need help on a 2.0

[capnzee]

I am attempting to prepare a 2.0 engine for the Parker 300 mile enduro. The rules state the carbs venturi's must read no more than 1 5/16 inches. The boat must weigh no less than 1350 lbs. The lower unit must be stock but a low water pick-up, such as a Bob's nose cone, may be added. The ignition must remain stock for the 2.0s but the timing can be bumped. Any hints on getting a few more horses out of a 2.0 yet keeping it alive for 300 miles?:) Capnzee

[302w]

Heads, reeds, Velocity stacks, and a 2.4 200 tuner are some inexpensive mods that I did to mine execpt the tuner.

[capnzee]

Thats great, Now I have a start on my wish list. , Now, how much off the heads, remember, I gotta go 300 miles! Capnzee

[T-REX]

The amount U take off the heds will depend on the heds U have...

If it's a horz mota, use 4 peddle cages and TDR single stage reeds...If it'z a vert mota, U have to do sum mod's to the manifold to use the 4 peddle cages, so it may not be legal for U, so U will be stuch with 5 peddle cages, so use TDR reeds(find sum 5 peddle chrysler cages, they flow better than mercury)...Be flexable with the carbs, and the geer ratio...U may find a smaller venturi carb, and a 1:87 geer will be better than a lower geer and bigger venturi(it will be a answer only testing will answer)...The 200, 2.4 tuner will work, but if U cut it off 1", it will work a lil better for yo application(constant upper rpm)...Exsperiment with time'in and jett'z...more jet and higher time'in will sumtimes give better top numbers safely, but in sum motas(with same compression) the lower time'in and smaller jetz will make more top end power...LEEVE THE MOTA ON THE RICH SIDE)...unlike the general consensus, a piston port mota DON'T perform better ON THE FENCE...It takes fuel to make HP, and the 2 liter run's better a lil on the rich side...Also the mota may turn a few more RPM with the larger 40 amp flywheel!!!...Don't git excited and thank "Ther goes my crank", kuz tha lil mota prolly won't turn over 7500 wit tha prop off...The add'd weight ov the flywheel will help the lil mota keep it's top end numbers because ov the rotate'in weight ov the flywheel...Also compare the airbox to the velosity stacks...the air box MAY juss out do the velosity stacks(depends on ya cover)...A merc Mod-VP stack iz the better ov all...

Hope this helps...2 liters play differnt than thier big brothers, and sumtimes ya wind up with a combo thats in leff field, but juss give it what it ask for!!!...

[capnzee]

Thankya
T-rex you've given me a place to start. I can do about anything that I want except for the carbs must be no more than the 1 5/16 inch measured at the venturi and I must run the stock ignition system. Thanks for the input! Capnzee

[Capt.Insane-o]

150-160 psi on compression. More does'nt always mean more top end. Plus it'll save a little on your pocket then having to run race fuel. The 2.0's are a tough little bastard and hard to kill. What is going to determine making 300 miles is your attention to detail in machining and assembly.

[capnzee]

T-Rex. What does it take to put a set of the Chrysler Reeds on the Merc
2.0's? Would you happen to have a set? Are you in a position to put together a set of the Chrysler Reeds and a 120 bare block, ship'em to me and if so, what cost? Also, I am concerned about running more than 145 psi, Your thoughts and what CC would the heads have to be to run a compression of whatever it is you recommend for an engine you want to live and run on 92 octane fuel.

[T-REX]

I can do about anything that I want except for the carbs

Capp, I will see haw many Chrysler cages I have, but I wuz under the impression U couldn't do any cutt'in(Don't no why)...Bein able to do ANYTHANG to tha mota open a hole new can ov worms...

Cut the original reed cages to the square opening like the Hi po motas, and use TDR reeds(if U use a vert front)...if ya use a Herz front mota, use 4 peddle rubber cages and tdr's...

If anythang goes, cut fingerports in the lil mota, and cut them all the way down to floor...Az for port hieghts, the stock hieghts may give the best performance for your intended rpm range....redirect the exhaust ports(down), cut out the back juss slightly(leeve 1/8th inch ov the lowest part ov the chest floor)...Be sure and use the 2.0 exhaust cover from the early mota, it iz thicker, and helps put back the backpressuer U took out when redirect'in the exhaust...I would also widen the exhaust ports an 1/8th ov an inch on each side(the 2.0 haz small ports) this will help offset the addition ov fingerports, without change'in port time'in...These additions will give U add'd power without have'in to depend on compression, which in a long distance iz yo enemy...Bein able to make the power and keep the compression around 135-140 and use 92 octain, should take the worry out ov runn'in balls to the wall for distance...

Are U gunna run the small block 2.0, or the big block??....

On the 120 block...I don't have a 120 block, I have started use'in the OLD late 70's blocks...Juss to see which makes more power, but ain't got to the compare'in stage yet....My cup runnith over rite now...I have a race in 2 weeks, and have no motor ready and boat is not even primed yet(still on rotisiry)...Fork'in Crazy haz been took over tha Lil Allison project to take off that load...I will help in any way, kuz it sound like a fun thang your doing, and to proove the 2liter kan still kick ass when rules allow it to compete!!....Good luck, keep me posted, REX

[capnzee]

T, I've got time on my side! Race is in October. I am working on the HST as we speak. You may find that you have some time to build a 2.0 block. You asked if I was going to use the big block or the small block--I didn't know there was a difference. All I know is that we have to use a 2.0 block, I think that converts to 122 cu. in. If you think you may have some time in the future to prep a block for me, let me know the cost etc. Rod

[T-REX]

Rod, The small block(az I call it) iz the early model, pre 91...it haz small mains, and iz ov the old 2.0/2.4 style....the "Big Block" iz nuth'in more than a 2.5, sleevend to a 2liter...It'z NOT behind the liner like a 2.5, but juss haz thick sleeves...The "Big Block iz a few pounds lighter than the lil block, kuz the lil block haz heavier sleeve arangement(the sleeves are actually hunks ov cast iron, with the aluminium poured around it!!)

Az for the 2liter block, I have a fresh mota built now...It iz actually a 2.4 block, with 2liter fingerported sleeves in it...it haz thin ring, mercury race pistons, and horz front with 1/2 inch spacer...I built the motor for myself to run on my lil boat for the Jasper river run(wanted to run a good pace but git good fuel economy)...With the small venturi carbs it would turn a 26" Yamaha 7700 wit 2 people and 12 gallons ov gas....I have to use the electronikz off the mota for my SS mota, so if U are interested in the mota(less electroniks and flywheel) juss let me know...I also have 2 extral sleeve for tha mota(I had to buy 8 at a time)...

Now, I wuz gunna swap the front for a vert front to see if the tighter manifold would help torque, but haven't got to it yet...I will sell it with which ever front/manifold U want. or both!!.....

Mota haz very low hours, BUT HAZ BEEN STRESS TESTED!!:D ....Juss let me know which route ya wanna take...REX

[stvracer08]

i dont know how it work out in your case but i have 86 2.0 that was a 135 i have done 200 carbs horizonal front half shaved the heads dont know the cc with 1:87 gears on dyno its putting out 225 hp

[stvracer08]

i dont know how it work out in your case but i have 86 2.0 that was a 135 i have done 200 carbs horizonal front half shaved the heads dont know the cc with 1:87 gears on dyno its putting out 225 hp its got 23 degress timing

[us1]

150-160 psi on compression. More does'nt always mean more top end. Plus it'll save a little on your pocket then having to run race fuel. The 2.0's are a tough little bastard and hard to kill. What is going to determine making 300 miles is your attention to detail in machining and assembly.

You left one thing out. Tubes ;)

[capnzee]

T-Rex, send me some numbers($$$) on the 2.0 engine of your choice. We are required to run the 1 5/16 carbs and MAY NOT run the electronic ignition. If you prefer, call me at (310) 488-3563 or e-mail me at [email protected].

[capnzee]

TTTT, been wait'n for a call from yu on the 2.0! Rod (310) 488-3563