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View Full Version : Tillar Arm bolt ? for STV



RC51
03-22-2008, 09:30 PM
I have my STV in a million pieces since i'm in the process of painting it. When I rig it back up I'm puting a hydraulic steering system on it. I've read about the bolt several people are concerned about breaking which has raised some issues with me. So, I've priced out going with a Sea Star 2.4 helm, Imco tilt pin, ram and wing plate. Then hoses. I've read here and on other web sites that it has been done sucessfully. I come up with $1,800 bucks plus custom hoses. I'm guessing they would be about 100 bucks a piece which would be a total of 2k. The Sea Star Pro would be $800 with oil. So, about $1,200 more for the imco set up with the side ram.

Don't get me wrong, I'm no apposed to spending the extra money. It's just that I've talked to several credible people in the industry that believes you just need to replace that bolt every season and make sure it's always good and tight. They then go on to say that's how Mercury Racing does it and that they should know a thing or two. I know there has been failures. But, who really knows the history of that bolt and if it was good and tight during the accidents we all read about. It's really anyone's guess.

But, the main reason I'm posting is to ask a question about the Sea Star Pro set up. After looking at several photos of the unit it looks like you could very easily drill out the tillar arm bolt hole, drill out the Sea Star bracket and put in a larger bolt. It looks like you could go up to a 1/2 inch bolt rather easily. I'm probably wrong seeing as I've never read about anyone doing this before. But, it just seems like an easy way to make it a little safer.

If you can do that I think I would go the Sea Star route w/ a 1/2 inch super strong bolt and replace it every year.

Just looking for some opinions on which way to go. I have to order something with in the next week. Any suggestions would be great.

Thanks!

Fish
03-22-2008, 09:40 PM
here is a good start

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106917&highlight=seastar

SatisfAction
03-22-2008, 09:45 PM
Make sure it is a "Grade 8" bolt and be sure that it is tight.

RC51
03-22-2008, 10:08 PM
Ok, but can you actually drill it out and put a larger bolt in it with the Sea Star Pro set up?

mr_velocity
03-22-2008, 10:12 PM
Make sure it is a "Grade 8" bolt and be sure that it is tight.

ARP makes a grade 8 stainless bolt, they are available at www.totallystainless.com

RC51
03-22-2008, 10:18 PM
Seeing as you can get say a 1/2" grade 8 bolt. Wouldn't you be able to drill out the tillar arm and the bracket on the Sea Star Pro beefing it up a little? It doesn't seem as though people have a problem with the Sea Star Pro set up other then the fact that it still has the single bolt issue.

Just thinking if it can be done someone out there has done it before.

Fish, thanks for the link.

kimswang
03-23-2008, 12:10 AM
I use the front cylinder type on mine. I have two systems mounted and wing plates to connect three engines (1000HP..). I took out the tiller arm and beefed them up by adding steel to them, then I proceded to use two 3/8" bolts instead of one. It is working great and I have no concern about the safety, however, when $$$ allows I will change to IMCO external steering with IMCO parts all the way, then add the hydraulic / electric power steering pump from seastar.