Light Meters

[bishopg]

Are these a good investment? It appears to me, someone just starting out, that it would speed setup.

[Scream And Fly]

That depends on what camera(s) you're using and the type of photography you're interested in. Most of the time I would say yes, a good light meter is never a bad idea, but most of today's DSLR onboard meters are very accurate now.

[bishopg]

Thanks for the reply! I am using a D80 with 18-200mm VR zoom nikkor. I am trying to enhance my action shot such as running boats. I thought it might help because now I spend a lot of time adjusting by the time I think it is right most of the action is complete. What brand would you recommend?

Thank
Greg Bishop

[pyro]

What are you having trouble adjusting? What's the problem? What are you looking to improve?

Set your D80 to -0.3 or -0.7 EV to keep highlights from washing out. This may also help you shoot a tiny bit faster with the slower lens.
Set color mode to IIIa, you can turn on image saturation enhancement if you want, but sometimes it's a bit over the top when the colors are already bright.

-chad

D80/70-200vr

[Scream And Fly]

Yes, what Chad says is good advice. The D80 will meter a tad on the hot side, so dial back the exposure. Remember it's always better to underexpose than to overexpose. Once blown, highlights are most often not recoverable. And now for my advice:

Never use the "scene modes" that the D80 has - start off in Aperture Priority since it will teach you the interaction between aperture and shutter speed. It will also introduce you to other facets of lens dynamics. From there, do what I do - full manual, it's the only way to shoot for full and absolute control. Get rid of the automatic mode safety net - once you go full manual, you'll never go back.

Remember, expose for highlights, set white balance manually (white card is fine or shoot RAW) and practice practice practice. Soon you'll actually get a 'feel' for how the camera is focusing and your hit rate will be great.

When I shoot action, I go by what I see, aim carefully, and feel the camera working. It sounds strange, but that's how it goes for me. Remember that autofocus is a tool - you need to drive it properly for it to do its job.

Here's an example of a shot exposed for highlights - my friend Jeff at a recent race. White uniforms (and gelcoats) can be very tough.

This was shot 12-bit RAW (lossless compressed), Nikon D300/70-200VR, F3.5, ISO 400.
http://i28.tinypic.com/21lv280.jpg

[bishopg]

Thanks for the help....practice is what I am needing most.

Greg

[David Alaniz]

Yes, what Chad says is good advice. The D80 will meter a tad on the hot side, so dial back the exposure. Remember it's always better to underexpose than to overexpose. Once blown, highlights are most often not recoverable. And now for my advice:

Never use the "scene modes" that the D80 has - start off in Aperture Priority since it will teach you the interaction between aperture and shutter speed. It will also introduce you to other facets of lens dynamics. From there, do what I do - full manual, it's the only way to shoot for full and absolute control. Get rid of the automatic mode safety net - once you go full manual, you'll never go back.

Remember, expose for highlights, set white balance manually (white card is fine or shoot RAW) and practice practice practice. Soon you'll actually get a 'feel' for how the camera is focusing and your hit rate will be great.

When I shoot action, I go by what I see, aim carefully, and feel the camera working. It sounds strange, but that's how it goes for me. Remember that autofocus is a tool - you need to drive it properly for it to do its job.

Here's an example of a shot exposed for highlights - my friend Jeff at a recent race. White uniforms (and gelcoats) can be very tough.

This was shot 12-bit RAW (lossless compressed), Nikon D300/70-200VR, F3.5, ISO 400.
http://i28.tinypic.com/21lv280.jpg

If a D-300 would have been on auto with a 18-200vr could it have managed an action shot like this? Really nice!

Thanks.....

[Scream And Fly]

If a D-300 would have been on auto with a 18-200vr could it have managed an action shot like this? Really nice!

Thanks.....

A D40 could do it, just like any SLR can with a competent photographer using it, and a decent lens helps too. :) Sure, the D300 could do it on auto mode, but it won't be as easy or as consistent. As for the 18-200, if I had the choice I would never use that lens to shoot any action, but in a pinch it could work. Just make sure you have plenty of light. The 18-200 is basically a general purpose "all in one" lens, not really designed for action photography.

[Fish]

A D40 could do it, just like any SLR can with a competent photographer using it, and a decent lens helps too. :)

hahah, what Greg said. He set up my D80 for me and he used his Nikon. We both shot the same boats making passes from the back of my boat. The difference between a good photographer and a hack could not have been more obvious when we both posted essentially the same shots.

good post chad:thumbsup:

[Scream And Fly]

hahah, what Greg said. He set up my D80 for me and he used his Nikon. We both shot the same boats making passes from the back of my boat. The difference between a good photographer and a hack could not have been more obvious when we both posted essentially the same shots.

good post chad:thumbsup:


It just takes time Jody - you're doing very well. Get ready for the continuation of your Jedi training at the Ranch in less than two weeks. :)

[Fish]

true dat, My camera is still set the way you set it up last year... Only really takes good shots on bright days between the hours of 11 and 12:30 facing away from the sun, but I think I got that one down. Whats next??:p:p:p

[Scream And Fly]

true dat, My camera is still set the way you set it up last year... Only really takes good shots on bright days between the hours of 11 and 12:30 facing away from the sun, but I think I got that one down. Whats next??:p:p:p

Actually, the absolute best light is early morning, between 7-9AM. Mid-day sun is the worst.

[Fish]

Actually, the absolute best light is early morning, between 7-9AM. Mid-day sun is the worst.

Oh great, now you tell me;):D

[Scream And Fly]

Oh great, now you tell me;):D

Bring the camera to the Ranch and join me for the photo shoot. That will be a great learning experience.

[Fish]

Bring the camera to the Ranch and join me for the photo shoot. That will be a great learning experience.

I will. Thanks Greg, I am looking forward to it.:thumbsup:

[Scream And Fly]

I will. Thanks Greg, I am looking forward to it.:thumbsup:

Me too, it will be fun. If you want to get really serious, bring the laptop and I'll go through the entire process with you. I'll make a pro of you :)

[Fish]

Me too, it will be fun. If you want to get really serious, bring the laptop and I'll go through the entire process with you. I'll make a pro of you :)

awesome, thanks man!!!!:thumbsup:

[hsbob]

determine the mm at which your going to take your pictures. then as you prefocus chech that you speed in the camera's viewer is 1/mm. that the way to take sharp pictures.

remember the vr will assist in take low lite shots, but if somethings moving it will blure.

[pyro]

Even though it's a rule of thumb, I wish I could trust my shaky grip enough to shoot that slow. It seems like I need to shoot 1/500 or faster to keep everything sharp, particularly for action. I use higher ISO value to make up for the lack of speed when necessary. I'll take a grainy image over a blurry image any day. ;)

VR is really neat, but it has its limitations. It does a good job of stabilizing a really shaky, slow shot to make the photo useable, but it seems like it cannot ever make it perfect. Viewing at 1:1, a small degree of motion blur is almost ALWAYS still there.

[David Alaniz]

A D40 could do it, just like any SLR can with a competent photographer using it, and a decent lens helps too. :) Sure, the D300 could do it on auto mode, but it won't be as easy or as consistent. As for the 18-200, if I had the choice I would never use that lens to shoot any action, but in a pinch it could work. Just make sure you have plenty of light. The 18-200 is basically a general purpose "all in one" lens, not really designed for action photography.

What would you recommend for action shots like boat racing, grandkids sports? Thanks.

[pyro]

I'll jump in here, since I'm sure these would be Greg's recommendations too:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/items/124669.jpg
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124669-USA/Nikon_1986_80_200mm_f_2_8_ED_AF_D.html

or better yet...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/items/274780.jpg
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/274780-USA/Nikon_2139_70_200mm_f_2_8D_VR_G_AFS.html

The newer lens has VR, no appy ring, a better tripod mount that's easy to reposition or remove, and better all-around controls. Image quality of those two lenses is pretty close.

[hsbob]

yes pyro if you shoot faster it only helps and its just the min if you on the ground. in a boat it needs to be faster.

as far as lens dont over look the 70-200 sigma 2.8 its close the nikon but not quite as $$$

[Scream And Fly]

The only thing I can stress here is, don't overestimate the importance of VR (Vibration Reduction). I almost never use it. The last time I used VR was last year during a shoot for Mercury Racing while in a moving boat. It proved useful there, but overall it's not something I feel I need.

VR used here (set to active): Nikon D200/70-200VR
http://weblog.screamandfly.com/gallery/albums/userpics/mercury_catalog_stroker_4.jpg

[hsbob]

my niece's wedding photor???? used a canon vr to take none flash pics during the wedding. the static background was in focus but the slow shutter speed blurred the wedding party becaued they moved during the shutter open time.

greg tru it again when you at 2.8 and 1/60 and see what happens to the picture. this picture is lite enough for the vr to actually be an assistant. its the low lite that i have issues with the vr and moving objects.

ps good shot.