WHH Team Pro - the build

[Stoker1]

Ended up ordering the hull/hatch combo and drivers only. Figured there was enough stuff laying around to complete a custom build without buying much extra. Well, the hull has been here for just about three months & I finally drilled my first holes in this weekend. There have been a few hours & beers killed staring, measuring, brain storming trying to figure it all out.

A clutch is a must in this boat. No if, ands or but's about it. A clutch will be used is part of my wants from it. Having ran the SuperG' to death with one, its a wonderful accessory for a play boat and allows you to enjoy boating in a different fashion. Ended up installing a CY clutch that fits perfectly. Issue came in building the mounts. See pics.

Then deciding on drives... Enforcer SPDII, Seabold Drive, or even a Zip Drive from American RC. Speaking of drives, another 'must' was it has to be square drive. Simple, yet effective.

Plenty of Speedmaster rudders laying around & various length arms, Trim tabs, etc.

A big problem is that I'm in Europe so noise must be taken in to consideration. I've got plenty of pipes just that none really work the way I want. You'll see a couple of custom Jeroen Tune setups but they don't fit properly in this hull. Next came the Cooper Quiet system. Nice but still a tad loud. I've ran the Coopers for years and they're accepted here, but the levels are still a bit high.

Ended up purchasing a new Hanson Super quiet system instead. This booger is long and will have to be extended out the stern quite a bit.

Also note that the engine placement isn't the easiest. I moved the engine as far forward as possible without having to cut the hatch. This one thing has pissed me to no end as I want to keep as much of the pipe inside as possible.
Lowering it made clutch fitting difficult.

On with the pictures now.

[Stoker1]

Few more pics

Just giving an all around view of things.

For now, its got a Speedmaster front mount and a home-made mount for the rear. I plan on cleaning up the rear mount with the mill and making it look more factory & one off than just a couple of peices of angle.

[Stoker1]

A better shot of the simple rear mounts. They'll get cleaned up with the mill and make them look more factory & one-off.

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[Stoker1]

Here were some of the pipe options:

I'm in Germany and these guys do not like loud *_ _ *. Well, if they do like it, they can't get away with it much because folks really complain. LOL. AnyWhooo, the pipes are lined up to show some options for this rig. A couple of Jeroen Tune pipes with welded headers made especially for some popular German hulls & my engines. Don't know how the tuning would be effected with this particular boat and the style isn't exactly what I want, so it got a new Hanson Super System. Also in there is another old style Hanson quiet pipe & a shorty Cooper quiet system as well.

Messing with the CG as best as possible, I had to run the engine as far forward for the size tank and to help hide the hideous pipe. You get the idea.

[Stoker1]

Just now got the shaft long installed.

Went with 5/16 routed inside of 11/32. The larger size is a stub peice thats glued in this way the stuffing tube can be removed later if need be. 30 minute epoxy with a few small layers of glass cloth over. A little over kill on the resin but its not hurting anything.

[Riverman]

What kind of engine is that? Man I gotta get working on mine!

[Stoker1]

:D check out the new Mini -V. Thirteen inches long and a total blast in a large pool. :D

I'll post more on the weekend when time allows to work a bit more.

[Stoker1]

What kind of engine is that? Man I gotta get working on mine!

Its a mild mod Zenoah 26cc PUM. Pretty much the standard for these boats.

Another engine thats becoming popular is the SIKK or CY 26 engine. Almost a total copy of this one but with a two bolt jug. The CY has a little more power and is comparable to a modded Zen right out of the box.

I've got a few of these laying around so its basically a spare part build. Just a few goodies needed here & there.

You'll like it when she's done.:)

[1BadAction]

Someone should run a stacker over there and let them know what LOUD really is. :D :D

[Stoker1]

No Jim.....:D

A few months ago the wife & I went to a Frankfurt Galaxy football game & they had a full blown alky dragster come rolling out on the track. I damn near got WOOD & goose bumps for a full hour. Talk about Viagra~!

Btw, the fumes from that mother farker stiffled the whole stadium. :D

[1BadAction]

:D I would so get deported, but not before I built a turbocharged M3 :eek: hehehe.

wait till u see what I have in the works. two motors into one drive ;) :eek:

[moparbarn]

stoker, get up with james clegg at www.ovalexpressracing.com (http://www.ovalexpressracing.com). he's all ob tunnels, but should have good info on sources for stuff you may need. located in germany. great guy, very willing to help. nice looking project. yeah, noise is a BIG issue over in europe. over here, the impba guys are raising hell about a 92 db limit-in europe, they are limited to 80 db at races. still fast as hell, just quieter:cool: . keep us posted on your progress.

[Stoker1]

Moving on along....

Built a new L' bracket for the Speedmaster rudder. Finally got to put the mill to good use.

Added the trim tabs. Debated about two seconds on using these or not. Anyone who has ran a Super G' would probably suggest them as well for high speed running. This style hull is a bit squirrly when the numbers go up.

[Stoker1]

Tabs.

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[Stoker1]

Rudder & pipe work...

Exhaust....
This isn't the most pleasing part of the project but theres not much choice. To keep this ugly booger inside as much as possible and the CG, I'm having to cut this hole HUGE.
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Thats it for now. Will post more in a few days.
Peace.:)

[Stoker1]

get up with james clegg at www.ovalexpressracing.com (http://www.ovalexpressracing.com/). he's all ob tunnels, but should have good info on sources for stuff you may need.

Thats what I've got a mill & lathe for. :D If he can give me some classes on how to use these boogers, then we'll talk.:cool: Btw, I know my way around this place better that most auslanders. Almost 7 years here now. Thanks though.:)

[moparbarn]

Thats what I've got a mill & lathe for. :D If he can give me some classes on how to use these boogers, then we'll talk.:cool: Btw, I know my way around this place better that most auslanders. Almost 7 years here now. Thanks though.:)
he does have lathes and mills, does custom work from drawings or just measurements. give him a call, but from the rudder bracket i saw, i don't think lessons are an issue;) .

[Stoker1]

Moving on along. Got some work done the last few days. Its always good to have an extra set of eyes with a buddy assisting. He got to work on the hatch installing the drivers & louvers. I inspected the shaft insert for the Seebold drive and found the brass bushing was shot (its the one in the top right of the first pic. The one facing is from an American RC drive that was being used for temporary). This one had been ran for two tanks and had wollered into the aluminum insert. Tried punching it out with a little head and hammer but no-go. Had to build a new one.

Some pics along the way.

[Stoker1]

Made the bushing from brass. Drilled it out to .25 in. and the cut the outside down to the right size to fit the aluminum insert.

These will work fine and provide a good service life. Next time, I might try to make it out of brass tube with an insert similar to Speedmasters setup. This was fun & simple. Just a little time consuming for a beginner.:) Also, having messed up on a brass insert, looks like it will now make a nice sized punch. :D

.

[Stoker1]

Now to decide on the radio box. Talking to another buddy, he suggested a smaller box & lay the servos down. Not crazy about doing so as this is a play boat and it has to be easy to service. Either way, I dug out some boxes just to see. Looks like I'll still go with the Enforcer lid.

Another note is that I'm most likely going to turn the box around and let if fit between the rails instead of on top of them. Those that've ran this box know what I'm talking about. Now to get this to fit will mean gluing some wood to the bottom and putting blind nuts on the back side. Screw through the box and into the wood. A little silicone around the heads & its all good.

Take a look at the completed engine mount & pipe setup. Decided to move the engine forward two inches and cut a hole in the hatch.http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/images/smilies/redface.gif Really cleans up the exhaust from sticking so far out.

Hope to get the bellcrank for the steering setup tomorrow and seal the boots for the box. Install the wood for the bottom of the box and work on sealing the exhaust exit as well. No rush, but once it starts coming together, it flows

[Stoker1]

Moving on along. Got a lot accomplished this weekend. Hardware is installed after letting some thinned epoxy seal the holes. Gas tank, engine is set now. Installed a carbon fiber tray instead of the plastic one that came with the box. Had to add a small peice to make it work but it turned out alright.

Also had to relocate the coil to the rear. Not as big of a tasking as initially thought. Take some solid half inch aluminum, bore a 4mm hole and cut to size. The lathe makes quick work of this.

Now to build a new drive shaft, tidy up the box & it should be almost done. Oh, need to add some floatation to the hatch, & build a few cleats. Those can wait, but its hard not to live in the shop. Gesh, I'm ready to start on the Sprint Cat thats been sitting for six months.http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Btw, wanting to go with a through hull pickup and tried a one off this weekend, but it didn't turn out right. For the first run, it might just be off the rudderhttp://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/images/smilies/redface.gif

Werd... Jamie