"Tricking " the Merc alarm module

[Reel Life]

OK, I know someone has already figured this out. I want to remove the oil injection but keep the water in fuel alarm, high temp and the initial warning horn check. So, I want to keep the module but remove the oil pump (with the shaft and sensor) and oil tank, and intake check valve. My qeustion is how do I "trick" the module into thinking the pump shaft is still rotating. I know I need to supply +5 VDC to the blue/white lead to the module. Does someone make a resistor or something that can be plugged in between the white and blue/white lead (coming from the module) that will inable the module to be used? Or, if I disconnect the green switch box lead, will this prevent the module from looking for a pump shaft rotation signal?

Thanks for the help, Mark

[pyro]

Sounds like a lot for nothing. The initial beep-beep is only to verify the module is alive. The overheat alarm is not part of the alarm module circuit, it connects directly to the -neg side of the horn, grounding it during an overheat. Empty your fuel filter often, big deal. I haven't even been running one on mine in almost two years.

Get all that extra crap out of there. when your alarm module malfunctionos or goes bad (most seem to), you'll be freaking out as to why your beeper is freaking out.

[Reel Life]

That wasn't much help..... Lets try again...... Anyone got the answer? Thanks Mark

[j_martin]

Here it is, as simple as I can make it.
The alarm circuit is
battery
connected to a horn, usually through the ignition switch.
a wire connected to the horn, that can be grounded to sound the horn.

The overtemp sensor grounds the wire and sounds a continuous horn.

The oil monitor grounds the wire in patterns you can hear (beep, beep)

If you don't like a particular alarm, disconnect it.

hope it helps
John

[pyro]

No, that's not much help either. Only the answer he wants to hear will be good enough for him. S O R R R R Y !!! :rolleyes:

He's all caught up with wanting to keep the EFI water alarm, which works by triggering the oil alarm module.

The module won't function unless it sees key-on power and switchbox pulses. The blu/wht wire is NOT a +supply wire, it normally would connect to the rotation sensor. If +5 appears here, it would be because of an internal regulator in the module. I'm not familiar with the specifics of how the sensor works, it's probably a hall-effect transistor of some sort. Not sure how you could emulate that.

This is seriously a joke. Mark, the only reason you're wanting to keep the stupid modules is for the precious water alarm, right? OK, fine, I'll see if I can help solve the riddle:

The light blue wire (also used for the float sensor, which is simply a normally-open magnetic reed switch with a mag in the float) is pulled to ground by the water sensing module, thus triggering the water alarm. GET RID OF THE DAMNED OIL WARNING MODULE. You simply don't need it. The water module could be used to trigger the alarm. You MIGHT be able to hook this wire up to the alarm horn connection on the cylinder head, but I wouldn't recommend it. The current draw of the alarm horn and the surges of inductive back-EMF may damage the water module, as it was only designed to trigger the other module with low current. I'm not sure if the module and the blue wire is meant to "drive" anything that draws current, but if you connected this wire as the ground return for a small relay (the other coil connection would go to "purple" key-on power), the relay can be used to switch the ground return that sounds the buzzer. The buzzer would sound solid BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP like overheat. Add some kind of flasher between relay and horn if you want a beep-beep-beep. Does this make sense, or have I wasted my time yet again?

[TheRickster]

Another option...

Take all the oil injection off except the pump. Leave the pump in place, lock the oil pump control linkage in the low throttle setting(lowest volume) and loop the inlet and outlet hoses with a loop of hose filled with low viscocity oil. This would allow the hall effect sensor to still read rotational and keep all the sensors hooked up the warning module...

Rick

[j_martin]

It might work if you disconnect both the ignition wire and the pump pulse wire. Maybe also disconnect the linkage to the pump. It thinks it's on, runs the self test, and waits for engine start. I think it'll receive a low oil switch at that time. (EFI heat switch, same wire.)

Worth a try, I guess.

There's got to be an application for duct tape here somewhere.

John

[150aintenuff]

the WATER IN FUEL ALARM IS A JOKE!!! JUST REMOVE THE OIL MODUAL... and REPLACE YOUR WATER SEPERATOR ANNUALLY....

[pyro]

Like I said in my first reply, which was ridiculed by Mark, you don't need no stinking separator anyway.

John, the alarm module won't function unless it has BOTH key-on power AND switchbox pulses to indicate that the motor is running.

A relay can serve the same purpose that the oil module does, so long as you're using it just to trigger the beeper for water alarm.

Some experienced boaters claim (and others have backed it up with research) that the separator isn't always effective anyway.

I can't believe I'm doing this again, arguing logic in the face of opposition. Someone asks a question, gets a logical answer, then rejects it. Why do I post "helpful" replies here for people who don't want my help? Tomorrow morning, if there's anymore of the "That wasn't much help" bull$h!t here, I'll be seriously scaling back my "helpful" efforts around here from now on. I should really have better things to do than worry about someone else's bastard motor, who I have never even met.

My apologies for wasting bandwidth and brain cells. I'll do better next time...

[The Big Al]

First!
Water sensing system you have?
This is what you do if you have the water sensing module in front of the engine. Just below the ECU unit.
Small black box with a red led light. (that also lights up when water is detected)

Remove all the oil injection system stuff! (all of it)

Then you will have 4 wires coming out of the Water Sensing Module.

Purple- Connect it to 12 volt power supply (switched)
Light Blue- Connect this to the TAN BLUE wire that the water temp sensors connect. You will find a connection were all these sensors connect just above the ecu modules. (terminal block)
Tan- goes to separator filter
Black- ground


Done, the only difference is when water is present in the filter the alarm will sound just like a over temp alarm, constant alarm. (no more pulse beep)
Also when alarm goes off the red LED light will be "ON" if it's the water seperator has water in it.

[The Big Al]

The only purpose for taping the system into the oil warning system is to use that module to make the intermediate beep!

[pyro]

...The water module could be used to trigger the alarm. You MIGHT be able to hook this wire up to the alarm horn connection on the cylinder head, but I wouldn't recommend it. The current draw of the alarm horn and the surges of inductive back-EMF may damage the water module, as it was only designed to trigger the other module with low current. I'm not sure if the module and the blue wire is meant to "drive" anything that draws current, but if you connected this wire as the ground return for a small relay (the other coil connection would go to "purple" key-on power), the relay can be used to switch the ground return that sounds the buzzer. The buzzer would sound solid BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP like overheat. Add some kind of flasher between relay and horn if you want a beep-beep-beep...

Do I hear an echo?
Gosh, I really DID waste my time replying.

[Techno]

Reel Life is from Virginia which other suthiners have said make water in your fuel on a weekly basis. He asked a real question not an opinion.
I don't think he was trying to be an :eek: in his remark about his question not being answered. It wasn't.
Its fine to state an opinion on something but go ahead and say how you solve the question. Its not that hard since it generally is done in the end.

And I don't mean my post to be anything mean. Its just an observation that his question wasn't answered in any way or shape. I've gotten bashed by this same effect. A question is asked, the person reads what they think is the question then gets pissed when the person doesn't choose to follow the info. If someone doesn't like my answers I'm not insulted. Its their choice and an open forum.
Everyone has the right to be wrong.:D

[The Big Al]

Do I hear an echo?
Gosh, I really DID waste my time replying.

Well yes and no!

He needed a Southern instruction instead of a Yankee instruction!:)

[pyro]

ah, 10-4.

[Reel Life]

Well, now I almost forgot what my question was?%$#..... Pyro, not only do I understand where you are coming from, but I agree. I was asking for a friend that wanted to maintain the sensor (which rarely works) with the audilbe alarm. The visual will still work without the module. I liked the schematic....well done........ And to Big Al et all...thanks for all the other ideas, and comments. I found them both amusing and informative.
Thanks Again,
Mark

[pyro]

Thanks for the thanks, glad to help.

[Jho928]

I have a similiar issue .
Can you just run a wire from the fuel filter to the Tan(with Blue) from temp sensors on terminal block? but I tried going thru the water sensing module and no luck.When the Tan(B) wire sees ground either thru the temp sensor or fuel filter it will trigger alarm ?

[rcb]

Read #5 on the post from Pryo. He recommends not connecting the water temp and the fuel filter senor leads together and gives a reason and a great little schematic if you want water in fuel filter alarm. If Pryo reads this reply, I thank your for your time and wisdom and advice on the subject and I agree a 100% with your fix.

.

I have a similiar issue .
Can you just run a wire from the fuel filter to the Tan(with Blue) from temp sensors on terminal block? but I tried going thru the water sensing module and no luck.When the Tan(B) wire sees ground either thru the temp sensor or fuel filter it will trigger alarm ?

[j_martin]

Four years too late!

[rcb]

Four years too late!

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

[j_martin]

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

Read the dates on the posts. Original problem 2007, stray on 4/2010.

[rcb]

Read the dates on the posts. Original problem 2007, stray on 4/2010.

I understand the dates, I used the search tool to find an answer instead of asking the same question when I know I wasn't the only person to wonder. I was simply a few years late in thanking those that answered my question. I try to exhaust all efforts using the search tool before asking a question and it appears the person prior to my post does the same. This one of the many good things about this site and the knowledgable people that post solutions and advice. Still a little :confused: unless you too are expressing an older post that is still helpful at this date in time.
JMO
Rodney

[Capt.Insane-o]

What I do is take the sensor out of the filter, put in a little brass ball valve with a 1/8 npt end to screw in the filter and a nipple on the other end to connect a small hose to to check for water or crap oocasionally. or just unscrew the filter and pour it into a mason jar now and again.

[rcb]

Good ideas!!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::cheers:


What I do is take the sensor out of the filter, put in a little brass ball valve with a 1/8 npt end to screw in the filter and a nipple on the other end to connect a small hose to to check for water or crap oocasionally. or just unscrew the filter and pour it into a mason jar now and again.