View Full Version : new transom in hydrostream viper
mikeyboy
03-11-2009, 04:36 PM
puttin back together me viper with the new coosa transom hope it works as good as i heard it does
Tom Foley
03-11-2009, 06:49 PM
Put plenty of glass on both sides and tab in the knees in stages to spread out the load . It's good stuff but needs to be heavily encapsulated .
mikeyboy
03-12-2009, 09:22 PM
ya thats what i have been doing i glass i little then let it dry its turning out good
72EbkoStinger
03-12-2009, 09:51 PM
puttin back together me viper with the new coosa transom hope it works as good as i heard it does
Did you also use this material for core? Doesn't look like you diod for the floor. Any reason? I have two streams I need to do work on so I am interested if this is a better route than balsa. I only want to do it once. (Actually, I don't WANT to all that much but I have to).
Also, I assume you but mat between the skin and the coosa, right?
(Heck, I don't even know if I am saying this right. Dangerous, huh?)
D
chargerk1d 2
03-13-2009, 02:03 PM
Looks Good Cant Wait To Rip Mine Up 2morrow U Have To C It
Ted Stryker
03-13-2009, 02:26 PM
What grade of Coosa are You using..?
chargerk1d 2
03-14-2009, 05:49 PM
Did U Just Out Those Knees In
Riverman
03-14-2009, 07:00 PM
If it needed a transom it needs core too no?
BeefKid
03-14-2009, 07:08 PM
:iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree:
mikeyboy
03-14-2009, 11:26 PM
its the blue water edition and the floor and core was redone about 2 years ago then now the transom went so the core and floor i no is good .. its better then the balsa because it does not ataract mold its 40-60 pacent lighter them wood and and will not take in water its really strong it wolvin glass in the coosa
chargerk1d 2
03-15-2009, 07:30 AM
yea mike u have to finish iit already
chargerk1d 2
03-17-2009, 09:48 PM
Yea Im Prob Going To Open Up My Transome Tomorrow
Matt Gent
03-18-2009, 08:48 AM
Composite cores need a thicker skin than wood.
For the renicell core in my Vandal the skin that was left after grinding was only about 1/8" of gel and mat plus some roving. I put in a layer of 1708 and two layers of 12oz biax (one 0/90, one 45/45) on the skin prior to setting in the core. Then 3 layers of 12oz on the inside, plus the tabbing for the knees. All wet-on-wet for a given side of the core, you do not want to let the glass set up between layers. And each layer was a couple inches wider than the previous.
Also, I used all epoxy. I don't trust the adhesion of polyester to the existing glass.
Riverman
03-18-2009, 09:14 AM
Matt, are you sure you even need a core with all that extra glass?
oldskier
03-18-2009, 10:39 AM
Composite cores need a thicker skin than wood.
For the renicell core in my Vandal the skin that was left after grinding was only about 1/8" of gel and mat plus some roving. I put in a layer of 1708 and two layers of 12oz biax (one 0/90, one 45/45) on the skin prior to setting in the core. Then 3 layers of 12oz on the inside, plus the tabbing for the knees. All wet-on-wet for a given side of the core, you do not want to let the glass set up between layers. And each layer was a couple inches wider than the previous.
Also, I used all epoxy. I don't trust the adhesion of polyester to the existing glass.
Whew! Thats a lot of glass! 5 layers of 12 oz. biax plus the renicell? Should be ready for re-entry into the atmosphere.
tunnels
03-18-2009, 01:20 PM
Whew! Thats a lot of glass! 5 layers of 12 oz. biax plus the renicell? Should be ready for re-entry into the atmosphere.
Using multi Layers of finely woven glass !!.
Thin fine woven glass should be kept for the final outside layers and not buried in amongst heavier layers of coarser stranded glass , under stress and shock loading the fine weave acts like a peel ply and will sheer with great ease. :eek:
This also happens with multi layers of fine woven or stitched materials as well.
Where you have 36 oz lay up you are better to use 24 oz and a 12 oz rather than 3 x 12 oz
The coarser the weave the more robust and the more punishment it will handle even though the final weight of lay up is the same weight . :confused:
Doesn't matter what resin you are using Its the laminate stake that is important ,What you put where and in what sequence!!:thumbsup:
Not being a nit picker just stating a fact to think about !!
RONNIE
03-18-2009, 05:57 PM
maybey you should dig out the rotten coring that you never replaced
Matt Gent
03-18-2009, 10:14 PM
The skin is about .200 on the outside (including gel) and just under .125 on the inside, total laminate is just about 2". Keep in mind this is only in the motorboard area. I used 12oz because I bought one roll to do the whole boat with.
With a foam core the coring is really only handling the shearing loads (and for a transom, local punch/compression loads). It needs a significant skin to handle bending loads.
Either way, whatever laminate you choose do it wet-on-wet.
Li'l Toy
03-19-2009, 10:23 PM
When you had to shut your boat down because the transom was wobbling around, and you are probably going to hang a V6 on a 14' boat, your transom (or, more technically your motorboard) is gonna get built strong!
Riverman
03-19-2009, 10:58 PM
When you had to shut your boat down because the transom was wobbling around, and you are probably going to hang a V6 on a 14' boat, your transom (or, more technically your motorboard) is gonna get built strong!I don't quite understand what you mean. I run a V4 and my transom doesn't wobble around.
Matt Gent
03-20-2009, 09:32 AM
He meant our boat.
mikeyboy
03-20-2009, 02:18 PM
i had a 88spl on it
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