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BahamaBoy
03-25-2008, 07:57 AM
i was recently passed down a mastercraft (not sure of the model yet pics soon to come) that i plan to paint. I would not dare use a lacquer primer considerd 2k (urathane primer) but i am well aware that epoxy is best for the marine enviroment.

What i like to know is can i use a automotive epoxy primer and if not why?

RobF
03-26-2008, 06:05 PM
there are guys who will come on and say they used $10 primer and it worked fine, or that they used this automotive primer and paint and it worked fine.

I feel use something that will work 10-20-30 years from now.
Do it once, do it right.

Fact of the matter is "marine" epoxy primers are probably more reasonable then automotives- the market is smaller and in this segment they are very realistic. Use Awlgrip's or Alexseal's epoxy primers.


Topcoat it with a finish like Imron, or awlgrip- and it will outlast as long as you wish to own the boat and wont fly off in sheets should you go to repair it later on like some basecoat/clearcoat systems.

afr
03-26-2008, 06:17 PM
it really depends on how you would like it to look
and if you plan on sanding it ( auto epoxy dont sand well)
were algrip sands and fills well so you can fine tune your finish to what you want
ppg has a good one not to bad to sand

the key to any paint job is prep and being really really clean
did i say clean yep
clean clean clean
and it will all work well at what ever budget you have
but if there is any moisture trapped in the hull it will peel any of the auto primers and paint

SilvioB
03-26-2008, 09:06 PM
Epoxy primers have the strongest crosslink to most substrates and generally will not have "filling" properties that's why they don't sand well. As a matter of fact a lot of them can be topcoated without sanding within a certain time frame. They make a great barrier coat.
On the other hand the 2K urethanes are considered surfacer primers. They will have a higher film build and have to be finish sanded before topcoating. these are generally used to prime bodywork or repairs that will be blocked smooth before sealing or epoxing over.
Hope that helps..

BahamaBoy
03-26-2008, 09:58 PM
thank you for the answers gives me alot to think about

DonQ
04-15-2008, 08:35 PM
Go with coat of 545 awlgrip and follow with epoxy high build wet on wet if u like then spray light coat of black lacq as a guide coat befor sanding first 220 and final sand with 320 then reapply 545 or just paint awlgrip color after u clean clean and tack rag.

johnnyrotten
05-12-2008, 05:56 PM
i use 2k s and it for glass work on semis that have used them for they usually sand better than epoxys 3 coats of a 2k and 220 with a da sander and tou can fill small flat spots in fiberglass that people sand in with a da sander ,i have abused these products i mean hog them on till they run and come back the next day 120 the runs out and give her 2 more coats ,and guide coat them and your ready for sealer they work great if you get paid by the hour and longevity for saemis has been real good ,there are so many products out there it depends on your top coat too , good luck

johnnyrotten
05-13-2008, 07:45 AM
rob has the right idea with the imron except your basic person to spray imron may have some run issues,imrun!!!stays wet for a long time and if that secound coat goes on to soon you got a problem,if you take your time ,let first coat set up ,not stringy when you touch it ,like enamels ,you thinks its allmost dry leave it for a bout ten more minutes ,then give it another coat ,if need be shoot for gloss in a third coat it flows for a long time ,imron is made for cement mixers and semis ,the reason being is its chip resistence ,and resistence to acids ,imron 2000 is out there ,the best bet is base/clear ,or gel for a person who has not sprayed alot of products ,good luck do whats in the budget thats what it comes down to in the end any way

Carter Powell
05-31-2008, 04:41 PM
If you use Imron, thin it 10% and it will probably eliminate most of the chances of runs. Regardless of what DuPont says Imron is a very heavy bodied paint and NEED TO BE THINNED. It will also take a set sooner as a thinner coat will allow the thinner to bleed out quicker and the next coat can come a little sooner.

Carter Powell

johnnyrotten
06-01-2008, 02:41 AM
i have watched guys who have sprayed imrun for years , and they still get runs ,if you follow the cans directions it runs ,the more thinner ,and 3 coats ,the better it shines and the mills are there srrayed a couple of thousand of gallons of it and it s still imrun ,and you should know this being in the colder belt!!!!!!!!!!!!!:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::ro lleyes:

BahamaBoy
06-07-2008, 07:11 PM
i use 2k s and it for glass work on semis that have used them for they usually sand better than epoxys

:eek: I was always afraid to use 2k s on boat out of concern that the talc and micro baloons that make them so easy to sand may suck some water and swell, they sur are a joy to sand :D

XstreamVking
06-09-2008, 12:44 PM
A good way to go with any paint project is to stick with the same companys product line. Over the years i have had good results with the awlgrip line for solid colors, and imron for metalics. 545 awlgrip primer is in my case been very easy to work with. After many crappy paint jobs that have driven me crazy i kind of came up with a solution to runs and dirt. Do all of your prep work and spray on several coats of whatever paint you choose. After it sets overnight sand it down and give it one carefully sprayed coat. By just dealing with with one spray job, it's much easier to avoid runs and dirt. If the color coat is not broken through, just shoot on some clear. Hope this helps...

BahamaBoy
06-12-2008, 02:35 PM
Do all of your prep work and spray on several coats of whatever paint you choose. After it sets overnight sand it down and give it one carefully sprayed coat. By just dealing with with one spray job, it's much easier to avoid runs and dirt. If the color coat is not broken through, just shoot on some clear. Hope this helps...

simular to what the automotive guys call a flow coat great idea, i am leaning towards imron although my local supplier does not carry a clear for it, i love awlgrip but the price ($200 for 2qt kit), not this time.

johnnyrotten
06-13-2008, 09:09 AM
you should be able to order the IMRON 5000 clear ,at your local paint store