View Full Version : OMC brg carrier mods.
LaveyT
04-19-2002, 06:50 PM
OMC Dudes, I plan to "pin" my carrier with four flathead screws as observed in Jasper.I assume the holes and 82 degree
C-Bores in the case are clearance holes for the screws.Then the brg carrier its self is tapped for the screw.On the inside of the carrier is a fabricated conical washer of sorts.I assume the holes
in these washers are clearance holes also.A nylock nut holds the whole thing together.
My questions are: 1/4 or 5/16 screws,witch are you guys using?
I am planning on making my "washers" out of aluminum.I noticed
they were steel on the ones I saw.Aluminum is much easier to machine,and I am planning to use a slightly different radius on
the washers than what the brg carrier is.I want the washers to deform slightly and transfer the stress outwards,sort of like valve
cover tabs.Do you think this will be strong enough?
Thanx, Dave
racer
04-19-2002, 08:44 PM
quarter inch and the rest you mentioned is fine
LaserLTV
04-19-2002, 09:26 PM
Could you describe the whole process? I was reading through it, but couldn't picture it, or do you have any pictures of a pinned case to use a refrence?
LaveyT
04-19-2002, 09:47 PM
this is common with the Big Dawgs of OMC but its suprising how many pepole dont know about this Mod untill ther case blows up
or the carrier wallows the housing out.I dont have any pics yet
but if all goes as planned I will make some Xtra parts (washers).
Im going to make a drill fixture for the four holes that will orient
off the rear of the bullet and the vertical portion will square it up.
Its kind of overkill but its not a big deal workin in a shop.This way
anyone can do it without the guess work.Just lock it down with a couple set screws and get the drill out.I thought about putting a depth stop on a c-bore also and really making it idiot proof! then I thought about making a "Two stage bushing" so after you drill the holes you could remove the tap drill bushing and then the tap would be guided strait thru its own bushing.I think way too much.When I get it set up all the OMC brothers can "pin" the carriers with ease.
:rolleyes:
LaserLTV
04-19-2002, 09:56 PM
That sounds great. I noticed when I had to reseal my lower that the carrier had what appeared to be chatter marks on the inside of the bullet and the outside of the carrier support, is this the beginning of the wallowing out and I now wonder if that had anything to do with why I had to reseal it. It was leaking around the carrier. I caught it in time we noticed it the weekend before the piston let go.:(
LaveyT
04-20-2002, 06:59 AM
That is the first sign of big trouble.I will make extra washers for
you (unless you work in a machine shop).Once the damage has begun you must also put shim stock around the carrier to take out the play or Im told the "pinning" wont hold it.i also got to see this first hand at Jasper:p
LaserLTV
04-20-2002, 06:53 PM
Thank you. Hopefully I can catch it before I ahve a major problem. I looked at it today and it looks like the carrier still fits snuggly in the case. I also found a few pieces of the pistom that let go behind the anode on the carrier. SHould I take the carrier out and mic the outside of the carrier and the inside of the case? Or since it still appears to be tight should I go ahead and just pin the carrier?:rolleyes: Also, when you drill the holes through the case and into the carrier where do you drill them, it looks like I need to drill them about halfway between the supports for the carrier. And as near as I can tell you you drill and countersink the holes in the case, drill and tap the holes in the carrier and then use the washers you are making on the the inside of the carrier and then the lock nuts. Is this correct? What affect will the flat head screws have on the water passing over the bullet?
LaveyT
04-20-2002, 07:32 PM
I just got an E-mail from the Chuckster.On his lower he says the carrier is not tapped just a clearance hole.The nut holds it all
together.I thought the nut was just a jam nut,wrong.Also I talked to Speedie Racer this morning and he said he has seen some
with no conical washer,just a nut hittin against the inside of the carrier,This I wouldnt do unless I had no washers,He wants a
couple sets:)
If you cant move the carrier around in the case you are probably ok.If you have any feeler gages I would try them.If you can fit shim stock around the carrier I would put it in.I guess
Acie Stringfield and MR. Martini have found out the hard way without the shim stock on a wallered (technical term) lower
the "pinning" will not hold.Also,you hole locations sound correct
midway between the webs.
How about a picture Chuck? See Ya, Dave
Slow-Poke
07-14-2004, 04:57 PM
After tearing up my V8 bearing carrier for the second time, I thought since no one has posted any pics of pinning an OMC carrier I would share some pics on how I solved my problem. BTW a surfacing prop like an SRX or a Merc Chopper will eventually spin your carrier no matter how often you check the carrier bolts. These old dinosaur V8's need more than two little bolts holding the carrier in place. They still make a lot of torque and a like to run high out of the water.
In the pics, you can see I used 4 stainless steel allen set screws 1/4x20 x 3/4" and tapped the case .75" from the case edge. After tapping, I used "red" threadlock and screwed them in until flush with the case. Hope this helps some who are thinking about pinning their carriers too.
<img src="http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v350/unknowner1/pinned.jpg">
<img src="http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v350/unknowner1/lower_unit.jpg">
oldschoolltv
07-15-2004, 07:33 AM
If the case is wallowed can j&b weld or marine tex work to take up some of the slack rather than shimming it? thanks Matt
also should you use stainless bolts or are they too soft?
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