took me a couple of seconds to realize that I had drained the tank completely and the fuel lines were full of air. I fixed that.

She smoked like all get out for about 15 minutes then cleared up and settled in. I set the carbs up to idle a 1/4 turn on the rich side, checked max advance (19) at 3000 and set the idle to 750 then launched her.

I found 1800 rpm to be a sweet spot. Poppet was open and temp stable at 145. I ran between that and 2500 for 2 of the most anxious hours of my life. I ran it briefly up to 5000 and hit 44 on the GPS with a 14x19 prop. Throttle response was excellent from idle all the way up. All RPM changes weres done smoothly up and back down.

The Carson's reeds seem to be working very well. Making Minor changes in RPM was very controllable and rapid changes at the controls were very responsive. Engine raps nicely and of course I had to rap it a couple of times at the dock just the get the Yamaha owners attention. It turned his head and this thing is running fully stock exhaust!

I'm so happy with the way this engine is running and it's not even broken in yet. And it's not just because of the work I did but because it really seems to run exceptionally well. Amazing what can happen when you have great advisors.

Thanks to all

Steve

[Riverratt]

How high are you reving it in neutral? Those "raps" are hard on the motor.

[sschefer]

How high are you reving it in neutral? Those "raps" are hard on the motor.
Wasn't watching the needle bounce but I'm pretty conservative when I rap. Maybe I hit 1/4 throttle max. You have to be pretty quick to get the proper effect. A rap is not WOT or at least it shouldn't be if your engine is running right.

I guess the fact that I can get a quick short rap that sounds great is another testament to Chris Carson's reeds.

[mirage243]

Oh boy............................subscribed again.

[sschefer]

You should NEVER run the wrong rotation prop on a gearcase. Gearcases (with the exception of the Bravo) are designed to be loaded ONLY in one direction.

Yep, not only that but it pushes all the water away from the pickups and cooling goes to heck quick. I ran it for all of about 15 seconds and pulled it.