mercury 2.0 vs merc Bridgeport

[ski racer]

hello, i have a 19' eliminator liberty with a mercury xr2 150 all stock runs great just want more power. with my current set up weight is an issue i am wondering the weight of this motor compared to a Bridgeport motor and if it is better to build up on this 2.0 or go for the 2.4 this motor is in very good shape very low hours i am only 2nd owner in 23 years. Relieability is al so key to me any input would be appriciated.
thanks

[Dave Strong]

If you get a EFI Bridgeport you gain 100 HP.

[ski racer]

what is the displacement of a BP. how is its relieability, hrs per power head ect. comps parts avilibiity and pro and cons of carb vs efi horse power diff there thanks

[Dave Strong]

what is the displacement of a BP. how is its relieability, hrs per power head ect. comps parts avilibiity and pro and cons of carb vs efi horse power diff there thanks

2.4L, EFI=240 hp, Carb=220 hp. Some like them some don't, I like mine EFI, been relieable. Similar to 2.5 for time between rering etc, top pinned pistons now available. Been told the bridged exhast port tend to crack, most electronics are same as 2.5. Ecu's and tps are hard to find, but figure Brucato's system is much better than stock and on my wish list. Just my take, sure you will get somemore opinions
Dave:smiletest::thumbsup:

[Dd24skater]

Alomost 2x the power but.......2x the fuel plus more oil

[pyro]

Weight is about the same. Maybe less with no steel sleeves?

Night and day difference across the board. Typically 1.87 gears instead of 2:1 like the 150 has. You can prop down to a lower pitch and spin the hell out of it, the acceleration will really moisten your panties. Instead of flattening out at 6000 rpm, it's more like 7500. It's nice to cruise around on a 22 or 24 pitch prop, and still be in reach of the mid 80's within a few of seconds' stab of the throttle.

Agreed on the Brucato EFI-- An excellent plug-and-play upgrade that eliminates the quirky TPI electronics, and improves fuel economy and response across the board. I have my limiter (which richens fuel mix) set at 7500, and it still pulls a 22 to 8100 rpm.

Make the upgrade, you won't be sorry.

[Bruce Washburn]

The 2.O L is about as close to bullet proof as you can get. It is also pretty good on gas.
The bridge port are 142 ci vs 120ci for the 2.0. I would guess that the Brigeport will weigh about 10-15 lbs less.
Bridgeport Problems. The bridges may have a tendancy to swell if the engine has been overheated. Some of the pistons used had locating pin problems. (The new wizard 2.4 pistons should solve that. ) A 2.4 bridgeport will not be as strong as a 2.5 260 but should still be alot more than you will be able to get out of a 2.0 l on that boat. A good nickasil bridgeport is a strong motor for its size.

[wrechin2]

The 2L can be made to have power, just takes alot of work and like stated before...are amost bullet proof. I had a XR2 that would push a 17' glasstream F&S to 68 with a 26 chopper with just heads, piston work, and horizontal front. Porting was stock and was unreal on fuel economy at cruising speeds. The bigger CI engine do make more power with ease. Just my .02....

[bobthebuilder]

Also you can build yourself a killer nice 2.4 200 with a few very nice upgrages very economically..... That's if your budget is limited. I know I got one on mine now and am building another one that will be very awsome when I get done with it this winter....T-Rex can give ya a lot of good info in it too if you decide to go 2.4 200... He has a post in here somewhere about the Cherry Lil Motor all about the 2.4 motas...

[wrechin2]

It is over on byuboyz.....

[tlwjkw]

http://www.byuboyz.com/trex/Cherry2.4.htm

[bobthebuilder]

If ya decide to build a 2.4 200 I can probably help ya some. I have built many of the motors before and have several in storage dissembled. Got some cheap parts laying around if ya need em. I use them for parts motors but could probably dig up a complete one in there if I really tried. I only have one with all good chrome bores though and I am building it right now with most of the mods T-Rex used on th Cherry Lil Mota ... I am keeping compression down to like 135 or so by only slightly millin the heads some. Doing all the cooling mods as all the 2.4's needed that anyway. Doin the reeds and carbs right & some mild exhaust chest work and got a LU pre load one with a Bob's LWP cone on there. It will be a extremely nice one when finished up. It's goinna be a nice un !!

[ski racer]

Thank you all for you info and input. I am diffenity on a buget. and may buy a 2.4 200 or building my 2.0 to more realistic. Is the figer porting difficult to do? what kind of tooling is used to do that? could you use a drimel. If i were to build the 2.0 and, fingerport, EXT tunner, mill heads, and stacks what kind of hp gain would i see.

thanks.

[Dave Strong]

Thank you all for you info and input. I am diffenity on a buget. and may buy a 2.4 200 or building my 2.0 to more realistic. Is the figer porting difficult to do? what kind of tooling is used to do that? could you use a drimel. If i were to build the 2.0 and, fingerport, EXT tunner, mill heads, and stacks what kind of hp gain would i see.

thanks.

Do search on adding hp to fishing engine's, wouldn't port your self, leave that to the professional builders. To easy to turn it into junk if you screw it up. Few years ago knew a guy that made some good tuners, 3 different ones one 3 race motors no top end gains but noticable gain in mid range. But he's not doing it any more, never tried others tuners.
Dave

[Capt.Insane-o]

Go with a 2.4 or a 2.5. A 2.0 can be made to make big numbers but it takes a ton of work, not to mention spinning it 9,000 rpm.

[ski racer]

Building on the 2.0 seems like it could be problematic compared to a 2.4. for i can start with more h.p. and i would need to spin more RPM and have more compression. Could i mount a 2.4 power head on my mid section with a differend adapter plate? What would the machine work cost to have the block and pistons ported. and any body use a bob machine tunner.
thanks

[pyro]

You can use the stock adapter. A 2.4 200 should bolt right up. Bridgeports and other race motors will require an adapter swap and/or cowling upgrade to make the cooling system flow correctly.

Don't bother with the bolt-on's like the tuner, they won't help you unless you're doing a whole set of mods in perfect harmony: Intake, compression, porting, exhaust cut, and tuner. Motors done like that tend to have rather short lives.

My motor is a 2.4 200 trim bracket/leg/adapter/tuner/stock liner, with a Bridgeport EFI powerhead and a 2.5 260 cowling transplanted onto it. The powerhead is stock, with thick (200hp) head gaskets yielding 115 psi compression. I run 87 octane pump gas and turn 7500-8000 rpm. It doesn't run hot enough to break the bridges or work pins loose. I'm more concerned with longevity than performance, but this motor doesn't disappoint me when I stab the throttle. :D

[shawn911]

ok guys here are the numbers thanks for any info on this motor.block 01939913,front 969-9078-01,carbs374-5427,intake 96770,heads15221-c1,mid oc290021,and also motor is12/3/91

[ski racer]

Pyro,

I like the idea of your set up and also think if i build on my 2.0 it could be short lived. I want reliability. what does a running or not 2.4 efi go for on here. if i went that route i could use my stock lower and mid with an adapter plate right.

[pyro]

I spent $2700 a few years ago for a re-built powerhead. $2500-$3200 seems to be typical, but that was then-- It's all about supply and demand...

[bobthebuilder]

You can sell your 2.0 easily to someone for a fishin boat motor who just wants a nearly bullet proof dependable motor. A 2.4 in very good condition needing nothing can be bought here and there for something like 2,000 to 2,500 and you could get most of that for the 2.0 if it is a real nice one.. Just be careful and dont buy any junk or otherwise if you know how and build one yourself then you know what it is inside!! And hey my 2.4 200 was tested a foew months ago on a dyno and calculated out to 218 hp.. And it is bone stock with one steel sleeve in it. I have had my 18ft Ranger Bass Boat to hit 78 on a gps with only myself int it and conditions pretty near perfect but thats rockin for what it is! Just my 2 cents!

[Capt.Insane-o]

There is not much more reliable than a properly built 2 liter. RPM for RPM they will long out live a 2.4 or 2.5. But driveability comes into play, there is no replacement for displacement.

[ski racer]

I can see a few ppl have there own opinions mild 2.4 or built2.0. The 2.0 i have is extremly clean and i would like keep it so maybe mild build on the 2.0 or fild a blown up 2.4 and bild on it I have build a few omc yama and 1 merc. so i feel fine building just not supeer knowelegeable on high perf and what works and what doesnt. 2.0 mild mods any bodys .02

[Dave Strong]

I think sorta as Pyro, my EFI BP I only spin to 71-7300 rpm, with out port work they make peak hp in that range. I do have 140psi heads, tuner, and a few other mods but all to add power within the stock rpm range. The heads made a huge difference as the Bridgeports were originaly made to run on 86 octaine. May be wrong but dont think increasing the compression to run on 92 will hurt the bridge's, I hope. The tuner did make a noticable difference not so much in top end. A real noticable gain from 4500-6000rpm. I hope to run it for many more hours there aren't alot of all nic moters left.
Dave

[wrechin2]

There are alot of opinions. The 2.0L is a very good dependable engine but can not make the numbers of the bigger CI. I have built many of all 3. Guess it is what is in your budget. Like captain said, no replacement for displacement.

[ski racer]

I am diffenitly on a tight buget only 18 so not a ton of extra money, if i added a tuner, milled my heads, rejeted and put stacks on it. what kinda of power would i gain. I can spin 6000 with a 22 chopper now with 3 ppl in the boat. but hole shot sucks.
thanks

[bobthebuilder]

Just in case you might want it I do have a couple good 2.0 L blocks. One is exceptionally nice. Just hone & go. It supposed to be a 1998 and has a matching horizontal front 1/2 with the 4 pedal reeds on rubber blocks. It's what the guys search for when they build the 2.0 motors to turn high rpm's and make a lot of power.... I also have a very nice set of WV carbs with it and still have the center mains for it. In fact I do also have a good crank but was planning to put it in another 2.0 block thats a older motor but originally was a 2.0 175 hp. If oyu need any of this I can help you maybe???:confused:

[bobthebuilder]

Oh yea forgot to mention I have rods and used pistons but I always like to use new pistons. I have rod bearing that are still good but I also like new one of those too. I believe in building em to stay there. That 175 2.0 L block will have to be bored on a couple holes for sure but it will make a very nice lil motor... I have the rest of the motors except no heads for that 1998 motor as it requires dowled heads which I used on another motor last year!

[wrechin2]

The one in my avitar is s 86 XR2 that had 30cc heads, piston work done, horizontal front, and stock porting. The only reason it had stacks was so I didn't have to change the cowl. It pushed a 17' glasstream to 68 GPS pulling a 26 chopper to 6K and had a STRONG hole SHOT.

The late model block Bob has would be a great foundation. It would require a crank that has a shoulder on the center mains. You can use your rods and pistons out of the 2.0L have now or just find a horizontal front and convert and use all you have now. I have built many 2.0L ported to 1.600 (the old 175 specs) and they run VERY well. The 2.0L mod link under my name was ported to 1.575 and was still very stong out of the hole.I have one for me ported to 1.525. I just need to put it together. I guess I am like bob. I am putting together engines just to make space!!!!!!! I always liked the fact that most of the time the 2.0L stuff is relatively easy to come by and ususally cheap. On a good hull they can be impressive. But not as impressive as a 2.4 or 2.5. I just built a highly modified 2.5 and I am putting it on a friends 19' bullet while we do the mentioned mods to his 2.0L. He may not want to go with the 2.0L after he sees the differnce between the 2. I may have to give up one of my other blocks to him!!!!!

If money is a issue. Spend it on what you have and save for the bigger engine if not happy. There is a 2.4 200 front 1/2 and intake in misc parts for $150. It along with some light porting and cut heads will show you a modest increase. Sent the horizontal front to me and I will mill it down for you , just pay for shipping both ways. This will help the bottom end and midrange some. I know it get confusing as to what to do with so many opinions. I hope I don't clutter your mind up more!!

Do a search for modifing the 2.0L. You will find alot.

Here is one for starters of how a "litle" is "alot"

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186931

[ski racer]

Little or nothing. Maybe you missed this part in my post above:



To be more specific, if you're on a budget, and you can't afford to waste money on gimmicks that don't work, don't bother with ANY of those bolt-ons. You could spend hundreds on all that garbage and hours installing, but it would be a waste. The 150 XR2 already has all the effective bolt-on upgrades over the regular 150, and it only amounts to 10 or 12 extra HP and a couple hundred more RPM. There isn't anything much more you can do with that motor, besides doing the more radical block porting/cutting and compression mods, which will drastically reduce longevity and drain your wallet, and they won't do a heavy boat any justice-- As Capt insane-O said, you have to spin them over 9000 rpm to make the race motor numbers, and they only really work on light race boats because those mods KUILL the bottom-end and midrange power. Save your money for a better motor. Stock motors LIVE LONGER. Find a good 2.4 or 2.5 200, and sell/swap out your powerhead. If they're still stock and running good, they have good resale value as trade toward a true upgrade.

I find it hard to believe that a 22 Chopper isn't getting you out of the hole. What boat are you running this on? If you can't turn a 22 over 6000, you're not going to see more without a bigger motor. ;)




our ideas of good hole shot could differ, it does fine with 2-3 ppl in it but 2-4 ppl and pulling a skier, its a bit of a drag. but 6 maybe 6100 but no more.


not sure of the weight here is a pic for an idea

[ski racer]

The one in my avitar is s 86 XR2 that had 30cc heads, piston work done, horizontal front, and stock porting. The only reason it had stacks was so I didn't have to change the cowl. It pushed a 17' glasstream to 68 GPS pulling a 26 chopper to 6K and had a STRONG hole SHOT.

The late model block Bob has would be a great foundation. It would require a crank that has a shoulder on the center mains. You can use your rods and pistons out of the 2.0L have now or just find a horizontal front and convert and use all you have now. I have built many 2.0L ported to 1.600 (the old 175 specs) and they run VERY well. The 2.0L mod link under my name was ported to 1.575 and was still very stong out of the hole.I have one for me ported to 1.525. I just need to put it together. I guess I am like bob. I am putting together engines just to make space!!!!!!! I always liked the fact that most of the time the 2.0L stuff is relatively easy to come by and ususally cheap. On a good hull they can be impressive. But not as impressive as a 2.4 or 2.5. I just built a highly modified 2.5 and I am putting it on a friends 19' bullet while we do the mentioned mods to his 2.0L. He may not want to go with the 2.0L after he sees the differnce between the 2. I may have to give up one of my other blocks to him!!!!!

If money is a issue. Spend it on what you have and save for the bigger engine if not happy. There is a 2.4 200 front 1/2 and intake in misc parts for $150. It along with some light porting and cut heads will show you a modest increase. Sent the horizontal front to me and I will mill it down for you , just pay for shipping both ways. This will help the bottom end and midrange some. I know it get confusing as to what to do with so many opinions. I hope I don't clutter your mind up more!!

Do a search for modifing the 2.0L. You will find alot.

Here is one for starters of how a "litle" is "alot"

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186931



thanks, i will check it out can yoy post a pic of a horizontal front so i could see the difference. what applications came with the horizontal fronts. thank you again for your offer just might need to take you up.

[pyro]

I had a stock 150 XR2 on a 17' Baja, and it wouldn't even plane with 4 passengers and a skier. :p

[wrechin2]

My 17' glasstream fish and ski with 5 adults and a 25 trophy copy would still only take 2 boat lenths to come out of the hole and GPS 63-64 with no problem. Set up and props make the world of differences. The 26 was better for top end the 4 blade carried the load better.

[wrechin2]

Here is one I just cut .050 for a 2.5 I just built this past weekend. Looks identical to what you need.

[T-REX]

If U gunna stick wit tha 2liter, and gunna go into it, cut fingerports in it(1'2" X 1-1/2") , go to tha horz front, add a 1-1/2" spacer(between manifold and front half), leeve intake STOCK!!, ruff up the whole intake tract with a 1/4X20 tak in a dremmel, redirect the exhaust down(DON'T hog out the back, juss direct flow down)...Juss raise the port's .020 or so, match finger ports to ports in pistons(U have to drill FP's in pistons), "D" port pistons, Use tha BIG rods(Yo mota should have them, they help stuff block for need'd low end..)...Stuff block wher ever possible(wher oiler wuz, and leeve oil geer in place)...Cut .050 off the front ov front half!!...U also kan use small venturi carbs for good bottom end, but will limit your rpmto around 6500-6800....U use a 2:1 geer and a good 4 blade prop, and it will pull stumps!!!...JMO:thumbsup:

[wrechin2]

There is some solid advice from the 2.0L king!!! This is what he is talking about on the oil gear. #2 has alot more volume than the other 5. This will even it out. You will want to fill in the oil gear asrea as shown and the front half where the gear is also.

[T-REX]

NICE JOB WRENCH'IN!!:thumbsup:

[frankydee]

you got any pictures of the "puttyed up version" and what do you use again?

[wrechin2]

Of the front 1/2???? here is the front. I used aluminox. It seems to do very well. Most people use pig putty.

[ski racer]

Wenchin and t rex thanks for your all your knowlege. I have takin in a lot of info and am think to make power from my 2 ltr no doubt gonna need to open it up do some machine work and pump up its compression i fell in doing so i will losse so turn key so my thought is keep my 2.0 stock and find a blown up 2.4 PH build on that and have 2 PH thus always a back up. The 2.4 will fit with an adapter plate? right,
thanks

[Way2slow on H2O]

Your best bet is a 2.5 for that hull= "more bang for the buck"

If you can find a '91/92 2.5 200 block it'll already have the "layed back" exhaust. :thumbsup:

[wrechin2]

Yes a 2.4 or 2.5 will bolt right up.

2.5 is a better more efficient design. Dollar for dollar the 2.5 is the better choice. Would spend about the same on either engine. Alot can be done to a 2.5. I just got done with one and it is ALOT stronger and getting 1.5 MPG better economy at cruising speed. It doesn't have to work as hard due to more power. Going saturday to "dial" it in. It is very rich at idle. So it may go up even more on fuel mileage since it is rich.

96-up 2.5 200's will also have the pro max exhaust. The 150's still have the "small 2.4 exhaust". (at least a 98 does) Don't know about the 175's. I built 2 96 200's in the last month had the PM chest and I just had to port a 98 150hp to 200 specs and it had the small exhaust. I have a 2000 200 and a 2001 240 and they have the PM chest.

[wrechin2]

Thanks T!!!!!!

[bobthebuilder]

Wrechin, I been building bone stock motors for 30 years No mods. So tell me what I will notice if I stuff a 2.4 200 block and possably cut front .050.... What does it do to idling and what does it do to to the rpm range between 700 and 2100>>> Thats where I find the 2.4 200 motors weakest at. Then at 2100 or so they come alive big time like a dragster. Also if the front half gets milled .050 does it need more compression by cutting heads or can I still run stock un cut at 125 comp. ??? Running em on a bass boat for fishing not racing but always buy at least 89 oct. gas and sometimes 93 oct. Oh yea I also would like to see a pic of a cross drilled intake for a 2.4 200. And what advantages does it give??

[bobthebuilder]

Them pure stock motors are becomming boring..... Got to have some fun din some mods to em now.. I am building a 2.4 200 now with all 6 holes good chrome. Sort of following T-rex cherry lil mota format... But dont want to do things that will make it too much modified to use on a bass boat.

[bobthebuilder]

Also where do ya get that Aluminox stuff? I am definately gonna do the place where oil inject pump was removed... I definately want it same volume as the other cyls.

[wrechin2]

Shaving the front helps bottom and midrange. I haven't noticed any idle quality issues. ALL the engines I build are for bass boats. I always shave the heads and run cut fronts. If you deal with OMC X-flows, it is very similar to the stuffers behind the reeds. They are there to help the bottom end loss from higher porting. I have only on the last 3 stuffed them. I have had good luck so far. Will run mine saturday and let ya know. I stuff the 2.5's because I cut material out of the blocks, so I have to replace it to keep the volumetric efficency up.

[wrechin2]

I order it from one of my suppliers. It retails for $15 a tube. Takes about 2 tubes to stuff the front and fill in the gear. Most people use pig putty, you get 6 tubes for $36. Do a search for it.

[bobthebuilder]

OK thanks. I am gonna stuff the next one I build and cut the front. I have access to a milling machine and have 2 years in my younger days as a aprentice machinist. Did you use a wide swing fly cutter to mill the front?

[wrechin2]

I made a face mill out of a shell mill. Works very well. It is lighter than my 5" face mill I use on heads. I built a plexiglass surround around the mill to contain the shavings. It does very well and catches 98% of the shavings.

[frankydee]

I made a face mill out of a shell mill. Works very well. It is lighter than my 5" face mill I use on heads. I built a plexiglass surround around the mill to contain the shavings. It does very well and catches 98% of the shavings.
what speed are you running that at

[wrechin2]

I run the head at around 1,300 witha slow feed rate. It keeps from havig to use lubricant on it and the finish is VERY smooth.

[bobthebuilder]

Thanks, this really helps me a lot. My friend who owns a mill (and a whole machine shop) has a shell mill and cuts outboard heads with it for me now, so Iwill just use it on my front 1/2..... Again, thanks!

[wrechin2]

No problem. .050 is as far as I cut without worry of clearance. I have heard of being cut alot more. It just starts getting close to the bleeders.