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View Full Version : TECH HELP: '95 GMC Jimmy



pinbuoy
07-07-2002, 06:18 PM
2 weeks ago: radiator leak
1 week ago: alternator

TODAY: The truck died on the way home from the river. Now it sits in the parking lot of the local Moose Lodge. It acted like it ran out of fuel. I believe this truck uses an electric fuel pump. Is there a manual pump also? There doesn't seem to be a fuse for the electric fuel pump. Is it easy to change the electric fuel pump? How do I get at it? I had the CPI unit replaced about 2 years ago, so that's not the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

pinbuoy

PS: boat ran good!

Rickracer
07-07-2002, 06:31 PM
When you first turn the key on, you should hear the pump come on for approximately 2 seconds to pressurize the system. If you don't hear it, you may have a problem there. If you want, email me in the morning and I'll tell you exactly how to test it, where the fuse and relay is, etc. I don't have ALLDATA at home. :cool:

Laker
07-07-2002, 06:38 PM
Fuel pressure regulator or the Strange fuel distributor inside the intake is probably the problem. It feeds each injector and they seem to fail allot. Grab a service manual and change it out yourself. The dealers get 300 beans to do the job.

CDave
07-07-2002, 10:10 PM
Are you getting any spark at the plugs?

pinbuoy
07-08-2002, 07:11 AM
yup, got spark. The fuel distribution thingy inside the intake is the CPI unit. The CPI was replaced already at a cost of $700 bucks! Forgot to mention the battery died last week too!

pinbuoy

Laker
07-08-2002, 11:02 AM
Ouch... THey go bad quite often... I just check with my GM parts guy and he said Dealer cost on that part is 180 and list is right around 300. GM Part number is 17113583 I had one that came apart and filled the motor up with fuel.

Just Streamin
07-11-2002, 07:35 PM
If it's your fuel pump it is located inside of your gas tank. To replace it you have to take the gas tank out it is a pain in the butt to fix.

pinbuoy
07-11-2002, 10:03 PM
Thanks to all for your help. I just got my truck back today after 4 days in the shop. I told them it was the fuel pump, but they didn't believe me. They had a gauge on the fuel line and it was getting pressure. They changed the fuel filter, then the cap and rotor, then the entire distributor! Of course they finally ended up changing the fuel pump and that cured the problem. I'd be pissed except that they're not charging me labor and are also giving me all parts at their cost. I'm friendly with the owner, but they still suck as car mechanics!

pinbuoy

woodco
07-11-2002, 11:14 PM
They had spark at the plugs and changed all the electrical ????

:confused:

pinbuoy
07-12-2002, 06:56 AM
Yup, can you believe that crap! I couldn't question their decisions as I'm friendly with them. Our businesses share the same parking lot. So now I have a bunch of new parts I didn't need. I haven't seen the bill yet.....what a mess.

pinbuoy

Techno
07-13-2002, 08:32 AM
A few gremlins that can cause the parts changing disease.
The tank isn't getting vented and the car dies randomly, re-starts about a 1/2 hour later. Removing the cap when this happens produces a whooosh sound and the engine will restart.

My stinkin mercury(car) had heat sinks on the distributer. The part was shot, when it got hot the car would die and wouldn't re-start until the distibuter cooled. Sprayed with a shot of canned air so the fluid hit it would cool it and the car would restart. Fuel pump didn't run(had been pressurized), no spark. ( trouble shoot that sucker!)

enviromental proof electrical connectors aren't connected. Read all new cars. Caused a $1,000 dollar labor charge to find this on a fairly new corvette to get the brake lights working, connector in back wasn't connected! My '81 Caddy also had this problem, faults on the "check engine" was caused by a non electricaly but physicly connected connector. Sisters brand new Suv had starting gremlins and died twice, one of the engine connectors wasn't connected.


My guess is the bad alternator is what killed the battery, the battery carried the 'load' and finally couldn't take it anymore.
Depending on labor you should have your water pump changed when the you changed the alternator. The labor can cost more than the parts sometimes (niece payed $500 for a water pump! I paid $35 but my labor)

The cure to all this is get rid of that new car junk and get a good old Caddy. The pumpkin and drive shaft are as big or bigger than any trucks. The fuel system and electric system is dirt simple, if it don't work you can probably see why. The entire engine is workable meaning you can reach all of it. Engines are bigger than any modern car/truck and the drive ratio is comparable to a trucks ( so is the gas milage!) More interior room. They do have air bags but they are the other collapsable cars on the road.