Dual OPPOSED steering system

[oldskier]

I am about to give up on my Ride Guide dual opposed steering. I have new cables and everything is adjusted tight, but the plastic bushings (and maybe the shaft or pinion gears) in the helm are worn out and I have 2" of slop at the wheel.:mad:

I see Teleflex systems all over the net, dual no-feedback but they are same side cables. Does anyone still make a dual rack OPPOSED steering system anymore?

[1BadAction]

no. teleflex still makes the cables and the single helms, but not the dual helms. if you want a tflex system, you gotta piece it together.

[oldskier]

no. teleflex still makes the cables and the single helms, but not the dual helms. if you want a tflex system, you gotta piece it together.


Wish I'd have just filled the port side hole and gone Teleflex when I built it....

[j_martin]

no. teleflex still makes the cables and the single helms, but not the dual helms. if you want a tflex system, you gotta piece it together.

Mechanically, both cables from the same side should be just as tight at opposed cables. The trick is to have two separate cables adjusted so the backlash is taken up. That's impossible with one cable, but it doesn't require that they be routed from different sides.

The NFB system is great.

hope it helps
John

[1BadAction]

Mechanically, both cables from the same side should be just as tight at opposed cables. The trick is to have two separate cables adjusted so the backlash is taken up. That's impossible with one cable, but it doesn't require that they be routed from different sides.

The NFB system is great.

hope it helps
John

adjust the same side cables so there is no play in the helm, and they are too tight. as soon as they are loose enough to not be binding, there is play there. you also can't eliminate the slack at the bar that ties the cables together and the pivot on the tiller arm, unless you want to put brand new parts there every 10 hours of running.

NFB is the worst, no matter what you do, there will still be play in the helm mechanism, and it just gets worse as it gets used. Besides, if the boat is setup right there should be very little feedback anyways.

[transomstand]

I am about to give up on my Ride Guide dual opposed steering. I have new cables and everything is adjusted tight, but the plastic bushings (and maybe the shaft or pinion gears) in the helm are worn out and I have 2" of slop at the wheel.:mad:



Somthin' aint right, that's not possible. To have 2" of slop, you would have to have teeth missing from the rack, or pinion gear. You could remove the plastic bushings entirely and not create that much slop. It almost sounds like your cable adjustment is stretching the cables, instead of compressing them. The stuff in my boat is 30 years old, and doesn't have that much slop.:confused:

[crazy horse]

Yea, Something doesn't sound right. They musta built those old Ride-Guide systems pretty good. My dual ride-guide still has almost no slop and has never giving me any problem. I run it real tight,Too. I've never been able to run a same side setup as tight. Even the ends of the cables will wiggle a little with a same side setup. It just doesn't work as good to me.

[Action Dave]

I have the dual opposed Teleflex system in my boat. I'm pretty sure it's NLA. It works good but I'd trade it for Rideguide anyday of the week. I don't use solid mounts and there is a little play in my steering but I can drive it easily. I guess I'm used to it. 2" seems like alot though. Something's not right.

[oldskier]

Somthin' aint right, that's not possible. To have 2" of slop, you would have to have teeth missing from the rack, or pinion gear. You could remove the plastic bushings entirely and not create that much slop. It almost sounds like your cable adjustment is stretching the cables, instead of compressing them. The stuff in my boat is 30 years old, and doesn't have that much slop.:confused:


Pete, Do you have a step by step adjustment instruction? Maybe I am doing it wrong? I tightened the nuts in the rack tubes for zero slack. When I turn the wheel back and forth, the cable ends at the motor do not move, but I have 2" of wheel movement at the outside circumference and I can see the shaft and pinion gears moving inside the bushes.

[transomstand]

Pete, Do you have a step by step adjustment instruction? Maybe I am doing it wrong? I tightened the nuts in the rack tubes for zero slack. When I turn the wheel back and forth, the cable ends at the motor do not move, but I have 2" of wheel movement at the outside circumference and I can see the shaft and pinion gears moving inside the bushes.

That's it, you just move the tube until the slack is gone, BUT make sure your going in the right direction (I've done it the wrong way myself when not paying attention) . You want the cables compressing against each other, moving the tube outward will do it on opposing steering. If your adjusting inward, your stretching the cables.

[transomstand]

Adjust outward to compress cables

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd58/transomstand/steer.jpg

[oldskier]

Adjust outward to compress cables



OK, Let me see if I 'got my mind right'...

Adjust the nuts on the steering tubes so that they move the tubes OUT toward the end of the cable?

[crazy horse]

Hey Pete? What's the function of that split shaft collar?:thumbsup:

[Forkin' Crazy]

adjust the same side cables so there is no play in the helm, and they are too tight. as soon as they are loose enough to not be binding, there is play there. you also can't eliminate the slack at the bar that ties the cables together and the pivot on the tiller arm, unless you want to put brand new parts there every 10 hours of running.

Not with the T&R dual kit. It has a ball and cup design that you can set the back lash on.

Stretch the cables? ;) I don't think it matters, as long as it gets them in a bind.

[1BadAction]

Not with the T&R dual kit. It has a ball and cup design that you can set the back lash on.
do you have anything useful to contribute, or are you just going to cite off the wall NLA parts to try and pick apart my reply? :rolleyes:

[transomstand]

Hey Pete? What's the function of that split shaft collar?:thumbsup:

The collar is an adjustable anchor for the trim limit switch cable. The limit switch is the odd looking device with the rubber boot on top. A little Rube Goldberg, but it stops the trim at exactly the same point every time.

[transomstand]

OK, Let me see if I 'got my mind right'...

Adjust the nuts on the steering tubes so that they move the tubes OUT toward the end of the cable?

I think ya got it:D:thumbsup:

[oldskier]

Pete, Thanks! I been doin it wrong :nonod:....it's always you that takes care of me bro. :thumbsup:

If I hang around here long enough, I'll rise to the level of a fastboat moron.:o

Wish I had kept track of the money I've saved by buyin parts from members and askin dumb questions around here....:eek:

[Forkin' Crazy]

adjust the same side cables so there is no play in the helm, and they are too tight. as soon as they are loose enough to not be binding, there is play there. you also can't eliminate the slack at the bar that ties the cables together and the pivot on the tiller arm, unless you want to put brand new parts there every 10 hours of running.

NFB is the worst, no matter what you do, there will still be play in the helm mechanism, and it just gets worse as it gets used. Besides, if the boat is setup right there should be very little feedback anyways.



Not with the T&R dual kit. It has a ball and cup design that you can set the back lash on.

Stretch the cables? ;) I don't think it matters, as long as it gets them in a bind.




do you have anything useful to contribute, or are you just going to cite off the wall NLA parts to try and pick apart my reply? :rolleyes:

NLA? Ebay? I try and pick apart your reply?

POOR POOR PITIFUL ME! Give me a ****ing break! I meant nothing demeaning with my remark. Just stating fact. I guess if you want to put me on your "I HATE 1BADACTION" club, well count me in. When you get a boat that is RUNNING and FLOATING, give me a call, because I'll drive down to FLORIDA to see it run. GOOD LUCK ASS HOLE!

AND, Is the NLA available on EBAY??? FO!

[1BadAction]

NLA? Ebay? I try and pick apart your reply?

POOR POOR PITIFUL ME! Give me a ****ing break! I meant nothing demeaning with my remark. Just stating fact. I guess if you want to put me on your "I HATE 1BADACTION" club, well count me in. When you get a boat that is RUNNING and FLOATING, give me a call, because I'll drive down to FLORIDA to see it run. GOOD LUCK ASS HOLE!

AND, Is the NLA available on EBAY??? FO!
lol. great temper tantrum. :thumbsup:

Regardless, if you weren't trying to be a S/A with your reply, then I apologize. I still don't consider the t&r rod ends to be a viable option. even when you can find them, most of the time they are insanely expensive. The bent SS arm they use splits where its press-broke too.

[MTOLLEY]

The way i know to adjust opposing rideguide system is this... loosen the the inner nut on the cable tube, grab the port side cable and pull as hard as you can. while pulling turn the outer nut up against the stop. regain your strength and do it again. by this point all of the slop will be out of the system. if you try to adjust them the opposite direction, you will have slop and the steering will be hard to turn! mt

[Forkin' Crazy]

lol. great temper tantrum. :thumbsup:

Regardless, if you weren't trying to be a S/A with your reply, then I apologize. I still don't consider the t&r rod ends to be a viable option. even when you can find them, most of the time they are insanely expensive. The bent SS arm they use splits where its press-broke too.

Glad you liked it! ;) Never had one split and I ran for over 10 years. Course that don't mean **** I guess.

[transomstand]

lol. great temper tantrum. :thumbsup:

Regardless, if you weren't trying to be a S/A with your reply, then I apologize. I still don't consider the t&r rod ends to be a viable option. even when you can find them, most of the time they are insanely expensive. The bent SS arm they use splits where its press-broke too.


Glad you liked it! ;) Never had one split and I ran for over 10 years. Course that don't mean **** I guess.

Glad to see you kids gettin along again, thought you two were gonna need a time out:p:D:cheers:

[Forkin' Crazy]

Glad to see you kids gettin along again, thought you two were gonna need a time out:p:D:cheers:

You get a piss and moan followed by an extreme piss and moan. Making a point, nothing personal. :eek: