Reliability...

[cocacola]

I have decided to sell my complete outboard (http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148246)(has CLE drive). I am not gonna part out as I feel it will take too long to sell and CLE is a big selling point.

With that said, I am gonna go with a stock fishin motor but need a Low Water Pickup due to hull configuration and engine mount. Currently with engine in lowest mounting hole, the cavitation plate is about 3"-4" out of the water on plane. Just how reliable are add on LWP nose cones on cooling and staying on? Does anyone ever weld them in place in addition to epoxy? Recommendations?

One more thing...my CLE was an integrated torque tab on skeg. I have dual NFB steering and figured steering would feel the same if new engine did not have torque tab. Comments?

[Eagle One]

Most LWPU kits are tack welded before fairing in with E-poxy,ours are always welded, although just e-poxy will often hold but I don't recommend it. The reliability of picking up water is fine although with a strictly bottom of the unit pick up style it is possible to lose water at excessive trim angle. You need a water pressure and a head temp gauge.. PERIOD. No substitute for knowing what's happening.

[Hottrucks]

reliable YES
pain Yes ...a nose cone WILL get cracks in the epoxy!!

I would use the CLE on your boat and sell the other motor with the stock lower..you won't regret it...it will sel either way if priced right

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

I would use the CLE on your boat and sell the other motor with the stock lower..you won't regret it...it will sel either way if priced right


What he said! I would not surface a non cle/sportmaster, day in day out. Smaller enternals, 2 piece shaft etc. Keep your cle, save some grief.

[cocacola]

You guys make sense in many ways. Is the CLE worth anymore than a standard drive? I felt selling existing engine with CLE would make it more sellable.

My new engine is a stock 200 that will stay that way. I see many bass boats with LWP and wonder if they will have trouble. This will be a 55-60mph rig most likely. I will not run more than a 21" prop, but probably a 19" as we ski/tube 90% of the time. A straight edge laid on the keel reveals about 3" of air space under the cavitation plate (engine setback is 10"). My engine will be run at 6k rpm max. By the way... engine will be lowered one set of holes. Not sure what center to center spacing of mount is, but I think it's more than 1". With that said, I will have less than 2" of air under cavitation plate. All this of course is with the engine in neutral trim (not tucked in or tilted). I do have a water pressure gauge.




What he said! I would not surface a non cle/sportmaster, day in day out. Smaller enternals, 2 piece shaft etc. Keep your cle, save some grief.

[Hottrucks]

if you have any ?'s about price check the for sale section and see...I think the cle's will sell for up 500 more..reason more desire and better bearing set up...as far as what you say your going to use it for it wouldn't make much differnce in a ski type boat

a quick lesson on measurements:
you did a good job using the straight edge on the keel BUT

you need to measure the center of the bullet ( or the prop shaft)
as a rule of thumb I use 1/8" up for each inch of set back...
in your case 10" of set back ='s 10/8 or 1 1/4 inches up ( measured as i suggested) I would try to set it at 1" or even for your use if your not using a jackplate....I beleive it will give you good all around performance. what you have now (just a guess) is about 2 inches below the pad and would work fine but I think your leaving alot on the table. Also before you buy a prop run it a bit I think that a Good 21 SS prop will be fine but you need to watch your tach and tune it to what you need
that my $.02
Jeff

[cocacola]

thanks. Not using a jackplate. See it here. My biggest fear is starving the engine of cooling water.

http://home.flash.net/~davidsan/Lavey%20Sebring/images/IMG_4500.JPG




if you have any ?'s about price check the for sale section and see...I think the cle's will sell for up 500 more..reason more desire and better bearing set up...as far as what you say your going to use it for it wouldn't make much differnce in a ski type boat

a quick lesson on measurements:
you did a good job using the straight edge on the keel BUT

you need to measure the center of the bullet ( or the prop shaft)
as a rule of thumb I use 1/8" up for each inch of set back...
in your case 10" of set back ='s 10/8 or 1 1/4 inches up ( measured as i suggested) I would try to set it at 1" or even for your use if your not using a jackplate....I beleive it will give you good all around performance. what you have now (just a guess) is about 2 inches below the pad and would work fine but I think your leaving alot on the table. Also before you buy a prop run it a bit I think that a Good 21 SS prop will be fine but you need to watch your tach and tune it to what you need
that my $.02
Jeff

[Hottrucks]

I would worry if your running a stock lower but with the cle it has low water pick up

[BUZZIN' DOZEN]

Looks like the Professor got Gilliagan onto S. N. F!:D