View Full Version : OMC Tech evinrude v8 lower removal?
hydroViper235
07-22-2009, 04:44 PM
i went to pull the lower, and feels like the shifter is stuck or something. am i missing a step. its free it just wont pull out more than 2"?
hydroViper235
07-22-2009, 06:03 PM
does anyone know?
BigJohnson
07-22-2009, 06:10 PM
Did you take the screw out for the shift lever at the base of the powerhead in the pan?
STV_Keith
07-22-2009, 06:10 PM
Did you unbolt the shift rod from the lever? 3/8" bolt with a long nose under the carbs.
hydroViper235
07-22-2009, 06:53 PM
:thumbsup:nope, thanks. im new to the rudes
hydroViper235
07-22-2009, 08:32 PM
What do you guys think of welding the bearing carrier? instead of pinning.
STV_Keith
07-22-2009, 09:50 PM
Nope, you want to be able to take it apart later when the gears grenade, or the case gets water in it, or whatever.
Forkin' Crazy
07-22-2009, 11:50 PM
Pin it. Don't bend that shift shaft, it will be more of a bitch to put back on.
I use a long 1/4" extention, a 1/4" drive impact swivel and tape the bolt to the socket to get the bolt back in. You may need a pair of long skinny needle nose pliers to move the shift shaft around. Once you get the hang of them, they aren't that bad.
BigJohnson
07-23-2009, 07:13 AM
The sockets and extensions are best but if you don't have them I believe it is slotted so you can use a screwdriver. The V6 was even worse. I used to drill a hole in the pan to get a long screwdriver thru.
JrCRXHF
07-23-2009, 08:48 AM
Mine was slotted.
Pin the lower so you can take is part later. Plus the heat from the weld can be a issue if they are not careful.
Action Dave
07-23-2009, 09:41 AM
I just remove the pan whenever I drop the gearcase. It just makes the whole thing easier. As for welding the carrier, I have done that too. It takes forever to drill the weld if you ever have to open her up. Stick with the screws. Also, if you ever have any welding done to your gearcase, it's a good idea to pick up a scrap mid section to bolt the case to during welding. Otherwise the case can warp. I have an old sawed-off cross-flow mid at my shop for just that purpose.
hydroViper235
08-18-2009, 04:30 PM
ok guys i got the low water pickup put on, and the lower is back in place with the shifter rod hooked up. the prob now is i cant get it to shift, if i shift it to the rod all the way extended the prop shaft wont spin ether way and if i bump the shift rod down just a hair the prop shaft spins freely. what am i doing wrong?
hydroViper235
08-18-2009, 05:02 PM
how do you know if the lower is out?
markt111
08-18-2009, 06:55 PM
the shift rod has to be set to a very specific lenth...
do you have a manual? it will save you a lot of headaches, I don't know the meaasurement off hand but can get it out of my manual later if know one chimes in
def need to get yourself a manual, can break things otherwise
STV_Keith
08-18-2009, 07:51 PM
Sounds like the shift rod isn't screwed into the case far enough (that's the length adjustment).
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=179001&stc=1&d=1250643417
hydroViper235
08-18-2009, 08:14 PM
thanks
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