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175checkmate
08-14-2002, 04:32 AM
Having looked through all the post's dealing with the transom and how to repair it. My checkmate is going to get all the wood removed and repaired theis winter, Soft floor.
The transom is also going to have to be done. So what to do?

The outer fiberglass skin on the transom is in good shape.

Do I completly cut out the transom plug and install a new one complet with knee's.

Do I cut the splash well out and gut and rebuild from the inside out. Adding stingers and knee's to give the most support?

This is going to be a winter project.
Thanks

vector mike
08-14-2002, 06:04 AM
I had a Glasstron GT 150 that a had to do that to. I seperated the top half of the boat and worked on it that way. I removed the whole transom and put in all new floor and stringers in floor and under bow. Didn't know at the time about transom knees so I didn't install any but I'm redoing my Vector now and plan on installing some in that.

H2Onut
08-14-2002, 06:43 AM
Cut the cap off the top, dig out all the old crap , then pour in TRANSOM CAST EPOXY, SeaCast is Poly Transom Cast is EPOXY


www.fgci.com

lool at Vector recore update threas you can see some pics

175checkmate
08-14-2002, 01:16 PM
The rear deck, After adding the trasom cast.
Should I glass in some support going from the transom to the floor?

vector mike
08-14-2002, 01:18 PM
I would install transom knees. It will make it stronger.

175checkmate
08-14-2002, 01:25 PM
What is the name of the transom cast. Went to the link you have listed and was unable to find it.

H2Onut
08-14-2002, 01:39 PM
Its called transom cast, they so not leave it on the shelf, the will mix it on demand, it comes in a 2 gallon set 50/50 mix, you will need a 1/2 inch drill and a mixing tool. It takes about 10 - 15 minutes of mixing. It ends up like thick pancake syrup. I did mine in 2 pours, about 3/4 first pour, let is set for about 1 hour then mixed up rest and poured it.

B Leonard, Talon2.5, Shorepounder and Rickracer have seen it. You may want to get their opionions as well. I was suprised at how well it came out.

Techno
08-14-2002, 04:04 PM
IF your going to do this for a winter project I would replace the transom with plywood. Its light and strong and not that expensive.
Its work involved so it will take some time and seem to require horrible things done to the boat to replace it. But its worth it.

The Transom casts huge advantage is you put it in with minimal work and destruction. But I personally don't like it if you have the time to do it right. Like all things it has its place.

Google (http://google.com) is a pretty good search engine for finding things.

link (http://www.transomrepair.com/)

My dislike of the material is somewhat anal. It states a 3x strength factor over wood. Wood is one of the strongest materials there is. Now if you used the same wieght of wood, would it still be 3x as stong? They make a claim and don't provide any proof. No numbers- No tests. Wood has no, to almost no fatigue life. Impact strength is enormous, it may dent but still has the majority of it structure intact. Which are they comparing to?
With that claim it doesn't say what kind of strength they are talking about. The stuff is ground glass mixed in with resin. If it was as good as they claimed you could forget the boat laminations and use it as boat building method. I think it has its place but it isn't as good as plywood, much less better.

This is just my opinion but since they do not supply any factual testing or numbers anyone can be right about thier opinion of this stuff.

vector mike
08-15-2002, 11:16 AM
I agree with Techno. Use wood as a transom base. It is not only cheeper but has a much higher stress capability. When resin gets too thick it tends to crack under stress and not flex.

175checkmate
08-15-2002, 11:48 AM
I would like to try and and install a transom, but I realy don't want to cut off the splashwell or the rear skin. The paint is nice.
Can all of this be done from the inside. Dig out al the rotin stuff, build a wood plug with knee's and install. If this would be OK, how do you attach the wood transom plug to the rear of the boat that's left.
I can see this is going to make my head hurt...

vector mike
08-15-2002, 11:57 AM
It's easier to take the two halves apart but you don't have to. After you make your transom form bolt it to the hull through the excisting holes for the motor mount. This is to hold it in place while you fiberglass it in place. The knees should be a good fit on the transom and the floor(sit flush). Then fiberglass over those also. This is how I did my Glastron. (except for the knees, I didn't know about them back then). Happy fiberglassing!

H2Onut
08-15-2002, 12:01 PM
YOu will have to drill trhough transom and bolt new piece in from inside, once cured fill in the holes. I can be done from inside, but I was going that route, I eventuall just cut out a big window out of the transom, it made the installation alot easier to deal with.

Georgia Boy
08-15-2002, 12:06 PM
I do not know, if you could do it it would not be worth the aggravation to me. It is easier to blend in the rear skin. are you doing the floor and stringers as well? if so you might want to think about seperating the hull and deck, will need to build a jig, but you could save your gel coat or paint that way.