nosecone & gearcase scoops

[84CHKMATE]

From reading some of the threads here, it looks like if you're not doing over 80, LWP's are not really necessary - my question is, I was thinking of installing a nosecone and gearcase scoops - right now much easier on the wallet. It doesn't look like I'll be adding more setback any time soon, just not in the budget, so I'm stuck with 6" of setback. I was at 72 gps with a 28P chopper - motor almost all the way up, I still had had some height left but lost pressure and I'm sure there was more mph left - What do you guys think ?
Thanks - Mike R



http://i43.tinypic.com/2h6vr7o_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2h6vr7o&s=5) http://i41.tinypic.com/9zvfp1_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=9zvfp1&s=5)

[olmo40]

Sounds like you are on the right track.80mph is about the number a non nose cone lower blows out .72 ? with a 28 chopper ,i would assume revs are not that high??What boat and motor ??

[84CHKMATE]

84 20' Checkmate Enchanter w/ a warmed up Merc 225 - If I remember right, the RPM's were at 7000 - it was the end of last season. She handled great, nice calm water on the lake but by the time I hit 72 I was looking at shore !!! Normally I run a 24 chopper (incredible holeshot), but I picked up a 26 over the winter that I can't wait to try this spring - hoping for the best of both worlds !
Thanks - Mike

[84CHKMATE]

ok, I know there's opinions out there !

[150aintenuff]

7K with a 28... YIKES check your tach.... cause your slip is HUGE iif its accurate!!!!!!!!! 10% slip with that prop is 5585 RPM... and you need more setback... you have to WAY overtrim it according to your picture.... 10-12"... and a nose cone adds stern lift... and isnt necessary.... block off the top 4 holes and add the scoops... no cone... you should be in the 75-77 MPH range when all said and done if you go 10" back and get a 25-26P prop.. at 6K

[chipg]

Where did you find the scoops?


From reading some of the threads here, it looks like if you're not doing over 80, LWP's are not really necessary - my question is, I was thinking of installing a nosecone and gearcase scoops - right now much easier on the wallet. It doesn't look like I'll be adding more setback any time soon, just not in the budget, so I'm stuck with 6" of setback. I was at 72 gps with a 28P chopper - motor almost all the way up, I still had had some height left but lost pressure and I'm sure there was more mph left - What do you guys think ?
Thanks - Mike R



http://i43.tinypic.com/2h6vr7o_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2h6vr7o&s=5) http://i41.tinypic.com/9zvfp1_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=9zvfp1&s=5)

[150aintenuff]

merc carries them

[84CHKMATE]

7K with a 28... YIKES check your tach.... cause your slip is HUGE iif its accurate!!!!!!!!! 10% slip with that prop is 5585 RPM... and you need more setback... you have to WAY overtrim it according to your picture.... 10-12"... and a nose cone adds stern lift... and isnt necessary.... block off the top 4 holes and add the scoops... no cone... you should be in the 75-77 MPH range when all said and done if you go 10" back and get a 25-26P prop.. at 6K


Much Thanks 150 :thumbsup: I've got a 26 thats going on as soon as the ice & snow melts & I'll check the tach (I was overtrimming)

chipg - try here - Click here: Mercury Quicksilver 832066A 1 WATER INLET PLATE KIT O/B @ MarineEngine.com
Check your case, the scoops for an 8 hole case are Merc part # 17280AZ

[Tom D.]

Having had the same boat I would say you need more set back (I had 10", I think 12" would be better). A nose cone w/LWP so that higher motor heights could be achieved. A 26P Chopper or Trophy would work pretty good for top end. Watch your water preasure.

[150aintenuff]

as a reference a friends checkmate with a 225 yamaha ran 76ish on 10"setback 2" below pad no nose cone with 20 Psi and a 25 trophy

[[email protected]]

84chkmate....Remember to check the size if the inlet plates that you have . Remember last fall we talked about the 2 different sizes of plates available. One set for the 8 hole lower and the other was for the larger engines with fewer holes. I made the mistake of buying the wrong ones first. I now have 2 sets. I also have some spare SS set screws of ya need some. I had to buy a box of each on line. Craig :cheers:

[[email protected]]

chipg....here is the link to the both sets of the scoops.
http://www.reynoldsracingmarine.com/probsolv.htm :thumbsup:

[chipg]

Thanks, looking for something similar for a smaller gearcase, but may be able to modify these.


chipg....here is the link to the both sets of the scoops.
http://www.reynoldsracingmarine.com/probsolv.htm :thumbsup:

[stroker smoker]

the cone you show will help none unless you need tail lift its the distance between the front of the case and prop that helps prop burn as high as your running stop up top 2 pick ups on each side trim it down some

[JUPITER PULSARE]

If your tach is reading too high, check the back of the tach. There should be a removeable plug and a small arrow dial. Make sure the arrow is pointing to the 12 pole possition.

[[email protected]]

If your tach is reading too high, check the back of the tach. There should be a removeable plug and a small arrow dial. Make sure the arrow is pointing to the 12 pole possition.


Here is a link to Teleflex that gives directions on installing a tach and another for troubleshooting all gauges. very helpful info.
http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/teleflexfiles/gauges/page342.pdf
http://www.downloadingfiles.co.uk/teleflexfiles/gauges/A%20Basic%20Gauge%20Test.pdf

Good luck! Craig :cheers:

[Wizard]

Scoops yes, nose cone no. The cone won't do anything for you until you get well above 80. The Torquemaster can run to 85+ before blowout. The scoops will really allow you get the case up higher and maintain water pressure. You really need the setback on that Enchanger. 6" is not nearly enough. I'd go 10 or 12. The added leverage will gain you a bigger return than just getting the engine higher and adding rpms. Oh and I agree your 3L enigne really won't live long at 7000. Your more likely at 6000.

:cheers:

[[email protected]]

84CHKMATE, I finally got my inlet plates or "scoops" installed this past weekend and as soon as I get a chance I'll post a few pics. I am hoping that all that watched this post will offer up any advice be it good or bad as to whether or not I have them installed properly. I am not sure about the thin gap it left for the water to get in but then again I never installed these before either. I would also like some comments on the size of the heads holding the plates on vs. drag and turbulence back to the prop. I'll post some pics soon. Thanks all, Craig :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

By the way Wizard, awesome looking boat ya got there in your post. It looks like 100MPH just sitting there in the water. :thumbsup:

[Wizard]

Thanks!

How did the scoops work? You should have water pressure galore! :cheers:

[[email protected]]

Thanks!

How did the scoops work? You should have water pressure galore! :cheers:


The ice is finally off the lake and did not have a chance to get her out and try. Hopefully this week. I will try to post some pics soon so all can get a look to see if I installed them properly. There isn't much of a slit left for the water to pass thru but I guess it doesn't take much. Craig :cheers:

[[email protected]]

Actually, I guess if there is pressure there then they work. I'll just have to keep an eye on the gauge. I also installed an Allison skidpaner and am really anxious to see if that improves my holeshot. :thumbsup:

[200VEGAS]

IM TRING THEM TOO. NO ICE IN ORLANDO:cheers:

[baja200merk]

12+inches of setback, a 27 tempest, trophy or 28 bravo one would really get it flying with next to no positive trim...

that slip % (and tach) is prolly about right judging from the trim angle in the pic :eek:

kid

[200VEGAS]

Im At 3 3/4 Down And My Inlets Look Like There About Clear At Level Trim. 20' Vegas 12" Plate. Im Gona Put Scoops On And Hope To Get To 2" Or So

[baja200merk]

why not just run it and move it up a little at a time till you notice your loosing water pressure

i had a hyd plate on my vegas so i could put a lil bit of positive trim in it matt it till about 70 then bring the plate up a little bit at a time. It would blow out around 81mph but i still had enough water pressure, with 2 people it wouldnt blow out till 86ish and like i said wp was still around 10lbs

[[email protected]]

The ice is finally off the lake and did not have a chance to get her out and try. Hopefully this week. I will try to post some pics soon so all can get a look to see if I installed them properly. There isn't much of a slit left for the water to pass thru but I guess it doesn't take much. Craig :cheers:

Finally had a chance to get out on the lake this afternoon to try out the scoops and Allison skidplaner. The wife and I loaded up some of the fishing gear (but most of it) and hit the water running. I'll tell ya what!!!!!......Mercury scoops ROCK!! I reached the end of my height on the CMC and still had 20PSI left. I will have to take some time out to get an exact measurement but I am guessing I am about a little over an inch below pad. The skidpaner definetely improved my holeshot but the real test will be with my Tempest 25P and my 325 LB fishing partner. The TXP 25P worked great for the two of us though. I was able to pick up more RPM's with it due to more height. I still need to get it worked to reach my RPM range. Top end was completely unhampered by the plate. AWESOME!! :cheers:

[[email protected]]

Im At 3 3/4 Down And My Inlets Look Like There About Clear At Level Trim. 20' Vegas 12" Plate. Im Gona Put Scoops On And Hope To Get To 2" Or So


200Vegas, you have to install the scoops if you are at all interested in raising the engine without a nosecone. It seems the sky is the limit. With the correct prop and setback, I have found out that almost any v hull will be able to be dialed in for its best performance. My Astro hull is not designed like the fast hulls today and it has benefited from some of the mods mentioned. If my tub can do better than any can. Just my opinion. Craig :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

ok, I know there's opinions out there !


84CHKMATE, if you are still out there go for the scoops and forget the nosecone for now. Listen to the others here as I believe they are correct. You and I discussed this last year and the scoops are the way to go. You will be able to raise your engine without fear of losing PSI and can get a real good idea of what your setup will do as is. I will et some pics up on the scoops as promised. good luck. Craig :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

Thanks!

How did the scoops work? You should have water pressure galore! :cheers:

Water pressure galore is an understatement!!! I would not have believed it I had not seen it for myself. I just wish I had done it sooner and not waited. I just had my Tempest Plus 25P worked by Rich Boger and did not get a chance to try it since i got it back from him late last fall. I will be able to run it higher now since I have the scoops. Highly recommend them to anyone wanting to raise their engine. Thanks, Craig:thumbsup:

[84CHKMATE]

Hey Craig ! Great to hear the scoops are working :cheers: After looking at pics of them, I had the same concern as far as not much of an opening, but you answered that question ! The ice is gone here too, so I'm going to order them up and get them on asap. Did you still block the top 3 or 4 holes or just running the plates ? Let me know when you get a chance.
Good to hear from you !
Mike

* will send you a PM with email address.......
Also went back a page and got the address for Reyonlds - Thanks Again for the info !

[[email protected]]

Hey Craig ! Great to hear the scoops are working :cheers: After looking at pics of them, I had the same concern as far as not much of an opening, but you answered that question ! The ice is gone here too, so I'm going to order them up and get them on asap. Did you still block the top 3 or 4 holes or just running the plates ? Let me know when you get a chance.
Good to hear from you !
Mike

* will send you a PM with email address.......
Also went back a page and got the address for Reyonlds - Thanks Again for the info !

Hello
I'll send you a photo of what they look like installed. The gap is very small in my opinion but apparently enough for sufficient water pressure. I saw proof of that at WOT jacked up to the sky and still over 20PSI.
Here is what I did. I blocked the top 3 holes with SS set screws. The forth one down will be for the center hole in the plate and the provided rubber compression stud that fits into the hole after you drill it out a bit larger as per the instructions. YOu will notice that the center hole I am referring to in the plate is not exactly in the center. Each plate is marked left and right and contoured to fit the cotour of the lower unit. If placed the way they want it it would have used the fourth hole UP form the BOTTOM. I wanted all 4 lower holes open and the top 4 closed (3 with set screws and 1 with the plate screw.) Understand? the plates are thin enough to actually contour with your hands a maybe if necessary with a small hammer. It takes some time but well worth it. Maybe it would not be necessary to even have to block any holes at all but since I already blockedf up the top 4, I decided to do it my way. I wil give you my phone number with the email if you need any help. Craig :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

Hello
I'll send you a photo of what they look like installed. The gap is very small in my opinion but apparently enough for sufficient water pressure. I saw proof of that at WOT jacked up to the sky and still over 20PSI.
Here is what I did. I blocked the top 3 holes with SS set screws. The forth one down will be for the center hole in the plate and the provided rubber compression stud that fits into the hole after you drill it out a bit larger as per the instructions. YOu will notice that the center hole I am referring to in the plate is not exactly in the center. Each plate is marked left and right and contoured to fit the cotour of the lower unit. If placed the way they want it it would have used the fourth hole UP form the BOTTOM. I wanted all 4 lower holes open and the top 4 closed (3 with set screws and 1 with the plate screw.) Understand? the plates are thin enough to actually contour with your hands a maybe if necessary with a small hammer. It takes some time but well worth it. Maybe it would not be necessary to even have to block any holes at all but since I already blockedf up the top 4, I decided to do it my way. I wil give you my phone number with the email if you need any help. Craig :thumbsup:

I just read my reply and forgot to put in there that I actually switched the plates. ie..left went upside down on the right side and the right one went on the left side upside down. This put the center mounting hole in the plate in the 3rd hole position down form the top.

[Wizard]

With the scoops you really don't need to block any of the holes. The pressure into the cavity by the scoops is very high so it won't suck air even if the top holes are out of the water. If you get the scoops working well back the top and bottom screws out one at a time and coat them with JB weld so they will be more permanent. They have been known to rip out under fast turns. Also note you will lose some pressure during hard turning. Just keep an eye on the pressure gauge when turning at fast speeds. Also wach for them getting filled up with weeds when fishing shallow weedy bays.

Your Boger prop should lift like crazy! I've had a few. :cheers:

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the advice on the JB weld. Good idea. I already had the top holes blocked so I just left them like that. I wish now that I had done the scoops first. Maybe 84CHKMATE will not have to go thru the trouble of swapping them to opposite sides and all that I went thru and just install them as they were intended to be. After my experience I would belive that, Wizard. And I'll tell ya what, if he is near as good as what I have heard them I am expecting to hit 74MPH. The work is awesome! Craig :thumbsup:

[84CHKMATE]

Ordered the scoops yesterday from Reynolds,
I'm hoping to have them here by next week to get them installed - Thanks for all the input guys !!! :cheers:




With the scoops you really don't need to block any of the holes. The pressure into the cavity by the scoops is very high so it won't suck air even if the top holes are out of the water. If you get the scoops working well back the top and bottom screws out one at a time and coat them with JB weld so they will be more permanent. They have been known to rip out under fast turns. Also note you will lose some pressure during hard turning. Just keep an eye on the pressure gauge when turning at fast speeds. Also wach for them getting filled up with weeds when fishing shallow weedy bays.

Thanks for the tip Wizard - I wonder since the 4th hole is blocked on install if that has any effect ? I'll probably skip blocking the top holes if there is enough pressure with just the plates - got my fingers crossed to get them on correctly and go, Once I put the boat in the water, she's in until the end of the season ! ( I hope !!!)
I'll keep you posted - Mike

[200VEGAS]

Should Be Here Thur Or Fri I Last Week Blocked Top Three Per Side And Lift And Test Till I Am About 3-2 3/4 Down Now Steering Getting A Little Tougher, Put It Is Sea Star So Its Ok. Still Got Water. Let You Know On Scoops After This Weekend

[[email protected]]

Ordered the scoops yesterday from Reynolds,
I'm hoping to have them here by next week to get them installed - Thanks for all the input guys !!! :cheers:





Thanks for the tip Wizard - I wonder since the 4th hole is blocked on install if that has any effect ? I'll probably skip blocking the top holes if there is enough pressure with just the plates - got my fingers crossed to get them on correctly and go, Once I put the boat in the water, she's in until the end of the season ! ( I hope !!!)
I'll keep you posted - Mike

If I remember correctly, the 4th hole up from the bottom is where the center install hole is on the plates when putting them on according to the "left" and right" instructions. If so then I would not block any other holes cuz that would then leave only 3 unblocked on the bottom. I believe Wizard has the best advice on not blocking any if you are putting on the scoops. I wish I had not blocked any knowing what I do now and how much pressure I had with the scoops installed. JMHO Craig :iagree::thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

Should Be Here Thur Or Fri I Last Week Blocked Top Three Per Side And Lift And Test Till I Am About 3-2 3/4 Down Now Steering Getting A Little Tougher, Put It Is Sea Star So Its Ok. Still Got Water. Let You Know On Scoops After This Weekend


I remember when I first started experimenting with engine height and getting that change in steering feeling. The feeling of it getting tighter. As I moved up and still achieving positive results ie increase in speed, RPM's, handling, OK PSI etc., I was again improving the feel in the steering and also beginning to eliminate most if not all chine walking. At around the 3" below mark my chine walking was terrible but as I moved up to 1.5" below it is completely gone. As explained by many high performance guys here on S&F when your engine is low in the water there is also more hull in the water and that causes many of these affects. I can't see any reason why your more high performance hulls wouldn't perform better than my heavy Astro bass boat. Thru the advice here I was able to get it to "fly" better and increased speed and handling and made it a more enjoyable rig without having to spend 45,000.00 or more on a new rig. Not that I wouldn't want an Allison 2+2. Now that's a different story!!! :thumbsup:

[sasquitch]

Hello ,I have a set of scoops, but don't have the instruction. When I hold the scoops up to the water inlet holes.It looks like I will have to drill and tap the top and bottom holes. Is this correct? Maybe you could send me a pic of yours? Thanks Brad

[[email protected]]

Hello ,I have a set of scoops, but don't have the instruction. When I hold the scoops up to the water inlet holes.It looks like I will have to drill and tap the top and bottom holes. Is this correct? Maybe you could send me a pic of yours? Thanks Brad

Sasquitch, If you go back to page one of this post you will find the website to reynoldsracing.com where I supplied the link showing the 2 sets of different inlet plates. The black ones are for the 8 hole lower unit and the silver ones are for the 225/250HP lower units with less than 8 holes. If you have a standard 8 hole lower unit from Merc then you will notice that when you lay the plate marked right and left on the appropriate side then all the holes will be covered. the top and bottom hole of the inlet plate will be above and below the actual holes in the lower. You will need to drill holes into the case at these points to attach with suppoied screws. Be careful though, of the bottom attaching hole cuz it is close to the actual gearcase housing. There will be a hole in the middle of the plate (actually just off center) to utilize one of the actuall inlet holes for attaching. I will try to post a pic of mine and if possible a pic of the directions. :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

Here are some pics of them installed. Sorry it is not a real good pic.

[[email protected]]

Here is a pic of the smaller inlet plates that are made for the 225/250. I purchased them by mistake. The other is a photo of the top 4 holes plugged before I installed the inlet plates. Again, I may not have needed to do that since the plates have given me more than enough presure at elevated engine heights.

[[email protected]]

Here is a pic of the inlet plate kit for the 8 hole lower unit

[sasquitch]

Hey astro, Thanks a lot that is exactly what I needed. Those pics confirmed what I thought. I really appreciate the pics. I will install mine this weekend. I have a 85 allison xst with a 2.4l merc. I don't want to add the nose cone/lwp, until I see what I can get with raising the motor and adding the scoops. Thanks again, Brad

[[email protected]]

Hey astro, Thanks a lot that is exactly what I needed. Those pics confirmed what I thought. I really appreciate the pics. I will install mine this weekend. I have a 85 allison xst with a 2.4l merc. I don't want to add the nose cone/lwp, until I see what I can get with raising the motor and adding the scoops. Thanks again, Brad

Brad, so which set of plates do you have and which lower unit? 8 hole? When I get time I'll take a pic of the directions sheet and post it :thumbsup:

[200VEGAS]

Test And Tune[jack] South Of Mullet Lake Part Sat Suppose To By Nice And 82:):):d

[sasquitch]

I have the 8 hole lower unit. Thanks again. Brad

[200VEGAS]

SOMEHOW I STRIPPED THE TOP HOLE ON ONE SIDE, SO THAT ONE GOT A 12-24, INSTEAD OF THE SUPPLIED 10-32 X 1/2. YOU GOT TO BE CAREFUL TO NOT WALLOW THE HOLE I DID IT CAUSE I WENT THRU SOMETHING[ LIKE A 1/4" OF METAL AND THEN POCKET AND THEN MORE METAL THIS WAS STARBOARD SIDE. THE PORT SIDE WAS STRAIGHT METAL THE WHOLE 5/8 OR SO YOU NEED TO GO. I WAS TRING NOT TO GO TO DEEP AND EVERYTIME YOU START AGAIN IF YOU ARE A FRACTION OFF ON YOUR ANGLE , YOUR GOING TO CUT OUT TO MUCH. COME ON TOMMORROW:cheers:

[[email protected]]

SOMEHOW I STRIPPED THE TOP HOLE ON ONE SIDE, SO THAT ONE GOT A 12-24, INSTEAD OF THE SUPPLIED 10-32 X 1/2. YOU GOT TO BE CAREFUL TO NOT WALLOW THE HOLE I DID IT CAUSE I WENT THRU SOMETHING[ LIKE A 1/4" OF METAL AND THEN POCKET AND THEN MORE METAL THIS WAS STARBOARD SIDE. THE PORT SIDE WAS STRAIGHT METAL THE WHOLE 5/8 OR SO YOU NEED TO GO. I WAS TRING NOT TO GO TO DEEP AND EVERYTIME YOU START AGAIN IF YOU ARE A FRACTION OFF ON YOUR ANGLE , YOUR GOING TO CUT OUT TO MUCH. COME ON TOMMORROW:cheers:


Honestly, that's why I tapped each hole so they were threaded and then applied lock tite. I may do as advised here to back each one out and apply JB weld to keep them in place. :thumbsup:

[cocacola]

What's a "skidpaner"? sorry for the newbie question. Got pics?


Finally had a chance to get out on the lake this afternoon to try out the scoops and Allison skidplaner. The wife and I loaded up some of the fishing gear (but most of it) and hit the water running. I'll tell ya what!!!!!......Mercury scoops ROCK!! I reached the end of my height on the CMC and still had 20PSI left. I will have to take some time out to get an exact measurement but I am guessing I am about a little over an inch below pad. The skidpaner definetely improved my holeshot but the real test will be with my Tempest 25P and my 325 LB fishing partner. The TXP 25P worked great for the two of us though. I was able to pick up more RPM's with it due to more height. I still need to get it worked to reach my RPM range. Top end was completely unhampered by the plate. AWESOME!! :cheers:

[[email protected]]

What's a "skidpaner"? sorry for the newbie question. Got pics?

Hi cocacola....How ya doin?? I don't have any pics of mine on my laptop (which is what I am on now..vacation) but I will provide you with a link to see what they are. Actually, here are some pics from the link I was going to send. You wuld have to join the forum to see the links. It's where I got the info for mine and it works great. Craig :thumbsup:

[cocacola]

thanks...cool idea. I assume Allison is the only supplier of this. Don't see it on their website. Will it fit other boats besides an Allison? Do you know how much it costs?


Hi cocacola....How ya doin?? I don't have any pics of mine on my laptop (which is what I am on now..vacation) but I will provide you with a link to see what they are. Actually, here are some pics from the link I was going to send. You wuld have to join the forum to see the links. It's where I got the info for mine and it works great. Craig :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

thanks...cool idea. I assume Allison is the only supplier of this. Don't see it on their website. Will it fit other boats besides an Allison? Do you know how much it costs?

It's not on their website. I joined the Allison owners forum to get as much info as possible about this type of planing aide. I heard a lot about skid plates and hole shot plates and the Allison Skid planer is the original of these devices. The hole shot plates that you see on this and other forums are made for the bottom of a T&H Marine JP but have seen many homemade versions to fit other JP and hulls.
The Allison skidplaner is a factory installed device on their bassboats and they sell them from the parts department at Allison. It comes in 2 different sizes depending on your built-in set back from pad to transom and brackets. Just call Allison and ask for Bill and he will explain it all to you. If I remember correctly the price was around 350.00 and in my opinion for what it did for my boat was worth it. It states on the installation sheets that it will help any boat in faster planing.

[cocacola]

Craig,
Sounds perfect for the skiing and tubing we do. We pile such a huge load in boat that I need low speed planing. I often wondered if setback mount was acting like a parachute....grabbing tons of water on the take off and killing some of the holeshot. Before I saw this thread, I thought of making something like this. Looks like it bolts to setback mount. Does it also go through bottom of boat?

This has been a great thread as I was looking for those scoops initially, but unsure if I need them. With current prop, I can get about 5900rpm fully loaded. Engine is in lowest mounting hole, but not real deep. I have seen water pressure gauge do strange things with high trim angle...but I rarely do that. Looks like Skid Planer could just about serve as a step to get in boat...another issue I have. Trim tabs serve as that now, but aren't really safe to step on (might slip and get cut).



It's not on their website. I joined the Allison owners forum to get as much info as possible about this type of planing aide. I heard a lot about skid plates and hole shot plates and the Allison Skid planer is the original of these devices. The hole shot plates that you see on this and other forums are made for the bottom of a T&H Marine JP but have seen many homemade versions to fit other JP and hulls.
The Allison skidplaner is a factory installed device on their bassboats and they sell them from the parts department at Allison. It comes in 2 different sizes depending on your built-in set back from pad to transom and brackets. Just call Allison and ask for Bill and he will explain it all to you. If I remember correctly the price was around 350.00 and in my opinion for what it did for my boat was worth it. It states on the installation sheets that it will help any boat in faster planing.

[[email protected]]

Craig,
Sounds perfect for the skiing and tubing we do. We pile such a huge load in boat that I need low speed planing. I often wondered if setback mount was acting like a parachute....grabbing tons of water on the take off and killing some of the holeshot. Before I saw this thread, I thought of making something like this. Looks like it bolts to setback mount. Does it also go through bottom of boat?

This has been a great thread as I was looking for those scoops initially, but unsure if I need them. With current prop, I can get about 5900rpm fully loaded. Engine is in lowest mounting hole, but not real deep. I have seen water pressure gauge do strange things with high trim angle...but I rarely do that. Looks like Skid Planer could just about serve as a step to get in boat...another issue I have. Trim tabs serve as that now, but aren't really safe to step on (might slip and get cut).

I am not quite sure I know what you are talking about a "set back mount" on your boat. Is your motor mounted directly to the transom or to a JP or static mount plate? Measure your propshaft to pad distance and let us know here. I would not use the skid planer plate as a step into the boat though. There are better options than that such as mounting a more compact folding boarding ladder to the rear of the hull. I mounted one on the back of my bass boat for my wife. It works great and is not very bulky. The PSI gauge will bounce around if the pressure fluctuates. You may be overtrimming. If you have the correct engine height then you will not need to overtrim

[cocacola]

It's a static offset mount. I will measure later when it's daylight...
Thanks for the tips on ladders.


I am not quite sure I know what you are talking about a "set back mount" on your boat. Is your motor mounted directly to the transom or to a JP or static mount plate? Measure your propshaft to pad distance and let us know here. I would not use the skid planer plate as a step into the boat though. There are better options than that such as mounting a more compact folding boarding ladder to the rear of the hull. I mounted one on the back of my bass boat for my wife. It works great and is not very bulky. The PSI gauge will bounce around if the pressure fluctuates. You may be overtrimming. If you have the correct engine height then you will not need to overtrim

[84CHKMATE]

Got the scoops ! Now if the weather will agree, they're going on asap !
Checked them out, read the instuctions and Craig you're right - Just take your time and it should be a fairly easy install.
Coca Cola - Maybe check into a gunwale hook ladder ? They're portable & hang over the side of the boat, then just fold it up when you're not using it. I've used one in the past and it worked great.
Keep you posted on the scoop install :thumbsup:
Mike

[[email protected]]

cocacola, don't the trim tabs help in planing? I thought that is one of the many functions of trim tabs besides balancing out a boats running attitude while under way. the skidplaner plate is mounted to the supplied brackets and hangs under the setback and above the pad. It then extends back past the point of where the engine mounts are attached to your JP. The instructions are very explicit in the exact measurements in relation to the pad. When installed on Allisons from the factory they are actually mounted to the underside of the setback. I am told that Darris Allison is very meticulous in his quest for the perfect setup. Thanks goodness for people like him.
84CHKMATE, you will see a very significant improvement in PSI with the scoops. The higher the engine is raised the less need for positive trim. All the power is pushing the boat forward and not having to push the bow in the air like you see some boats running. I used to think that is how a boat was to be run until I started listening to everyone here and studying all the posts. This is a great site to learn about everything and anything about performance etc. etc. :thumbsup:

[cocacola]

Yes, the trim tabs do help, but with my Mod-VP, planing at slower speeds is not easily done due to lack of planing surface. thanks for all the information on skid planer. I am going to get one soon.



cocacola, don't the trim tabs help in planing? I thought that is one of the many functions of trim tabs besides balancing out a boats running attitude while under way. the skidplaner plate is mounted to the supplied brackets and hangs under the setback and above the pad. It then extends back past the point of where the engine mounts are attached to your JP. The instructions are very explicit in the exact measurements in relation to the pad. When installed on Allisons from the factory they are actually mounted to the underside of the setback. I am told that Darris Allison is very meticulous in his quest for the perfect setup. Thanks goodness for people like him.
84CHKMATE, you will see a very significant improvement in PSI with the scoops. The higher the engine is raised the less need for positive trim. All the power is pushing the boat forward and not having to push the bow in the air like you see some boats running. I used to think that is how a boat was to be run until I started listening to everyone here and studying all the posts. This is a great site to learn about everything and anything about performance etc. etc. :thumbsup:

[84CHKMATE]

QUOTE=200VEGAS;1628427]SOMEHOW I STRIPPED THE TOP HOLE ON ONE SIDE, SO THAT ONE GOT A 12-24, INSTEAD OF THE SUPPLIED 10-32 X 1/2. YOU GOT TO BE CAREFUL TO NOT WALLOW THE HOLE I DID IT CAUSE I WENT THRU SOMETHING[ LIKE A 1/4" OF METAL AND THEN POCKET AND THEN MORE METAL THIS WAS STARBOARD SIDE. THE PORT SIDE WAS STRAIGHT METAL THE WHOLE 5/8 OR SO YOU NEED TO GO. I WAS TRING NOT TO GO TO DEEP AND EVERYTIME YOU START AGAIN IF YOU ARE A FRACTION OFF ON YOUR ANGLE , YOUR GOING TO CUT OUT TO MUCH. [/QUOTE]

Hey Jerry, Don't feel bad - I just had the same problem with mine !!!
On mine it was the lower hole on the right side, what a mess ! It all started when I broke the tap off in the case, couldn't get it out because it broke flush, couldn't re-tap it, :o so I ended up drilling another hole a fraction off, but made it work ! (the other three were easy) What concerned me was that there was a hairline opening on the rear of each scoop on both sides, the backside's wouldn't sit completely flush with the gearcase so I ended up putting a very small bead of silicone on them (any input all ?)
All in all not too bad of a job and they're on ! :thumbsup:
Hopefully I'll have the boat in the water Monday or Tuesday and we'll see how she goes - will keep you posted ........

ASTRO, 200 VEGAS, WIZARD, SASQUITCH - did you have the small space propside on the scoops as well ?
Craig - Much Thanks Again for all the info on these things !

Mike R

[[email protected]]

Hey Jerry, Don't feel bad - I just had the same problem with mine !!!
On mine it was the lower hole on the right side, what a mess ! It all started when I broke the tap off in the case, couldn't get it out because it broke flush, couldn't re-tap it, :o so I ended up drilling another hole a fraction off, but made it work ! (the other three were easy) What concerned me was that there was a hairline opening on the rear of each scoop on both sides, the backside's wouldn't sit completely flush with the gearcase so I ended up putting a very small bead of silicone on them (any input all ?)
All in all not too bad of a job and they're on ! :thumbsup:
Hopefully I'll have the boat in the water Monday or Tuesday and we'll see how she goes - will keep you posted ........

ASTRO, 200 VEGAS, WIZARD, SASQUITCH - did you have the small space propside on the scoops as well ?
Craig - Much Thanks Again for all the info on these things !

Mike R[/QUOTE]

Mike,
Sorry to hear of the issues you had with drilling and tapping the holes. Jerry too. It sounds like I just got lucky. Actually, sometimes I am just so anal about things that I will research something to death before I dive in. I remember hearing about a small device that backs out broken screws and all and then use a small spring looking thing that actually becomes threads. As far as the small sliver of space on the back side, mine have that too. I believe that there is so much force of water being forced into the open side of the plates that there is no choice but to have an immense amount of water pressure being forced into the inlets due to the plates that the space on the back side should not be an issue.
I learned a long time ago whenever drilling into metal to use cutting oil and slow drill speeds. Same goes for using a tap and die set.
Hope they work out well. By the way, I just read on S&F that someone had a bad blow over and was killed and it happened in the keys on 4/4/09 during some kind of race. I happen to be in the keys now with the family and was wondering where. All in all, always be safe, and prayers go out to the family. Craig :thumbsup: Keep us posted here on how everything goes.

[cocacola]

Static engine mount is 8-3/4" offset from transom.

also...from pad to transom is 9-1/4"



It's a static offset mount. I will measure later when it's daylight...
Thanks for the tips on ladders.

[[email protected]]

Static engine mount is 8-3/4" offset from transom.

also...from pad to transom is 9-1/4"

OK.so your engine is setback 8.75" but I am not sure what the other measurement is. Earlier in this post I mentioned to measure your propshaft to pad measurement. Unless your engine is already real high you should not lose PSI when using positive trim. YOu mentioned your PSI gauge would bounce around a lot when overtrimming. Give me more info. Craig:thumbsup:

[150aintenuff]

OK.so your engine is setback 8.75" but I am not sure what the other measurement is. Earlier in this post I mentioned to measure your propshaft to pad measurement. Unless your engine is already real high you should not lose PSI when using positive trim. YOu mentioned your PSI gauge would bounce around a lot when overtrimming. Give me more info. Craig:thumbsup:


not if his pad to transom length is 9.75.. you hC TO ADD THE 2 TOGETHER...

[cocacola]

OK...please bear with me and my novice experience. the 9-1/4" if how far the notch in transom goes forward when measuring from the transom. then it steps down several inches to the pad. this is where my speedometer and drain plug are.

On measuring from the propshaft to the pad, I assume you want me to measure with engine tilted straight down and where prop butts up against lower unit to the notch in transom where pad is. Does that sound right?

the water pressure gauge is steady about 30psi until I hit a point of too much trim and gauge moves eratically between 15-25 psi. Boat really takes off at this trim level, but I backed off immediately.



OK.so your engine is setback 8.75" but I am not sure what the other measurement is. Earlier in this post I mentioned to measure your propshaft to pad measurement. Unless your engine is already real high you should not lose PSI when using positive trim. YOu mentioned your PSI gauge would bounce around a lot when overtrimming. Give me more info. Craig:thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

OK...please bear with me and my novice experience. the 9-1/4" if how far the notch in transom goes forward when measuring from the transom. then it steps down several inches to the pad. this is where my speedometer and drain plug are.

On measuring from the propshaft to the pad, I assume you want me to measure with engine tilted straight down and where prop butts up against lower unit to the notch in transom where pad is. Does that sound right?

the water pressure gauge is steady about 30psi until I hit a point of too much trim and gauge moves eratically between 15-25 psi. Boat really takes off at this trim level, but I backed off immediately.


What we are trying to determine is what your porpshaft height is in relation to the bottom of the pad. I was instructed to take a measurement in this fashion: Make sure you boat/trailer is setting on a level surface. Crawl under the boat and put a level on the actual "V" of the bottom of the pad and have someone crank the trailer stand up or down to get the pad level. Now measure the distance from the ground up to the very bottom of the pad below the drain plug and write it down. Now trim the engine down and place a level on the cavitation plate so that you may level the engine. Now measure from the ground up to the very point of the bullet (which should be the center of the propshaft) and write it down. I have been told that it is more accurate to remove the prop and measure to the center of the shaft. Subtract the 2 numbers and this is your prop to pad distance or propshaft engine height. Most guys here will need that info to help you determine this propshaft height in relation to your overall engine setback. Maybe 150aintenuff will offer advice at this point and help me out. I know he helped me in determing my prefered setback etc. For example, due to the increased flow of water to my lower with the inlet plates I can now raise my engine up to propshaft below pad at just a hair over 1.5" and still maintain 20PSI. The boat really responds well there and best speeds with more neutral trim. No chine walk either. Thanks to the info I received here from guys like 150aintenuff. Craig:thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

not if his pad to transom length is 9.75.. you hC TO ADD THE 2 TOGETHER...


HI 150aintenuff, Help me out here and explain all this. Thanks, Craig :cheers:

[84CHKMATE]

Got the boat in the water yesterday,
HOLY MOLEY do these scoops work great !!!!!!! :thumbsup:
I can't believe how much pressure there is with the engine all the way up ! And it just stays constant.
I was moving along raising the motor, keeping an eye on the pressure gauge, when I saw how great the pressure was I looked at the speedo and was at 75 & I believe there's more left ! (The motor is mounted as high up as it'll go on the hyd jackplate) I also was trying the 26 chopper for the 1st time, I think this is the keeper, decent holeshot and I think the top end is going to surprise me when I get it opened up. I'm definitely going to hang on to the 24, and might keep the 28 in case of a river trip (too much prop for my little lake here, but with these scoops on now I'd sure like to pop on the 28, get on a nice open stretch of river and open er' up !!!)
I'm just amazed at how well the scoops work.
Much Thanks Again for everyones input & help :cheers:

"I love this place, the more I read the more I learn, the more I learn the faster I go" ;)

[[email protected]]

That's awesome Mike!! What are your RPM's at that speed?? What are the recommended R's for that engine? Do you have the oil injection hooked up yet? All these things will determine what you will end up with. Post all your info and these guys here can direct you to your top speed etc. Now that your engine can be raised higher yo will not need as much positive trim to get the most forward thrust out of your HP. Craig :thumbsup:

[200VEGAS]

IVE RAISED THE ENGINE TO LIKE 2" BELOW WITH THE SCOOPS AND SEAM TO HAVE 15 OR SO POUNDS, BUT AT IDLE I ONLY GOT LIKE 3. AND WHEN I FIRST START, NOTHING FOR LIKE 15 SECONDS. IS THIS SOUNDING RIGHT.?
ALSO IF YOU STRIP A HOLE OUT AND NEED TO GO TO A 12-24 WHICH YOU CAN BUY THE TAP/TAP DRILL COMBO AT HOME DEPOT FOR 6-7 BUCKS. I FOUND THE 12-24 X 1/2 (CUT OFF JUST A LITTLE) SCREW CAN BE HARD TO FIND IN STAINLESS. I FOUND A GUY DOWN HERE IN ORLANDO[ HOUSE OF THREADS] HE GAVE ME 10 OV THEM SO IF ANYONE NEEDS ONE OR TWO LEMINO. ILL PUT SOME IN A ENVELOPE. OH YEA, THE BOAT HANDLES BETTER AND GETTS A FEW MORE r'S OUT OF THE HOLE. INTERMITTENT LOSING CYLINDER SITUATION NOW THO.:nonod:

[[email protected]]

not if his pad to transom length is 9.75.. you hC TO ADD THE 2 TOGETHER...


IVE RAISED THE ENGINE TO LIKE 2" BELOW WITH THE SCOOPS AND SEAM TO HAVE 15 OR SO POUNDS, BUT AT IDLE I ONLY GOT LIKE 3. AND WHEN I FIRST START, NOTHING FOR LIKE 15 SECONDS. IS THIS SOUNDING RIGHT.?
ALSO IF YOU STRIP A HOLE OUT AND NEED TO GO TO A 12-24 WHICH YOU CAN BUY THE TAP/TAP DRILL COMBO AT HOME DEPOT FOR 6-7 BUCKS. I FOUND THE 12-24 X 1/2 (CUT OFF JUST A LITTLE) SCREW CAN BE HARD TO FIND IN STAINLESS. I FOUND A GUY DOWN HERE IN ORLANDO[ HOUSE OF THREADS] HE GAVE ME 10 OV THEM SO IF ANYONE NEEDS ONE OR TWO LEMINO. ILL PUT SOME IN A ENVELOPE. OH YEA, THE BOAT HANDLES BETTER AND GETTS A FEW MORE r'S OUT OF THE HOLE. INTERMITTENT LOSING CYLINDER SITUATION NOW THO.:nonod:

Glad to hear the scoops work. It is normal for the PSI to be low at idle and low RPM's. I never paid a whole lot of attention to the PSI before I started the process of raising the engine so high cuz the pressure was always up there at WOT. My PSI is low also at lower RPM's and I have been told that is normal. It's high RPM's where you need to be concerned. I too, have extra SS set screws if anyone wants some (for blocking off the inlet holes) cuz I had to buy them by the box. I think there a hundred in each box. I have fine thred and course thread. I also have an extra pair of scoops too. They are for the 225/250HP lower (smaller and silver) if anyone nedds them. What happened to the cylinder? Having trouble before? :(

[200VEGAS]

I BORROWED THIS MOTOR FROM MY SON. HE HADENT USED IT IN A COUPLE YEARS, AND IT SAT FOR A FEW BEFORE THAT. ITS A 82 2.0 THAT HAS GOOD EVEN COMPRESSION, AND 3 WEEKS AGO I REPLACED ALL PLUGS AND WIRES AND IT RAN PRETTY GOOD. THEN THIS WEEK, EVERY TIME I FIRSRT START IT IT DOESNT HIT ON ALL 5. SO I EITHER PLAY WITH THE PLUGS ROR KEEP GASSING IT TIL I FEEL THAT LAST PLUG LIGHT, AND THE R'S GO TO 42 OR SO AND I KNOW ITS GONNA PLANE THAN ITS OK TILL I TURN IT OFF AGAIN.
I TALKED TO MY SON AND HE SAID IT USED TO ALWAYS ACT LIKE THAT, SO IM GOING TO CHECK SPARK WITH TIMING LIGHT, AND MAYBE THINK ITS A COIL OR PROBABLY SWITCH BOX. THAT LITTLE 2 DONT LIKE NO XT BOTTOM OFF THE LINE AT ALL WITH A 24 CHOPPER BACK THERE, BUT RAISING IT UP HELPED SOME THOUGH. GOING TO TRY TO GO HIGHER, BUT ITS NO FUN ON 5:nonod:

[[email protected]]

2.0L what? 150...200...? I have heard that the older 2.0 Liters really liked to run the RPM's high. As long as the oiler is removed and you pre-mix. Post your issues with it on S&F and I am sure you will have a ton of help and get it figured out. I wish I had the knowledge to tear an engine apart and re-build. I was never around anyone with those skills. Last year I purchased a fresh rebuild stock 200 2.5L powerhead and had my local marina swap out my 150 XR4 on my mid. Did a bunch of other mild mods as well but I could have saved myself a ton of money on labor if I had the know how.
What boat are you running it on? How do you like the chopper? I have a Tempest Plus that is my fastest and a TXP O/T4 that is faster out of the hole but not as fast on top end. My bass boat is heavy and needs bow lift. I am happy with the setup now finally but was considering a big ear chopper to see if I could pick up a few more MPH's. :thumbsup:

[200VEGAS]

Yea, i kinda heard that about 2.0s too. About the r's i mean. I think they didnt make a 200 2.0, though the early 175's might have been.
I really like the chopper. I think i need to find a 22 pitch or maybe i could get a little taken out of the 24 that i have now. It could use a little straightening anyway. Im turning the 24 58-5900 r's and i bet i could turn it to 63-6400 without damage. It would come out better as well, with the extra torque of the lowwer pitch.

[[email protected]]

Do you premix or is it oil injected? My friend had an XR2 2.0 150 and turned it 6000 all the time but he had an oil issue and never took care of it and blew it up. I sold him my XR4 2.4 150 powerhead (oil injection still on) and is running real well for him. His gears are the 2.0:1 and it really jumps out of the hole. Yeah, you're right about the lower pitch getting you out of the hole better but you will probably lose top end. I wouldn't go higher than the 5900 RPM's if it is oil injection. What are your gears?

[200VEGAS]

Going to try swapping switch boxs and try it again this weekend. Think i saw 65 last weekend at maybe 6,000 with 6 cyl firing. Felt reeel good actually

[[email protected]]

Honestly, with the 2-1 gears and you drop down to a 22P chopper you will definitely jump out of the hole but you will lose top end. 6000RPM's on the 2.0 150's is nothing if you are premixing oil in the tank. There is a prop selector and slip chart that I will look for and post for ya that I used in determining which prop would suite better with the 2 different gear lower units that I had to try. You will be surprised at how accurate they are and excellent in determining what prop and gears to go with. In your case you are not going to change lowers but you can experiment with different pitches and RPM's number in the chart. Craig :cheers:

[200VEGAS]

I think i changed the wrong one, no diffence. Try the other tonight
you dont think the boat would gain some rpm's and make up for the smaller prop at the top due to less resistance?

[[email protected]]

I think i changed the wrong one, no diffence. Try the other tonight
you dont think the boat would gain some rpm's and make up for the smaller prop at the top due to less resistance?


Here is a link to a prop slip/speed/RPM/Pitch calculator. http://go-fast.com/Prop_Slip_Calculator.htm
I plugged in your numbers that you already mentioned of 6000R's at 65MPH with the 24P chopper and the theoretical speed is 68 with 4% slip. That is extremely good. With 22P I guess at around 6400 RPM's and came up with 67 theoretical speed with the same slip factor. If you want more speed then change to a 1.87 gears and plug the numbers in. That is what I did. Craig:cheers:

[200VEGAS]

sommm aint right. ill have to get gps

[[email protected]]

[QUOTE=200VEGAS;1644468]sommm aint right. ill have to get gps[/QUOTE

OOOHHHHHHHH....You have been going by the speedo, huh? Big difference. At 71.2MPH GPS on my boat was comparable to 80MPH on my speedo thru the lower unit. I am told to expect close to 10% margin of error over 70 on speedo. If I remember correctly, my slip is around 6%. So you may very well be close to that. Keep us posted. I was told that I could turn mine up to 6750 no problem premixing at 40:1 but I would have to drop down to a 21P and according to the prop calc I sent you I would not get the speed. :cheers:

[[email protected]]

FYI.......This may certainly not apply to everyone, but I have a habit of giving my prop a spin with my hand on the trailer after boating and noticed a different sound. Along with the whirrr sound came a bit of a grumble sort of speak (the best way I could describe it) as it slowed down. Now, I swapped this gear case for my old gear case and it was supposed to be good but I discovered after a few trips out that the prop shaft was bent just enough to notice with the naked eye. This was not good so I had it straightenend and reassembled and all was good. I had the mechanic at the marina spin the prop and he too said not good. He suspects that because it had a bent shaft it may have either damaged or worn the carrier bearings just bhind the prop inside. It will be removed and checked this weekend. I'll let ya know what we find out. Always something!! Craig :cheers: :(

[84CHKMATE]

Finally got some decent runs in, still looking for the sweet spot, but ....
with the 24 chopper, motor waaaaay up - 71.9 mph gps with water pressure up the wazoo !!!!!!!! These scoops are great ! What a difference running with it jacked up that high, even with just a 6" setback - Time to play with the 26 & 28 !

How'd you make out with the gearcase Craig ?
I just trashed the 24 prop, whacked a hunk o' somethin, bent one blade and took out the hub - waiting for the call from the prop shop - ouch !!!!!!!!
You're right, it's always something - I guess thats where they came up with the definition of boat,
B.O.A.T = Break Out Another Thousand !!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

[[email protected]]

Well Mike, as my crappy luck would have it...I need all the guts replaced in my lower. The mechanic said I was lucky to have noticed the sound cuz if I didn't the gears would have failed altogether and blown out the side of the case. They said as a result of the original bent shaft issue, one of the gears must have had a hairline crack in it and eventually let loose. They found one large tooth in the housing that was broke off and everthing else buggered up from it banging around in there. Gears shot...bearings shot...seals..and I told them to replace the carrier as well. So, EVERYTHING will be brand new in the case. I swapped this case for my 1.78 lower (which was in excellent condition) from my XR4 and it had the bent prop shaft ehen I got it. Doesn't hurt to be anal about things...at least I caught it when I did. Craig :thumbsup:

I'm glad to hear about your gains with PSI....sorry to hear about the prop. Make sure you send it to someone reliable and knows what theyare doing or you will not be satisified. What motor are you running again? And what are the recommended RPM's. YOu'll find that when you get to the correct engine height that will still maintain good pressure and a prop that will carry the whole boat if you keep to max side of your RPM range you should have max speed. I have found best speeds with my setup at the 6000RPM's for my 200 EFI and my hull.

[200VEGAS]

had a bad stator;.now running 5900 at 62mph on speedo which is 10% slip . thats about right for vegaas right?2.1 2.0 24 chopper about 2" down with scoops. feels very good love thwe boat....

[fbpd227]

After reading ALL this I can't wait to get a set of scoops on mine!!!

[[email protected]]

had a bad stator;.now running 5900 at 62mph on speedo which is 10% slip . thats about right for vegaas right?2.1 2.0 24 chopper about 2" down with scoops. feels very good love thwe boat....

That sounds good 200vegas. Keep an eye on your PSI and depending on how much positive trim you use you may be able to get a bit higher. Does the boat feel lighter up there and controllable? Did you use a slip calc to get the 10%? If so, then you are dialed in. :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

After reading ALL this I can't wait to get a set of scoops on mine!!!


World of difference if you are wanting the best performance out of your rig. Always have to think safety and watch your water pressure at those heights.

[fbpd227]

I have been "gathering" parts since I bought my Enchanter- 10" setback JP, 200HP Merc ( vs. the old 50HP it came with ) controls, gauges, etc... and I wasn't sure if I should get the plates righht off the bat or not- but after reading all this I believe I will do it now before her maiden voyage ( from me anyhow) so I won't have to go back and do it later.

[fbpd227]

I still need to finish getting some more parts ( prop, steering cables - longer anyhow) and while I have the time on the hill, I might as well be slammin the pates to her too! LOL!

[[email protected]]

I have been "gathering" parts since I bought my Enchanter- 10" setback JP, 200HP Merc ( vs. the old 50HP it came with ) controls, gauges, etc... and I wasn't sure if I should get the plates righht off the bat or not- but after reading all this I believe I will do it now before her maiden voyage ( from me anyhow) so I won't have to go back and do it later.

Do a search for a member that goes by camaro7081. His name is Glenn and is a good guy and knows checkmates. He had his really burning up the water and would offer suggestions for you. Checkmates are pretty good boats.

[[email protected]]

I still need to finish getting some more parts ( prop, steering cables - longer anyhow) and while I have the time on the hill, I might as well be slammin the pates to her too! LOL!

YOu won't regret putting the inlet plates on!:thumbsup:

[fbpd227]

Thanx Astro!

[[email protected]]

Thanx Astro!

Keep us posted on your progress! :thumbsup:

[CRMERC]

If you see me again down a saunders I will let you try some props or a gearcase with a nosecone Carl

[200VEGAS]

the scoops work great and the boat really drives nice with engine up at about 2 down. tried a 24 trophy yesterday and it didnt come out to good, but probably about as good as the 24 chopper. i guess i will just have to hunt down a 22 when i get some green. the trophy didnt carry the bow as well and it was porpousing pretty bad with 4 adults one 8yrold and 3 coolers and a full tank. guess it aint to bad a boat if you need to haul some people. i think the height keeps the bobs plate from doing much till the trim is like all the way under. but if you keep it above like 35mph it is ok you can trim up

[[email protected]]

Hey Guy's, Here's an update on my plates. running down the lake up to the max height for 12-14PSI and I noticed something different and quickly looked down at the gauge......dropped below 10PSI and instantly throttled back. No big deal right? Couldn't get the pressure back up so I decided I had enough for the day anyway so back on the trailer. Put the motor toter on and noticed the one inlet plate folded back. The bottom screw head sheered off then it let go. that was a SS screw!! Drilled it out and replaced with the next size up. Keep an eye on these guys like maybe snugging up the screws one in a while. Craig :thumbsup:

[cocacola]

Valuable information. Thank you. I put a screw on torque tab this Summer and have been keeping an eye on it. As an added measure of safety, I JB Welded the underside and faired it in with JB Weld too. Of course Loctite was added to those tiny screws.

I wanted to get some plates like that, but we mostly ski and my engine is in lowest mounting holes...so I might not do it.


Hey Guy's, Here's an update on my plates. running down the lake up to the max height for 12-14PSI and I noticed something different and quickly looked down at the gauge......dropped below 10PSI and instantly throttled back. No big deal right? Couldn't get the pressure back up so I decided I had enough for the day anyway so back on the trailer. Put the motor toter on and noticed the one inlet plate folded back. The bottom screw head sheered off then it let go. that was a SS screw!! Drilled it out and replaced with the next size up. Keep an eye on these guys like maybe snugging up the screws one in a while. Craig :thumbsup:

[[email protected]]

Yep cocacola, your probably correct. If you are just cruising and skiig etc. and no WOT need for every MPH then I would not either. The torque tab you installed, I assume you mean for the skeg. Good idea. I too installed one with the supplied pop rivets and JB welded as you described. Years ago I had one that came off it was just pop riveted. Hope you had a great summer. Too bad it has come to an end so soon. I was just starting to have fun and it's about over. Oh well, another long wait til next spring. Later...Craig :thumbsup:

[200VEGAS]

Hey astro, how high are you pad to cl

[[email protected]]

Hey astro, how high are you pad to cl

Hi 200vegas, On my present boat I am at 2" below pad with very little trim. Meaning, I have not been able to reach neutral engine trim at that engine height without losing PSI. I just bought an Allison and this is a totally different animal. There is so much natural lift built into this hull that as soon as I try to trim up at that height I lose pressure. So I bring it down a bit and trim more but lose speed and handling. I am now looking at a cone job and LWP over the winter months to tke full advantage of this hull. How are you doing with your setup? Any problems? Craig :cheers:

[200VEGAS]

not yet, i will try to go up a little more. at 2 3/4 now, but back 12". ally, huh astro. i always wanted to drive one of those. who knows, maybe one day....

[[email protected]]

Do you have a hydraulic JP? If so it makes adjustments on the fly much more easily. Measure it at 2" prop shaft to pad on level surface and take notice to the JP guage where that is. Now go out and run at that height gradually trimming as you go and watch your PSI. See how the boat responds and how it handles.
gradually go up in height and trim til you notice any other changes and always watch PSI.
I love this Ally! It is a fun boat and extremely functional as a fishing machine. So much lift to the hull really get her up and running. I am learning all over again. FUN!!
Craig :D

[200VEGAS]

manual plate, had it out yesterday, and with a 150(135), got 62.7 out of a 24 trophy with a rider, and 64.4 alone. thats movin pretty good for a 20' boat rated for 235hp. i didnt have wrenchs for height adjustment, but i did notice my water pressure going from 9 to 12 down to 9 up to 12 rapidly like i had a porpoise so i trimmed in a little and no difference. weird, huh

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Do not let your PSI drop below 10-12. Your gauge is working correctly, right? Then you may need to drop your JP down .25" at a time and/or make sure you are not overtrimming your engine, meaning rooster tail should not be higher than your engine.

[200VEGAS]

i am running about 3' rooster and motor to look back looks level. did your wp stay steady or did it move up and down like that

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The only time it moved liked that was when I was on the very edge of engine trim and JP height and no room for error. If I even made a slight turn the PSI would change drastically. I could sometimes improve speed when running on the very edge of adjustments if I used a bit less positive engine trim like you described and increased JP height a bump at a time. Higher JP height and a bit less trim means less hull drag. All this learned from my own experiments. The scoops are great for this but if ya get too brave it could cost ya a powerhead. So that is why I used them for higher average running heights and still kept safe PSI for better all around performance over the stock inlets. I am going for a nosecone and LWP this winter. I need to for my boat now. :thumbsup:

[triplethreat0809]

what do the scoops do

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what do the scoops do


They are plates that are attached over the inlet holes in the lower unit so that while running thru the water at elevated heights they actually force the water directly into the inlet holes. Just like ram air on a car. They are made for the 8 hole lowers as well as the 250's,,,2 different sets though.

[triplethreat0809]

thks does some one have pics of before and after does it help make up 4 low water pic up

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thks does some one have pics of before and after does it help make up 4 low water pic up

Go back to page 3 of this post and you will see the plates on my lower. The finish is scuffed up from doing some other things but you can see how they cover the inlets. There is a narrow opening between the plates and the case which to my surprise is more than adequate for water flow. The installation of these plates will help you raise the engine higher than normal but will not replace the benefit of a nosecone with LWP's. I installed these when my engine was on my Astro to help raise my engine a bit higher but if you have a hull that will benefit running the propshaft much closer to the pad height then you will be better off with a nosecone.

[flhomesite]

I have a quad setup and I added jackplates and plate/scoops. My issue is all motors except one of the center engines has an issue holding water pressure. What could be the cause? The other center engine has plenty of PSI. With the engines lower I get PSI in the engine with the issue.

I just noticed I had a good bend in the leading edge of the prop in that engine. Could that cause any of the PSI issues at high speed?

[Mr. Demeanor]

Homey, where is your livewell/raw water pickup? Is it in front of that motor? Is your transducer in front of that motor?
Your at the righ site now. Maybe start a thread about your boat and your setup issues. I think you will find a lot more kowledge here.

[flhomesite]

Good thinking on the raw water pickup.

It is in front of the motors right in the center, BUT, I thought of that also and shortened it so it is above the bottom of the hull now. The transducer is on the other side of the hull just in front of the console.