2.4 efi 220 to rich at idle

[sprint275]

I have a 200 efi motor (stock) that seems to load up after idling for a short period of time. This is a new to me motor (with a fresh rebuild) but not a new problem with it. A buddy of mine had it on his boat with it doing the same thing. When you first start it seems to run fine. Example, yesterday i left the ramp, ran for about 2-3 miles WOT and it seemed to be ok except for the sluggish holeshot. (I had a 200 carb motor with the same setup on it before. It would leap out of the hole.) I idled into a bay for a minute or two and back out to the main channel, hammered it and it would not pull over 1800 rpm. I then kicked it neutral reved it to around 2000 for a bit, let it clean out(smoking like crazy) put it back in gear and it took off. Repeated this two more times.
When I got it home i put it on the hose ran it until it warmed back up and pulled the plugs. All of them were unusually soaked with fuel. With that being said here is what has been replaced and or checked,
Coil packs all check in spec
both boxes replaced with known good ones
ecu replaced with a "digital one" says 200 on the side of it. The original one had the same issues.
Injectors checked
Throttle position sensor replaced
air temp sensor replaced
new plugs and fuel pressure is around the 39 psi spec. I think they replaced the pump.
The only thing i can find in the Mercury manuel i have that says anything about flooding is the float in the vapor canister may be sunk. Or i guess it could be the needle and seat not sealing. Could this be the issue or shold i look elsewhere?
I would like to keep this one as an efi if it will run. If not i have a blown 200 carb motor that may donate some parts.
I usually find the answer to my troubles by searching this forum. You have been a wealth of knowledge in the past.

[fastoldskeeter]

hey i am new but i might need the carbs off your 200 if i find out if they will work on my 150 2.4.oh and if you want 2 sell them.

[infiniti383]

check for vacuum leaks. and also how were the injectors checked? did you send them to brucato? also those older ecus love to load up at idle. they just love it.

[sprint275]

Just about thrown about everything at this one. Thought it was fixed a couple of times. Good strong motor from 2500 on up. LOUD, draws a little to much attention just idling. I may drop a can back in it.
I assume the shop it came would have sent them to Brucato. (Lets just say they know each other) I will ask. They are sending out another Vapor canister/pump assy. It is the only thing that is physically left to swap out. I am going to try that before I do anything else.
I have only had the carb versions of the 2.4's before. So i am now on a re-learn curve.
So the Stock ECU has issues. It is the later model (digital) ecu not the original unit. Worth the 950 for the Brucato unit I would guess. This is not or ever will be a race motor. Just a fishin motor.

[infiniti383]

isnt it crazy how you cna replace just about everything and get nowhere. I myself have just gone throught the transformation from carbs to efi. it can be a total nightmare. I feel your pain. as far as the brucato acu is concerned, it is very adjustable and it also only uses the air temp sensor, eliminating other potentialy problematic sensors. also the digital merc boxes are better than the analog. also remember this,.... just because the injectors were checked and cleaned doesnt mean they were adjusted to optimal performance. trust me. i bought a motor that had the injectors serviced but never adjusted. nnot long after theservicing they took a **** and all started flooding. had they been adjusted and tuned this would not have happened.

[jgiroux]

have you checked the knock sensor that is located on the port head if shorted would richen fuel mixture my old 200 efi motors had them on it

[sprint275]

have you checked the knock sensor that is located on the port head if shorted would richen fuel mixture my old 200 efi motors had them on it

This one has had that removed. Only thing left on it is the idle stabilizer box. Also the timing advance boxes are gone. I have one seen one motor of this age with those still on it. I assume they were a problem. None of the carb motors i have been around had the advance boxes. We just gave them a little more WOT timing.

[shooter1]

Welcome to the board. First of all if you put a digital box off of a 200 2.5 EFI it is going to be rich throughout the whole fuel curve. The 220 2.4 EFI will need an analog box to run right or a Brucato ACU. As to the idle being rich you have to adjust the TPS till it runs right. I start with .135V and go from there. More voltage = more fuel or rich mixture. You have to disconnect the coolant temp sensor on the port head to adjust the TPS properly. It is very touchy and will change when you tighten the screws so be patient and get it right. These are pretty good motors as I have 2 boats with them on them. I don't run detonation modules or high low speed stabilizer boxes on either of them. I st the WOT timing to 23* at cranking and what ever the motor wants to idle @ 1050 on the hose with the butterflies closed. Hope this helps.

Shooter1

[sprint275]

Welcome to the board. First of all if you put a digital box off of a 200 2.5 EFI it is going to be rich throughout the whole fuel curve. The 220 2.4 EFI will need an analog box to run right or a Brucato ACU. As to the idle being rich you have to adjust the TPS till it runs right. I start with .135V and go from there. More voltage = more fuel or rich mixture. You have to disconnect the coolant temp sensor on the port head to adjust the TPS properly. It is very touchy and will change when you tighten the screws so be patient and get it right. These are pretty good motors as I have 2 boats with them on them. I don't run detonation modules or high low speed stabilizer boxes on either of them. I st the WOT timing to 23* at cranking and what ever the motor wants to idle @ 1050 on the hose with the butterflies closed. Hope this helps.

Shooter1

Thanks of the welcome and advice. I have been around the board for a while. Most of the time i can get the answers just by searching. I know i would get tired of answering the same question over and over.
I will have to ask the guy i got it from which ecu was on it the day it was spraying fuel so much you could see a mist in the air around the intake. It was waaay rich. I set the WOT timing to 23. Should the idle timing be set to 9 atdc? Or is another number prefered?
It would set and idle all day long if ya let it. idles around 900-950 on the hose 750- 800 in the water in gear. It is just that when you nail it, it falls on it's face and won't pull(like it is flooded). Let out it and it goes back to idle. Rev it till it cleans out and it will run fine from 3000 on up to 5800. One thing is does do that i have not seen is it has a sneezing issue when you let out of it(rev it to 2500 let back out, sneeze)I have had the carb motors have sneeze issues but usually after idling for a while.
I was suspect of the TPS setting and how touchy it might be. I will check that also.
Thanks

[shooter1]

My experience when it falls on it's face it is usually lean on idle. Both of my motors are right around 0* . I boat @ 4,000' MSL also.

Shooter1

[sprint275]

Swapped the entire vapor canister assy pump and all. Runs like it is suppose to now(at least on the hose). I did reset the TPS as you suggested. Seemed to smooth out a little more. Not that these motors idle smooth. Smoked like normal on cold start and cleared up after it warmed up and the plugs look alot better. I am running 40:1 premix so it doesn't go away completely but it is not fogging like it was. I guess tme will tell but i think this one is fixed. I will try to dump it the water Saturday.:thumbsup:
Thank you to Paul, best customer service i have ever seen!:cheers:

[Alan Power]

How did you get on?

[sprint275]

How did you get on?

Sorry about the late reply. Been a little busy.

It did have fuel delivery issues. Seafoam took care of most of it. Still didn't cure all of it's ailments.

That motor has a Voltage issue. I installed a volt gauge and found that when it falls to 12 from approx 13.5 it starts missing. Example running the trim pump. It was running great leaving the ramp. Got the boat on top and hit the trim and it almost died. Let it idle(fast idle)until I had 13 on the gauge and it runs on all cylinders again.

I wonder the Laser had a differant stator than what is on it(more amps, recover quicker). Were these motors picky about voltage? Or am i just lucky!

I have not had time to mess with it for a while. I am still back to the "I don't know" at this point. It will most likly have a set of carbs on it before spring. I hate to do that but.....:confused: