Sleeving a 3 cylinder Johnson

[sl!ck]

I am working on a 60 HP johnson that has been .030 and is bad so I was wanting to know how to install sleeves . I am guessing that the cylinders must be bore to make room for the new sleeve . Is this correct? If so how do you secure the sleeve to keep it from rotating in the bore?:confused:

Anybody with this type of experience please let me learn from your expertise!:thumbsup:

Thanks!

[olmo40]

Slick ,

The block has to be heated in order for the old sleeve to be removed and then a new sleeve is pressed in ,basically.

[sl!ck]

Can that be done with a standard oven or is it too hot to do yourself?

[tmoore]

I've done a few sleeves.
I think you will have to bore or cut the old sleeve out. If you heat the block and sleeve they both will expand.

To install the new one you will have to bore the block to the correct size for the new sleeve. Usually to about a .004 interference fit. Then heat the block in an oven to about 450 deg for an hour then take the block out of the oven and quickly slide in the sleeve and line up the ports. You have to be fast because you only get a few seconds until the sleeve heats up and locks in place. Make sure the sleeve is at room temperature, don't try to freeze it or anything. I might know this from experience:rolleyes: The sleeve and block will shock each other and lock down before you get the sleeve half way in.
After you get the sleeve in you get to finish bore it.

[Forkin' Crazy]

The block is aluminum and will expand more than the steel sleeve. If you use an oven, make sure that you don't cook any food in it, unless you like the taste of burned two stroke oil!

But with that said, I have only helped a buddy do looper Vs, not the three cylinders.

[David Borg]

I've done a few sleeves.
I think you will have to bore or cut the old sleeve out. If you heat the block and sleeve they both will expand.

To install the new one you will have to bore the block to the correct size for the new sleeve. Usually to about a .004 interference fit. Then heat the block in an oven to about 450 deg for an hour then take the block out of the oven and quickly slide in the sleeve and line up the ports. You have to be fast because you only get a few seconds until the sleeve heats up and locks in place. Make sure the sleeve is at room temperature, don't try to freeze it or anything. I might know this from experience:rolleyes: The sleeve and block will shock each other and lock down before you get the sleeve half way in.
After you get the sleeve in you get to finish bore it.

That is the proper way of doing it, I have done it but the block needed more than 1 hour in the oven to expand. the sleeve will fall in , then you have about 10 seconds to align the sleeve.

[baja200merk]

ive done a few v6s. cut old sleeve out with sawsall/die grinder, put new sleeve in freezer for a few, heat block in (mom's) oven/grill to around 300* drop new sleeve in, align the ports and allow to cool. I was always told heat it to 400* but they drop in long before 400* if you leave them in the freezer for a while. works for me?

i thought the 3 cyls were loopers :confused:

[scc82]

points to ponder.
1, if it is a cast exhuast the sleeves are removable. if it is a removable exhaust sleeves are cast in and can not be pulled out.
2, wiesco makes .040 piston for it.
3, if you do need to sleeve it heat block to 400 degrees slip out old sleeves, and then slip in new ones. do not freeze the sleeves.

[BarryStrawn]

A 60hp could be either 49 or 56 cube. I believe the 56 can all be heated and the sleeves removed. But the 49 you have to bore the old sleeve out. Check with your sleeve vendor to get the real story.

Finding a replacement block that just needs bored is likely less money.

[scc82]

A 60hp could be either 49 or 56 cube. I believe the 56 can all be heated and the sleeves removed. But the 49 you have to bore the old sleeve out. Check with your sleeve vendor to get the real story.

Finding a replacement block that just needs bored is likely less money.thats right all the later model big bore motors have removable sleeves:thumbsup:

[sl!ck]

This is a 1987 and it looks like the transfer ports are all part of the sleeve so I guess it will need to be bored for the sleeve . I will look for another block this thing has some serious grooves and it's already at .030 so I may be stuck!

[scc82]

87 can be sleeved easy

[sl!ck]

87 can be sleeved easy


So do I dare heat up block and see if the sleeves will come out before I buy sleeves.

[sl!ck]

And if I do will I need to apply any extra force to them to get them moving?

[baja200merk]

cut em out.... i mean uhh ur not allowed to do that... :leaving:

[Forkin' Crazy]

Why don't you just take to a reputable shop to have it put in. I mean, I like doing my own stuff just as much as anyone, but there comes a time when you can loose more than you could gain by screwing things up. ;)

[baja200merk]

Why don't you just take to a reputable shop to have it put in. I mean, I like doing my own stuff just as much as anyone, but there comes a time when you can loose more than you could gain by screwing things up. ;)

:iagree:MAKE SURE its a reputable shop! Cant stress that enough! I gave a guy my block to replace a sleeve back in 03, seemed like a nice guy who knew what he was doing. Well, i built the motor it lasted about 30 hrs before it blew the head gasket and hurt #4 (the sleeve he replaced). After close inspection, he bored the old sleeve out but bored 9 thousandths too deep into the aluminum below the sleeve which the sleeve is supposed to bottom out on:mad:. That allowed the sleeve to sink into the block and pop the head gasket. After that experience i do my own sleeves... Just dont bring it to joe shmo like i did:nonod: and ull be fine :thumbsup:

Kevin