1998 MErCruiser Alpha One Using Oil

[BonesNTX]

I'm using about the whole reservoir (appox 2 cups) in about 6 hours running.

I just got this boat from the original owner and I don't know squat about MerCruisers.

Anyone have ideas what will cause this?

Thanks

[lightspeed]

Probably The Prop Shaft Seal Or Yoke Seal ,Drives Got to Come Off And Be Pressure Checked Top Find Out The Problem For Sure

[CharlieB53]

Before you pull the drive drain the oil, save yourself a mess when you do split the gearboxes top from bottom.

As the oil is draining take notice whether any contamination with water, the color is a dead give-a-way, it takes on the color of creamed coffee.

Once drained go ahead and pull the outdrive, (remember to shift it into Forward gear).

Check inside the bellows for oil leakage past the input shaft seal, no leak, AND no water in the oil you drained, then the lower seal of the upper gearcase is leaking into the exhaust and spread out into the water as you are/were running.

Look up and order the 2 lower seals and the o-ring for the input shaft bearing carrier.
Wouldn't hurt to also replace the o-ring on the top cap.

[flabum1017]

That is a lot of oil to be losing. I would also check the hose between the transom housing and the helmet.

Are you getting oil in the bilge? If so, it could be the hose going from the resevoir to the transom housing.

[BonesNTX]

Thanks everyone

I just bought this Sea Ray from a very good/old friend that said in writing it is perfect. It looks really good with not a lot of lake hours on it.

I'm hoping it has something to do with that reservoir supply hose as the other suggestions sounds pricey.

He told me he recently had the drive serviced so I guess I'll find out what that means!

Aside from one 1997 VOLVO/Chris Craft this is the only sterndrive I've had. All others have been outboards so I know I have some learning to do.

Thanks again

[Steve Pope]

The drive units quite often vents the air that is above the vent screw on the upper drive housing into the oil reservoir and the reservoir oil takes its place.This is usual after a service , I always remove the upper bearing cap on the drive unit and fill it to the top, then top off the reservoir to the top mark.Steve

[BonesNTX]

The drive units quite often vents the air that is above the vent screw on the upper drive housing into the oil reservoir and the reservoir oil takes its place.This is usual after a service , I always remove the upper bearing cap on the drive unit and fill it to the top, then top off the reservoir to the top mark.Steve

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh148/BonesNTX/BoatLUOilRes.jpg


Thanks.....This is about what the Mechanic down the street said.
He said the first thing to do is drain all the oil and then re-fill (If oil looks clean of course).

I have very little use of this boat since I got it last year due to this concern of integrity of the lower unit. The Original Owner assured me it is tip-top and was regularly serviced!


Saturday, I took the Reservoir off it's mounting bracket to take pic to send Original Ownere for clarification of wht he is telling me. He says it is the connection where the supply hose comes out of the tank. There was some mis-hap in that area.

1)There is very little oil anywhere in the bilge.
2)Engine is clean except there is a little residue on top of that filter just below the Oil Reservoir (Fuel Filter?)
3)I don't see any oil in the River water so it seams the seals are OK?

MAYBE someone could recomend a good manual for me to get on the Drive?

Thanks

[Greg Moss]

First thing to do is pull the drive off complete. do not separate it. If you have that much oil being lost and if it was the input yoke you would have oil in the bilge leaking into the boat from the weep hole in the gimble bearing area. with the drive off pressure test it. Spray something that will bubble when you spray the area that is leaking. You can get to every seal except the verticle shafts. If I have a hard time finding the leak I have a small kids plastic pool that I lay the drive in and look for bubbles. Seals fail, the man that sold you the boat probably didn't know the were bad. I wouldn't try to just change one though, if a customer brings one in a totally disassemble it and replace all seals and o-rings then pressure test it to verify the job.You have water in there that needs to be taken care of. Also while you are in there a new water pump is in order. The lube in that drive will be blue not the old honey colored stuff. The high performance lube is pretty good about still providing lubrication when mixed with water.

[CharlieB53]

6 cups is a LOT of oil to be loosing.

See my previous post last fall, I stick with that answer.

Greg is right on, pressure testing the drive will show that you have a leak,when you can't see it anywhere else the lower seal of the upper housing leaks into the exhaust stream, carrying the oil out and throughly mixing it with the river/lake that you won't notice it.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Gen II's have a nasty habit of popping the shift shaft seal and or the seals out of the retainer under the water pump. Anyhoo you don't even need to pull the drive to pressure check it. Pinch the line to the resivoir with a pair of needle nose vice grips and pump it up to 12-15 lbs.

[delawarerick]

When its pressured up shouldnt you turn the drive shaft? Rick

[Capt.Insane-o]

Nah.. if it's going to leak it's going to leak.

[BonesNTX]

OK, I thank every one of you that offered any advice. I know Mercurisers don't appear to be THE FOCUS of this group but I knew there was lot's of good advice/experience here.

Original owner is taking it into shop he has been using for years and they have quote about $500 without even seeing it yet. The owner said it is absolutely the Shift Shaft Seal needing replacement. Common after about 10 years service and that is where we are.

So estimates from all the way to $5,8xx to replace with Mercury re-man outdrive to $500 and I should have it back by March 28th.

Said ok to use this weekend if we choose to keep adding oil!

Dang this kind of crap gets me all worried...Especially when I am almost considering heading offshore.

[Capt.Insane-o]

500 bucks to fix the shift shaft seal? Wow. It takes maybe 45 minutes.

[Bruster]

Gen II's have a nasty habit of popping the shift shaft seal and or the seals out of the retainer under the water pump. Anyhoo you don't even need to pull the drive to pressure check it. Pinch the line to the resivoir with a pair of needle nose vice grips and pump it up to 12-15 lbs.

That's some good advice buddy. :D

[BonesNTX]

500 bucks to fix the shift shaft seal? Wow. It takes maybe 45 minutes.

WHAT??....You are Kidding Right?

[Specialized P4-12]

no hes not....... hope u didnt sign the dotted line...

[BonesNTX]

no hes not....... hope u didnt sign the dotted line...

The boat is to be at the Dealer/Repair shop tomorrow.

So there are several parts in this sevice kit...Could that = $500 with the labor?

For reference, How much would you guys charge?

What is your profession if it would be you to do this work?

Ideas of how I can help my friend not get screwed over on this?

Man...And I thought we had problems when we didn't know what was wrong! (If this is what is wrong)

Thanks

[CharlieB53]

I run a small Marine Service & Repair shop

without looking at the flat-rate manual for an alpha lower I'd estimate

Upper gearcase reseal 3/4 hour
Lower gearcase reseal 1 1/2 hour


Upper Seal Kit 27.83
Lower Seal kit 65.00
Impeller & Gasket 25.00
Synth Oil 16.00

133.83 plus tax on parts and labor, say 2 1/2 hours

I could be pushing maybe 400

[BonesNTX]

So ball park estimate from high faluting Marina in High Faluting area with boat 150 miles away is not too bad?

Thanks

[CharlieB53]

Majority of my parts are Sierra and my labor is @ 3/4 dealers rate.

As long as they ARE resealing BOTH gearcases AND replacing the water pump impeller (since it is part of the job), THEN they are pretty much in line with standard "dealer" pricing.

A reputable independant shop should be able to save you about 100 dollars.

I wouldn't necessarily send it to just anyone. I just gave an initial est on a lower at 1 thou, worst case, won't know til it's apart, clean, and inspected. It has side play in the prop shaft.

We can only make an educated guess, until we look inside.

[CharlieB53]

My bad

Check my math, 75 an hour

320 + tax

A REPUTABLE independant could save you maybe 175 on an Alpha reseal.

Dealership parts can get expensive

But then again, some people want only OEM parts

It is YOUR boat, your decision.

Let's just say, If I didn't believe in if the aftermarket parts that I use then I couldn't stand behind my work and I wouldn't stay in business. My customers trust my judgement, I will NOT risk their lives on a low quality part. But then again, some parts I will only get OEM instead of aftermarket, because it is a quality part.

[BonesNTX]

I have used and often prefer Aftermarket Parts for many years.

THE WORD from the Marina/Mercruiser Dealer is there is no leak in the outdrive. It is leaking at the Reservoir tank and only obvious at over 2K RPM.

Water Pump was replaced last year and now about 10 hrs on it so not replacing.

The whole deal is bargain priced at $1,000.

1) Dis-Assembled and Inspected Drive

2) Full Service Drive (to me that means new lube???!!!!????)

3) Replaced Reservoir tank and Sending Unit

4) Pressure tested Reservoir tank / Hose to Drive

5) Replaced "BOOTS" (spongey)

AS of Saturday that was what they were to be doing and haven't heard anything else yet. Should be ready to leave shop today and my Friend hopes to have it back to me late this week.

THANKS ALL