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BASSIN
06-18-2002, 09:14 PM
Hi guys need a little advice
Have a cracked cowl I want to fix up. should I use a layer of by-directional glass on the inside? And what do you recomend I do to finish the out side(kind of splintered):eek:
Any help would be great:)

AlaskaStreamin
06-19-2002, 10:08 AM
Is the cowl fiberglass or plastic??

BASSIN
06-19-2002, 03:03 PM
Forgot to mention the cowl is glass.
The splinters are just the lose fibers.
thanks again:)

AlaskaStreamin
06-19-2002, 04:54 PM
Can you post a picture??

You may need to releive the crack with a jig saw before you repair it. (I have to see it first).
You want to fix the area with the same material that it was made with. If you make it stiff in the repair area, it may crack around your patch.

BASSIN
06-19-2002, 08:49 PM
I will see if I can take some this weekend.
The cowl looks like it is made from by-directional glass.
The crack does not go right through just flexes, and has left strands exposed on the surface.

I have used a can opner to open up cracks before (don't laugh) I drag the point along the crack. Then use west systems 404 high density fillet to fill it back in. Will this work for a cowling? I also find the high density gets so hard it takes forever to finish. Any alternative fillers out there?

AlaskaStreamin I will try and get pictures this week end.


Thanks again



:)

AlaskaStreamin
06-20-2002, 10:32 AM
Is this a factory cowl or an aftermarket one?? The factory cowls have alot of wax impreginated in them due to the injection process. Epoxy would work best for these. If it's an aftermarket cowl, It should be chopped strand (mat) and cloth.

A can opener huh?? Hey,...if it works....... :D

BASSIN
06-20-2002, 09:17 PM
Alaskastreamin the cowl is factory. Oh ya the can opener thing I got from an old glass book. The can opener tip opens a vee groove for filling.

Oh well when your a do it your selfer you'll try anything once.:D

And don't forget a few years ago I didn't have all these brains to pick:p

thanks again streamin still working on the pics. Wish I could talk my wife into a digital camera

AlaskaStreamin
06-20-2002, 10:26 PM
That's Ok if you can't get one. I know what you have now. If the damaged area isn't "pooched out", You won't need to "cut it". Put a piece of tape over the outside incase of any seepage. Wipe down the inside with acetone BEFORE you sand. Use 80 grit minimum to rough up the surface (on the inside). Before we go any further, where is this damaged area?? Are you having fun yet??
:p

BASSIN
06-24-2002, 11:56 AM
The crack runs vertically from the top to the bottom of the cowl, right in the corner where the side meets the back. The cowling is an OMC so the corner is rounded. Is the tape to stop the acetone from seeping through?

Streamin I espeacally like the going to bed part and pulling the blankets up YIKES can you say slivers:D

AlaskaStreamin
06-24-2002, 12:53 PM
Hey Bassin,

Is it cracked all the way through? Is it still holding it's shape when removed?? Answer these and we'll get to work. I've repaired several broken cowls(factory ones).

I'm just trying to picture what you have so I don't steer ya in the wrong direction. It'll be an easy fix. I promise!:D

AlaskaStreamin
06-24-2002, 12:54 PM
Hey Bassin,

Is it cracked all the way through? Is it still holding it's shape when removed?? Answer these and we'll get to work. I've repaired several broken cowls(factory ones).

I'm just trying to picture what you have so I don't steer ya in the wrong direction. It'll be an easy fix. I promise!:D

BTW, what caused the crack??

BASSIN
06-25-2002, 12:02 PM
Hi Ron

The crack does not go right through, and it does hold its shape. There is no break visible on the inside of the cowl(mat seems to be intacked). The major part of the damage is the cracks on the out side. The gel coat looks heaved just slightly higher than the finished cowl.

How it happened

The cowl was sitting in the garage on its nose(front of the cowl)along with a few of the friends. When one of them stumbled while getting up, stablizing himself by putting his hand down on the back of the cowl CRACK :eek:
Did I mention achoholic beveridges:p

AlaskaStreamin
06-25-2002, 01:53 PM
It looks like an outside repair would be the best way.
Trim back any decals about 1 1/2" around the damage, wipe the outside with Acetone to remove any contaminates, Grind or sand the crack till you get to solid glass. Since the crack is on a outside corner and the sanders are flat, you'll end up with a flat spot running vertically with the crack that should be around 2" wide. (Even a belt sander will work if you don't have acess to a grinder). You'll want to end up with the roughest grit you can find. You can hand sand if you need to with the rough stuff. I use 16 & 24 grit but no finer than 40 grit. Don't wipe the repair area with anything that could lay down the fibers that are now standing up. (I use a dust broom or compressed air). Mask around the repair area with a couple layers of tape then some wax paper.

You can use either Epoxy or polyester resin. Cut your first piece of material to the size of the masked area.

(With resin, never put a cloth or woven roving down first or next to each other. The weave holds too much resin and is brittle. Use a mat first and between the woven fabrics. I think these rules don't apply with the epoxies).

Every piece over this one will be a little narrower. After it's built up close to the level you want, cover it with some waxed paper and gently spread over it with a rubber squeegie or bondo spreader (side to side). This gently presses out any excess resin and fairs the glass edges for a smooth contour. Once dry, peel off the wax paper and only minimal sanding will be needed.


I know this is a rough discription of the repair. I'll go into greater detail if you need it. Just ask. Hope this helps.