View Full Version : little help please
Image 21
07-06-2009, 08:10 PM
i`ve melted and blown out 6 hubs this year i`m running a trophy plus 26p on a 225 with mad efi @330 hp so i`m told. i have 1.75 gears and can`t keep hubs, any ideas thanks Donnie
Skirace87
07-06-2009, 10:10 PM
Have you tried the metal race hub?
Jay Smith
07-06-2009, 11:08 PM
I've heard of some of the 3 liters thats been modified having trouble with prop hubs. Wonder if somebody has attempted to modify your exhaust and the heat thats coming tru the carrier and the hub is simply too hot taking out those hubs ? How about your water pumps ? Are the housings SS or plastic water pump housing surviving this obvious heat ? Last 3 liter Opti I did was Stainless but still had a weird little nylon looking top seal that I had never seen before..That you had to put on flat with an instillation tool and I bet it wouldn't have took much heat to turn it into a piece of GOO....
just curious,
Jay
Capt.Insane-o
07-06-2009, 11:12 PM
Water pump housings are stainless on these motors. They have issues even in stock form. You can go to a solid hub prop, or divert water via a tube from the cavatation plate into the exhaust passage of the gearcase. OMC/BRP has been doing this for a while now.
Image 21
07-07-2009, 06:16 PM
well i`m melting all my stuff,seals hubs the hole nine.if i go with a racing hub i need to figure out the seals in the lower.its 97 mid that has the releaved exhaust above the plate just wonder if it needs more relief?
Image 21
07-07-2009, 06:17 PM
or pull it all off and put a 300 opti on it
johnnyracer
07-07-2009, 08:36 PM
Dont know if this will help or not but, While I was working for a dealership for a couple years we ran into several 3 liters that were doing the same thing . Turned out to be the exhaust plate had either cracked or corroded through. Found this problem after lots of trouble shooting and coming up with no real reason to be eating hubs. Put on new plates and all was well. Go figure.
Just something to think about
Johnny
Image 21
07-08-2009, 11:37 AM
wow now that is some really good info thanks :cheers:
BoatGoFaster1
07-08-2009, 12:14 PM
here's some more info
Mercury Marine Service Bulletin 96-20
(Updated 08/10/98, originally issued in 1996)
In response to reports of burned propeller hubs and
bearing carrier seal burn-out on 1997 3.0L outboard
engines, Mercury Marine issued a service bulletin
noting that engines operating in the 2000 rpm range
may not receive sufficient water supply to the exhaust
system, resulting in excessive exhaust
temperatures. It was found that the poppet/relief
valve spring has incorrect tension, which doesn't
allow poppet/relief valve to open in this rpm range.
When lower unit is removed, the rubber filler block
will have a burnt appearance.
Involved are 1997 Mercury 225hp & 250hp 3.0L OBs
& 1997 Mercury 225hp Seapro / Marathon 3.0L
engines, s/nos OG438999 -- OG518681
Mercury replaced old parts w/ poppet/relief valve
spring p/n 24-854478 and new gaskets (2) p/n
27-88907. Engines reworked at the factory are
identified w/ an "X" stamped on the engine carton
near the serial number. Dealers are instructed to
paint a white dot on the poppet/relief valve cover.
According to the bulletin, failures were covered under
warranty if they occurred within 1 yr warranty period.
Mercury assigned this condition Failure Code: 618
87. Prop hub failure or lower unit failure due to
bearing carrier seal burn because of faulty spring is
also covered.
also, look at http://my.boatus.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47566
Image 21
07-08-2009, 07:55 PM
also great info thanks :cheers: that`s one thing i have never checked since i bought this motor
Image 21
07-20-2009, 07:32 PM
any other ideas, ordered popet valve rebuild kit for my rig checked all my exhuast stuff and all looks good
Image 21
07-20-2009, 07:34 PM
Water pump housings are stainless on these motors. They have issues even in stock form. You can go to a solid hub prop, or divert water via a tube from the cavatation plate into the exhaust passage of the gearcase. OMC/BRP has been doing this for a while now.
how would i go about diverting water into the lower for the exhuast,have you seen this done on mercs or have any pics thanks Donnie
flabum1017
07-20-2009, 07:49 PM
Wasn't there another bulliten on those about them having a single hose off the thermos and modifying them to twin hose?
Image 21
07-21-2009, 03:48 PM
Wasn't there another bulliten on those about them having a single hose off the thermos and modifying them to twin hose?
not sure bout that one have`nt had any cooling problems with the head.temps are good,now the lower is a another story.
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