T-ll steering arm and swivel pin

[baldad45]

I want to change the steering arm on my T-ll ,so I can run this motor on other boats without going to cable steering.The T-ll arm is just a stub ,can this be pressed off and a reagular 1500 steering arm pressed on. Is the upper end splined likhttp://i37.tinypic.com/2637s3n.jpge the lower end ?:smiletest:

[Raceman]

I know the lower pan from a T2/T2X won't clear the arm, and I'm thinkin' the lower carb won't clear it either without the pan, but it's been a long time. I mounted a T2 powerhead on a 1500 short mid in mid 70's and had to cut the arm.

[baldad45]

It looks like it would be pretty tight . Someone on here posted that they had T-ll's with steering arms. The swivel bracket and pin on the 1250BP looks like it might be a little lower than the 1500. Also I think the swivel and pin are about an inch shorter than a shortshaft on the bottom end,not that it'll help anything.How were these setup without cable steering?I think Bridges said he has a steering arm setup.:smiletest:

[largecar91]

I was going to toss a T2 powerhead on my 150 shortshaft on my Checkmate to break in the powerhead. I did a lot of measuring and I think if you were to make a small spacer for the powerhead and raise it up about 1/2" everything will fit right up. The problem(like some people on here told me but I had to see for my self), is that the bottom carb is very low and leaves no clearance for the steering arm(or the cowling pan). I measured a BP arm as well and you are right it is different.

[Raceman]

I was going to toss a T2 powerhead on my 150 shortshaft on my Checkmate to break in the powerhead. I did a lot of measuring and I think if you were to make a small spacer for the powerhead and raise it up about 1/2" everything will fit right up. The problem(like some people on here told me but I had to see for my self), is that the bottom carb is very low and leaves no clearance for the steering arm(or the cowling pan). I measured a BP arm as well and you are right it is different.

Sure seems like you'd be sacrificing driveshaft/crankshaft spline contact area with a half inch spacer. One of my T2's was on a pleasure boat when I found it, and even had a shiftable lower. They had one short wing plate on one side of the engine, and mechanical (ride guide type) steering hooked to it with an adapter on the transom. It seemed adequate for that application. I still have the old wing plate mounted on that engine, but didn't get the transom bracket with it.

[Jeff_G]

The T-2 swivel pin is different on the two motors. If you raise up the powerhead the drive shaft and crank will not mate properly on a shiftable lower. Steering bars were the only way they came form Mercury.

[Bruster]

Why couldn't you have a pair of 3/16 stainless steel plates laser cut that would go from the powerhead mounting studs (like steering bars) & go to the front of the motor meeting to fit the steering link?

[59powercat1400]

Baldad45, the steering arm is brazed on. I just cut one off to make a short shaft swivel pin. You have to get it hot as hell before it will press apart. Dick.

[dale robertson]

I think you might be able to make a gull wing "U" shaped bracket attached to the steering bar mounts that comes around the front of the motor. It's kinda hard to tell whether it would work since I haven't seen a real T-2 in about 30yrs., but from what I remember it might work. Try using some ceral boxes for a template along with a little duct tape.
Dale

[Raceman]

I just went and looked at the T2 I was talkin' about that was on a ski boat. As usual my memory played tricks. The "wing" that I was referring to on the rear actually was a rigid mount for the shift cable, adapted for the shiftable lower. It has a std T2 mid and it DOES have a conventional arm on it. The lower pan is cut and the lower carb is pretty much right on the arm. I didn't have good enough light to compare it to the arm on one of the 1500's or the Super BP in the same shadows, but it CAN be done.

[baldad45]

Thanks to all for the ideas and possible setups. I never would have guessed that the arm was brazed to the pin .Now I'm thinking it may be easier to fabicate a bolt on arm from steel plate or cast a AL one with tighter clearances to the swivil bracket . I've got all winter to figure it out ,I went to my lake today all frozen over except for a small area in the middle that a few hundred geese are keeping open.Two days of freezing rain so the highways are lots of fun!

[Raceman]

First thing I'd do is lift the powerhead off, remove the pan and set the powerhead back down, and then see what you have to work with. If the lowest carb bowl doesn't hit the arm you've got you can always modify the pan, or better yet fabricate a fiberglass copy so you don't have to whack up an original part.

[Bruster]

You know what that means.... http://www.iceshanty.com/ice_fishing/Smileys/default/water13.gif (http://javascript<b></b>:void(0);)


I went to my lake today all frozen over except for a small area in the middle that a few hundred geese are keeping open.

[baldad45]

I found this pic that I likely downloaded from here, if you look closely you can see the cutout for the steering arm. http://i37.tinypic.com/34pjfvk.jpgIs this your engine Raceman?

[baldad45]

I dismantaled the midsection of the T-ll ,the steering arm is 9" long vs 14 7/8 " on the regular 20" arm measured to the bottom of the spline. Would there be a problem to cutout 5 7/8" and welding it back together? Also the mounting surface on the arm is milled down 0.41" from the stock 1500 arm.The swivel bracket on the T-ll is the same as the 1250BP. Glen http://i33.tinypic.com/2zgg1nk.jpg

[baldad45]

http://i36.tinypic.com/kdljqx.jpg Shows where this bracket needs to be milled down 0.41.

[raymar]

baldad45
This is my T2X on a T2 mid-section. Raceman has not been able to find this one yet!!

Raymar

[bernie]

I was chief inspector at Mercury's plant 4 where we made all the steering arm swivel pin assemblies. That thing was so over-engineered it wasn't funny. Pressed together, staked, and furnace brazed. Took 9 tons to push apart if I remember right. Later we pressed them together and then electric welded them at the top surface - which is what I think is still being done today.

[baldad45]

Reassembled the T-ll with the steering arm and no pan ,it's tight 1/8"+ between carb and arm. So with the pan in place and cut out to clear the arm should be close to 1/4" clearance.No negative feedback on sectioning and welding the stock arm so I think thats the simplest solution. Raymar does this clearance match what you have? Better keep your guard up that Raceman is everywhere !Glen

[raymar]

Baldad,
Ijust looked at my engine and the clearance appears to be at 1/4" between the arm and the bottom carburetor bowl. The lower cowl pan had been notched out when I got this engine about 20-25 years ago.
Raymar

[baldad45]

A buddy who owns a machine shop pressed the 1500 arm apart shortened the shaft ,milled the back of the arm and reassembled .Now it's all coming together!h[IMG]http://i27.tinypic.com/281hjys.jpghttp://i29.tinypic.com/2qxuvyp.jpghttp://i27.tinypic.com/281hjys.jpg

[baldad45]

http://i29.tinypic.com/1zz4chy.jpghttp://i26.tinypic.com/34ysjso.jpg

[baldad45]

http://i25.tinypic.com/eaoyty.jpghttp://i32.tinypic.com/4jrhc7.jpg

[baldad45]

http://i31.tinypic.com/2zgt3z6.jpghttp://i25.tinypic.com/1dzk2p.jpg

[baldad45]

http://i30.tinypic.com/1taaz7.jpgJust need a couple more fuel line and primer fittings and install electric fuel pump . Should be finished tomorrow , find some avgas and goooooooooooo! Hope to have video by Tuesday.Glen

[Raceman]

You're puttin' a T2 on a Sidewinder?

Gotta' see more pictures.

[Dave S]

Hey RM thats a good combo. Fast hull with no chine walk. Just set it high.;) I had a buddy with a swinder. Walked..... Jacked 5 inches .... stoped walking. 30 years ago.:cheers: Used to have a guy.... Sandog in NY that ran a T2 on a Critchfeld 90+ mph..... made the cover on Hot boat mag....... Cruzzing Jamacia bay at 90......Set up.;)

[baldad45]

http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?pi=0&ps=20&sf=added&sa=0&sq=&dm=1 Started and ran alright ,but wouldn't come out of the hole. Following weekend increaced fuel pressure to 4-5# ,richened up idle needles to 11/4 turns and she screams and flys.

[largecar91]

can't get the link to work. wants you to sign in

[Droll]

can't get the link to work. wants you to sign in
It worked for me... BUT I came to my own Youtube site....

I am guessing THIS ONE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukG1bSokaNQ) would be the correct link ??

Arne Kjetil

[largecar91]

That worked, Thanks

[Old fiberglass]

http://i31.tinypic.com/2zgt3z6.jpghttp://i25.tinypic.com/1dzk2p.jpg

Could you explain the rail tracks ??

[baldad45]

The tracks are 3" drill pipe ,just lay them on the ground and into the lake no ties. The pipes are heavy so they stay put . Boat is sitting on a dolly with wheelbarrow rims ,12v winch lets it out and brings it in.Best part is we leave the pipes in the winter and since thiers no ties the ice just rides up the pipe in the spring.We have a couple of big Cat batteries for the winchs charged by solar panels so they can stay over winter and not freeze.We get batteries every 4-5 yrs from the hospital ,they have them to start their backup power plant . Works great and once setup costs nothing.Thanks Arne for fixing my vidio link !Glen

[baldad45]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JWUEUGNM4k 1st run too lean on idle,2nd run was great ,noone on the lake good conditions no cameraman. 3rd run 91 octane with the best booster I could find .Too much traffic and wakeboarding boats but a blast anyway.

[largecar91]

I would watch running it with no cowling. You might lean it out forcing that much air in the carbs.

[baldad45]

Thanks for the warning,I planned on running the cowl the next day but the lake was too busy so I didn't go out. Bottom carb had stuck needle and seat and was just pumping out the gas when I first primed it. Trying to keep an eye on that, but seems to be okay after I took it off and cleaned it up. I think it was that first sweep of ethanol cleaning out the fuel lines. The gas I drained from the hoses was black.Do you think it needs to be a little richer on the idle needles? It seems like it has to run a little to warmup and then it's okay.Glen