Help 2000 200 2.5 Efi

[lvnspeed]

I was running this weekend when I slowed down for the "No wake" zone. When I tried to get back up on plane the motor would not turn over 3000 rpm's. I went back to the dock and pulled the plugs and did a compression check all 6 holes were:
122
120
121
120
123
120
used a Mac compression gage
So then I checked the spark and had spark on all 6 cylinders
any idea what the problem might be?
ECU?

[elmo4x4]

Did you examine the plugs to see if one or some had been fouled by the slowing down? Seems as though it would have sputtered or something if water had gotten in the fuel so the plugs would be my first step since you can look at them free. Check plugs, fuel contamination, and throttle travel to make sure something didnt come unhooked.

[shawnjetton]

check the stator

[lvnspeed]

How do you check the stator?


Check and changed the plugs no go still 3000 sometime 4000 but no more than that.

I dumped the fuel fliter/water seperator it was all gas

[shawnjetton]

the only way i know how to check it is to change it.

[trashy]

Since you have spark on all 6 and put new plugs in, maybe it's fuel related. I'm just kind of taking a guess and by no means am I a mechanic. Was the primer bulb hard?

One other thought that comes to mind from my reading on here over time is maybe the tpi is not set right?

The stator could be an issue, but with you getting up to 4000 rpm I kind of doubt it. It doesn't hurt to test it though.

Do yourself a favor and spend the money on a Genuine Mercury Shop Manual for your motor (not an after market one). It gives instructions for testing/setting everything and is pretty easy to follow.

[elmo4x4]

I too am no mechanic but cant you put a timing light on it while running and throttle it up to 3 or 4 grand to see if the trigger is activating the higher speed timing? It should show sloppy or no firing on each cylinder. Maybe someone else can elaborate...

[fatjohnson73]

get a dva meter from napa. then get a manual. the manual will tell u to ohm every thing, but ive allways checked running or cranking output voltages.sometimes stater and triggers break down when the get hot. yes you can ohm them out but its so irratic its sometimes frustrating jiving numbers with the book. that works for me most of the time. the stater wires are yellow and come out from under the flywheel. the put out a/c power.i usually unhook them and do a cranking testwith the altanating current side of your meter.ive been working on alot of omcs lately,so im a little rusty on the mercs right now. mercs diognostics changed some when they lost the switchboxes and went to modules. i keep a spare module for my testing. u could have a bad module thats playing fits with other cylinders. they can do that.

[Wayne Cammidge]

Dva meter, CDM test harness, Spark gap Tester, Manual and a spare module.
Remember that a working CDM could still be defective and cause lot of problems with good CDM's, Engine also has Control module. Save yourself the headache. This system is not easy, even with all the equipement, it is a bit of quess work at the end. And swapping out of known goods parts. There is no real test for the control module, it is basically if all else tests okay then replace the control module. CDM's are relatively cheap and are used in a lot of applications so a good workshop should have them on hand or be prepared to put a few into the motor to try out.
These are a case of good luck

[TEXAS20225]

that reads 1k will tell you what you need to know its asimple test of restistance between red and blue leads and r/white and b/white leads its most likly the high side of the stator