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cocacola
01-17-2007, 11:28 AM
If properly mounted in a water proof cover, are these basically the same? Just wondered if I needed a Marine specific system

Skatin
01-17-2007, 04:58 PM
It depends on where you store the boat and if the system will get wet. If you keep the boat in a dry place and are mounting everything where it won't get soaking wet I wouldn't worry about using marine specific equipment. I wouldn't buy speakers with a foam surround and paper cone either.

merctech5591
01-17-2007, 06:24 PM
in my last boat (17 action) i went thru 4 marine radio's even with a poly plainer marine cover.. i finally bought a cheap automotive radio (dual) and to date it is still working.. i will never buy a marine radio again.. at least in my boat.. on another note i would spend the extra money on marine speaker's. i have used many and the pioneer mr2010 are the best.. rick

M-Dog
01-18-2007, 10:24 PM
I just think on the water moisture is your worst enemy, if it is dry they work great. I had a Sony deck with a six pack CD changer in it and it worked great ( all truck stereo stuff, right down to the speakers ) This was all in a tunnel boat :cool: Hydrostream HST

hsbob
01-19-2007, 10:10 AM
get a unit with a water proof remote control. that way the radio can stay dry and you can change the setting. for marine use you reall need a system that has conformal coating on the boards and water proof button. they really dont exist. the 2007 pass pro marine catolog had several remote systems as a start.

cocacola
01-19-2007, 11:04 AM
Forgot to mention my boat has a dual battery system. While refurbing the boat, I found a 600W Koiller amp. It's functional, but just how much %^&$'in power do you need in a boat stereo? Stereo was shot, so I plan to hook up new stereo to it...not sure how many speakers at this time. Current system was pushing 7; four 5", two 6 x 9's and 1 CV sub woofer and most need replacing. Sounds like enough power to push the boat without the 2.5 Mercury.

Anyway, since I can isolate batterys or hook in parallel, can you switch this think while engine is running? I figure that would be a bad idea.



get a unit with a water proof remote control. that way the radio can stay dry and you can change the setting. for marine use you reall need a system that has conformal coating on the boards and water proof button. they really dont exist. the 2007 pass pro marine catolog had several remote systems as a start.


Yep... I agree and it is a priority for me (the remote). I thought about a wireless one and not wired one on the dash. Of course that can get lost...another issue. Since I doubt we will use CD player, I thought about mounting radio out of site and use remote, but unsure at this time. Probably will velcro it somewhere and put in my waterproof storage box when boat not in use. I like the idea of messing with stereo settings from driver seat since radio is on other side of boat.

Fast Fig
02-25-2007, 03:41 PM
There are many variables, exposure..........moisture....depending on the boat. Just cause you mount the unit inside does not guarranty there will not be moisture in that area of the boat, take for instance why do you think a boat gets mildew/mold while covered up for a while. Even those marine enclosures could work against you, overheating the unit locking in the moister. Unfortunately guy's it's a losing battle, we try our best to prolong the life of our investments in audio equipment, but quite frankly it's pure Luck, we are fighting a losing battle with ma nature and the elements. Good luck, and be creative.
Peace! FIG

Mastercraft241
02-27-2007, 01:27 PM
Also dont forget that car steros wont take abuse. When your hitting wakes, bouncing around your beating your system. Marine speakers are made for that; car speakers are not. Furthermore, you can never have to much protection so get a speaker box to cover it no-matter what you choose.

imq707s
02-27-2007, 01:34 PM
I put a set of the kicker Xplodes 6x9's in my Vegas, and they sounds great. They have the speaker material is a poly type of material...not paper like others. The guy at the store said that they have been putting a bunch of the Xplode speakers in boats, and have never had a problem with moisture affecting them. I would reccomend them.

ZonkaRacing
03-31-2007, 05:49 PM
I'm looking for a stereo for my boat so i've been talking to a lot of people lately. The guy at the store explained the difference between car/marine head units. The two are both made with the SAME components, the only difference is that marine stereos are powdercoated to make it waterproof. But that causes them to overheat more easily because the heat has nowhere to go. You also have more options if getting a car stereo, so as long as the stereo is in a dry place go with a car stereo. They should be fine.

Mastercraft241
03-31-2007, 06:50 PM
he failed to mention that a car sterio is not meant to take the abuse of the bumping and rattling. Not all car and marine stearos are made the same way. Speaker companies like kicker do that but not all. I spend 500 bucks and got 2 sets 400w speakers with a 1000w bass(boss) and a kenwood head unit. it was 550 shipped and sounds amazing. If you want more base, you could simply purchase a mono amp and sub for around 150-200 bucks. If your interested, pm me for more detail.

sho305
03-31-2007, 08:22 PM
I posted a place in the ebay and internet listings forum that has polk speakers on sale at a fair price, they say they are marine rated. I don't have any and never used any but might in a car. Another option is to get some cheap ebay and if they go bad who cares. The trading circuit liquidation (circuit city returns/demos, are tested) has been selling cheap dual 12" boxes for low as $4 high as 50...same box called magnum and shipping is around 17. Some come with an amp that works even. You have to wait for a cheap one though, but there are others too if you have the time to watch and don't need a super system.

IMHO I would use auto stuff and mount it carefully. You people that are on the ocean and shoreline with salt, well then maybe you have to go marine on some components. Could also get a removable deck or can, but that is a hassle too depending on your use. I see a lot of people just using ipods/etc and not having a deck...they don't skip either. I can see using the marine speakers if they have to be mounted right out there. I am used to larger boats though, say 24 and up I put stuff in. They don't get much spray or anything in them and you can put amps in the cuddy. I bought a remote for an alpine a few years ago and it was real cheap, even if not waterproof if it lasts a couple years and you save way more on the car deck its a good deal. (and can mount the deck dry for remote use)

I have no idea of what you can use for a setup, but just an example this is the box: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=140101583299&rd=1&rd=1 Heck you could spray it with waterproofing spray and if it lasts two years thats $15/yr. But it all depends on what you can fit, what quality you want, etc. These come on all the time, they must have hundreds of them.

1BadAction
03-31-2007, 08:41 PM
anything that you use in a boat will eventually turn to crap no matter what you do. especially in the salt.

I will add, the more simple the audio source, the longer it will last. CD players are fragile as anything, changers even more so... a simple portable XM or Sirius radio that plugs into your amp and speakers would most likely outlast anything.

1BadAction
04-01-2007, 12:38 AM
Yea I don't see why speakers couldnt be made to last indefinitely. carbon cone, rubber surround, sealed box, and they should be fine. of course thats using components or bi-axials that don't have a hard stalk for moisture to get behind. the real problem is the head units, there is no way to seal them off from the moisture without cutting off all cooling air. I keep looking at speakers and amp for my boat, but will most likely end up carrying a portable with me when I want tunes, for the lack of extra weight and complexity more than anything...

sho305
04-01-2007, 12:53 PM
Here is a good example, check this Alpine HU that just sold on ebay for 31.50 plus ship. I bet you could buy the remote and harness for roughly the same amount. Then if it goes bad in the boat you are not out much compared to new. Shipping on this to me is $8! so $40 total. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEBI%3AIT&viewitem=&item=140101581244&rd=1&rd=1

Here is an XM ready one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=140101286718&rd=1&rd=1

There are more on there, some had inputs for MP3 players, some are other brands.

Alpine cda9825 remote $20, harness 11.50, +ship http://www.pacparts.com/

Keep an eye on them, some might come with the harness you never know. Lately Sun and Mon seem like the cheapest days but I'm done shopping for now....need to pedal some stuff soon as I finish install. Just got a 2x12" sub box loaded and untested mono amp for about 25 shipped, no name but better than nothing...should be interesting to see what it does. I'll sell it if I don't like it. Like I said, you could spend that on beer in a weekend of boating.

Speakers must fail or you won't buy new:D but the better ones seem to hold out much longer in my experience.

1BadAction
04-01-2007, 01:44 PM
Sho, check out www.partsexpress.com you'll probably like some of the stuff they have. its basically an electronics wholesale house.

as far as amp/speakers. as soon as my new setup gets here, I'll post pics. 2-12" Blaupunkt velocitys and an earthquake 5k Watt amp. should be enough to injure passengers in my truck... if i want to. :D

inspectorlance
04-01-2007, 07:33 PM
I have went through many units over the years. The true difference is the circuit boards being plastic coated. If your on salt water this is a must, if your on fresh water just try to keep it try, and a Auto unit is just fine. . Pick a unit with a long delay so the bumps wont effect the cd as much. Ive had auto units mounted out in the open soaking wet. Water would run right into the face. As long as the unit was dry when you turned it on everthing was fine. Sold that boat to a friend , and its still working fine ( Pioneer )



Lance

sho305
04-01-2007, 08:07 PM
Parts express, yes they have some great deals on tweeters. I have used home tweeters in cars lots of times, I like soft domes. Just put the same caps on as the good ones and they sound the same. Even 8 ohms seem to work fine. Trying to figure out what to put in a powered sub I got now, it has a passive radiator in it. I put a junk 10 I had here in it and it works but makes lots of cone noise when I crank it. It is an old trashed cheap sub so likely the sub. Mounting depth is an issue also, and no help from MTX on what it is. Fat surround, stiff feeling suspension, big magnet, 4 ohm....is near impossible to find subs by specs. Can't be much over 4" top mount depth either.

Are Blaupunkt subs good? I never cared for the speakers in the old days and have not seen any since, never used their subs. Mostly Rockford Fosgate, Infinity, MTX, whatever. I see some of the MTX like the 4500 are free air. But I never got into the current huge power stuff either.

merccoop
04-01-2007, 08:42 PM
I would like to recommend elemental brand subs. www.edesignaudio.com (http://www.edesignaudio.com) I still have a 5 year old one that I have been punishing quite hard (recommended watt rating at 400w and have my 600w pushin her hard). If you are skeptical, they have a few links to some credited audio magazines that rate them pretty highly. They are top notch quality and when compared to equal quality subs, are way cheaper. They also offer affordable amps and component speakers. The owner is from my hometown and I saw his company go from running in his basement to what it is today. His subs are just simply amazing though. crystal clear and as loud as you want them to be. Plus they have some videos of the amazing excursion of their top dogs. They also have amazing customer service almost 24/7 online. Hope this helps some people get an amazing system!

merccoop
04-02-2007, 06:00 AM
Ive had auto units mounted out in the open soaking wet. Water would run right into the face. As long as the unit was dry when you turned it on everthing was fine. Sold that boat to a friend , and its still working fine ( Pioneer )

Lance

I know exactly what you mean! Back in highschool, my best friends fishing boat had an old cd player in it that we used the radio on. that thing had been sitting on the floor of the boat while the boat had water almost up to the gunwale and still worked after we let it dry out. the thing was never covered, just never got wet while in use i guess....

1BadAction
04-02-2007, 02:52 PM
Are Blaupunkt subs good? I never cared for the speakers in the old days and have not seen any since, never used their subs. Mostly Rockford Fosgate, Infinity, MTX, whatever. I see some of the MTX like the 4500 are free air. But I never got into the current huge power stuff either.

blaus will blow just about anything away, but their lower- price stuff is junk, and thats about the only thing you can find easily in america. the ones I'm talking about are their high SPL subs, they also make ones for SQ that are priced similarly.

sho305
04-09-2007, 02:20 PM
Capacitors, check this out if you have time to read: http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=17970

And here I just bought one, $15 for a 1f.

I bought a pyramid to fit this passive radiator box but not here yet. I got the dual 12" box and tested it on the soundstream amp, it pounds nice on the bench. Like the sealed boxs it is, it is a little tight. The amp needs repair, but it is visonic with a different name. $130 for both at circuit city new, I paid under 30 tmd. I just need to put a gain control in the mono amp. Box looks like new. Thing is not light even though it is not that big, but I am sure it would pound in a boat.

I found pyle 10" marine subs for $35 but didn't check shipping, it was not on an auction.

Six Four
04-09-2007, 03:05 PM
I have installed automotive radios in lots of Boats and I have also ran them, still do today, mostly pioneer though.. I just recently got a Job at a Boating Center and In all the boast they mostly use Sony explode or JVC. I can tell you first hand that pioneer cd player head units are the best on the market as far as playing while riding, they play in the roughest weaters and can play cd/s that are scratched that most other units want even play.. But all this is just my opinion ....

M-Dog
04-09-2007, 03:16 PM
blaus will blow just about anything away, but their lower- price stuff is junk, and thats about the only thing you can find easily in america. the ones I'm talking about are their high SPL subs, they also make ones for SQ that are priced similarly.

KH here and I will take JBL any day, what's up brah.............:D

1BadAction
04-09-2007, 03:20 PM
KH here and I will take JBL any day, what's up brah.............:D

everyone knows Blau is (.)(.)s and JBL is for little girls :D I see you are up to your old tricks :eek: lol

sho305
04-09-2007, 03:23 PM
I have a nice older Alpine HU, I burned a CD and it takes forever to find some of the songs on it. It was just a direct copy too. Think later I'll get a better one. Now they have x-overs in the HU, mp3 player jacks, will play mp3 CDs, I could use that stuff. Plus they have higher pre out voltage. I found some good deals on refurbs and leftovers but have to get my subs in first.

I always figured it would rule to put mp3s on a DVD....but with a boat you would still have the problems reading it, on the other hand if they had more memory it might work well. Oh yeah, I bet you can't burn songs to a dvd anyway due to our worthless protectionist government....or can you? Seems like you could mp3s anyway. I mean you can buy a 1gig usb keychain drive for nothing now, that would hold a lot for skip protection in a HU. With a DVD/CD you don't care if it gets damaged, forgotten, lost, whatever; just burn another.

sho305
04-09-2007, 03:50 PM
I'm wacked, I still like pyramids:eek:. I don't run that much power though, and all subs sound near the same its just power capacity (aside from specific tuning needs). I have some RFs though, and infinity in my car...or will have soon as it stops snowing here and I feel like working on the car outside. Right now there is a lovely digital audio from audiobahn in the car. The stereo sites sure hate audiobahn, I should ask them about pyramid/lanzar/legacy LOL:D. I've done plenty of SQ systems with them and spent more on HU/x-over/high speakers where you really need the money for SQ. But if you are going to hammer, you need the equipment no doubt.

I ran the snot out of some old blaupunkt amps, they worked so nice and everyone hated them. 2x60rms and I could make more bass than plenty of larger amps at the time. I had a HU of theirs too, but never the speakers. HU was so-so but not the best model either.

1BadAction
04-09-2007, 03:53 PM
blau amps are notorious for being way more powerful than they are rated. a 2000watt RMS earthquake is about on par with a blaupunkt thats rated at 1200... their duty cycle is also heavier than pretty much any other mainstream amp, thermal throttle and cooling is excellent.

sho305
04-09-2007, 09:00 PM
This was old, a bpa260. Still have two but one is broken. It says 60w rms x 2, 80w max, and then max current draw 24 amps:). I ran it at 2 ohms (does not say anything about 2 ohms on it) on four 10s and it hammered good. Other amps would lose control of the subs yet not be quite as loud...running free air you need control. The only other thing I could think is it has better dampening and/or less headroom/or a subsonic filter. It worked nice on ported boxes I used too, but on the high side it had less bass than some amps...or more treble maybe. It has two giant chips on the heatsinks and that is it, one each side for the amp section about 2+" long. I used to know what type amp that was but forget.

There is actually one on ebay, but thats too much as I bet it is an 80s amp. No x-over or bridging, all you get is a gain screw. One went for $30 a while back and I thought about bidding but I don't really need one now. Just got 2 amps that do 300rms bridged for 10 more. There is also a 4 channel 30rms(?) x 4 that looks near exactly the same. People run more power these days but the new amps I have don't seem to be that much different, just more gizmos. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/blaupunkt-houston-am-fm-cassette-and-120-power-amp_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38639QQihZ011QQitemZ320101388128QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD4V

M-Dog
04-10-2007, 10:38 AM
blau amps are notorious for being way more powerful than they are rated. a 2000watt RMS earthquake is about on par with a blaupunkt thats rated at 1200... their duty cycle is also heavier than pretty much any other mainstream amp, thermal throttle and cooling is excellent.

I have been running a Clarion 1500 rms mono amp and it kicks arse, this is what I am waiting on right now :eek: :eek:

PYLE GEAR PLA4300D 4000 WATT HIGE POWER MONO BLOCK 1 CHANNEL HIGH POWER SUPER AMPLIFIER

Digitize your music quotient with the Pyle PLA4300D Digital Power Amplifier
The Pyle PLA4300D Mono Block Digital Power Amplifier has a Glass Epoxy PCB and produces a maximum of 4000 Watts RMS single channel sound output. The Pulse-Width-Modulation (PWM) System filters the carrier wave signal to achieve a high-quality audio signal that is delivered to the speakers for crystal clear sound output. The Remote Bass Boost allows manually adjusting the bass depth, as required to get the perfect level of thumping bass. The Thermal Overload and Short Circuit Protection prolong the life of the amplifier and the speaker set by optimally regulating the voltage to internal electronic circuits.
A signal-to-noise ratio of 90 dB and a Total Harmonic Distortion of less than 0.3% produce rich sound. The Phase Control varies between 0-180 degrees for producing a double amplified carrier signal for producing pumped up sound including bass and treble, without overstressing the components. Variable Subsonic Filter processes sounds between frequencies of 15 Hz to 40 Hz at a maximum of 24dB. The amplifier has Gold Plated RCA Input Connectors for minimizing any metal corrosion and hence any quality losses in the carrier signal. Moreover, the PLA4300D offers excellent thermal and overload protection. All this high-quality, complex circuitry comes housed in a box that measures 2.32" x 11.06" x 15"

M-Dog
04-10-2007, 11:24 AM
It looks like this :eek: :cool:

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=125843&stc=1&d=1176222246

sho305
04-10-2007, 12:09 PM
I should get a mono class D just for the power use, that one looks nice. Never used a pyle amp myself. I just hooked up this soundstream though and it pounds harder than the Dual I got. Plus it has a boost thing that works nice at 45hz. I have it on a cheap twin 12 premade sealed box (that can't get under 45 anyway) and it shakes the house. I think the dual needs more line power, I had the gain maxed and was not enough. Running on an old HU though, on a rv battery in the house. Both are rated at 300rms x 1 bridged. This dual is a huge heavy thing too, all cast aluminum and looks like a RF amp. I might dump it as I am lacking room in the car, just use the little sansui ppi on highs. It thumps on turnoff but might not be bad on highs.

What kind of subs are you guys running size/how many, where are they in the vehicle? Man I don't think I will max this 300w amp when I get it setup right...or do you guys do that outside the car mostly? I could only take a song or two wot on the 120w blaupunkt and that was enough. I find most of the trunk boxes I can run harder though, with free air the sub is in the same air space as you....you get hit harder. Usually when my hair is moving around that is hard enough. Course I'm not a kid anymore so I don't mess with people like I used to:).

M-Dog
04-10-2007, 12:23 PM
I should get a mono class D just for the power use, that one looks nice. Never used a pyle amp myself. I just hooked up this soundstream though and it pounds harder than the Dual I got. Plus it has a boost thing that works nice at 45hz. I have it on a cheap twin 12 premade sealed box (that can't get under 45 anyway) and it shakes the house. I think the dual needs more line power, I had the gain maxed and was not enough. Running on an old HU though, on a rv battery in the house. Both are rated at 300rms x 1 bridged. This dual is a huge heavy thing too, all cast aluminum and looks like a RF amp. I might dump it as I am lacking room in the car, just use the little sansui ppi on highs. It thumps on turnoff but might not be bad on highs.

What kind of subs are you guys running size/how many, where are they in the vehicle? Man I don't think I will max this 300w amp when I get it setup right...or do you guys do that outside the car mostly? I could only take a song or two wot on the 120w blaupunkt and that was enough. I find most of the trunk boxes I can run harder though, with free air the sub is in the same air space as you....you get hit harder. Usually when my hair is moving around that is hard enough. Course I'm not a kid anymore so I don't mess with people like I used to:).

I have 2 12" JBL Power Series and 2 10 JBL's in the backseat of an extended cab lowrider :cool: Alpine hu and a clarion equilzer for 2 6x9 8 way 2700 watts,2 polk audio db650's and 4 300 watt tweeters:eek: It is loud alright:cool:

sho305
04-10-2007, 01:25 PM
Wow, I believe you. I'm trying to fix an old linear power EQ right now, it has a line driver in it too. That should help it out if I can find a place to fit it in my little car.

M-Dog
04-23-2007, 11:21 AM
Wow, I believe you. I'm trying to fix an old linear power EQ right now, it has a line driver in it too. That should help it out if I can find a place to fit it in my little car.

I have a 1200 watt Sony amp ( 1 year old ) and an old equalizer ( still works ) you can have, give me your address :cool:

1BadAction
04-23-2007, 11:27 AM
yo KH- check out what im gonna put the Blaus into http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129724

M-Dog
04-23-2007, 11:54 AM
yo KH- check out what im gonna put the Blaus into http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129724

That is tit's brah, still have my flammer :cool:

sho305
04-23-2007, 01:00 PM
yo KH- check out what im gonna put the Blaus into http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129724

I saw that, it will be a serious thunderwagon in more ways that one, nice ride! I don't want to post a pic of my little old car, but it looks respectable at least. I had the back seat out last night and measured for my sub baffle. They will pump into the foam of the seat...should be a little aperiodic action going on there.

M-Dog I PM'ed you. I've tried to stay away from EQs in the past and swapped speakers/amps until I got a sound I liked. But with this car and by not carving it up to put whatever in it...I think I may have to use one.

M-Dog
04-23-2007, 01:40 PM
I saw that, it will be a serious thunderwagon in more ways that one, nice ride! I don't want to post a pic of my little old car, but it looks respectable at least. I had the back seat out last night and measured for my sub baffle. They will pump into the foam of the seat...should be a little aperiodic action going on there.

M-Dog I PM'ed you. I've tried to stay away from EQs in the past and swapped speakers/amps until I got a sound I liked. But with this car and by not carving it up to put whatever in it...I think I may have to use one.

I only have 2 jacks out the back of my HU and the equalizer just helps with the mids and lows, wires right in and BAM! :cool:

sho305
04-23-2007, 02:51 PM
M-Dog, PM'ed it to you thanks. I have a hole in my midbass just above the subs. I think I will hog 6x9 in the rear doors but I bet I still don't get enough. High is not bad now, but I also might put a set of tweeters up by the dash since my x-overs have taps for a second set....but that will make the midbass problem worse if anything so I have to fix that.

I got my 1f cap here now for what good it does, but can't hurt. I'll put a battery or jumper in the back if I need it. I was wondering if I should get another 12" so I had three, can't have too many with IB. But then I can't put the amps between them.:( Maybe if I angled them I might, I better check.

M-Dog
04-24-2007, 09:00 PM
M-Dog, PM'ed it to you thanks. I have a hole in my midbass just above the subs. I think I will hog 6x9 in the rear doors but I bet I still don't get enough. High is not bad now, but I also might put a set of tweeters up by the dash since my x-overs have taps for a second set....but that will make the midbass problem worse if anything so I have to fix that.

I got my 1f cap here now for what good it does, but can't hurt. I'll put a battery or jumper in the back if I need it. I was wondering if I should get another 12" so I had three, can't have too many with IB. But then I can't put the amps between them.:( Maybe if I angled them I might, I better check.

I have 2 farad caps, 1 battery cap.......I don't think they do shiat, get an extra battery and a kick arse alternator. The new one I am getting is 320 amp jobby..guaranteed to never cut the amp out cranked up and for 520 USD is pretty good! :cool: :cool:

1BadAction
04-24-2007, 10:05 PM
Sho, I got to playing with the SS today... VERY good front biased "sound stage" in this setup. it has mids and highs in the dash, mids, highs, and lows in the front door pointing upward, and low/mids in the rear. I think I will probably do a JL "cleansweep" under the dashboard to an amp for mids/highs, new components, and amp for the low end. right now its all bose components and amp.

sho305
04-25-2007, 11:35 AM
Problem with the caps is they only 'smooth out' the electrical flow. If you don't have anything to recharge them with because you are overloading your batteries/alternator..then they don't work at all. And if the battery is at 12v and alt at 14v, then the cap ony covers 2v drop...if alt can't bring it back to 14 in so many milliseconds then cap does no good. I got $15 into a 1f so I hope it keeps the lights from getting too funny, but like I said at my low wattage it should not be an issue....yes I think batteries and alt are only way to go. If you want max power at 14v then alternator is only way. I will put a jumper battery in back, that should do for this.

The SS, jeez they put a lot of stuff in there! I need some tweeters in my mirror covers I think. Trying to figure out if I should paint the ones I have or get some tiny ones. Have some kenwoods that sound pretty good, just don't want to see them but the way the door panels are the tweeters are by my leg and too low. That sounds like a wicked front stage in the SS there, are they a pita to fit replacements in? Some have those pods I've seen and must have to be certain size to fit right?

I scored another sub on ebay for $12 if its any good. I've got some stuff they said is bad and it worked fine, some was toast. If its good or fixable I will have three 12" to put in. You sure can't get a deal on the bigger amps. For a while I tried to get a larger alpine about 50x2 or 4 and could not get a good price. I did get a mrv1000 for a friend of mine for 100, I hope it will run subs good for him. The next week one went for 200 without the scratch in the corner.

M-Dog
04-25-2007, 08:14 PM
Problem with the caps is they only 'smooth out' the electrical flow. If you don't have anything to recharge them with because you are overloading your batteries/alternator..then they don't work at all. And if the battery is at 12v and alt at 14v, then the cap ony covers 2v drop...if alt can't bring it back to 14 in so many milliseconds then cap does no good. I got $15 into a 1f so I hope it keeps the lights from getting too funny, but like I said at my low wattage it should not be an issue....yes I think batteries and alt are only way to go. If you want max power at 14v then alternator is only way. I will put a jumper battery in back, that should do for this.

The SS, jeez they put a lot of stuff in there! I need some tweeters in my mirror covers I think. Trying to figure out if I should paint the ones I have or get some tiny ones. Have some kenwoods that sound pretty good, just don't want to see them but the way the door panels are the tweeters are by my leg and too low. That sounds like a wicked front stage in the SS there, are they a pita to fit replacements in? Some have those pods I've seen and must have to be certain size to fit right?

I scored another sub on ebay for $12 if its any good. I've got some stuff they said is bad and it worked fine, some was toast. If its good or fixable I will have three 12" to put in. You sure can't get a deal on the bigger amps. For a while I tried to get a larger alpine about 50x2 or 4 and could not get a good price. I did get a mrv1000 for a friend of mine for 100, I hope it will run subs good for him. The next week one went for 200 without the scratch in the corner.

I buy from these guys, fast shipping and at a good price :cool:

http://stores.ebay.com/BIGBUYCITY-INTERNATIONAL-WHOLESALER

sho305
04-25-2007, 09:16 PM
Well, didn't take me long to find stuff I want to buy there...:rolleyes:...:). Like that alpine HU, but it will have to wait. How about that pyle 6ch amp? I like the looks of that if I were shopping but don't know a thing about them.

M-Dog
04-28-2007, 11:20 PM
Well, didn't take me long to find stuff I want to buy there...:rolleyes:...:). Like that alpine HU, but it will have to wait. How about that pyle 6ch amp? I like the looks of that if I were shopping but don't know a thing about them.

The 4000 watt PYLE MONO works really well in my Bronco, those things make perfect sound box's.....I have a 4 channel 2700 watt Pyramid from them that I don't like, you need 4 outputs out of your HU to make it work :(

I like kick arse Clarion amps..1500 watts rms is the shiat!

sho305
04-28-2007, 11:34 PM
I got the third 12" sub and it seems to work fine, not sure how to wire it but I will figure it out. I don't think I can fit 4 of them, I better check. More is better with IB. Going to try to make a baffle tomorrow.
4 outputs? You can't select input on the amp?