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View Full Version : Need some swim step refinishing advise



Propster
01-03-2007, 01:28 AM
I tried teak oil on the swim step, lasted about two runs. I want to use a varnish or verathane on it. Any recommendations? I don't mind doing it each season, I just don't want to do it every two weeks.

Also, should I just finish the just the top or both sides? Thinking that sealing the bottom might cause the varnish to blister on the top.

The Big Al
01-03-2007, 01:40 AM
How will urethane work?

Just seal it in that.

Al

Fish
01-03-2007, 05:46 PM
how did you prep it the first time you oiled it?

Techno
01-03-2007, 05:59 PM
If its teak then you have to take a couple more steps. Its oily so you have to remove the oil before any kind of sealer. If its not then oil isn't the best method here.

The golden rule of wood is whatever you do to one side, do to the other. It isn't about the finish, it won't matter. Its the wood. It absorbs moisture and expands. Do it to one side and it warps. Both sides, then both sides expand and contract at the same rate.
BTW the most important side is the end grain.

West system has a sun proof, or at least sun resistant clear epoxy. This could be an option.
Varnish is a once a year, every year thing. You remove it then recoat.
The problem with clears is the UV rays either breaks down the clear or breaks down the wood underneath and the clear comes off. This is a many years thing though.

87vantage
04-13-2008, 01:12 PM
We use the west system products on our teak steps, which are highly traveled. Sand them down to how you want them to look with 120 to 150 grit paper. Do a coat of the west systems . let dry. lightly scuff and recoat, we use a light sprinkling of glass beads for a non slip finish which also helps with durability.Definitely do your research with the product and use the UV additive if its available. We get two years out of a set of steps on a sportfishing boat. Very satisfying. Good Luck

Hottrucks
04-13-2008, 03:28 PM
I scrub the crap out of my steps with castrol super clean or and Good degreaser this removes any old oil and cleans the wood...then I let it dry as long as i can...days...sand it lightly then apply a fresh coat of teak oil let it soak in then apply another..be sure to get the end well...seeya next year....

williamsdetailing
05-03-2008, 08:47 PM
ive had great success with sikkens 2 step cetol products. Its kind of expensive, but it looks amazing and last a while. You can find it at west marine. but you do need to strip the oil off of it before you use any kind of sealer

delawarerick
05-04-2008, 07:25 AM
Sikkens will last the longest but it also has a tendency to yellow the teak. Because of the oil in teak varnish does not last long and oil probrably looks the best but needs to done the most. Alot of people jumped on starboard and changed alot of their teak when it first came out. Teak to look good is alot of work and there are other products out there. If you have a teak furniture store I know there are new products being used. Rick

williamsdetailing
05-04-2008, 07:35 AM
My father used sikkens on his boat and it made the wood look a little yellow, but i figured because he didnt prep it correctly. I have used it on probably 5 other boats including my personal boat and the finish looked really great. The color is lighter then most oils but it still looks like natural teak. I personally like the look of raw teak but it is extremely difficult to keep raw wood clean.

Hottrucks
05-04-2008, 07:59 AM
another thought is if your building something is CAMBERA wood looks like teak much cheaper and lasts as long or longer...I have dome some swim platforms on family bayliners with great success

williamsdetailing
05-04-2008, 09:05 AM
good tips, i have scrubbed wood with degreaser and it does work but you get quite a workout doing it. there are a few products on the market that are acidic and only require a light scrubbing. it sure cuts the time by 75% and the end result is usually flawless with no sanding. If possible go to any marine shop that has an account with glen-mar or land and sea or any supplier like those and they will be able to get the products a whole lot cheaper then any retail store. I know i can buy top of the line teak oil in the quart size for $11, so its worth becoming friends with your mechanics.

williamsdetailing
05-04-2008, 09:07 AM
i just realized this thread is over a year old, but it gives pointers to people looking at doing wood work

williamsdetailing
05-07-2008, 09:34 PM
Here is a before and after shot of teak. The next time i do teak, i will take shots of the wood in its blond state before i oil it. Dont mind the foot in the picture
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a157/never2fast/2-13-08158.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a157/never2fast/5-1-08014.jpg