hsbob
12-20-2007, 01:15 PM
1. there's a lot of you getting SLRs. dust is a problem when you change lens. it gets on the CCD and you can sometimes see it in your pictures. when you change lens. make sure there's no wind blowing , if so do it in a car, home ..... when you change the lens point the camera down and change the lens in that position only. use a lens change bag if possible.
2. most SLRs can shoot raw [and jpg], i use the jpg for sharing in the field. then the raw is converted to jpg or tiff. the conversion allows for correcting lite and white point settings. the camera does a fair job but doing it yourself add to corect colors.
3. dont get those extra large camera cards, but several medium size fast cards. it you put 200 pictures on one card and it gets lost or corupted you loss all. the high speed cards allow you extra pictures per time period. it may only add 1 or 2 pictures of that moving boat but that maybe the one you wanted and the camera is still right to the slow card with a full buffer.
4. printing. most printers are only 300x300 pixels [dots] to get the higher numbers they count the number of colors they can put into that dot. if you have a 12meg camera and dump that picture to the printer. the printer has to do the down conversion to the 300x300. you are better served by let the picture software [ photoshop, photo elements.... good SW] do that conversion then sent a 300x300 picture to the printer. when you convert in the SW you need to resize the image to 300 doi [300x300]. i have seen picture converted by a good photo printer and the SW pictures, the sw is always better.
5. if you have a 200 mm lens on the camera you need to shoot at or faster than 1/200 of a sec shutter speed. you may need to manually open the lens to get that shutter speed. if you dont the picture will be fuzzy from motion. the stablized lens only help on the static objects, the moving ones will be fuzzy.
6 get a high powered flash and bounse it off the ceiling indoors. that way the red eye disappears and the photo will be filled with lite, and not just the main object.
thanks for bearing thru this but it thought it may help some of you.
2. most SLRs can shoot raw [and jpg], i use the jpg for sharing in the field. then the raw is converted to jpg or tiff. the conversion allows for correcting lite and white point settings. the camera does a fair job but doing it yourself add to corect colors.
3. dont get those extra large camera cards, but several medium size fast cards. it you put 200 pictures on one card and it gets lost or corupted you loss all. the high speed cards allow you extra pictures per time period. it may only add 1 or 2 pictures of that moving boat but that maybe the one you wanted and the camera is still right to the slow card with a full buffer.
4. printing. most printers are only 300x300 pixels [dots] to get the higher numbers they count the number of colors they can put into that dot. if you have a 12meg camera and dump that picture to the printer. the printer has to do the down conversion to the 300x300. you are better served by let the picture software [ photoshop, photo elements.... good SW] do that conversion then sent a 300x300 picture to the printer. when you convert in the SW you need to resize the image to 300 doi [300x300]. i have seen picture converted by a good photo printer and the SW pictures, the sw is always better.
5. if you have a 200 mm lens on the camera you need to shoot at or faster than 1/200 of a sec shutter speed. you may need to manually open the lens to get that shutter speed. if you dont the picture will be fuzzy from motion. the stablized lens only help on the static objects, the moving ones will be fuzzy.
6 get a high powered flash and bounse it off the ceiling indoors. that way the red eye disappears and the photo will be filled with lite, and not just the main object.
thanks for bearing thru this but it thought it may help some of you.