1980 Hydrostream Viper w/1500XS "new project"

[Viper Bud]

Hi ALL,
I found a 15ft Hydrostream in need of some major TLC. It has been sitting at a marina for 3 years full of leaves and water and rotton seats & flooring. I couldn't help myself...It kept calling to me...HELP ME, HELP ME!
I struck a deal to get it away from the guy letting it die a sad death.
The motor was not stuck and I was told nothing was broken...health issues was the reason the boat sat for so long. I have never seen a 15ft Viper and I love the 1500XS motors...(I have a 850XS but it's been moth-balled for an other project.)
Anyway...I was told the boat did about 72mph when last run. Shortshaft motor on a long shaft boat....I guess no jack-plate required. It came with 3 cleaver props....not sure the pitch yet...just towed the project home today. It has dual stearing cable system & Hot foot. The windsheild is in perfect condition...hard to believe! The finish has been clear coated long ago and the boat needs total refinishing. I will have questions about that topic later. Trailer is pretty sad looking but restorable. I'm really happy to have found the project and hope I can make it right. If any of you have any advice about this package ...I would like to hear it. Most of the Merc wiring is toast....seems all the old Mercs get like that. Anyone know where to get new...or is it better to just re-wire myself. Trim & tilt is not working and will need total rebuild. Tilt & trim switch is on the Steering wheel. Someone put a sting ray foil on the lower unit...which is fine for under-powered fishing boats I guess. I think they slow fast boats down. I guess this package won't be easy to control and I will need help setting it up right. I have seen a couple of Hydrostream Vipers on You tube and can't believe my eyes....I am totally amazed at how well they seem to run. I'm sure it takes a good driver and a well set up boat...I'm just so impressed every time I watch two of those boats "FLYING" across the water with less than 20" of boat in the water...well...that's what it looks like to me.
I read one of you guys had 15 of these old 1500XS motors...which means either their cheap junk and no one wants them OR you a dam smart guy and very lucky at finding these cool looking motors. I sure could use some advice from you. I don't want to cause this motor any damage...so I plan to do the regular matainance, water pump, compression check, clean carbs, lower unit service, etc.
Well enough talk for now...I hope I can count on you guys for some help & advice along the way...
Bud :thumbsup:

[oldskier]

Oh Bud, welcome to SnF and condolences, you will likely be enslaved to your little project for quite a while. You are embarking on an education in hot boats. I'll let the wrench guys tell you about the motor, but the hull is no doubt gonna need a lot of attention. You will be hearing from Riverman, Sonik, Quinten, Maple Leaf, Streamin101, and probably Matt Gent and others about whats ahead of you to get the hull safe. We've all been through it or are going through it right now.

BTW, The whale tail shouldn't be a problem. Ronnie's infamous "worlds fastest Viper" ran 108 with one on it....it's WELL out of the water when the boat's on the pad.

Congrats, you've come to the right place.

Where in n. Ga. are you? Not on Chatuge by chance?

Bernie


The old streams just KEEP coming out of the woodwork!!!

[king gill]

HYDROSTREAMS ROCK:thumbsup:FUN FUN FUN:D

[RONNIE]

better go get youself a new grinder and some suits!!! your going to itch!!

[Raceman]

to me.
I read one of you guys had 15 of these old 1500XS motors...which means either their cheap junk and no one wants them OR you a dam smart guy and very lucky at finding these cool looking motors. I sure could use some advice from you. I don't want to cause this motor any damage...so I plan to do the regular matainance, water pump, compression check, clean carbs, lower unit service, etc.
Well enough talk for now...I hope I can count on you guys for some help & advice along the way...
Bud :thumbsup:

I'm the guy with about 15 or 16 1500XS's. They ain't cheap junk that nobody wants, and I ain't all that smart, I just like em and buy 'em whenever I come across one that's halfway reasonable. I guess they're probably my favorite Merc of all times.

The internal harnesses are available from Rapair and chances are the stator and trigger may have the same wiring problems. I think Rapair will rewire those two pieces also.

The formula for a long life with an inline 1500, be it a std one or an XS is always the same................. good gas (minimum of Super Unleaded) good oil (I run full synthetic in mine at 32:1) not too much timing...... 21º works, frequent water pumps and don't over pitch em where they can't turn up around 6000 at full throttle. It's better to turn em a little harder than that than any less if you have to make the choice. If you're starting with an engine in decent shape they'll last forever if used this way.

[JWTjr.]

how many there are in existence before you get surprised about how many come out of the woodwork (ouch...not a good pun, especially if you're digging rotten wood out of one right now!). In their heyday, HydroStream made between 800 and 1100 boats per year (that was in 1978-79-80). Even in the worst years, they made well over 150 boats per year. Consider that in the years where they made between 500-1100 boats, the only models were Vandal, Viper, Ventura, Vamp, Vector, Varmint, Viking, Vulture and Venus, and the only colors were metalflake. In those years, the most popular models were Viper, Vector and Viking. Muscle Boats on Long Island (largest of over 50 dealers nationwide in those days) had a standing truckload order--and a truckload was 9 boats. He'd tell Howard "just mix up the colors and ship 'em". Long Island was absolutely full of Streams, as was Minnesota (of course), Wisconsin, Illinois, New York, Florida, Texas, Michigan and Louisiana. Dealers in those states sold literally dozens of Streams per year. It's not odd that there are still a lot of them left.

JT

[oldskier]

how many there are in existence before you get surprised about how many come out of the woodwork (ouch...not a good pun, especially if you're digging rotten wood out of one right now!). In their heyday, HydroStream made between 800 and 1100 boats per year (that was in 1978-79-80). Even in the worst years, they made well over 150 boats per year. Consider that in the years where they made between 500-1100 boats, the only models were Vandal, Viper, Ventura, Vamp, Vector, Varmint, Viking, Vulture and Venus, and the only colors were metalflake. In those years, the most popular models were Viper, Vector and Viking. Muscle Boats on Long Island (largest of over 50 dealers nationwide in those days) had a standing truckload order--and a truckload was 9 boats. He'd tell Howard "just mix up the colors and ship 'em". Long Island was absolutely full of Streams, as was Minnesota (of course), Wisconsin, Illinois, New York, Florida, Texas, Michigan and Louisiana. Dealers in those states sold literally dozens of Streams per year. It's not odd that there are still a lot of them left.

JT

You're right John, but you gotta admit, there's been a rash of 'em showing up here lately. Maybe these guys are like me, living their second childhood.:D

[JWTjr.]

You're right John, but you gotta admit, there's been a rash of 'em showing up here lately. Maybe these guys are like me, living their second childhood.:D

Very true. I'm living proof too. Can't seem to stop buying boats from my youth.

JT

[Hydrophobic guy]

Maybe these guys are like me, living their second childhood.:D

Or,
After gettin rid of my X that was one of the first things on the list.
Get a Viper, slap a V6 on her back and have at it. :thumbsup:

Oh, welcome to the asylum Viper Bud remember to take your meds.

[Riverman]

The old streams just KEEP coming out of the woodwork!!!Yeah, no kidding. VB, show us some pics!

[Wild Wil]

welcome to the fun and madness of 2 stroke... good luck with the redo

[Capt.Insane-o]

Awesome, another one! The perfect motor for the perfect boat. Many pics plz! :)

[Denny <><]

Viper bud, congrats on your find. Welcome to S/F, hope the best on your project.
Like RONNIE said your gonna itch. The boat is well worth the redo, Hydros are very beautiful boats. The XS motor is a good find also.

[Denny <><]

I'm the guy with about 15 or 16 1500XS's. They ain't cheap junk that nobody wants, and I ain't all that smart, I just like em and buy 'em whenever I come across one that's halfway reasonable. I guess they're probably my favorite Merc of all times.

The internal harnesses are available from Rapair and chances are the stator and trigger may have the same wiring problems. I think Rapair will rewire those two pieces also.

The formula for a long life with an inline 1500, be it a std one or an XS is always the same................. good gas (minimum of Super Unleaded) good oil (I run full synthetic in mine at 32:1) not too much timing...... 21º works, frequent water pumps and don't over pitch em where they can't turn up around 6000 at full throttle. It's better to turn em a little harder than that than any less if you have to make the choice. If you're starting with an engine in decent shape they'll last forever if used this way.

Good info on the inline motors, my 1978 90 horse still runs strong doing what you described.
Who is Rapair? I need a wiring harness for my 150. Do they have a web site? I'm sure Viper Bud will need this also.

[Viper Bud]

Hi Bernie,
Thanks for the reply...I boat on Chatuge & Nottely...I live in Blairsville. Why do you ask? Are you in this area? That would be great to find someone in these hills that had the same interest.
Yeah your right about the Whale tail / Sting Ray...I have not owned a motor that rides high and forgot it would be out of the water. 108 MPH OMG!
Thanks for the welcome.....I plan to dig into the boat today to see if I made a good buy or not. I don't mind putting a floor in ...but Balsa core replacement will be a major job ...won't it?
Bud

[Viper Bud]

Thanks for the advice RACEMAN...I was just being a wise guy in my comments about them being junk and unwanted. You have given me some very important points about the engine and I thank you. Glad to here Rapair can help me with parts....having a small marine business willl save me some money...you don't get rich working for yourself.....so anything I can by at dealer cost is a big help.
Thanks very much for the advice Sir! Looks like I came to the right place.
Bud

[oldskier]

Hi Bernie,
Thanks for the reply...I boat on Chatuge & Nottely...I live in Blairsville. Why do you ask? Are you in this area? That would be great to find someone in these hills that had the same interest.
Yeah your right about the Whale tail / Sting Ray...I have not owned a motor that rides high and forgot it would be out of the water. 108 MPH OMG!
Thanks for the welcome.....I plan to dig into the boat today to see if I made a good buy or not. I don't mind putting a floor in ...but Balsa core replacement will be a major job ...won't it?
Bud

Yes, but well worth it. Likely a transom replacement too. MANY have done it and you can too, it can be done many ways. Look at recore threads in the Fiberglass Discussions section, I have a thread, and so do all the others I mentioned in my 1st post. EVERYONE is very helpful and somewhat opinionated on how to do it. Read the threads and make your own decision. Like I said, your education is just beginning. I have mine done and consider myself a sophomore....

I am in the same mountains about 160 miles away but I go to Hiawassee every year to a British bike rally and have always wanted to get a boat on Lake Chatuge. It's a beautiful area. You are as close to me as anyone I've seen on this site and I would love to come down and get with another Viper owner and run both boats!

Here's links to a few recore threads to see what you've gotten yourself in to.

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138615

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127688

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=151280

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144414

Also check Rivermans link to his recore in his post, he went all the way on his education and documentation.

Bernie

[Sonik]

Again,

Welcome to S&F Bud. As to the question about a recore.....yes, it is a fairly in-depth, itchy, dirty, heartbreaking, itchy, (did i mention itchy) process but from what I gather about your feelings for the boat, you'll fit right in around here. I was fortunate and found what started as one soft spot (now a complete recore) when rigging mine with a V6. I was sure it was solid (and it was for the most part, just wet) but as we all know now, I was sadly mistaken. You'll find more knowledge, experience, and genuine good people here, than anywhere else on the net, bar none. Theres nothing like the sound of a pissed inline screaming across the water. As I said, welcome to the madness!! We need some PICS man PICS!!!

JT - I agree its no suprise there alot of old school 'Streams around. BUT, finding one NOT in need of serious TLC is virtually unheard of as we know. The best part of this, in my mind, is not that there are so many still around, resurfacing, etc etc... its that the owners manage to find their way here to S&F to share their passion for performance boating, which is a testment to Greg and company for the job well done providing us a forum to do so. :thumbsup:


Jeff

[Fasttoys]

Bud,
I purchased a Viper and have owned it for 2 summers now. I didn't have to restore it because it was in OK shape already but I did learn a lot from this websight. Most everyone is friendly and very helpful. I had never owned a pad vee or ran a motor so high that the prop was "surfaced". (which is where you'll be at) Your in for a treat.
Yea, Ronnie's a little nuts (108 mph) but he know's his zhit. Along with a bunch of others on this sight. (Too many to list)
My goal was to get mine to run 85 plus and I did it with these guys help pretty quickly considering I was a rookie to pad vee's. Good luck.

Steve :cheers:

[Viper Bud]

Well.....You guys are right on the money....I cut the floor out and the foam was soaked full of water... The core area has that dead hollow/rot wood sound too. I gues I'm in for a little work. I gues it's time to set the trailer up right to hold the boat correctly or should I set the boat hull on it's outer edges....I'll read up on what you guys have already discussed in your posts. Thanks for the links Bernie.
The engine checked out OK so far...125psi on each cylinder and the lower unit had NO water it....I fogged the plug holes as well as in each carb...hope I got some oil on the crank bearings ok. I was told the carbs were drained....so maybe they won't be to bad. Well I guess if I get busy now, I should have it ready to play next season.
Bud

[Viper Bud]

Hi Steve,
2.4 200hp Merc on a 15ft boat 87.1 MPH.... I am totally amazed it's possible...It either means you guys are CRAZY or Hydrosteram made one hell of a hull....or maybe a little of both. This sounds like one hell of an adventure ahead. If it gets my heart pounding like when I drive my 440hp Duster 4 speed...then I'm really looking forward to the rush. I'm sure there will be a learning curve and plenty of questions. I'm very gratefull I found a good group of pros to sound off of.
Thanks guys!
Bud

[Sonik]

Well.....You guys are right on the money....I cut the floor out and the foam was soaked full of water... The core area has that dead hollow/rot wood sound too. I gues I'm in for a little work. I gues it's time to set the trailer up right to hold the boat correctly or should I set the boat hull on it's outer edges....I'll read up on what you guys have already discussed in your posts. Thanks for the links Bernie.
The engine checked out OK so far...125psi on each cylinder and the lower unit had NO water it....I fogged the plug holes as well as in each carb...hope I got some oil on the crank bearings ok. I was told the carbs were drained....so maybe they won't be to bad. Well I guess if I get busy now, I should have it ready to play next season.
Bud

I was in denial too when I started my project. Check out my thread and you can see how I set up my trailer for the rebuild. I rigged 7 bunks, which in hindsight, was seriously overengineered after checking out other methods used in Viper resto's. The bunks on my trailer stop around the seatbox ( innermost bunks being longest, outermost being shortest) and I've cut a jig that will sit on the trailer rails and support the forward portion of the hull, port to starboard once I remove the bulkhead, airbox, and core under the deck. Again, my method is by no means THE way to do it, but I'm a firm believer, overbuilding hurts nothing and I don't like doing things twice.

I think you have an idea what you're in for now so get all the rigging/motor out/off the hull and get to it!! I want to see that thing floating next summer when I go crash Bernie's(Oldskier) pad....oops..so much for the element of suprise :thumbsup:

What does the gel look like?? Are you planning to do the recore without splitting the boat? does it have the original aluminum rubrail? Windshield and frame still on the boat?


Jeff

[mdc]

Good info on the inline motors, my 1978 90 horse still runs strong doing what you described.
Who is Rapair? I need a wiring harness for my 150. Do they have a web site? I'm sure Viper Bud will need this also.
Rapair is now CDI Electronics http://cdielectronics.com/Home/tabid/36/language/en-US/Default.aspx

[Viper Bud]

Hey guys,
I tried to upload photos....My camera is set to the lowest res but the upload file size was still too big to up-load on this site I guess. Now what? I want you guys to see what I'm starting with.

[Sonik]

there is a thread on posting pictures stickied here...

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144623

This is by far the easiest way to do it. Upload them and then do an offsite link to the pics you want in your post....easy peasy :D


I take all my pics at max rez.....upload them @ 800 x 600 which fits the template of the boards well so you dont have any horizontal scroll bar across the bottom from oversized pics...
Jeff

[Viper Bud]

Thanks Jeff!
I hope I did it right....anyway...take a look...don't laff...it's a start. You rig is mighty fine looking. Jacked up a little ain't it? I can't wait to be sitting in mine as you are in yours. Very cool.
Yep...I'm going back to the shop and start pulling the motor off. I kinda hope I can leave the two halves together. I'll know more in a couple of hours.
Thanks again for the help Jeff.
Bud


http://tinypic.com/yourstuff.php?page=1

[Fasttoys]

Hi Steve,
2.4 200hp Merc on a 15ft boat 87.1 MPH.... I am totally amazed it's possible...It either means you guys are CRAZY or Hydrosteram made one hell of a hull....or maybe a little of both. This sounds like one hell of an adventure ahead. If it gets my heart pounding like when I drive my 440hp Duster 4 speed...then I'm really looking forward to the rush. I'm sure there will be a learning curve and plenty of questions. I'm very gratefull I found a good group of pros to sound off of.
Thanks guys!
Bud

Oh man.......if you think a 440 Duster with a 4 speed gets your heart rate up then your in for a surprise! When you get this rig going 80 something it's 10x more exciting than your average old musclecar!......not to mention 10x harder to drive! It'll take some seat time but as Ronnie told me..."there's nothing else like it". Of course his 108 mph:eek: "nothing else like it" is slightly different than my 87 mph experiences. :cheers:

[Riverman]

I hope I did it right....anyway...take a look...don't laff...it's a start.Now, copy the code under your pic (in tinypic) that says "direct link". Click on the button just above the reply box with the little mountain in it. Then paste that code in the box that opens.

[Sonik]

Well I'll be dipped in...........

I'm at work and see this message alot in the strangest places. Who knew that tinypic.com had porn??

[Quinten]

Subscribed, waiting on the pics?

[RONNIE]

why am I the crazy one all the time!!!

[Sonik]

......because thats the price you pay for being on top Ronald........

[RONNIE]

top of what sarg a pile of crap?/ Where is my care package??

[Pro300x24LD]

why am I the crazy one all the time!!!look in avatar!!!!

[RONNIE]

come on man thats just a little starting line pic!!! You had to ride in it to get the full effect!!!

[Pro300x24LD]

come on man thats just a little starting line pic!!! You had to ride in it to get the full effect!!!
I scare myself enough in 24 feet of boat, I'll pass :D

I did drive a buddies viper at 55-60 before I got my boat and it was a rush, Hopefully some day I can add a viper to my fleet also :thumbsup:

[Viper Bud]

Are you guy telling me that the link http://tinypic.com/yourstuff.php?page=1 I posted does not work and does not send you to my 24 Photos???
Please let me know....I don't know what I missed?
Bud

[oldskier]

Bud, nope, just goes to the tinypic home page.

Try copying the url of one pic in tinypics. Just right click the pic, then select 'copy image location'. Then click on the icon in your reply that looks like a yellow square with a mountain in it and right click where it says 'please enter the url of your image' and click paste.http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x10/bernieallan/DSCN0125-1-1.jpg?t=1228536008

[Viper Bud]

Sorry guys!
I'm trying to figure this out....for some reason I don't see the stuff you talking about on the page with the photos. I work with my hands Not my brain. I'm going to get it sooner or later.
http://i33.tinypic.com/k4uh76.jpg
http://tinypic.com/3ia0l214
http://s4.tinypic.com/xlhwme_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbloDp6Oh6dNw%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/21lvhvm_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sYGlhVXmX6LtQ%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/14ux5pv_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sapnr4VheqKtg%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/ixz2vd_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbfvL4D9MwDBA%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2s9ete0_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sZDA3iogs%2FLZg%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2m76mhl_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sa2l8qxIVsWow%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/nceb1l_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9saW%2B8KSdU5tCg%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/k4uh76_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbtOFJzorf7Bw%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/4uuud4_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sZ8Iwlp%2B8iZ8w%3D%3D)

http://s4.tinypic.com/2zof1bq_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9saz7tLtjPC%2FBg%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2ajnhqp_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sYKFfUmTpqwxQ%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/290woqt_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sYhXWp6vZEwRQ%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2uixe8p_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sakoeA0iY5riQ%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/xlhwme_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbloDp6Oh6dNw%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/23u4dmo_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbzyduW5SOs%2Bw%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/bdnlua_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sYOXBX7htMvrg%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/10eotbd_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbUvSjRF03d1w%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2na7mh5_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=uLE3QGiM9sbH4gQN0qoZjw%3D%3D)

Sorry to have to do it this way....Like they say.....Ya gotta be as smart as the tool your using.... Well....I ain't that smart yet.

I went back up last night and cut more floor out and started on removing the Balsa core areas... The fact that the balsa was brown paste made it easy to sawzall the glass skin off it. I'm going to try to do the job leaving the tow halves together. I guess we use the fiberglass pin core material in place of the Balsa...Right?

I'm gona be gone the next two days taking a gun safety course and get my carring permit before smeone passes a law saying you can't. So I won't be able to reply until I get back home tonight.

I can't tell you guys want it means to me to have someone to back me up during this project. Living up in the mountains with lakes is wonderfull.....but being able to make friends with people who have the same interest all over the country is pretty cool too.
Thanks Guys!
Bud


Bud

[Capt.Insane-o]

You can bet your bottom the core is all rotted in that boat. Judging by the condition it will make for a very easy removal though, and that is 75% of the battle. Still a very good project to do. I'd love to find one with a xs still on it. Balsa is cheap use that again for core. Personally I use a foam coring material, but to each their own. Hell you got a good selection of props with it too, Nice find!

[Sonik]

Ahhh....

Another bruiser boat. You're gonna have your hands full with that one Bud, but it'll be worth it for sure. Easiest way I found was just using a skil saw set shallow as you've done and a 3.5" cutoff wheel to remove the inner skin. After that, its grinder time to remove excess core, core bond, and misc adhesive, junk, etc etc. I chose that method because I was afraid of cutting through the bottom....and since i'm not doing a repaint/regel, I chose to err on the safe side and take a little more time on the demo.


EDIT: Last pic looks like your stringers are boxed in along the pad. I've never seen one put together like this but I'm by no means an expert with these boats. And actually, it looks to me as if your floor section is significantly wider than mine......And you have individual seat boxes for both front seats instead of one large box spanning the width of the interior like mine.

http://i38.tinypic.com/143lxjb.jpg

[RONNIE]

that looks like an 80's boat lke my brown one

[Streamin101]

What props are in the photos?

[SnakeBit]

Once you are finished with the project remember this. There are those who own classic Streams and those who wish they did including me!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Capt.Insane-o]

V-king went to paint so I drug this in, it's been in the archives awhile.. wondered where that tape measure was at..

[oldskier]

Bud, I'd say you're making the right decision to keep the deck on and recore from the inside. It looks like the gel and rubrail can be saved and you will have a beautiful 'Bruiser' colored Viper when you're done. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and be able to save the transom like Riverman did.

Looks like somebody knew how to take care of it at one time in it's life, if the rubrail is as good as it looks in the pics. Don't know which color I like better, bruiser or that funky 'ernge on Sonik's boat!:D

[oldskier]

"I think you have an idea what you're in for now so get all the rigging/motor out/off the hull and get to it!! I want to see that thing floating next summer when I go crash Bernie's(Oldskier) pad....oops..so much for the element of suprise :thumbsup:"

Jeff, I almost skipped over this statement! I'd be pickeled tink to have you, lets get it planned! If I stay employed, I'll schedule some time off and after we aggravate Bud enough to get his finished, we can blitzkreig somebodys lake around here with 3 Vipers!:eek::eek::eek:

[Viper Bud]

Hi guys!
I started stripping the poorly applied clear coat that may have protected the old gel coat for a while. You say the factory color is "Brusier"? I would prefer having a factory gel-coat finish rather than a automotive finish...if I can. I haven't found any paint that seems to hold up to long term water soaking on the bottom side without blistering.
I was going to build a bench style front seat to make the hull stronger and be able to sit in the center,if riding by myself for better ballence. Good idea or not?
I haven't got to the transom to see if it is rotton yet. I think the two side flotation boxes are still in good shape with no water soakage so far.
Hope to get the motor pulled tomorrow and start looking at why the tilt/trim motor is not working. Likely it got water in it.
I don't know what the other props are yet...but will check them out as well.
I check on the wiring harness from CDI and I was quoted $168....I may just replace each wire one at a time using a good marine tinned wire and soldered terminals.
I was wondering where you guys put your fuel tank/weight..in the bow..or kept it aft in front of the engine?
I did find two short cracks in the windsheild comming from the two most outter pop rivets. I drilled about a 16th" or less hole at the end of the crack in hopes of stopping it. Is there any other tricks to re-glue the cracks?
I was also wondering if they still make replacement steering cables for the old dual teleflex rack & pinion system? Mine seem pretty stiff...I'm not sure if that is normal or not.
I'm going to try and learn why my photos link still is not working..I would like to share the progress as I restore the boat.
I would really like to get together with any of the members this summer if possible...I'm sure I will need help & advice in getting the boat dialed in and it would really be cool to have someone who knows these boats and how they handle close at hand.
I hope to learn how to post better too. I'm not sure how to answer a question from someone with a quote but I will get it sooner or later.
I've taken a few balsa core removal photos that I though I would post...but I need to learn the tinyphotos link system or this website photo.
Enough for now...Thanks for the feedback Guys!
Bud

[RONNIE]

thats a mercury ride guide steering setup and cables are still availible from merc at a good price.

[oldskier]

"I haven't found any paint that seems to hold up to long term water soaking on the bottom side without blistering."
You won't and you don't want to for two reasons. 1.You don't want to leave a cored boat in the water too long. Contrary to popular belief, polyester boat resin is NOT waterproof. It takes some time, but water WILL find it's way in to the core.2.Gel coat is made to spray on the inside of a PERFECTLY SMOOTH mold. When you spray it on the outside of something, the imperfections are HARD AS ROCK and take a lot of finish sanding to make smooth. It can be done but you will need to just drop your wallet off wherever you buy sandpaper.

"I was going to build a bench style front seat to make the hull stronger and be able to sit in the center,if riding by myself for better ballence. Good idea or not?"

If I had it to do over (I might someday) thats exactly what I would do. You might want to build the early style seat platform. Not only allows your bench but also adds structural strength.

"I was wondering where you guys put your fuel tank/weight..in the bow..or kept it aft in front of the engine?"

Definitely the rear if you want to go fast. Got to get the bow up and the boat sitting on the last couple feet of the pad.

"I would really like to get together with any of the members this summer if possible...I'm sure I will need help & advice in getting the boat dialed in and it would really be cool to have someone who knows these boats and how they handle close at hand."

Me too, but I won't be much help with setup yet, still dialing mine in and learning to drive it.

"I've taken a few balsa core removal photos that I though I would post...but I need to learn the tinyphotos link system or this website photo."

OK, Step by step.

1.Go to your thread in scream and fly and click 'post reply'
2.Type in whatever you want to say about the pics. Then minimize that window.
3.Open another browser session, Internet Explorer or Mozilla or whatever you use and go to your tinypic site.
4.Open the pic full size in tinypic.
5.Right click anywhere in the pic and you will see a menu.
6.Left click the menu item 'copy image location'. (This copies the URL of the picture to your computers 'clipboard', it's just a temporary place to hold something so you can 'paste' it somewhere else.)
7.Go back and open the browser session with your 'reply' that you opened in step 1 and 2. (You minimized it in step 2.)
8.At the top of the reply window find the 'Insert image' button and click it. (It is the yellow square with the little picture of a mountain in it.)
9.When you click it, it says 'Please enter the URL of your image:' Right click where it says 'HTTP://' and click 'paste'. This pastes what is in your computers 'clipboard' into that space. Then click 'OK'.

If you want to make sure it put the image in your reply, click 'preview post' at the bottom of the reply window.

It sounds like a lot of stuff to remember, but the basic idea is easy, you are copying an image location in one website into a post on a different website.

Hope this helps.

Bernie

[Tom D.]

come on man thats just a little starting line pic!!! You had to ride in it to get the full effect!!!

"There's nothing else like it!"

[baja200merk]

how quick could it be with the prop outta the water for a second at the start :confused:

VB- take good pics keep us posted!

[Riverman]

I was going to build a bench style front seat to make the hull stronger and be able to sit in the center,if riding by myself for better balance. Good idea or not?I don't see a need for it, here's why.

The bottom of the hull where the riding occurs is a V-shape and the floor is flat. These two shapes together make up a triangle which is inherently very stiff. If you shape your new stringers to contact the bottom of the floor, and you bond the top of the stringers to the bottom of the floor it will be much stiffer again, without adding weight. The area outboard of the floor-hull joint is a strong cored panel and is sufficiently stiff so no further stiffeneing is needed, especially since that running surface is out of the water most of the time.

Remember, the lighter the boat is the faster and more fun it will be. :cheers:

[David]

I used to like the front bench in my Voo Doo. I could sit in the center for solo runs, and sit at the side for running solo. A bench is a poor man's version of the Allison side slide seat.

[Viper Bud]

Thanks Jeff,
OK...I see your point about strength not being a problem....But what about ballence when running one person/driver only?
Hey guys...I guess I should be reading all thr resto threads.....but I got a couple questions about the floor...
#1 ...The square hollow fiberglass stringer in the center of the boat is open at both ends...letting water run up and down the inner hull below the floor....Is that something you guys changed?
#2... I noticed that center stringer didn't go all the way to the bow either...Did you guys leve it that way?
#3...The front "raised" floor area....made out of a sheet of fiberglass....I cut mine out to get the balsa core removed....Did you guys put it back in the same or run the plywood all the way to the bow? It would seem to be better for the floor to one level and might be a little easier to mount / use the hot foot pedel.
#4...did most of you guys re-install Balsa or use modern pin core foam & glass?

Man O Man...it's pretty tight up in the bow to work.....I left the shop vac running to suck some of the glass dust as I cut.

It always seems like everything I buy needs to be fix in some way far more than first thought...So gut feelings that I'm getting a good solid boat fades as I take things apart more and more.
I can only hope that the pay off is in the fun of owning it for a while.
Bud

[Capt.Insane-o]

Don't get too down. There is probably only a handfull of these left that have original solid core.

1. Check to see if the pad is cored, one 83 or 84 I did had the fiberglass stringer, but no core in the pad except for the very back. If the pad is cored it'll have to be cut out. Measure the height first and note it for reconstuction.

2. The Viper is a very strong boat due to its shape so it's not neccessary to run the stringer all the way up.

3. Everything I have done gets set up center steer unless the owner or buyer wishes otherwise. The seating position is nice and low behind the windsheild and there is'nt the wind blast to deal with. Usually after they drive or sit in one set up center steer they go that way. The floor can be extended up for the foot throttle and then a bulkhead in front of that. Then use one of those stretch cargo nets to put jackets or what ever in. A bench or tandem bucket still can go behind the driver for ride alongs.

4. Balsa is cheapest and easiest to work with. I've used foam and composite board after learning the vacuum bagging process. Either way seal your work up well with a good gel coat inside making sure no pin holes are left.

Don't get discouraged. You found one of the coolest set ups there is and should be good for 75-80 depending on final weight and set up. If you have'nt taken the motor off yet do that so the bottom does'nt distort.

[oldskier]

Thanks Jeff,
OK...I see your point about strength not being a problem....But what about ballence when running one person/driver only?
Hey guys...I guess I should be reading all thr resto threads.....but I got a couple questions about the floor...
#1 ...The square hollow fiberglass stringer in the center of the boat is open at both ends...letting water run up and down the inner hull below the floor....Is that something you guys changed?
#2... I noticed that center stringer didn't go all the way to the bow either...Did you guys leve it that way?
#3...The front "raised" floor area....made out of a sheet of fiberglass....I cut mine out to get the balsa core removed....Did you guys put it back in the same or run the plywood all the way to the bow? It would seem to be better for the floor to one level and might be a little easier to mount / use the hot foot pedel.
#4...did most of you guys re-install Balsa or use modern pin core foam & glass?

Man O Man...it's pretty tight up in the bow to work.....I left the shop vac running to suck some of the glass dust as I cut.

It always seems like everything I buy needs to be fix in some way far more than first thought...So gut feelings that I'm getting a good solid boat fades as I take things apart more and more.
I can only hope that the pay off is in the fun of owning it for a while.
Bud


Bud, From what Ronnie posted the square hollow stringer you mention is a later design. It is actually two stringers with a boxed in top. The earlier boats like mine had no top on the stringers but the factory attempted to bond the top of the stringers with the bottom of the floor...with limited success. I made sure my floor was bonded to the top of my stringers when I rebuilt it.

I made my stringers long enough to tie in to the front bulkhead.

The raised floor area in the bow is an air tank for flotation as well as a structural stiffener for the bow. I put mine back in, Jeff (Riverman) took his out. Some guys put their hotfoot on top of it.

Balsa is hard to beat. With the grain standing on end, it beats all foam material in compression strength. Some will tell you that closed cell foam will not absorb water, others say it will. I used balsa because of the compression strength and low cost, as well as because thats what the designer used and so do most high performance boat companies even today. Some who have seen closed cell foam after years of use/abuse in the water claim the closed cell foam is beaten to dust. Some also claim it WILL waterlog. We already know that the balsa will rot to mud or dust.

Tight in the bow, yep, thats one reason I took my deck off. You have a re-usable original rubrail that would have to be destroyed to take the deck off. Keep working under there and come out for air once in a while. It's WORTH it. The rubrail is irreplaceable.

"I can only hope that the pay off is in the fun of owning it for a while."

I will bet you that the 1st time you run your boat on the lake that you will feel like I did, that ONE RIDE made every bit of work worth it. Ask ANYBODY who has completed their rebuild. I spent nearly a year on mine and was getting very frustrated near the end during the repaint and rerig stages. Not to mention you will have saved a classic legendary speedboat from the landfill. You can't go to a dealer and buy one anymore. I also bet that during the first time out somebody will comment on it. Maybe before you get it in the water.

[Riverman]

:iagree: To what Bernie and the Capt. said above. Centre steer is the hot setup alright, but if you want a bench to take friends out or to snuggle with the lady that's cool too. Just consider weight with whatever you do, and to repeat the wise words already said, there is nothing wrong with using traditional materials. They are cheap, readily available, easy to work with and will last forever if they are encapsulated properly.
I will bet you that the 1st time you run your boat on the lake that you will feel like I did, that ONE RIDE made every bit of work worth it. Ask ANYBODY who has completed their rebuild. I spent nearly a year on mine and was getting very frustrated near the end during the repaint and rerig stages. Not to mention you will have saved a classic legendary speedboat from the landfill. You can't go to a dealer and buy one anymore. I also bet that during the first time out somebody will comment on it. Maybe before you get it in the water.YES! Like Bernie said, there is nothing like owning such a beautiful, classic piece of plastic. They sure are a head turner alright. Once you are done you start with the next task - the setup. It also can be difficult and frustrating, but you get to drive the boat while doing it! :cool: :cheers:

[Hydrophobic guy]

but if you want a bench to snuggle with the lady that's cool too.

My GF was terrified of my Viper but, I'm sure it had nothing to do with the driver....:leaving:

[Capt.Insane-o]

Motovation :)

[rjdubiel]

keep at it, you will be happy. i am still working on mine from august of 2007!!! but i have been on it and then off for months. just keep at it, jeff always had a saying in his resto, if you get frustrated get a beer, sit and relax. then get back to it. i am still trying to get mine back up to the cities without getting snow/salt/road crap all over it and the trailer from lacrosse, wi. now 10" + of snow falling in lacrosse!!! i hate snow this early.

RJ

[oldskier]

keep at it, you will be happy. i am still working on mine from august of 2007!!! but i have been on it and then off for months. just keep at it, jeff always had a saying in his resto, if you get frustrated get a beer, sit and relax. then get back to it. i am still trying to get mine back up to the cities without getting snow/salt/road crap all over it and the trailer from lacrosse, wi. now 10" + of snow falling in lacrosse!!! i hate snow this early.

RJ


RJ, you're just trying to beat the record for the longest 'Stream rebuild in history....Riverman only took 3 years!:reddevil:

[Riverman]

I'm damned slow at everything. But I find doing something slowly is easier than doing it over. :D

[oldskier]

I'm damned slow at everything. But I find doing something slowly is easier than doing it over. :D


78 mph gps...slow to Ronnie maybe, sounds fast to me right now Jeff....

[Riverman]

78 mph gps...slow to Ronnie maybe, sounds fast to me right now Jeff....I'm taking about doing not driving. I've been staring at my powerhead on the bench for a week now. I seem to go through a lot of beer. :confused:

[oldskier]

I'm taking about doing not driving. I've been staring at my powerhead on the bench for a week now. I seem to go through a lot of beer. :confused:

Thats alright for this time of year up there, you gotta wait for the ice to go away next spring. I'll prolly STILL be behind you with the V6 next year!

What'choo doin' now? more TOP SECRET mods?

[Viper Bud]

Hey guys,
I posted my fist project on craigs list http://atlanta.craigslist.org/boa/949455657.html
I didn't like the way it handled and never took it out because of it.... If anyone know of anyone in need of a good project let lem know.

I had a call on this boat and I told the guy I bought a Viper....He said make sure I fill in the V in the PAD on the bottom of the boat...
I haven't herd you guys say anything about that so far..so I thought I would ask?

I got the engine pulled of today...I gotta find a re-build kit for one side of the tilt/trim cylinder system.
Transom still sounds hard as a rock..so I hope it's still good.
Am I going to have to pull the square center support out of the floor area? Is the balsa core under it too?
Bud

[Capt.Insane-o]

Don't touch the bottom.

Your'll have to do a little exploratory surgery on the pad. Most likely it's cored as well. The Viper will smoke your old boat there. :)

[Sonik]

I had a call on this boat and I told the guy I bought a Viper....He said make sure I fill in the V in the PAD on the bottom of the boat...
I haven't herd you guys say anything about that so far..so I thought I would ask?

I got the engine pulled of today...I gotta find a re-build kit for one side of the tilt/trim cylinder system.
Transom still sounds hard as a rock..so I hope it's still good.
Am I going to have to pull the square center support out of the floor area? Is the balsa core under it too?
Bud


Bud,

You'll hear 50 different answers from 50 different people about the pad. Fact of the matter is, the newer hulls, I believe 74-75ish and later, have a hook longitudinally and also have a concave area along the center of the pad. The arguments have been long and angry about whether to fill and straighten or leave it be. I do know this, Ronnie had a box stock pad on his brown viper, and you saw the results of that. I'm leaving mine as is and I have no doubt it'll do what I want it to.

As far as the transom, run a pick or scribe into the bolt holes, and if you can sink it in, you've got water/rot. Check the lower ones more closely obviously as those are the ones below the waterline.

The 'square' you speak of is actually 2 1/2" ply stringers with the tops tied together, and if you're going to all this trouble, I'd find a way to get into the core in the rear pad area because I'm almost sure its saturated.

You have officially eclipsed my progress in all of 3 days...congrats!! :thumbsup:


Jeff

[oldskier]

:iagree:Listen to the Cap'n, don't mess with the bottom unless you are SURE you know better than Howard Pipkorn. (You don't...not many in the world know as much)

If your old boat scared you.... put on your iron undies! V-Pad boats require seat time to learn to fly 'em. (Did you drive your first car wide open the first time out?) I don't have enough yet by a long shot.

I'm at 68 mph gps. Want to see 75 next season. Gonna require some time and ga$$$oline. Hope the price stays down till spring.

The stringer assembly is wood and it's in the bottom of the boat. It needs to be checked and since you're in there, you might as well do it all.

Seems to just get worse as you go don't it? Don't worry. I swear, cleaning the corebond out is the worst of it. If you are the least bit handy with carpentry tools, the rebuild part is the fun part.

OK, Here's the worst news. I thought I would finish mine in 3 months....I took a year. Could have done it in 6-7 months if I had a shop but I had to work outside and my work time was limited by winter. (I'm an old Florida boy and I'm allergic to cold...)

I had to paint though, you should be able to save the gel on yours. If the gel looks good when you spray water on it, it'll look the same when you re-clear it.

Bernie

[Capt.Insane-o]

Newer hulls had a boxed fiberglass stringer.

Bernie.. 68? tsk tsk ;)

[Viper Bud]

Thanks for the great advice guys...It's so cool to get feedback from people who know what their talking about. I enjoy learning about my new hobby from you all.
The Old Red Boat wasn't that fast ...maybe 50+ but the scary part was chine walk that I could not drive past... The pad on that boat was only about 3" wide...It was pretty hard to get the boat to ballance on it with my weight so far forward and off center. Of course I didn't know enough about hulls shapes, proper trim, props, engine height, Etc. I also didn't give the boat much test time... I'm VERY happy restoring the Viper and think it will be a better handling boat....and a little cooler looking too. I don't mind the work it will take as long as I have pros like you guys to help me a little along the way...as you have kindly done so far.
I'm gona get to the bottom of things in the pad tomorrow and look for any more rotton core material. I will do the ice pic test through the engine bolt holes in the transom tomorrow. I have my fingers crossed.... It would be pretty tough to replace a transom without taking the top half of the boat off.
Oh...by the way...the rub rail is in prefect condition with no dock rash or dents...so that's another reason I hope the hull can stay together.
I plan to post a few more photos of the boats progress tomorrow if it's ok with you guys.
Thanks for the kind support!
Bud

[oldskier]

Bud, Check out Johns solution to transom replacement without removing the deck. I'd never have believed it if he didn't post pics....where there's a will, there's a way....
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</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <!-- / user info --> <!-- message, attachments, sig --> <!-- message --> Rick,
No doubt. It works well. The penetrating epoxy fix goes into the wood wherever water would, only with a vengence, and then sets up the epoxy, effectively petrifying it.

I'm a durned purist. I has a pocket of rot so bad that it came out like loose wet cardboard. I decided to gut it out and put in new wood.

Kinda went wild with the chain saw last night.

John
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</fieldset>
<!-- / attachments --> <!-- sig --> __________________
To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

[oldskier]

Newer hulls had a boxed fiberglass stringer.

Bernie.. 68? tsk tsk ;)


Sorry Cap...all that setup advise has me going nutzzzzzz.......I'll do better next year.:leaving:

[samari]

You can also cut out the splash well, but you would have to blend in the gel coat. Looks good so far. I think I have read every post I could find on recoring vipers rivermans and oldskiers twice it is so nice to see what has been done. Also read the atc core bond manual as well it's well worth it.

[Fasttoys]

Sorry Cap...all that setup advise has me going nutzzzzzz.......I'll do better next year.:leaving:

Bernie,
Look back at my response on learning to drive and balance that thing. That was written by a person who had started with the driving experience level and knowledge of set up that you have. With all the help form this site I can now help you get there from the standpoint of a relative newbie. In a nutshell 1) get jack plate, low water pickup, water pressure gage, trim on the wheel, and foot throttle. 2) Put all the weight in the left rear (gas tank, battery, etc.) and add an extra 75 lbs. in same location 3) Set prop shaft at 1 1/2" below the pad and raise motor 1/2 inch at a time until it will not fly the hull with any amount of trim.(or you start to lose water pressure) 4) Go back to your last setting and drive at 65 -70 and practice SLOWING DOWN as well as the chine walking thing. 5) Increase speed slowly as you get the hang of it all. 6) Remove the extra weight and go for it once you think your ready.

Oh....and always wear safety equipment and be sure someone else is out there on the water in case something bad happens. Enjoy :thumbsup:

[oldskier]

Bernie,
Look back at my response on learning to drive and balance that thing. That was written by a person who had started with the driving experience level and knowledge of set up that you have. With all the help form this site I can now help you get there from the standpoint of a relative newbie. In a nutshell 1) get jack plate, low water pickup, water pressure gage, trim on the wheel, and foot throttle. 2) Put all the weight in the left rear (gas tank, battery, etc.) and add an extra 75 lbs. in same location 3) Set prop shaft at 1 1/2" below the pad and raise motor 1/2 inch at a time until it will not fly the hull with any amount of trim.(or you start to lose water pressure) 4) Go back to your last setting and drive at 65 -70 and practice SLOWING DOWN as well as the chine walking thing. 5) Increase speed slowly as you get the hang of it all. 6) Remove the extra weight and go for it once you think your ready.

Oh....and always wear safety equipment and be sure someone else is out there on the water in case something bad happens. Enjoy :thumbsup:


Fasttoys, Thanks again! The Jack plate, trim on wheel, nosecone/lwp pressure gauge, torque tab, foot throttle are all there. Moving the weight is gonna require some glass work because I put it back together the way it was originally set up without knowing the problems it would cause. (Trim pump on the right, battery in the middle). I am planning to move them when the weather gets better, should just take a Saturday. I will do the engine height thing when I can get some more water time.


Thanks, Bernie

[Viper Bud]

Hey Guys ,
While we are on the subject....I found a some replacement trim cylinders for my old style side mount system for my 1500XS.....But... I do have a CMC aftermarket trim /tilt system...It will set the motor back a little farther....which system would you guys use? Fix the old or try the sftermarket system? Does anyone know where to get replacement parts/re-build kits for the old 4 hose style Merc systems? The old used stuff I found will cost over $200 for pump & 2 pistons.
Bud

[Capt.Insane-o]

Bud I have a lot of that stuff around, the hoses can be made anywhere that hydraulic hoses are made. The cylinders are'nt hard to rebuild with a little patience and the spanner nut tool. I think the kits were about 20 bucks a side the last time I did a pair. I'd use the factory trim and tilt system, it's bullet proof when fixed correctly. Those CMC plates leave a bit to be desired. CMC and Bobs make an affordable set back plate. Vipers need a little set back with a inline especially if you are going to carry a person with you.

[Hydrophobic guy]

Fasttoys, Thanks again! The Jack plate, trim on wheel, nosecone/lwp pressure gauge, torque tab, foot throttle are all there. Moving the weight is gonna require some glass work because I put it back together the way it was originally set up without knowing the problems it would cause. (Trim pump on the right, battery in the middle). I am planning to move them when the weather gets better, should just take a Saturday. I will do the engine height thing when I can get some more water time.


Thanks, Bernie


Not to be a hijacker but,

Bernie you ever get that motor runnin right? :confused:

BTW I never did all that weight stuff.
Mine was set up with battery on the left, fuel centered and did 90 with a 2.4 200 running a 28 big ear. :thumbsup:

[oldskier]

HG, Yeah, had a bad coil. Made a WORLD of difference! Just amazed me that I couldn't tell it was running on 5....had been ever since I owned it.

2 strokes are a different animal.

Sorry Bud, back to your rebuild....

[oldskier]

Hey Guys ,
While we are on the subject....I found a some replacement trim cylinders for my old style side mount system for my 1500XS.....But... I do have a CMC aftermarket trim /tilt system...It will set the motor back a little farther....which system would you guys use? Fix the old or try the sftermarket system? Does anyone know where to get replacement parts/re-build kits for the old 4 hose style Merc systems? The old used stuff I found will cost over $200 for pump & 2 pistons.
Bud


Don't know about the aftermarket kit, but if it includes a jack plate you might want to use it. Vipers have enough bow lift without a lot of setback, but if it is around 4 inches it wouldn't cause too much trouble from what I've read. I'm a firm believer in NOT spending more money!:D

[Wizard]

Set up is critically important but once you really learn to drive it you won't have to worry so much about adding weight to balance the boat. Sure it helps but who wants to drive around with 75lbs of lead shot in your boat?

Seat time is key. Drive it, Drive it, DRIVE IT! :cheers: Once you become experienced in a pad V hull you can jump into any boat and drive it with just a short time getting the feel for it.

Then when you drive a tunnel hull you fall asleep at the wheel! lol

[Capt.Insane-o]

Set up is critically important but once you really learn to drive it you won't have to worry so much about adding weight to balance the boat. Sure it helps but who wants to drive around with 75lbs of lead shot in your boat?

Seat time is key. Drive it, Drive it, DRIVE IT! :cheers: Once you become experienced in a pad V hull you can jump into any boat and drive it with just a short time getting the feel for it.

Then when you drive a tunnel hull you fall asleep at the wheel! lol

Exactly, the biggest mistake on a viper with a v-6 is with the motor too low, they wobble, weave, walk all over the place. 1/2 inch under or even with the pad is the place to be. It's not a boat to expect to just hang on to the wheel in.

[Viper Bud]

Well.... Will anyone tell me if this link works to go to the Photo Site... http://tinypic.com/3ia0l214

http://s4.tinypic.com/28moew2_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=DI0Gs6N9WGYrdyoRUks3nw%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2hzh9fr_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=DI0Gs6N9WGbbDvlCyHuYzQ%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/mjnts9_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=DI0Gs6N9WGYyJCNMFTcpaQ%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/2n6yp2x_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=DI0Gs6N9WGb1jfbKw9WNxA%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/mutv6v_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=DI0Gs6N9WGZybxRdgadmUg%3D%3D)http://s4.tinypic.com/14448c2_th.jpg (http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=DI0Gs6N9WGY9jnsD%2FZfu3w%3D%3D)

The taking apart is the easy part.....I was lucky because all the core was rotton brown paste that the sawzall cut right through. I was able to cut the outer edges of the core area and peel the cored glass panel open.
I also tried stripping the enamel clear coat off and buffed on the old gel coat... I think that this is gona take a while...
Just thought I would give a photo up-date.... I'm sure it's going to take me most the winter to put the boat back together.
Thanks for letting me have this thread aout my Viper and for all your help & advice.
Bud

[oldskier]

Bud, the links work and the pics are showing up in the post as well. You've been busy! Better get the motor off with the core out, don't want to stress the hull....

[Maple Leaf]

Are you going to cut the foam out too? I know the foam in my Vandal was complete soaked! Im sure yours will be the same. As oldskier said, You should take the motor off and de rigg everything. Less stress and much easier to work on!:)

[Riverman]

Bud, you will have to cut that centre bit out too. You can just run a skillsaw along each edge.
Mine didn't have those foam boxes thank goodness.

[Viper Bud]

Yes Guys....I took the engine off....(post #67).....Ok Jeff...let me get this straight ....I need to remover the center thin fiberglass box stringer....because the pad is under it and will be cored and likely rotton too...Right?
Question>> how much more core is there in the boat besides what I have already taken out? Got a link to any photos of a completely de-cored boat so I can see? I poked a knife blade in a hollow area just above the floor line and it seemed empty of core material...just hollow area. I will test the flotation boxes for water soaked foam...but my gut feeling is that water never got high enough to soak in to it.
Question> I can only get 1/2" & 3/4" marine plywood ...seems like a lot of boats used 5/8"....What did you guys put back in?
Question> Did anyone epoxy the underside of the floor,before installing it in the boat to help prevent future rot?
Question> I have read a couple of posts that talk about "hook" I guess it was put in at the factory to make the boats plane off faster....Right? I was told that at least the last 4ft of any "FAST" boat needed to be perfectly straight. I was told the hook causes the water passing under the boat to get lifted then pushed down again which causes drag. Now...if the boat rides far enough back at higher speeds to where the hook has no effect..then that would be something interesting to know. I have not put a straight edge on the hull..so I don't really know what's up. I going to get the trailer set up next ....to hold the boat properly...I don't want the hull to change because the bunks are pushing up against it ....now that there is less structure inside to hold the weight.
Question> Any tips on trailer improvements..bunk size, keel roller pressure or not, bow stops, tongue weight?
I will also need to turn the boat over and take care of the bottom gel-coat at some point. Not really looking forward to that task.
Question> Is there any special wax or coating I should use on the hull?
OK..enough questions...back to work.

Why is it that when we are younger we likely thought there was always plenty of spare "TIME" and now that we are older there is never enough spare "TIME". I won't get into why a woman's favorite spare time is used sleeping late..which seem to me to be wasting "TIME".

Time to say good buy Bud....

[oldskier]

Here's a pic of mine completely de-cored with new transom wood and stringers.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x10/bernieallan/MLNA0032.jpg

I laminated 1/2 inch ply for the transom, 3 layers. The stringers are one layer. I used 1 layer of fiberglass mat on the bottom of my floor to seal it and to give the floor something to bond to the top of the stringers. I didn't on another boat I had and the floor warped.

The 'hook' ( the factory called it a 'wedge') is in the pad to keep the bow lower at high speeds. The boats were being overpowered :D by owners and Howard Pipkorn wanted to keep the chance of 'blow over' down. The early ones didn't have it (Rivermans boat) the later ones did. Ronnies boat went 108 with one, so don't plan to change the design. It works.

"I was told that at least the last 4ft of any "FAST" boat needed to be perfectly straight. I was told the hook causes the water passing under the boat to get lifted then pushed down again which causes drag."

True, but not 4 feet. The wedge is about 2 feet long and only about 1 1/2 feet of it are in the water at speed. If you want to be sure it works, make that 2 foot section FLAT (no curve). It should not be a 'hook' (curve) it should be a wedge (flat section).

(I hate it when guys call it a 'hook'....)

Bernie

[Capt.Insane-o]

Looks like you've got about 80% of the core out already. The pad is most likely cored and besides the remaining along the outside edges of the stringers that's it.

Trailer wise, no rollers. two to four bunks is all you need.

On the bottom leave the wedge be and just sharpen the strakes and edges when the time comes. The bottom is easier to work on after the core and stringers have all been replaced due to the fact it is in it's final shape and solid. So if you need to do a bunch of filling or sanding it's not going to change shape. 3/4 ply will work fine for the stringers.

http://boatbuildercentral.com/index.php

Some more high tech stuff here
http://dragonplate.com/

Core bedding
http://www.diabgroup.com/americas/u_products/u_prods_5.html

Static Cores
http://www.diabgroup.com/americas/u_products/renicell.html

Balsa Core
http://www.diabgroup.com/americas/u_products/u_prods_4.html

Divinicell Core
http://www.diabgroup.com/americas/u_products/u_prods_2.html

Composite Panels (floor)
http://www.ccvbc.com/composite_panels.html

[Riverman]

Here is a pic of mine with all core and corebond removed and the secondary bond layer applied. I used an etching resin called Dow Derakane 8084 to obtain a good secondary bond. This resin is corrosive and etches the substrate as it is made to bond to concrete and steel.

I was in denial about the pad core, I didn't believe there was any in there. Someone convinced me (might have been Alan Power) to drill a test hole to see - I did and water came out!

Download and read the ATC Corebond Manual (http://www.atc-fp.com/manuals.html) - great information about recoring!

[Ronny Jetmore]

when the change was made n the pad in about 1975, it was a wedge, but as time progressed, the wedge turned into a hook. take a look at a viper out of a 1976 mold compared to a viper out of a 1986 mold. you will see the hook quite clearly in the 1986. my 1982 and 1984 viper both had hooks. per ron baker and pipkorn, i filled them in and i gained several mph, seriously. the boat handled better, too. it could finally get loose. a hook slams the boat to the water.

[Viper Bud]

To all of you,
You all have been very helpfull and I can't thank you enough! Thanks for all the links and feedback....It would be great to meet some of you in person this summer after my boat is done...if possible...
Bernie...I might be able to hook up with you here in Ga. or in TN. since you seem to be the closest to N. GA..
If you guys have any group outings or meets and any of you like to travel....The lakes around me are very nice...This is the TVA lake Bernie talked about...I held Fly-Ins (Sky-Ski/Air-Chair Hydrofoiling) at this place for three years... http://www.theridgesresort.com/Privacy/privacy-policy.asp and everyone really liked it. Most lakes around N. Ga. range from 6000 acres to 90,000 (Clark Hill). and have VERY CLEAN water for swimming/water sports.

I have a lot of work to do and plan on getting to it ASAP.
Oh...If any of you find or know what part numbers the rebuild kit is for my old style Merc 1500XS trim and tilt system is ...please let me know.... I missed out on the used parts I found on eBAy so it looks like I will need to rebuild what I have.

I will post some more photos after I get some real work done this time.

You all have given me real INCENTIVE! I can see you all have earned your rides through hard "ICHY" work. I very much respect what you all have done with your boats. I hope I can live up to the same level of PROFESSIONALISM in building/restoring my Viper...or close enough anyway.

One last request....Any Video links to you guys running your boats? That's seems to be my best incentive....

Thanks again to all of you who took the time to post Help & Advice. I can tell this is truly a great group of experts & friends.
Bud

[oldskier]

Bud, Hydrostreams provide their own incentive, but I gotta agree, without SnF mine would have been hard to accomplish.

Hope we can get together this spring.

As far as the parts are concerned, I think you should post in the buy and sell forum. I think you'll be surprised, the parts I've bought here have been very reasonable.

This thread has turned in to a recore thread, maybe if you get bored you should start a recore thread in Fiberglass Discussions, or maybe a moderator could move this one there?

Remember, we want to see as much as we can, post pics liberally!

Bernie

[Riverman]

This was last summer just after the new motor went on - it is 15 mph better than this now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuZ3ms1jLuA

[Fasttoys]

Search "rondak Romp 2008" on youtube and you'll see some decent vids. Helmut's STV, Frank Mole's Vegas, Pete's Ventura, Brad's Talon, etc. My only vid on there is the 18 second long one where I got it a little too flighty and had to lift out of the gas.:eek: I hate that! It was a little rough out there for me to fly it that high without getting squirly. :thumbsup:

[oldskier]

This was last summer just after the new motor went on - it is 15 mph better than this now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HuZ3ms1jLuA


Best part of that vid is the SOUND after you let off and yer foot is bouncing on the pedal as the boat comes off the pad, or maybe a little showboating or just playing, whatever, it just sounds WICKED!

Just wathced again and maybe it's just the echos off the bridge pilings, but it's COOL!

[Maple Leaf]

This one?? :D

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[Riverman]

Just wathced again and maybe it's just the echos off the bridge pilings, but it's COOL!My boy filmed it for me, he said the lady fishing was starting to get upset. :eek:

[oldskier]

Heres an oldie, with a motor like yours...this guy ain't skeered to hang 'em high! I think this demonstrates the need for the wedge in the pad....


<object width="425" height="344">


<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/e3_fWI-fbnQ&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></object>

[RONNIE]

sorry can't load vids heres an old pic of mine

[Viper Bud]

Thanks guys!
Amazing performance by these 15ft Viper boats! Another cool videos is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRSjRmBqwEE I just can't get over how these boats just hang in the air and fly...or SCREAM & FLY. Does the green Viper & owner in the video above belong to this group too?

Yes Bernie...I'm beginning to learn why/how the "wedge" helps control the boat at high speeds. Thanks for your imput.

Bud

[Maple Leaf]

ttt? Hows it going so far? and Yes the guy with the green Viper is on the boards here.

[baja200merk]

Heres an oldie, with a motor like yours...this guy ain't skeered to hang 'em high! I think this demonstrates the need for the wedge in the pad....


hahaha i like how the guy gets on it around 5min mark makes a pass hangin it out there and it blows out at speed :nonod: then he turns right around to pick his buddy up after he watched him:eek::leaving:

ronnie what video do u want posted?

Kid

[Viper Bud]

Hi Brandon,
Thanks for asking... I've got the boat in my shop...motor off...off the trailer....proped hull up in 3 points on foam blocks and it's waiting for me to finish removing the remainder of inner floor & coring....I restore/work on boats for a living...Antique wooden, Fiberglassics, and family boats...So....I'm pretty busy...It's just a two man shop..both of us are in our 50s with about 30 years each in different areas of boat knowledge. I've been in the same location for the last 19 years and our good longstanding reputation has kept us very busy with many different restorations, machanical repair, Canvas & Upholstery. Spring will be here very soon and we have much to do. I hope to get back to work on the Viper very soon. I have taken a little time off (1 week) for the holidays I have done much research about recoring the hull and using pour in foam to help firm things up. I'm still looking for trim & tilt repair kits..with no luck so far.
Glad to here the Green Yamaha Viper guy visits here....His video running with the River Rocket is very inspiring to me... That boat looks so good aired out like he showed it.
I plan to show new progress on my Viper as soon as I get back busy on it again.
Hope you all had a Merry 25th and Happy New Year to all...
Bud

[Capt.Insane-o]

No pour in foam plz. The shape of the viper itself leads it to being a very strong boat. After a properly bedded and sealed recore all they need is to be kept dry. I wish I had a video of the removal of 700+ pounds of completely saturated foam from my HST. What a disaster.

[Riverman]

:iagree:

Pour in foam is BAD. It absorbs water like a sponge and does not seem to release it. Just seal 'er up and keep 'er dry.

[Fasttoys]

This one? :D
Yep....that's the one. I was doing about 80 into a slight wind and got a little trim happy.:eek: I got a little spooked and lifted too quickly. I should have just lifted a little and tapped the trim down a notch or too and put it back to the floor! I'll try that next time I'm on video. :cheers:




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQw05ey2cAw&feature=related

[Viper Bud]

OK Guys...
Recore only? The boat had square cut apx. 2"X6"X 48+" foam blocks "layed' in the hull on each side of the center floor support..they were water soaked through a weighed plenty. I thought if I poured in 4pound foam "Very carefully" and a little at a time....it would help support the hull against the new 3/4" marine plywood flooring and keep hull flexing to a minimum.
If recore only.....How did you guys keep any of the water from getting in the void under the floor area? Change the factory set up that lets bilge water travel in the center floor support tube?....Guess I'm trying to re-invent the wheel then....If recore only works well with no foam at all...then I guess maybe that's the way to do it.

P.S. By the way...I just wanted you guys to know that this is MY OWN PERSONEL VIPER for myself and not a customer's repair. It's my FIRST "true" go fast boat I have ever owned with real performance potential. I really want to thank you guys for the support. I am NOT a "know it all expert" ...I learn something new every day....and enjoy what I do.....learing the best way to do it is the real challenge sometimes. It's nice to be able to ask for help & advice from guys who have "been there & done that".
Bud

[samari]

Under the floor there should be a way for water to flow as well as air so it can come out after use. The way mine was done at the factory the drain holes were about 1" off the floor and small. This would collect water and "stuff" in the holes holding water in there. When I put the stringer braces back in there will be larger holes on the bottom to help.

As far as the foam a lot of guys keep the foam under the bow and remove the rest. The stuff under the bow can't get wet so it's fine any other place and it will absorb water.

I personally think 3/4 plywwod is overkill and that 1/2 is more than enough some have used 3/8 but is up to you.

Good luck.

[Riverman]

How did you guys keep any of the water from getting in the void under the floor area? I did mine without the air tank in front and use a big old inner tube for flotation. And, I didn't rebuild the "bilge box" that IMO traps water ahead of the transom. This makes the underfloor area very open to the air which allows it to dry quickly after all the water is out.

As far as stiffness goes, 1/2" ply for the floor is tons. To make it super stiff without adding weight just make your stringers high enough to be just short of the bottom of the floor when covered in glass. Then when the floor is installed lay a couple of layers of CSM on top of the stringers and you end up with a giant double I-beam!

On the subject of using heavier materials, don't forget that adding weight is defeating the purpose of the intended use of the boat. If you do a good job with the rebuild using the same materials the factory did it will be plenty strong. :smiletest:

[oldskier]

Bud, I think you will be surprised at how hard a properly bonded balsa hull becomes! Think of it as a 3/4" solid sheet of fiberglass, VERY rigid. The floor section between the stringers is only about 7 inches and the section from stringer to floor channel in the hull bottom around 10 inches. If it's 3/8" or 1/2" ply, 'glassed on both sides, it doesn't require any additional support. Make sure the stringers are tall enough to bond to the bottom of the floor and you will have a REAL strong hull.
Make sure your drain back holes are sufficient, I used 2 one inch holes from between the stringers in to the well and 2 in the side of each stringer to the well. Make sure you get the inside of the holes coated in resin.
I have a little bilge pump in the well and unless people get in the boat wet, I never see any water come out when I turn the pump on.

[Viper Bud]

Thanks Guys,
All sounds like very good advice....I agree! I suggested 3/4" marine plywood only because we keep it in stock and our supplier only carries 1/2" and 3/4" in stock. I think I may have some 5/8" (Viper size) imported Okoume plywood in stock I can use. Weight wood be an issue and it all adds up..Thanks for reminding me.
Photos to follow.
Bud

[Sonik]

What's the latest? Any progress ?


Jeff

[Viper Bud]

Hey Jeff,
I did find a complete hydrolic tilt & trim replacement system for the 1150XS on eBay for a couple hundred bucks...most people wanted around $400.
The boat is still drying out and waiting for the grinder. That is the part I have been putting off I guess.
We just finished up on a (one owner) restoration of a Master Craft Stars & Stripes at a cost of twice the current market value....it pays the bills.
We have a 59 Chris Craft to refinish & upholster.
A Surpra ski boat that just got a new floor & stringers (Split the hull). A Grady White that just got a new transom....and many other antique & classic restorations to finish before up before spring. I only get the weekends and early mornings (sometimes) to do anything for myself. Now that I got the trim parts I needed, I want/need to get busy on the Hydrostream Viper again. I have been stripping the enamel clear off the gel coat as it sits in the shop. I have to strip out the bad wiring & controls and see if I can free up the old black Teleflex steerng system some. I will be swapping trailers with the Red Allison boat I showed you guys. The trailer under the Viper got jack knifed and bent the tounge a bunch.
I'm glad you asked about the progress Jeff...It reminds me that it's OK to reward myself with my projects too. You remember the story about the shoe maker's kids go barefoot.....
I am VERY GREATFULL to be busy and have a job....My customers come first and we are only a two man shop.Somehow I will find time time for the Viper restoration too.
It's nice to know someone is paying attention.... thanks Jeff
Bud

[Sonik]

I'm always lurking around my subscribed threads :thumbsup: Keep pluggin' away at it man!!! :D

[Maple Leaf]

Hows the project going so far?

[Viper Bud]

Hi Guys,
We are still finishing up on all our customer winter boat restorations...We are only a couple of 50+ old farts. Not too fast, But we're good at what we do. I think we set a record on inboard ski boats this winter.....floors,carpet,wetsand & buff or paint,all new upholstery, covers etc. I'm NOT complaining....and not getting rich...but bills are getting paid.

My Viper project is still sitting on 3 foam blocks waiting for my free time....I have collected all my parts needed ...just need to get caught up enough to justify work on my own stuff.

I still need to finish up my 59 El Camino driveline swap too. My 2007 Dodge 6.7 doesn't like short trips....so I took on another streetrod project so I could have somthing else to drive.

Too much to do ...so little time to do it.

Thanks for asking Guys!
Bud

[oldskier]

Good to hear you are staying busy, got to have the $$$ to play 'boat'!

59 El Camino tow rig? AWESOME! Gotta see pics!

[Maple Leaf]

Bump :D

[110VROPLOW]

Just figured I would add pics of my '80 Viper before and after core was finished up and new floor was installed.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr254/ndahaus/Viper/SSPX0112.jpg
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr254/ndahaus/Viper/SSPX0113.jpg
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr254/ndahaus/Viper/SSPX0123.jpg
http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr254/ndahaus/Viper/DSC04849.jpg

[Viper Bud]

I can't believe it's been 4 years!
I blew the dust off the Viper and pulled it out of storage. I guess most of you guys thought I was gone and lost forever. Well I got side tracked and a slave to working on other customer boats. Then I started thinking about the Viper sitting in the storage barn.
I have the boat gutted about to where the Viper photos in the post before this one is. And wonder how mush more is required. There is rotton balsa under the side flowtation and more above the front bow shelf area. If anyone is still offering advice or links to help me in this project, I would be very greatfull. I hope to follow this project through this time till it hits the water. You all have been a great help so far. There is no subsitute for experience. I don't have any for GO FAST BOATS.
Thanks again!
Bud

[Viper Bud]

I see that I have worn out my welcome here... No interest No Replys... Tried to post in the Vipers Group...same thing...no interest no replys.
I have had a bad 4 years and could not work on my project so I tried to get pumped up again about finishing my little boat by getting a little more positive feed back & advice. I work on pontoon boats and family small I/Os on small mountain lakes...so I don't know much about 80MPH boats. There is no one around my area I can ask either I can see that this group is too busy or whatever to answer the 2 questions I asked. I thought I was being post friendly ever since I joined. Now that the door has been closed in my face...I understand that I don't fit in and will do my best to finish my boat myself without asking anymore questions from this "Friendly Group" of S&F members. Feels a bit like rejection. I do thank you all for the great help I have gotton so far and I guess I can figure everything else out for myself...like I allways do. It gets a little old working by myself on everything sometimes. At least you all had 4 years with out me bugging you. I may ask a few more questions after I have a few test runs under my belt...I guess there are Hydrostream Forums that may offer advice. I may see if I can get help there...I'm sure many of you will be member there too.
Thanks for all you have offered.. I can re-read all that..I'll be just fine. I don't want to waste anyones time.
Bud

[delawarerick]

Bud I don't think anyone forgot about you. Maybe if you start a new thread directing it towards your needs it will be noticed. The work so far looks good. Rick

[JWTjr.]

I agree (wth delawarerick), Bud. Maybe those with the answers to your questions are busy with other things (as you have admitted in your recent post that you have been, for 4 years).

I'm continually amazed with the lack of patience in today's world, everyone expects instant answers to their questions. I am guilty of it too, but sometimes you have to step back and realize that everyone is busy, just like you.

There are plenty of threads here that detail the restoration of hulls with cores, including several on Vipers in particular...you just need to search, patiently, for what you want.

Without seeing yours, because although you ask questions about how far you need to go you have not posted any photos of how far you've come to date, I would venture that you will likely have to replace all of the core and floor, and possibly the transom.

John

[Riverman]

My recore thread is pretty through, have a look.

[joelsob]

scream and fly bud we all like fast boats you have a great hull...I think what the other guy said ..start a new post and mention where you are NOW we all want you back on the lake as long as you dont outrun us too bad.

I have never rebuilt a balsa core bioat so i cant give you the best advice....and as always do the absolute best job you can evertime.


geterdone!!!! and have a

goodride

[JWTjr.]

Edit: sorry, just went through your thread from 2008. It looks like from that thread, you're 75% or better there...

[XstreamVking]

Always thought that the viper with a 1500XS was the most bang for the buck boat that was ever made...... My project sat for a few yrs un-finished. Finally took the time and finished it. Worth every minute of glass dust and fumes.... So, git to work and post some mo pictures of the progress..

[JWTjr.]

Always thought that the viper with a 1500XS was the most bang for the buck boat that was ever made...... My project sat for a few yrs un-finished. Finally took the time and finished it. Worth every minute of glass dust and fumes.... So, git to work and post some mo pictures of the progress..


You got that right...I have one and am considering removing the 1500 and replacing it with a short V6, period correct of course, but am having trouble...every time I look at it the 1500 seems to whisper "i may not be that fast but you know I'm the right engine for this boat"...

[oldskier]

Bud, did you get my reply to your 'visitor message'? Just my .02, I'd get all the flotation foam out and just recore the bottom wherever core was to begin with and leave the foam in the landfill.

BTW the inline is the coolest mota for the Viper IMHO. Go for it, the biggest boat regret I have is selling my Viper.

[Viper Bud]

Hi All,
Well...It seems I had it all wrong. You all have made very good points. I guess I let my mind wonder where it should not have been. Thanks very much for the kind replys and encouragement you have offered me. A nice happy ending to a very long thread. I will post a new thread when or if I run into trouble again. Now...BACK TO WORK on a good Viper project. I will learn how to post photos of my progress along the way from time to time. Hope to me some of you some day when the Viper is completed....maybe at an event or river run. It's about time I got out and had some fun.
Thanks to all of you so very much!
Viper Bud :)
.

[samari]

Keep at it, It took me a lot of time to finish mine and now it's done I love it. On my first trip to the lake with mine I was planing my second hydrostream build.

[Hippie459MN]

Keep at it, It took me a lot of time to finish mine and now it's done I love it. On my first trip to the lake with mine I was planing my second hydrostream build.

Im not even finished with my first hydrostream resto and I am already thinking of a second one myself. lol Even after the nightmare and mess mine was I never gave up and im sure I will have an excelent boat for many years to come and still have way less money into it then what a new boat would run me and it will be built to the way I want it. :D

Good to hear your still plugging away at it. A little bit at a time is better then nothing.

[cossie69]

Well just read this hole thread and after viper bud disapeard for 4 years came back had a little bitch then vanished? Lol does anyone know if this boat ever got finished? Did he start a knew thread? Shame really cant belive iv just sat for 45mins and read this he he he never mind

[Viper Bud]

It may sound like I'm complaining again....But I have had little time to get the boat done...I have been working on several customer's antique wooden boats...several antique cars as well as a lot of family boats. I only have one employee and we are booked solid for the whole winter long. I am very grateful for the work and it has taken 20 years to build my good "word of mouth" reputation. We get customers from many other states bringing us their projects... Customers always come first. I have about 5 personal vintage boat projects ranging from 1958 to the 80s viper as well as 5 vintage/classic cars. Weeks seem like they are only 3 days long...months seem like a couple of weeks long. I work all 7 days a week...but try to keep Sunday for me, but it doesn't happen that often.
The Viper is all ready for the balsa core and I did buy enough for the job....but I am having second thoughts on using balsa. I keep seeing soaked balsa on many of the current customer's boats I'm working on....mostly deck covers over fuel tanks in deck boats. The stuff just soaks up water like a sponge and turns to mush...just like the balsa I removed from the Viper in the first place. I guess I would be doing a better job than the fast built production boats...but wonder if it's the right way to go. Sitting on the fence is getting me anywhere. I do hope to have the boat ready by spring. I didn't put any of my boats in the water last year at all....I worked all summer long and haven't had a vacation in 7 years...that's got to change.
Sorry for taking so long to update this project and finish it in a timely manor for all to see...I almost feel guilty working on my projects when customers keep bringing me more new work and knowing many people don't even have jobs...I just end up pushing my toys off in the corner in hopes on finding free time...someday.
Just got a PSA result of 5.1 when it was 1.3 last year....maybe it's time to worry about me and my dreams before things become completely out of my control and time runs out.
Thanks for all the help & advice you guys have offered and sorry for acting up a couple of times.
Bud

[cossie69]

hey bud im glad your replied to the thread so fast, i would really love to see this viper finished im in england and will be importing a viper early next year and hope to have it ready for spring my self so im trying to get as much info as possible, i understand how busy you are and time is limited iv waited alot longer than 4 years to get my hands on a viper never mind restoring it, well i hope to see some pics up sooner rather than later and would love to see a pic of you in the boat out on the water, good luck regards tim