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jwokmuba2
03-16-2008, 08:01 PM
I have a friend who has a newer model ski boat and he wants me to put 2 12" subs, 4 6"x9" speakers and 4 more 6" speakers in his boat, the subs will be in bow of the boat facing back, the 6"x9" speakers will be hanging from the ski rail, and the 4 6" speakers will be in the center and aft of the boat. Now have put in plenty of stereo systems in cars and trucks to know how eveything is goin to be wired :cool: but the problems that i im goin to run into on the boat i dont know about :eek: . I would like to know where to put the amps, and where to hide the wires, how to make new spearker holes, and any unforeseen problems :confused: that may ocure, any advice will be taken seriously and thankfully.....:D

:)

Trippin
03-17-2008, 07:37 PM
Well the first thing you should do is get a good look at the layout of his boat, where the engine is in relation to the batteries, where the din unit is located/will be located. Obviously as you're aware keeping those amps cool is critical. I've seen so many boats, in fact I was working on one today with 2 heavy hitters located in the cabin, under a cooler, inside a non-ventilated compartment, right next to where I installed a cooler chiller/ ac unit. Talk about some heat being generated there. They'll fry this summer. Anyways, the subs really should go in the rear of the boat behind the driver and passenger. There should be room back there to install them. Just under the rear seat I suspect. Obviously the 6x9's and the other drivers don't really need to be cooled, you should be alright mounting them pretty much anywhere. I suggest mounting the amps under the rear seat where the subs should be mounted and cutting a ventilation hole in the bulkhead and install a circ fan or two to keep fresh air moving around inside that stale compartment. Fans that are turned on when the amps come on. I really think that your customers idea of mounting the subs up front is a poor location. There won't be enough airspace up there for good sound conductivity and I think it will just sound disproportionate in that boat, if I'm envisioning it correctly.

One other thing I feel is very important is that you install a battery isolator system and have a dedicated battery which is used solely for electronics and other non-critical operating systems. Utilizing one or both of the boats starting batteries for a high amperage draw thumping system is asking for other electrical nightmares. Remember the environment you're working in, lots and lots of water, everywhere, all the time. Corrosion will build up fast on monster cable and all of those pretty automotive gold anodized fuse blocks and connections because none of it is meant for the marine environment.

On that note, skip the fancy fuse blocks and monster cable use marine conductor for all of your wiring and use marine breaker assemblies and waterproof fuse holders for your power connections. Forget pretty, it just won't last in a boat. Especially a ski boat, and you can count on your customer calling you frequently about channels not working, crackling in speakers etc. God forbid the boat would ever see salt water, then your really gonna have trouble.

Been there done that, let me know.

jwokmuba2
03-17-2008, 09:12 PM
thanks for all the intell, but again i dont know that much about boats so here are a few ?s. DIN unit... what is it what does it do. where i the bulkhead should the vent holes be, does it matter, batter isolater system-i suspect that is just a second battery connected to the alternator and used souly for the amps and stereo. where to get the marine conductor wires, marine breaker assemblies and water proof fuse holders, thanks again for your help....

:D

Trippin
03-18-2008, 08:03 PM
DIN unit.... I thought that was common terminology in the stereo installation world. Dash INstallation unit, or Digitial Input, whichever fits. The vent holes should be located in such a manner as to provide for the best air circulation through the compartment. A couple of holes about 3" in the highest location possible then ducted down towards the amps would be best. 1 fan pushing the other pulling.

The 3 bank battery isolator system is essentially a 3 bank diode which is connected to 3 batteries and effectively "isolates" all 3 from each other, while simutaneously allowing all to charge proportionately. It has 4 connections, 3 go to the batteries, while the other connects to the alternator or charging source whatever the case may be. This system will allow you to provide continuous amperage to the thumpin system without depleting the main batteries, and thus allow the user to return to the dock after sitting in the middle of the lake all day with the motor off and the system thumping. They're also available in 2 and 4 bank systems.

All of your wiring needs can be found at any larger "discount" marine supply store. They all rip you off so I won't suggest any here. You might actually get a better deal and some further professional opinions in the matter at a local marina or boat repair facility. I would suggest you utilize the latter first.

As far as hiding the wiring that is the easy part, there are lots of way to hide the wires in a boat, that's the least of your concern.

Let me know.