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ctered
06-26-2007, 04:47 PM
My neighbor is having a problem with the finish on a nosecone that was installed on a used motor he purchased. The filler on both sides keeps coming off. He has replaced it 3 times and it seems as if water pressure from the inside keeps blowing it off. What filler is used and is this a common problem? He has tried different stuff and all of them keep coming off. Is there something that was not done properly when it was first installed. Any suggestions or ideas would be great. Is it possible to remove a nosecone and go back to original?

Thanks

Mark

Hottrucks
06-26-2007, 07:14 PM
the filler is an Epoxy and I think you can order it from BOBS MAchine

drasticplastic
06-27-2007, 12:28 AM
Use PC-7 for the filler, it is an epoxy that you can get at most good hardwares. After redoing the sides of the case, take off the water pump and jig the case so it is level and fill the original water passage up with fiberglass resin to just below the new inlet from the low water pick-up.

150aintenuff
06-27-2007, 12:31 AM
My neighbor is having a problem with the finish on a nosecone that was installed on a used motor he purchased. The filler on both sides keeps coming off. He has replaced it 3 times and it seems as if water pressure from the inside keeps blowing it off. What filler is used and is this a common problem? He has tried different stuff and all of them keep coming off. Is there something that was not done properly when it was first installed. Any suggestions or ideas would be great. Is it possible to remove a nosecone and go back to original?

Thanks

Mark
yes it was improperly done.... it should be atleast tack welded at a minimum... Fully welded is better....... the EPoxy flexes and cracks out to much IMO.... ever take lake trash and sticks accidently with glued on cones..... you end up with no cone.... welded you keep right on going...

tunnelmike
06-27-2007, 07:25 AM
Bobs has a templet to ensure the shape of the filler. If you make a straight line from the cone to the housing it WILL blow out. I have seen this on two differant repaired gearcases. The shape of the filler is important. Mike

fastnfish
06-27-2007, 08:28 AM
i would completly start over. take all the epoxy/filler out.he needs to be sure the surface is preped properly. i would at least tack it then use a high quality epoxy i used 3m brand panel bonding 2 part epoxy about 40 bucks. this stuff has tremendous strength. its sheer strength is as strong as weld. its automotive grade product. im sure there is other epoxy that will work but i have experience with this stuff. sounds as if water is getn behind the filler. thats why i would start over. make sure its completly sealed cone to case with epoxy. it takes a long time for moisture to dry out maybe that is why the repairs failed. unless there is a casting "pin hole" in the cone where water might be seeping. i had one that did. i sent that one back. just my opinion wanted to try and help

ctered
06-27-2007, 12:24 PM
He is contemplating taking the cone off. When he repaired it the first time he did not notice any welds. He hopes he can just remove it and plug the upper hole.

Mark

baja200merk
06-27-2007, 12:42 PM
Bobs has a templet to ensure the shape of the filler. If you make a straight line from the cone to the housing it WILL blow out. I have seen this on two differant repaired gearcases. The shape of the filler is important. Mike

any way to get the template for an omc case? mine is all beat up! :rolleyes:

kevin

tunnelmike
06-27-2007, 01:06 PM
Call bobs if it's one of theirs and they can fax it to you. Then you can transfer it to cardboard. Thats what I did. I havent seen mine in years. mike

baja200merk
06-27-2007, 01:17 PM
okay thanks!

Hottrucks
06-27-2007, 06:34 PM
if you wan to see what happenswhen you dont weld them check this out
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132161&highlight=weld+lwp

Baja pm me your reg. email address and I'll Photo copy mine and email it to you full size

Hydrophobic guy
06-27-2007, 08:08 PM
Jeff what was that stuff they used to hold, errrrrr ummmm temporarily stick it to the lower? Doesn't look like any good marine epoxy. I use MAS 2 part epoxy with a med hardner with phenolic thickeners 14,500 psi strength plus tacking it. If it falls off I'm dead. And as for the dillweeds who think of using bondo or any car type of filler stuff. Have a ball when it fly's off and you go swimmin.

fastnfish
06-27-2007, 08:48 PM
i was not suggesting using bondo or whatever the hell you mean. i was mearly offering my opinion,and possible solution. i dont claim to be an expert. was just trying to help. so if that last post was in reguards to my suggestions you know exactly where you can stick it.

Hydrophobic guy
06-27-2007, 10:05 PM
i was not suggesting using bondo or whatever the hell you mean. i was mearly offering my opinion,and possible solution. i dont claim to be an expert. was just trying to help. so if that last post was in reguards to my suggestions you know exactly where you can stick it.

I wasn't regarding your post If I was I would have quoted you like above. There have been others who have either bought motors with bondo or the like holding things together or done it themselves. So before you start acting like an azz find out whats going on first.

fastnfish
06-28-2007, 07:18 AM
well i was the only one that made mention of automotive grade product,i thought you were. not tryn to be an "azz". you responded to some of the posts i put up, tryn to help me, so it caught me off gaurd. my bad, sorry dude.

drasticplastic
06-28-2007, 08:13 AM
I read his question as that the filler on the sides where the old water pick-ups were keeps blowing out. Yes, all nose cones should be welded on !!!. Then use the PC-7 to fair in the cone and get the final shape.

baja200merk
06-28-2007, 09:27 AM
is the template the same for merc/omc cases?

drasticplastic
06-28-2007, 06:21 PM
No the template is different. This is because the cases themselves are shaped a little different.

Hottrucks
06-28-2007, 07:10 PM
Kevin Post the template if you can??