Vector gurus

[daytrader]

Not to bring up a dead horse, but I was wondering. My vector with a 175 when Im running it {it has stock hooked pad} I have to keep it trimmed in , negative trim, to run it at wot. I have read that with a flat pad u have to trim it out more when running. Would a flat pad help me in this situation? Dont want to start a pad war again, just curious what u guys think.

[hydroholic]

What do you mean you have to keep it trimmed in at WOT? At WOT the Vector runs it's best trimmed out. Now not so much that the bow rides to high but definately not trimmed all the way in.Trimmed all the way in you would really be plowin the water hard.Once mine gets on plane you cant go much faster than about 35 to 40 or it noses down and pulls hard to the right unless you add some trim.Now like all Vectors ,there will be a spot in between where it will porpose,but once you add some trim and some more throttle it will eventually ride flat and smooth and run straight.Now comes time to deal with the chine walk,but thats another story.Mine still has the hook in the pad but has the concave filled in,which according to some people is supposed to make it turn a little better,but I have had them with and without them filled in and it doesn't really make that much difference to me.Hook or not you should not have to run it trimmed all the way in at WOT.Sounds like something is not right with your set up.Mine has a 6" jackplate(mine runs better with the plate opposed to bolted sraight to the transom in any configuration of holes) with the center of the prop shaft just above the drain plug hole.I run a Merc Seebold 14-1/2 x 32 labbed cleaver on a modified Bridgeport and the more trim you add the faster you gonna go.(as long as you don't add to much and end up going the wrong way,if you know what I mean).Check your setup and get some more info from some other Vector owners as well and just try untill you find out what works.I have had several through the years and some act differently to certain setups than others.When you get it right,with the right setup and prop that boat and motor should easily get into the 80's.To answer your question,filling in the hook and making the bottom flat ain't gonna help your problem. Taking out the hook in the bottom if done by the right person can sometimes help the ride characteristics of the Vector( maybe decrease some of the porposing) but sometimes may not help at all.The only way it will affect the amount of trim used is decrease the amount needed on the topside to air it out and it will not affect it much if any. If it is done by someone who doesn't know to well what the are doing it can totally mess the boat up all together.Hydro

[rock]

Don't worry about the pad. It's not the issue. You do need trim to make that thing go, and they will go. In the process of finding the sweet spot you will experience a bit of bouncing and some weirdness but once you get there I doubt there is anything more fun to drive. What does the boat do when you apply trim?
Rock

[daytrader]

Hydro, sorry, I should clarify, the motors not trimmed all the way in, for coversations sake, say the "optimal" position isat 0 degree trim when running. one side of 0 is positive and the other side negative trim. It porpises pretty good when I just trim out a little bit and have to trim in to stop the hop. I feel I could gain some speed if I could get closer to 0 trim. (8" setback, 28 chopper, cone tip just below pad.)

[EMDSAPMGR]

I get the normal porpoising with a crossflow V6. From around 25 till nearly 50. Needs a lot of negative trim to keep steady. Over 50, the air keeps the nose up and it is all positive trim to 80. My SRX and Renegade bass both have too much bow lift, so don't run max trim at WOT to keep the nose down, but still run way positive trim angles. Almost sounds like your prop has no cup/rake in the blades. What speeds are you running? Hydroholic's comments are dead on.

[hydroholic]

One of your problems is you are running entirely to much setback.Get rid of the 8" plate and use 6"max.Tried to run 8" on a Vector and a Varmint in the past and it is just entirely to much.Second when it starts to porpose throttle up more and trim up a little at the time.It should stop at about 40 to 45mph and ride flat untill about 70 to 75 mph which is when the chine walk will start..You just have to learn to drive through it.The Vector is temperamental and you have to learn to drive it.When you do,they are fun as hell.Hydro

[LeeRiverVector]

just install a transom wedge with a 1 inch setback and have the nosecone 1 inch below the pad and she will preform great and handle great.......

[hydroholic]

just install a transom wedge with a 1 inch setback and have the nosecone 1 inch below the pad and she will preform great and handle great.......
The transom wedge will work,but not all that different from bolting it straight to the transom.The 1" bellow the pad is a good place to start,but will not get you the best speed and they do differ boat to boat in handling some,but any Of the Varmints and Vectors I have had,they always handled better with the propshaft above the pad at least to the bottom of the drain plug hole(about 1" roughly).Harder to adjust the heigth using a transom wedge as it is non-adjustable( at least not without unbolting it and moving it to another series of holes),so I would definately go with the jack plate as well.If you find 6" of setback to much you can get one with less setback or cut and redrill the 6" plate.Have done that a few times as well and it ain't that hard,but on the Vector I have always found 6" to be pretty much on the money.Actually works better on the Varmint due to it being a little more bow heavy,but good on the Vector as well.But regardless you want to maintain the ability to adjust the heigth.Hydro

[daytrader]

Hydro, u think 8" setback is to much? The 2" difference from 6 to 8 doesnt sound like much, but you have tried it so u should know. I can inverse the plate (its a bobs) and redrill it for about 3to 4" of setback, Ill try it and see what happens. thankx for the replys.