stuck flywheel...

[JSB5776]

OK... So I took your advice and got a fly wheel puller.... only problem is that I cant get the fly wheel off... I was able to move it just under a centimeter... and the puller bottmed out... The screw that you turned doesnt seem to be long enough??? If any one has the factory mercury puller.... maybe you can help me... In the "protector cap" that sits on the crank... Theres a washer, a roller bearing, and another washer... From the pics in the book, I assume that this slips on the crank, and then you screw the puller in, and turn the pulling screw??? After it bottomed out, I put the fly wheel nut on the crank half way, to give the puller a little more usable range... But It wouldnt budge??? Then I looked at it and it seems that fly wheel is coming off slightly crooked... So it may be jammed... I tried screwing the nut all the away back down to start over, but it just doesnt wanna move... up or down??? Has any one had this happen??? Anyone have an idea how to fix this???


Thanx
Jeff

[JSB5776]

Would it be bad to hit the fly wheel with a rubber mallet to try to straighten it back out???

[Markus]

Since flywheels should not come off, they are pretty securely fastened on the crank.

On my Yamaha, I use a home-made flywheel puller that is really not stiff enough, but combined with some tapping (your rubber mallet would come in handy) and careful use of a heat gun, the flywheel comes off after a while.

[crazy horse]

The flywheel sets on a tapered spline if it move a little it would be off. Make sure you are use the right puller and are using it correctly. When ever I have one that is stuck I've use a impact wrench but you have to make sure that you use the crankshaft protector cup or it can damage the crank. Don't hit the flywheel with anything! If you are using a puller that grabs the ring gear you have most likly damaged your flywheel. You have to use the correct puller or it will never come off. The puller MUST screw into the center of the hub other types of puller just bend the flexplate. The type you have to use is pictured below.

[Raceman]

A puller like Crazy's is the only one I've ever used until I bought a Jay Smith unit. I've had some stuck enough that I had to pull on the bolt with a pull handle and then whack the bolt with a ball peen hammer. I don't see how the bolt bottoming out is possible unless the bolt's been changed by somebody.

[JSB5776]

Yeah thats the puller I'm using, straight from a Mercury only shop... The bolt is the exact finish as the puller... The protector cap looks a little different then the one in the picture... But the same as the one on the Mercury web site... When I turn the screw all the way in... It only gives about 1cm of pull travel... It seems if the bolt were longer, It would pull more... I tried cranking the nut back in to start over... but now the fly wheel seems stuck... If the wheel is slightly crooked.... Is there any way to straighten it out again???

Thanx for your help guys..

[Jay Smith]

JSB5776,
If you bought the one like pictured above with the cone adapter that hits the crank you bought the wrong one. Ours will pull the most stubborn flywheel off with one try ! When the do it yourselfer has a big investment in an outboard motor and the possibility of damaging thousands of dollars in ruined parts sometimes trying to save money just ain't the way to go! ( I have seen the type pictured split crankshafts BIG TIME )

Sorry you are having trouble ....

Jay @ JSRE

[crazy horse]

Jay ,I have never had a problem with the one I have.

[Greg Moss]

If you have the thick 40 amp flywheel you will need the gold colored bolt. It is longer than the one that comes with the puller.Take the nut all the way off the crank and make sure you use the crank protector cap or you can damage the crank.

[Greg Moss]

Make sure you use it or you can damamge the end of the crank. Jay's works good but if you use the one Mercury sell correctly you will not have any problems. Just use the cap.

[JSB5776]

I dont get it... why would mercury produce a tool that damages their own engines??? I beileve what your saying Jay... I just dont understand it... I borrowed this one from my local performance shop... I'm gonna bring it back today and see if they can help at all... If not I'll send ya an email and try yours... How mauch was yours again??? $90 + shipping???

[JSB5776]

Greg I'm pretty sure I do have the 40 amp stator... I dont have the manual infront of me, but it sounds familiar... So I need a gold bolt ehh??? Like I said... The protector cap looks a little different then the one in the above pic... the one I have is a black "cup" that is much larger then the gold one crazy horse shows... The cup fits completely inside the puller, with very tight tolerances... in side the cup is a washer, then a roller bearing, and then another washer... the crank seems to slip into the hole in the washers and rests on the top of the cup... Im not sure what purpose the rooler bearing provides because there is no surface that it riides on???

[Greg Moss]

If you have the thick cast flywheel Jay's will not work the bolt is not long enough. If you have the cast flywheel you need to get the gold bolt. Make damn sure you use the protector on the crank. I have seen them stick and have had to tap on the puller bolt with a small hammer to shock it loose. Don't get a 16lbs sledge hammer just a small ball peen . Tighten the bolt as tight as you can get it tap on the puller bolt and it sould pop loose.

[Greg Moss]

the thiing that breaks cranks is operator error. Somebody using the tool wrong like not using the protector. I have pulled thousands of flywheels and NEVER broke a crank. I have always used the protector on the crank. Jay's is nice and should protect the crank good but I don't think if you have to tap on the puller bolt it will do that bearing anygood. I know every body is going to say don't tap on the puller bolt but you sometimes have to to shock it loose.

[captcarb]

I am not sure what puller you have, but it sounds like you have the "cup" upside down. If the flywheel moved 1 cm, it is off. Will the flywheel turn?

Jim

[Greg Moss]

There is a washer under the flywheel nut you have to remove it to get that kind if puller to work. Mercury liked Jay's puller so much they copied it and I think that is the one you have.

[Jay Smith]

If you have a 40 amp system we frnish a 1 1/2" piece of bronze stock and ours will work fine ! Give me a call 1 281 576 5088

jay @ JSRE

[Jeff_G]

What I did is this. My crank protector wore out, or got lost :)
I use the Mercury puller I made a new protector from the threaded end of an old crankshaft. It fits perfectly and is longer than the old one. I have pulled hundreds of flywheels with it and never a problem. As Greg said sometimes a little tap on the puller bold helps. I have never damaged a crank nor ever had one that didn't come off.

[JSB5776]

Ok... without the book infront of me... I cant tell if I have the 40 amp stator... From what it sounds like... I do... This is what mercury says i have... but their not making any designation of 40amp (Part # 271-859238T 8)

http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/PartsExpress/ProductSelection/ServiceParts/PartSelectionframeSet.asp

so how much torque is too much when pulling a fly wheel??? I know the Nut gets torqued to 120 ftlbs... so anything under that should be fine correct???

Yeah Greg... I did eventually pull the washer... Didnt at first.. But then I did and it still wont budge...

Capt carb... I'm using the protector in the oreintation of an upside down glass...

[JSB5776]

Yes the fly wheel and crank still turn smoothy... The fly wheel has moved up just under 1 centimeter... and its definitely not off yet???

[captcarb]

it has moved .39 inch, and is not off? 1cm = .39 inch.

Did you try to pull it prior to using the merc puller? And if so how?

Jim

[Greg Moss]

If it moves 1 cm you did something wrong. If it moves up that much you should be able to pick it right up. When you try to pick up on it does the end of the crank try to come with it? You really need to invest in a service manual and not try to do everything from pictures at parts express. The service manual gives you all the instructions. Got a digital camera? maybe you came post a pic or 2 of what you are tring to do.

[captcarb]

I have the Jay Smith puller, and that would be upside down for mine. Go here and take a look at Jay's and see if that makes sense to you. You have to scroll down to see it.

http://www.jaysmithracing.com/shopwork.htm

The bearing fits between the two washers and then a spacer for the bolt to push against. (like a washer with no hole)

Jim

[JSB5776]

Turns out I didnt have all the pieces... the protector is a two part piece... a cup with the washers and roller bearings and then another 1 cm disk that sits on them... I have the disk in now... and I will try when I get home from work tonight... The disk will give me 1 cm more of travle on the screw... that should be enough...

Thanks for all your help guys... Ill let ya know how it goes...

[JSB5776]

yup... thats the exact puller I have... and is what mercury is currently selling... I didnt have the little alluminum? disk in... on top of the washers and roller bearings... So the crank went right between them... I dont think I damaged it because the its a flat surface just like the little disk is... So now... does the screw turn on the disk... or does the crank turn on the dis??? or doesnt it really matter??? I'm going to use it in the orientation that JSRE puller is shown in the pic...

Thanx

[captcarb]

The screw turns on the disc, just like it shows in the picture on Jay's site.

Put a washer in, then the bearing, then another washer, then the disc. The protector goes inside the puller with the disc against the bolt.

Back the bolt way off and screw the puller into the flywheel as far as you can. You will have considerably more than an additional 1cm of travel because if I understand you correctly the crankshaft was going through the washers?

I am concerned that the flywheel is up 1 cm and cocked though. And you say it will not move up or down? Could you have bent it before trying the puller?

What model motor are you working on??

Jim

[DaveR]

Am I living dangerously and just lucky? I made a puller I've used MANY times with no problem. It's like an upside down glass - externally threaded around the bottom to match the flywheel, thread hole down the middle. I thread a large set screw through the "bottom of the glass" and put a 1/2" thick slug of brass on top of the crank. Screw the set screw down while holding the "Glass" from rotating, and they pop right off. I also have a forged ring with the same male thread as the set screw, so I can use it as a lift ring too.

I was looking for JSRE's as a Christmas present, but maybe I shouldn't wait?

[JSB5776]

The fly wheel has raised under 1 cm... probably about 6mmm if I really think about it... I'm not even sure if its cocked.. I didnt measure... I ran my fingers around it, and maybe it feels slightly cocked... I could just be making it up in my head... I didnt try to pull it at all until I had the puller.... but when the bolt "ran out" I but a small socket in there as a shim to try to give me a little exrta... I put the shim in between the protector and the screw, not right on the crank... but it did shift a litlle and maybe thats what caused a slight angle on the fly wheel... So I'll try the new set up... and we'll see how it goes... If it is a little crooked... I'm going to try to tap it slightly to straighten it out... I Dont know of any other options...

[captcarb]

I would not hit it with a hammer. Put something next to it and turn it to see if it wobbles. It may be straight and on the verge of comming off. 6mm is nearly 1/4 inch and it should be off.

What model motor is this and why are you taking the flywheel off?

Jim

[JSB5776]

Its a 1995 2.0L 150 hp mercury... I have to pull the fly wheel cause I have a cracked piston... I pulled the heads... see a missing chunk outa one of the pistons... and my local shop told me to pull the powerhead, and see what other damage could be done... Bent crank, rods, and such... I'm a beginner, but fairly mechanical... So far things have been going well... this was my only snag... The engine seems in relatively great shape... the fly wheel and pistons all turn very smoothly... theres no jamming or grinding... No scoring of the cylinder walls... just a small chunk out one piston... So everything looks good for a fairly simple rebuild... I hope...

[captcarb]

You can get the rods and pistons out without pulling the flywheel. And that will allow you to look at the bores and rod journals. A good place to start would be to pull the one piston and rod. Does the inside of the head look ok on that cylinder?

You do need to see whats up with the flywheel now though.

Jim

[JSB5776]

How do you go about pulling a piston without pulling the crank??? I musta missed that part in the book... The heads all look great... all the other pistons look good... typical black soot coating... and all the bores look good... except for one where there is a little transfer of alluminum... but no gouges or scratches... It was oringinally a work engine... and has been run hard all its life... Thats another reason why I wanna get in there to replace all the rings...

Thanks for all your help...
I can definitely use it...
Jeff

[Greg Moss]

you can pull the intake and looosen the rod bolts up thru the reed slots. It is a pain in the ass unless the rods have caged bearings. loose needles makes it reall hard to put back together that way. It's not to bad doing it on a 14 pedal motor but on your 10 it's alittle tight

[Jay Smith]

I don't suggest pulling pistons out without splitting the case halves as the Mercurys have a cracked cap rod and they are hard enought to line up when doing this procedure correctly and the rod halfs are exposed and right in your face unlike in a cave ( the front half installed ). I have done it at the races during tec but you are rolling the dice with your motor and cranckshaft and it simply aint worth it . Do it correctly and have a successfull repair job not a disaster!

Jay @ JSRE

[Greg Moss]

I wouldn't do without splitting the cases i just have seen it done and was answering the question how to do it. If you don't really think you can repair this motor I would not be affraid to ask someone to do it for you. I don't know in your area but if you ask around you can find someone to do it for you. you had better be sure you know what you are doing before you tear up something that cost alot of money.

[JSB5776]

Sweet.. I got the fly wheel off!!! Capt carb you were right... With the little disk where it was supposed to be I litereally turned it a quarter turn... and POW it came off... It was loud... Thought I broke something... but the cranks good.. fly wheels good... Everybodys happy... Thanks again guys for all your help... I'm sure Im going to need you again... Jay that is a great puller you have... I'm not sure who designed that "new style" protector cap with the bearings first... But mercury is selling the EXACT item you have on your web page... If thats your design... its really is a good one...

So any one have any other thoughts that I should look out for as I get into this thing??? Like I said... I need to defintly replace one piston, all the rings, and possibly another due to the transferance of alluminum... Hopefully the crank is in good shape and not bent from the ingestion of a chunk of piston...

[captcarb]

Say what motor you are working on, and what you are trying to accomplish.

Jim