View Full Version : Any reason this won't work?
STV_Keith
05-17-2008, 07:17 PM
Just had my buddy reseal my sportmaster and put a new water pump in it. He inadvertantly put a 1/2" water tube upper water pump housing on it and I want to go to the water tomorrow. My mid has the 3/4" water tube, so I thought I was screwed...
So I pulled out my 3/4" water tube and grabbed one of my old 1/2" water tubes, pulled the rubber gromet seal out of an old 1/2" water tube upper pump housing and put it over the end of the 1/2" tube, then put that tube and gromet seal up inside the rubber gromet at the base of the exhaust adapter for the 3/4" water tube.
I had to tap it in, so it's pretty tight. Ran the engine on the hose and it seems to be working fine.
Any reason this won't work?
Scott in MN
05-17-2008, 07:46 PM
That's the way my 245 has run for years.....How did you get that seal out of the pump housing without destroying it?
STV_Keith
05-17-2008, 08:15 PM
I started by putting a screw driver between the housing and seal, then pulling with a pair of needle nose. It did rip a small part of it like that, so I then took the screwdriver and came in from the impeller side and pushed it up.
Thanks!
Specialized P4-12
05-18-2008, 08:33 AM
if your running a 260 i would be careful and watch your temp at hi rpm.. i was told never to run a 1/2 tube on a 260.. not enough water... but i have also heard that it doesnt matter.. so.. good luck.. only one way to find out..
woodduck
05-18-2008, 08:55 AM
Once when I was married I swapped my 15" mid at home to a 20" I had luying there, it was a sat arvo and I did'nt want to go back to the workshop and get the longer tube. Rummaging around the house I noticed that the curtain rod in our bedroom was the right dia! Jeez I got in strife when she went to pull the curtains and the stick that i"d jamned in fell out! That curtain rod stayed in there for 6 months!
Scott in MN
05-18-2008, 08:58 AM
Keith, let us know your results. My 245 hasn't been over 9000 yet so I can't say for high rpm's, but at below 9000 my motor won't see over 120 degrees on the warmest days. When the water is cool I have trouble getting it much over 100 degrees. I had so much water at the powerhead (over 30 psi) I had to modify the water intakes to take in less. At idle is another story though....
funithesun
05-18-2008, 07:29 PM
My '92 260's only had 1/2" tubes
stoker2001
05-18-2008, 07:41 PM
Kieth,i have been ussing old school 1/2" modded upper WP housings on my 2.5 drag forever
you save substantial $ this way
You have to hacksaw about 3/4" or so off of the chimney to match the hieght of the 2.5 (3/4") one
Make sure the cut is true and square
then you go inside with a high speed air dremel porting bit and hog it out to match the 3/4" one
then glue on the 3/4" adapter/coupler and waalaw you are good to go at a third the cost
dont forget the alighning sleeve
racer
05-18-2008, 08:36 PM
Why not just use the liner from a new stock one in the high perf housing?
STV_Keith
05-18-2008, 11:19 PM
Worked fine today. A little less pressure than normal, but got me by. I'll get the right housing on it for my 3/4" water tube this week. Thanks!
MERC SCREAMER
05-19-2008, 10:05 AM
If the engineers at Mercury Racing wanted to provide a higher volume level of water flow by using the 3/4" tube (in the 2.5 offshore housing / 1 piece plate), then why would they use an essentially stock water pump base with a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer? Doesn't the 1/2" outlet of the water pump base negate the added vloume flow of the 3/4" tube?
I've been wondering about this since last year when I ran 2.5 offshores with CLE gearcase.
stoker2001
05-25-2008, 01:59 PM
Why not just use the liner from a new stock one in the high perf housing?
that is an option,but my housings seem to distort from heat in a short time
Externally the 1/2" housings are identical except for the taller outlet/chimney
again,all you have to do is port it internally at the outlet area and it will flow as good as the mega dollar 3/4" HIperf ones
NICE PAIR
06-26-2008, 11:02 AM
Kieth,i have been ussing old school 1/2" modded upper WP housings on my 2.5 drag forever
you save substantial $ this way
You have to hacksaw about 3/4" or so off of the chimney to match the hieght of the 2.5 (3/4") one
Make sure the cut is true and square
then you go inside with a high speed air dremel porting bit and hog it out to match the 3/4" one
then glue on the 3/4" adapter/coupler and waalaw you are good to go at a third the cost
dont forget the alighning sleeve
stoker2001 is correct,I've been doing this for years, It works. I just put the housing on the drill press and run a 3/4" drill bit down thru the housing.(don't go to deep) Saves $$$.
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