what to do to a 225 evinrude ocean pro.

[Reaction19]

my brother in law just purchased a 20' seacraft with a 225 evinrude. what can we do to get some more poewr out of it and still be reliable. motor is a 93 225 carbed.

[jerry]

Unbolt It, Kick It In The Water And Buy A Merc ! Lol

[Reaction19]

thats ok then if i do that i cant go out at all......

[dynobo]

You can do a search on this forum and probably spend all day reading the what to and what not to do's. The 225's were about 240 in stock trim so they are pretty stout. If it were mine and I was looking for reliability, I would leave her as is. If she is running good then leave her be. If you decide to modify it then be prepared for a very lengthy LEARNING curve.:eek:

[Reaction19]

we're having problems with it, and can't seem to narrow it down. first i thought it was nthe carbs now im leaning towards the electrical. im stuck. she runs strong but surges in the upper rpm range. at idle she stalls when put in gear i thought it was the neutral switch on the engine so i unplugged it and it didnt get any better. it cuts out all the time when idling. sneezez some times not always. what would you do to try to fix it.... also whats a safe rpm to turn this thing.

[BUIZILLA]

find the idle mixture screws, it takes an allen wrench, seat each screw IN gently, and back each screw out 5 1/2 turns for starters, set the idle timing to 2*-3* ATDC idling in the water, set WOT timing to 20*

see what happens with that.

JH

[lokinutz]

I think I would start by making sure the carbs were sync'd correctly, install new plugs, and adjust idle timing to run at 550-600 rpm in gear after fully warmed up. Check and clean ALL!!!! grounds and electrical connections, while making sure battery is fully charged to begin with. If the batt's old or questionable, save yourself the headache and replace it. Remove vro and premix with good oil (personally recommend pennzoil full synthetic) at 40:1 or 50:1 if completely stock. WOT timing at NO MORE than 18* (would recommend 17*) with highest octane pump unleaded available (91-93). Then...
Read as much as possible on this forum using the search function before you do any modifications. Don't remove air box or do anything else (yet), don't pass go and don't collect 200 big ones. There's a lot to learn about these motors so you don't burn it up your first time changing things.
Search posts by...
Racer (the man who knows everything you could ever know about OMCs)
Instigator
Ben Keith
RRRevinrude
Laker
These guys know how to make the stock stuff work good. There are other guys on here (including those above) that have a very good knowledge of aftermarket hi-po stuff. Good luck.
Damn it!! I just tripped getting off my soap box.

[dynobo]

The 93' doesn't have the idle screws. It should still have the air bleed orifice. Check for air leaks in the fuel system and around the carbs and manifolds. Remove your carbs and rebuild them and make sure the float height is correct. The main jets should be a 62D if memory serves me correctly. Verify timing is 16-18*'s MAX. Unless you want to start your own collection of blown pistons I wouldn't ever run above 18 degrees. Usually for me especially in a heavier boat 16 degrees works well. Prop your boat to run in the 5600-6000 WOT range. Your problem still could be ignition related either the stator breaking down at high rpm or the pack missing a fire hear and there. A good timing light should be able to help you find the problem.

[Instigator]

The 93' doesn't have the idle screws. It should still have the air bleed orifice. Check for air leaks in the fuel system and around the carbs and manifolds. Remove your carbs and rebuild them and make sure the float height is correct. The main jets should be a 62D if memory serves me correctly. Verify timing is 16-18*'s MAX. Unless you want to start your own collection of blown pistons I wouldn't ever run above 18 degrees. Usually for me especially in a heavier boat 16 degrees works well. Prop your boat to run in the 5600-6000 WOT range. Your problem still could be ignition related either the stator breaking down at high rpm or the pack missing a fire hear and there. A good timing light should be able to help you find the problem.
Start with rebuilding the carbs if you don't know history of motor, i.e. how long it's been sitting.
Next thing is to sync carbs as I think someone else already said.
I had twins on my old Sonic and they drove me nuts when I started messing with them. Especially at idle.
The idle circuit on these carbs requires butterflies to be closed completely to function properly.
If they are cracked at all, they'll be drawing through the mid range circuit which makes motor run lean and sneeze.
There are links between middle and bottom carbs that connect butterfly shafts together.
If they're out of sync, this can allow just one or more carbs to do as described above.
To get good idle quality it is mandatory that all linkages are set correctly.
If that's off it will show as other problems.
99% of my idle problems, especially stalling in gear has been related to butterfly sync.
Surging at idle is something different unless a jet is clogged although I had one motor on my Soinc that would open all butterflies and then at speed one would vibrate closed!
At rest they worked perfect:confused: Try finding that one:p
Gary

[Jon.Bucy]

You have a potentially good, strong reliable motor with seemingly minor problems. Simply unbolting it and replacing it with a new Merc is fine if you're made of money:rolleyes: . I have nothing against Merc, I like them just fine, but when you get that Evinrude up and running, a new Merc would not run any faster/better.
All the above suggestions are excellent, but the first thing you should do is check the compression. If the compression is erratic or irregular, none of these suggestions matter.
Should be approx 120 psi plus or minus 10% difference. Then check wiring and connections. Include control box electrical and key switch. A lot of people forget that this part of the motor too and spend a fortune replacing electrical components. And the cause of these problems turn out to be a $30 key switch or equivalent.
Next, carburator rebuild IMPORTANT: not just clean, full rebuild and inspection by a certified and competent technician.
At the time the carbs are off, this would be a good time to inspect the reeds.
Next, make sure all throttle-body valve are properly seated during idle stage, in and out of gear. Then synchronize the throttle linkages. Install a new set of plugs: I believe they are Champion QL77JC4 (recommended).
Set your idle timing and wide open throttle timing, give it a good service then take it for a run and see what you get!:cool: Good luckhttp://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

[dynobo]

Look for the 10% difference in compression but, don't be surprised if your readings are in the 90-95 psi range. Most all the early motors were below 100psi unless someone has plugged the idle reliefs.

[RRRevinrude]

SYNCH and LINK.....very critical....and i agree with dynobob-compression will only be about 90-95 if its stock......timing 16-18 btdc.....check fuel lines,squeeze ball,connections and see if there is a anti-syphon valve at the tank-it will look like a silver barbed fitting at the outlet..it has a ball and spring in it ............................greg