Flywheel Question

[georgiariverrat]

I have a '91 2.5 200 carb motor and was replacing the stock flywheel with a lightweight aluminum flywheel. My question is, Are there any timing changes that need to be made or should the timing be checked after installation? This is just a flywheel swap out only.

[j_martin]

I have a '91 2.5 200 carb motor and was replacing the stock flywheel with a lightweight aluminum flywheel. My question is, Are there any timing changes that need to be made or should the timing be checked after installation? This is just a flywheel swap out only.

Timing is dependent on magnets in the flywheel. (the inner ones) I'd check it for sure.

John

[T-REX]

By all meenz check it.....

[georgiariverrat]

By all meenz check it.....


Timing is dependent on magnets in the flywheel. (the inner ones) I'd check it for sure.

John

Thanks... I thought that would be the answer I got!!:)

[Martymarr76]

I just replaced my BP with a light weight Flywheel and didn't have to adjust timing but motor was just rebuilt and timing was adjusted. She runs smoother and idles better now!!!!! I would check timing if it hasn't been adjusted in awhile.

[j_martin]

I just replaced my BP with a light weight Flywheel and didn't have to adjust timing but motor was just rebuilt and timing was adjusted. She runs smoother and idles better now!!!!! I would check timing if it hasn't been adjusted in awhile.

You could luck out and the magnets be exactly the same, but if they're wrong you could grenade the motor in exchange for being too lazy to check the timing.

I'd check it.

[Martymarr76]

You could luck out and the magnets be exactly the same, but if they're wrong you could grenade the motor in exchange for being too lazy to check the timing.

I'd check it.what dose that mean gernade? She runs good is that bad?

[j_martin]

I said "you're lucky".

If it was a few degrees off - fast, it could grenade, as in hit you in the back of the head with flying rod caps and pieces of flywheel.

Just because you didn't need to adjust timing doesn't mean that it doesn't need to be checked.

hope it helps
John

[Martymarr76]

I said "you're lucky".

If it was a few degrees off - fast, it could grenade, as in hit you in the back of the head with flying rod caps and pieces of flywheel.

Just because you didn't need to adjust timing doesn't mean that it doesn't need to be checked.

hope it helps
John
****, I was told that it was fine. I had my Mechanic put on the flywheel because I didn't have a puller. He put an aluminum flywheel from his old bp on it and told me I didn't need to adjust timing? Now i am Leary I run the **** out of that bp on that sweet 16, what do I have to do to check timing without paying for Mechanical labor. Oh by the way he left the puller in my boat!!!!

[j_martin]

There's several schools of thought on the timing, but they all involve putting a dial indicator into #1 spark plug hole and finding some measure of stroke before TDC. The flywheel is marked .462, which coresponds with .462" before TDC. .150 before TDC is 25 degrees. Either one is a good reference. If you notice, the timing pointer is adjustable, and the first step is to check it with a dial indicator.

Then time it for 25 degrees at full advance cranking, unless there are timing modules on it. Then you'd have to look it up in the book, as it would be either 19 degrees or 22 degrees depending on the module.

There's preliminary timing at idle, and throttle pickup. If it run's ok, don't worry about it. If you want it to run real sweet, and also learn how yer engine works, go through a formal link n sync laid out in the factory service manual.

You can do it. It seems like a big task the first time, but after a couple of times you could do it in your sleep.

I gutted a spark plug, welded a tab to it, and rubber band a cheap digital caliper to it for a depth gauge. Works fine for me. There are other depth gauges made especially for the task.

BTW, any 2 cycle engine I ever blew up was running really sweet when it went. You actually have to tune them a little off, as in rich and slow, from peak or you can pretty well plan on melting something.

hope it helps
John

[Liqui-Fly]

The inner magnets are fixed on the inner hub and line up with the key way on the crankshaft. You should not have an issue.

[Martymarr76]

There's several schools of thought on the timing, but they all involve putting a dial indicator into #1 spark plug hole and finding some measure of stroke before TDC. The flywheel is marked .462, which coresponds with .462" before TDC. .150 before TDC is 25 degrees. Either one is a good reference. If you notice, the timing pointer is adjustable, and the first step is to check it with a dial indicator.

Then time it for 25 degrees at full advance cranking, unless there are timing modules on it. Then you'd have to look it up in the book, as it would be either 19 degrees or 22 degrees depending on the module.

There's preliminary timing at idle, and throttle pickup. If it run's ok, don't worry about it. If you want it to run real sweet, and also learn how yer engine works, go through a formal link n sync laid out in the factory service manual.

You can do it. It seems like a big task the first time, but after a couple of times you could do it in your sleep.

I gutted a spark plug, welded a tab to it, and rubber band a cheap digital caliper to it for a depth gauge. Works fine for me. There are other depth gauges made especially for the task.

BTW, any 2 cycle engine I ever blew up was running really sweet when it went. You actually have to tune them a little off, as in rich and slow, from peak or you can pretty well plan on melting something.

hope it helps
John
Thank you John apprecitate your time